Breaking Beauty Podcast Summary

Episode Title: Charlotte Palermino Returns! Hot Takes on P50’s Reformulation, K-Beauty SPF Scarcity and Do We Need Beef Tallow in Our Moisturizer?
Release Date: May 28, 2025
Hosts: Jill Dunn and Carlene Higgins
Guest: Charlotte Palermino, Co-Founder and Chief Brand Officer of D.O. (DI EUX)

Introduction and Guest Profile (00:35 - 07:59)

The episode kicks off with Jill Dunn and Carlene Higgins welcoming Charlotte Palermino, the co-founder and Chief Brand Officer of D.O. (DI EUX), a skincare brand known for its transparent pricing and cult-favorite products like the Instant Angel Moisturizer. Charlotte, recognized for her candid discussions on skincare via platforms like Skin Talk, brings her expertise to dissect current beauty trends and industry shifts.

SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic Patent Expiration and Dupes (02:35 - 04:34)

A significant portion of the discussion centers on SkinCeuticals' CE Ferulic serum, once the gold standard in vitamin C formulations. Charlotte reveals that the patent for CE Ferulic has expired, paving the way for more affordable dupes to flood the market:

Charlotte Palermino (03:21): "I think it's a very interesting time to put CE Ferulic on your package. Whether or not you are testing it against their version or even using the same type of vitamin C, you can do whatever you want now."

Carlene expresses surprise at the patent expiration, highlighting the limited duration of such protections:

Carlene Higgins (03:22): "What I don't understand is how did this happen? Like, how did they lose the patent? Can't they keep renewing it?"

D.O. Skincare Brand Updates and New Product Launches (04:34 - 07:59)

Charlotte delves into D.O.'s growth, noting their recent expansion into Sephora and the introduction of their new cleansing oil, "Ethereum Ethereal," praised for its trendy packaging and efficient formula:

Charlotte Palermino (06:25): "And they just popped off so much more recently because they've gone into Sephora officially. It's a lot more widely available now and they're just like radically transparent with their prices."

The hosts commend D.O. for their transparency and innovative product launches, setting a high standard in the skincare industry.

Tinted Skincare vs. Makeup: A Heated Debate (11:08 - 14:50)

Jill and Charlotte critique the trend of tinted skincare products, arguing that such innovations are not genuinely novel but rather repackaged versions of existing products. Jill emphasizes the historical roots of tinted serums:

Jill Dunn (11:11): "Erno Laszlo created tinted serum essentially to…it was 80% skincare, 20% makeup."

They express frustration over labeling these products as "innovative," suggesting that the industry is running out of original ideas. The conversation also touches on the overuse of ingredients like niacinamide in makeup products, leading to unnecessary complexity and potential skin irritation.

Biologique Recherche's P50 Reformulation and Phenol Ban (14:50 - 19:56)

The hosts discuss the reformulation of Biologique Recherche’s iconic P50 serum following the FDA’s prohibition of phenol in skincare. Jill reminisces about the original formulation's potency:

Jill Dunn (15:02): "Your face becomes a melted candle…creating such a deep chemical burn…they had to take that out and they completely reformulated it."

They analyze the new ingredients introduced, such as gluconolactone and various acids, assessing the product's efficacy post-reformulation. Despite reservations, Jill remains optimistic about the updated P50 formula’s potential.

K-Beauty SPF Scarcity and FDA Regulations (19:56 - 24:43)

A critical segment addresses the FDA’s ban on numerous SPF filters, affecting K-Beauty sunscreens. Charlotte explains the historical context of Korean sunscreens’ legality in the U.S.:

Jill Dunn (20:06): "Sunscreen refugees will be coming to Canada."

They discuss the ramifications for brands like Beauty of Joseon and the potential market shift towards zinc and titanium dioxide-based sunscreens. The conversation highlights fears that deregulation under certain administrations could lead to unregulated and ineffective sunscreen products entering the market.

Beauty Industry Slowdown vs. Market Correction (28:43 - 32:04)

Jill and Charlotte explore the notion of a "beauty slowdown," debating whether it signifies a true industry downturn or a necessary market correction amidst overwhelming competition and economic pressures. Jill posits:

Jill Dunn (30:00): "I think there is a slowdown because there's just too much shit in the market."

They agree that the proliferation of brands and rising costs due to tariffs on packaging have strained the market, potentially leading to sustained innovation and "scrappy" business strategies.

Dermfluencers and Trustworthiness in Skincare Advice (32:04 - 36:39)

The discussion shifts to the rise of "dermfluencers"—influencers offering dermatological advice without formal medical training. Jill voices concerns about the reliability of such sources:

Jill Dunn (32:18): "It's weird to follow influencers that have no medical degree, no medical training, and we follow them for medical advice."

They emphasize the importance of transparency and credibility, advocating for influencers to disclose sponsorships and qualifications to maintain trust with their audience.

Critique of Beef Tallow in Moisturizers (36:39 - 39:12)

Jill castigates the resurgence of beef tallow in skincare, labeling it as an overhyped and unnecessary ingredient:

Jill Dunn (37:05): "Any launch that's like, in the beef tallow world…that's a cult, babe."

She argues that beef tallow lacks the sustainability and efficacy of alternatives like squalane, cautioning against its potential to disrupt the skin barrier over time.

Innovations and Trends in Skincare (39:12 - 50:29)

The conversation transitions to various skincare innovations, including delivery systems that enhance ingredient efficacy and the integration of antioxidants and milky toners to combat pollution. Jill shares her enthusiasm for new sunscreens entering the U.S. market, particularly praising brands like Ultraviolet for their quality and competitive pricing.

Jill Dunn (50:49): "Honestly, it's all sunscreen."

They also discuss the impact of social media platforms like TikTok Shop on product sales and marketing strategies, noting the challenges of algorithm changes and the importance of authentic content.

Final Thoughts and Top Shelf Recommendations (50:29 - 53:57)

In wrapping up, the hosts reiterate their excitement for upcoming sunscreen launches and the continued evolution of the skincare industry. Jill shares personal anecdotes about using high-tech tools like UV cameras to monitor skin health, emphasizing a scientific approach to skincare.

Notable Quotes:

• Charlotte Palermino (03:21): "I think it's a very interesting time to put CE Ferulic on your package."
• Jill Dunn (11:11): "Erno Laszlo created tinted serum essentially to…it was 80% skincare, 20% makeup."
• Jill Dunn (15:02): "It's creating such a deep chemical burn…they had to take that out and they completely reformulated it."
• Jill Dunn (30:00): "I think there is a slowdown because there's just too much shit in the market."
• Jill Dunn (32:18): "It's weird to follow influencers that have no medical degree, no medical training, and we follow them for medical advice."
• Jill Dunn (37:05): "Any launch that's like, in the beef tallow world…that's a cult, babe."
• Jill Dunn (50:49): "Honestly, it's all sunscreen."

Conclusion

In this episode of Breaking Beauty Podcast, hosts Jill Dunn and Carlene Higgins, alongside guest Charlotte Palermino, provide an in-depth analysis of significant developments in the beauty industry. From the expiration of SkinCeuticals' CE Ferulic patent and the challenges facing K-Beauty sunscreens in the U.S., to the questionable resurgence of beef tallow in skincare and the credibility of dermfluencers, the conversation is rich with expert insights. The episode underscores the importance of transparency, innovation, and informed consumer choices in navigating the ever-evolving beauty landscape.

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