How-to Think (And Shop!) Like a Cosmetic Chemist with Glow by Ramón - Breaking Beauty Podcast

Transcript

A (0:01)

The following podcast is a dear media production. Welcome to Breaking Beauty the podcast, all about the breakthrough people, products and moments in beauty.

B (0:13)

We're your hosts, Jill Dunn and Carlene Higgins. Welcome back to Breaking Beauty Podcast, everyone. Of course, this is the show all about the breakthrough people, products and moments in beauty. I'm Jill Dunn, one of your co hosts, sitting here alongside my pod wife, life, Carlene Higgins. So, Carlene, of course, we're two longtime magazine beauty editors turn beauty podcasters and we're in your feeds each and every Wednesday. And before we get into today's episode, we just have to do a little PSA because there's a lot going on around here. Yes.

A (0:48)

We are doing a couple of live events. Yes. And that's so exciting. It's been a minute. We're doing not just one, we're doing two.

B (0:56)

Yes. Basically back to back. Yeah.

A (0:58)

One will take place in Toronto, our hometown, and one of them's in Brooklyn.

B (1:02)

Yeah. Of course, it wouldn't be a live podcast event if we didn't have our audience join us. The one in Brooklyn is on March 2nd. We can reveal that. And the one in Toronto is on March 5th. Stay tuned to our Instagram so you can find out details on how to rsvp. There's going to be swag bags. Great conversations and being together. It's just the best.

C (1:21)

Yes.

A (1:22)

Love that. And we talk to the best people in the beauty industry. We are so lucky. Going into our ninth year, we speak to a lot of amazing founders, dermatologists, estheticians, and cosmetic chemists.

B (1:36)

That is our epic guest today. It is Ramon Pagan and He has nearly 350,000 followers across social media. Carlene. So that's TikTok, Instagram, YouTube. And his audience really knows him best as Glow by Ramon, because he's taking you behind the scenes. Yes. Opening up that lab coat and letting us know what goes into a formulation, whether it be skincare makeup. And he's just a huge, passionate beauty buff himself. Yes, absolutely.

A (2:04)

And the skin was glowing.

C (2:05)

Yeah.

A (2:06)

And I have to say now that I'm a beauty founder as well. Cassatt Beauty. That's Beauty 15 for your. For your code, guys. I have an extra special interest in chemistry, I feel like, because in the process of developing skin care, I just have more pointed questions. Yeah. So I love speaking to chemists and I love that everybody's going to get a taste of how to think like and how to shop like a cosmetic.

Summary

Breaking Beauty Podcast
Episode: How-to Think (And Shop!) Like a Cosmetic Chemist with Glow by Ramón
Date: February 18, 2026
Hosts: Jill Dunn & Carlene Higgins
Guest: Ramón Pagán (Glow by Ramón)

Episode Overview

This engaging episode features cosmetic chemist and creator Ramón Pagán (aka Glow by Ramón), who joins hosts Jill Dunn and Carlene Higgins to demystify the beauty world through a chemist’s lens. Listeners learn how to think critically about formulations, ingredients, and marketing claims, and get tips for savvy skincare shopping. Through in-depth conversation, Ramón breaks down ingredient myths, explains how new innovations come to market, and shares his best (and least favorite) product recommendations — all with plenty of humor and expert perspective.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Meet Glow by Ramón & His Beauty Journey

Ramón’s Background (11:24–12:06):
- Began in beauty due to his own struggles with severe acne. Initially used makeup for coverage, which led to a deep dive into ingredients and eventually a career in cosmetic chemistry.
- “It was really bad acne... then became a deep dive. And here we are, like, 10 years later.” (Ramón, 12:01)
Product Formulator vs. Cosmetic Chemist (12:06–13:56):
- Formulators can execute a recipe in the lab; chemists possess foundational chemistry knowledge to innovate and troubleshoot.
- “There’s a debate as to what really qualifies you as a cosmetic chemist... For me, it's less a qualification thing and more just an ability to understand intricacies, to troubleshoot.” (Ramón, 12:25 & 12:41)

2. Ingredient Myths & Setting Sprays

Alcohol in Setting Sprays (14:33–16:23):
- Not all setting sprays contain alcohol; those that do use it to help film formers set but many popular ones are alcohol-free.
- Alcohol isn’t inherently bad in cosmetics—unless you have a known sensitivity, it’s generally safe and functional.
“So we don't need to be afraid that there's alcohol... No... I'm very pro alcohol in a lot of products... It can make things more lightweight, feel cooling... It flashes off so quick.”
(Ramón, 15:10–15:35)

3. How New Ingredients & Tech Reach Beauty

Sourcing Innovation (16:54–18:32):
- Many ingredients are adapted from other industries (medical, food science, material science).
- Increasing focus on upcycling byproducts (e.g., cellulose from paper industry, rosehip oil byproducts).
Example: “So much in ingredient innovation is actually borrowed from other industries. The primary film formers are borrowed from Paint Street. Analytical practices from the food industry...” (Ramón, 16:57)

4. Medical-Grade Ingredients: Reality or Hype?

Growth Factors, Exosomes, etc. (19:12–21:04):
- Injected substances may have benefits, but topical efficacy is often much less clear.
- Biggest concern: “In a finalized product... is that ingredient still viable and is it able to get to where it needs to do what it needs to do?… That’s not always the case.” (Ramón, 20:00)

5. Reading Ingredient Lists (a.k.a. INCI/Label Literacy)

How Ramón Shops (21:25–22:53):
- Looks for sensory experience first, then benefit claims, then price—skeptical of high prices for ordinary products.
- “At the end of the day, a moisturizer [is] going to moisturize... So some of those claims do get outlandish... And then that's when I start looking at the price point.” (Ramón, 21:57)

6. Product Pricing: What's Worth It?

Raw Material vs. Retail Price (23:14–24:17):
- Manufacturing cost is usually low ($1–2/unit); price is driven by clinical testing, packaging, and brand narrative.
- “Formulas are really not expensive to make... what you’re really buying then is the markup, the marketing cost, the packaging.” (Ramón, 23:17)
When Price May Be Justified:
- Expensive clinical trials to verify claims can drive product cost.
- “That’s where to me, the price point actually can make a difference.” (Ramón, 24:15)

7. Actives vs. Functional Ingredients

Definitions & Regulatory Nuance (24:55–28:28):
- True ‘actives’ are ingredients with a biological effect, but many basics (glycerin, lanolin) can straddle the line.
- Regulations (and marketing) vary: a claim like “treats acne” is a drug, vs. “improves appearance of blemishes” is cosmetic.
- “There's a very clear definition of a cosmetic does this. And if you're selling as a cosmetic, you have to be diligent about the wording.” (Ramón, 27:00)

8. Expensive vs. Cheap Ingredients: The Truth

Cost Drivers (29:38–31:11):
- Bioengineering, sourcing (Swiss/European/Asian), scarcity, import costs can all drive up expense.
- Ingredient complexes (cocktails of multiple actives) further complicate cost analysis for consumers.

9. Ramón’s Ingredient Hot Takes

Won’t work with?
- “No. I work for brands... and there's just—I do this because I like it, and therefore, it's always fun to play with... There's nothing that’s inherently bad or just, like, I’m over that.” (Ramón, 31:18)
Most Underrated:
- Lanolin and glycerin — simple but highly effective.
- “Glycerin’s just a really amazing product by itself... superstar.” (Ramón, 31:56/32:22)
Most Overrated:
- Hyaluronic acid.
- “I think there’s a lot of other ingredients that do better, or just tell a better story.”
- Name-checks polyglutamic acid and ectoin as worthy alternatives. (Ramón, 32:29–32:46)

10. Ingredient Percentages on Labels

Should consumers care?
- Not really. Complexes and actives are nuanced—clinical proof matters more than percent on a bottle.
- “Do you see the benefits you want from the product?... Don't worry about the numbers.” (Ramón, 34:05)

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

On Ingredient Sourcing:
“We pull from a lot of different industries, food science as well...so much in ingredient innovation is actually borrowed.” (16:57)
On “Sexier” Ingredients:
“Exosomes are more sexy to talk about right now. So they get a lot of the headlines...” (21:06)
On Sensory Shopping:
“I’m always sold on a sensory moment and I’m always looking at, how does this make me feel?” (21:46)
On Cosmetic Industry Realities:
“Formulas are really not expensive to make… what you’re really buying… is the markup, the marketing cost, the packaging costs...” (23:14–23:17)
On Science and Social Media:
“That’s the thing about science is like, it’s never like 100. It’s always evolving and changing... That's why... scientists like to get into it with each other sometimes.” (28:33, 45:43)
On Emptied Products:
“It's surprisingly like TheraBreath mouthwash... But skincare ... Jon Aqua Fresh, the relief sun. That for me, it's like I always run late to things. I just throw one product on my face, have it do 17 things.” (47:25)
On Save or Splurge (Rapid Fire Game, 48:22–50:13):
- Cleanser: Save
- Peptide Serum: “Usually splurge...if the delivery system is there and efficacy is proven.”
- Eye Cream: Save (fave: Kiehl’s Avocado/Haruharu gel)
- Sunscreen: Always save — “Should not be that expensive.”
- Acne treatment: Save — “You don’t have to spend a lot.”
- Moisturizer: Save — “Most subjective product... what you like and want.”
  (48:22–50:13)

Sunscreen Science: A Deep Dive

New Filters and the Drama (34:09–37:56):
- The US soon to approve bemotrizinol (Tinosorb S/Parsol Shield), a major advancement for non-mineral/“clean” sunscreens with a better skin feel, less white cast.
- “Hopefully it’s going to make formulas more elegant... going to be Grace certified... which means the clean beauty people are going to be fine with us using Tinosorb S” (34:23)
SPF Formulation Challenges (35:02–36:32):
- Formulating high-SPF mineral sunscreens is technically tough; color inclusivity remains a major challenge due to regulatory ingredient restrictions (e.g., ultramarine blue not allowed in OTC drugs).
- Recent SPF scandals and the move toward independent 3rd-party and international lab testing.
On Avobenzone Safety (37:56–41:11):
- Recent FDA-mandated studies show commonly-used chemical filters (avobenzone, octocrylene, etc.) are “proven safe” with negligible toxicity or hormonal activity despite previous regulatory alarm.
- “...[those filters] were shown to have negligible absorption, no toxicity... all proven safe... If we just have the receipts... we encourage you to use them.” (38:15)

Industry Insights & Challenges

Innovation is Hard, Money is Tight (43:47–44:50):
- Chemists often act as executioners for brand visions, with little power over what hits the market—innovation is difficult.
- Salary reality check: “Chemists don’t get paid very well.” Many peers leave for ingredient sales or create content instead.
Online Friction: Chemists vs. Influencers vs. Estheticians (45:43–46:58):
- “Until you have been in a lab... that limits your ability to talk in certain situations or opine on certain things... There’s theory, then there’s practical experience.” (46:03)
Diversity Needed in Cosmetic Chemistry (44:54–45:25):
- Ramón’s advocacy for more diversity and transparency in cosmetic science:
  “I think what’s more unique for my content compared to the other chemists is, it actually was more of like, an activism thing—an outreach. We need young people. We need fresh faces, we need more diversity in the industry.” (45:17–45:25)

Timestamps for Important Segments

11:24 – Ramón’s personal journey into beauty
12:06 – Formulator vs. Chemist: what’s the difference?
14:33 – Setting sprays and alcohol misconceptions
16:54 – Where cosmetic innovations come from
19:12 – Growth factors, exosomes, and the truth about “medical” ingredients
21:25 – How Ramón reads (and shops) ingredient lists
23:14 – Product pricing: what are we actually paying for?
24:55 – Actives vs. functionals, and regulatory fine print
29:38 – Ingredients: when does cost make sense?
32:29 – Ingredient hot takes: overrated and underrated
34:09 – Cutting-edge sunscreen filters and industry drama
38:15 – Avobenzone and sunscreen chemical safety
43:47 – Innovation, salaries, and chemists’ role in the industry
45:25 – Diversity and outreach in cosmetic science
46:02 – Friction in the beauty expert online world
48:22 – Save or Splurge rapid-fire (peptides, eye cream, sunscreen, etc.)
50:13 – Final recommendations and where to follow Ramón

Conclusion

This episode is a must-listen for beauty lovers who want to sharpen their critical eye and shop smarter — without the jargon or confusion. Ramón brings wit, transparency, and deep knowledge, debunking ingredient myths, explaining why some products are pricey, and sharing honest opinions on what’s worth your money. If you want to think and shop like a cosmetic chemist, this is your gold-standard beauty podcast episode.

Find Ramón (“Glow by Ramón”) on TikTok, YouTube, and Instagram for more content that makes science approachable and fun.