Breaking Beauty Podcast: How-To Transition To Your Spring Skincare Routine Like a Dermatologist

Episode Release Date: March 26, 2025
Hosts: Jill Dunn and Carlene Higgins
Guest: Dr. Dendy Engelman, Board-Certified Dermatologist

1. Introduction to Dr. Dendy Engelman

In this episode, hosts Jill Dunn and Carlene Higgins welcome back Dr. Dendy Engelman, a renowned dermatologist and Mohs surgeon at Schaer Clinic on Fifth Avenue in Manhattan. Dr. Engelman, known for her expertise in both medical and cosmetic dermatology, has been featured on various media platforms and has co-authored numerous dermatology textbook chapters. This marks her second appearance on the Breaking Beauty Podcast, underscoring her valuable insights into skincare.

Notable Quote:
Carlene Higgins [08:33]: "She's done over 10,000 Mohs surgeries and is always on the front lines of new skincare trends and techniques."

2. Transitioning Skincare Routines: Key Changes for Spring

As winter fades and spring arrives, Dr. Engelman emphasizes the importance of adjusting skincare routines to accommodate changes in weather and skin needs. She advises discontinuing the use of vitamin A derivatives like retinol or retinoids during the summer months due to their photosensitizing effects, which can increase sensitivity to the sun and exacerbate issues like melasma.

Notable Quote:
Dr. Engelman [10:12]: "Vitamin A derivatives are wonderful for combating fine lines and hyperpigmentation, but they photosensitize your skin, making them less ideal for summer use."

3. Hydration and Moisturizer Adjustments

With rising humidity in spring, heavier, emollient-rich creams used in winter may become unnecessary or even counterproductive, especially for oily or acne-prone skin types. Dr. Engelman recommends switching to lighter formulations such as gels or lotions that contain hyaluronic acid (HA) paired with ceramides or sealants to maintain optimal hydration without overwhelming the skin.

Notable Quote:
Carlene Higgins [11:45]: "I often see HA being touted as a miracle plumper, but without a sealant, it can actually leave the skin drier than before."

Recommended Products:

• Neutrogena Hydro Boost: A lightweight, non-comedogenic HA serum suitable for oily and acne-prone skin.
• Elizabeth Arden Hyaluronic Acid Capsules: Each capsule pairs HA with ceramides for enhanced hydration and sealing.

4. Sunscreen: Types, Usage, and Innovations

Dr. Engelman underscores the necessity of daily sunscreen application, regardless of the season. She advocates for a minimum SPF of 30, highlighting the importance of reapplication throughout the day to prevent cumulative UV damage. Different forms of sunscreen, such as tinted sunscreens and powder formulations, offer convenient options for those frequently applying makeup.

Notable Quote:
Dr. Engelman [13:36]: "Sunscreen should be part of your routine just like brushing your teeth—consistent and unwavering."

Featured Sunscreens:

• Aerifotona Ageless by Isdin: A tinted SPF 50 sunscreen enriched with DNA repair enzymes to reverse sun damage.
• City Smart by Prevage: SPF 50 sunscreen with a pollution shield and antioxidants, offering triple protection against UV rays and environmental pollutants.

5. Addressing Hyperpigmentation in Spring

Spring, with increased sun exposure, poses challenges for individuals dealing with hyperpigmentation and melasma. Dr. Engelman recommends physical blockers and tinted sunscreens to provide enhanced protection. She discusses active ingredients like azelaic acid and hydroquinone for treating hyperpigmented areas, emphasizing the need for professional supervision to avoid adverse effects.

Notable Quote:
Jill Dunn [25:35]: "Tinted sunscreens offer more protection against hyperpigmentation by blocking the stimulation of melanocytes."

6. In-Office Skincare Treatments

Dr. Engelman highlights several in-office treatments ideal for spring skincare routines:

• Fractionated CO₂ Laser (e.g., Fraxel): Stimulates collagen and elastin production, improving skin texture and tone with customizable downtime.

  Notable Quote:
  Dr. Engelman [40:13]: "Fractionated CO₂ is a great investment for one-time treatments that deliver significant results without prolonged recovery periods."

• Platelet-Rich Plasma (PRP) Therapy: Enhances healing and boosts treatment outcomes when combined with procedures like laser resurfacing.

  Notable Quote:
  Dr. Engelman [41:16]: "PRP contains your own growth factors, expediting healing and turbocharging results."

• Salmon Sperm Facial: Utilizes ethically sourced polydeoxyribonucleotides (PDRN) to reduce recovery time and enhance skin repair post-procedure.

  Notable Quote:
  Dr. Engelman [43:00]: "PDRN from salmon is 97% bioidentical with human DNA, making it highly effective in skin recovery."

7. Emerging Trends in Skincare: Exosomes and Growth Factors

The discussion delves into the burgeoning use of exosomes and growth factors in skincare. Dr. Engelman acknowledges their potential but cautions that the field is still in its nascent stages, requiring more standardized research to establish consistent efficacy and safety.

Notable Quote:
Dr. Engelman [49:49]: "Exosomes show real promise, but we need more studies to ensure reliable results and appropriate concentrations."

8. Recommendations on Ingredients and Labels

Understanding skincare product labels is crucial for consumers seeking effective ingredients. Dr. Engelman explains terms like "photolyase" (a DNA repair enzyme) and emphasizes the importance of recognizing these specialized ingredients, which may not always be clearly marketed due to regulatory complexities.

Notable Quote:
Dr. Engelman [51:13]: "Photolyase works by repairing DNA mismatches caused by UV exposure, preventing issues like skin cancer and premature aging."

9. Conclusion and Final Thoughts

As the episode wraps up, Dr. Engelman highlights the continuous advancements in skincare technology, expressing optimism for future innovations that enhance skin health and appearance. Hosts Jill and Carlene thank Dr. Engelman for her invaluable insights, encouraging listeners to visit their website for detailed product information and exclusive promo codes.

Notable Quote:
Dr. Engelman [52:19]: "We're living in an exciting time for skincare, with breakthroughs that promise to keep our skin looking and feeling fantastic for longer."

Key Takeaways

• Seasonal Adjustments: Transition from heavier moisturizers and retinoids in winter to lighter formulations and pause vitamin A derivatives in summer.
• Hydration Strategy: Incorporate hyaluronic acid with a sealing agent like ceramides to maintain optimal skin hydration.
• Sunscreen Discipline: Apply SPF 30 or higher daily, with reapplications as needed; explore innovative formats like tinted and powder sunscreens.
• Hyperpigmentation Management: Use physical blockers and consult professionals for treatments involving azelaic acid or hydroquinone.
• Professional Treatments: Consider in-office options like fractionated CO₂ laser, PRP therapy, and specialized facials for enhanced skin rejuvenation.
• Stay Informed on Trends: Be cautious with emerging ingredients like exosomes and prioritize scientifically backed treatments.
• Ingredient Awareness: Learn to identify and understand specialized skincare ingredients for better product selection and skin health.

For a comprehensive list of products discussed and exclusive promo codes, visit breakingbeautypodcast.com.

Note: This summary excludes promotional segments and focuses solely on the substantive content of the conversation between the hosts and Dr. Dendy Engelman.