Breaking Beauty Podcast

Episode: How-to Transition Your Skincare Routine to Fall and Winter, According to a Dermatologist: “Short Contact” Therapy, Layering Hacks and Barrier-Boosting Secrets

Hosts: Jill Dunn & Carlene Higgins
Guest: Dr. Kim Blakely, Dermatologist
Date: October 15, 2025

Episode Overview

In this episode, hosts Jill and Carlene sit down with Dr. Kim Blakely, board-certified dermatologist and founder of Elevate Medical and Cosmetic Dermatology. The trio digs deep into how to successfully transition your skincare routine from summer to fall and winter. Covering topics like skin barrier support, product layering, exfoliation, SPF myths, “short contact” therapy for actives, and the best ingredients to resilient, healthy skin, Dr. Blakely provides practical advice and expert-backed hacks tailored for cooler, drier months.

Key Discussion Points & Expert Insights

1. Moisturizer & Layering Adjustments for Cooler Weather

• Main advice: As humidity drops, swap lightweight lotions for heavier moisturizers to prevent eczema and manage dryness.
  • Dr. Blakely: “I'm thinking about how to maintain a good moisture barrier for my skin… switching from a lighter moisturizer to maybe a bit of a heavier moisturizer … as we're moving into the lower humidity, cooler temperatures.” [02:10]
• Layering Hack:
  • Apply a humectant (like hyaluronic acid serum) on damp skin, then follow with moisturizer for better hydration.
    • “I do like putting on… hyaluronic acid… it's going to grab onto that water, pull it deep in the skin, and if you follow that with your moisturizer… allow it to go deeper into the skin.” [07:48]
• Give time between layers:
  • Wait a couple of minutes after each product for optimal absorption. [09:27]

2. Cleansers and Adjusting “Actives”

• Cleaner Swap:
  • Use gentler cleansers in fall/winter:
    • “If they are using a lot of actives in their cleanser… they may want to tone that back as they transition into fall and winter.” [02:58]
  • Over-use of harsh cleansers can backfire, worsening acne and inflammation.
• Short Contact Therapy for Actives:
  • Gradually introduce potent ingredients (e.g., retinoids, benzoyl peroxide) to minimize irritation.
    • “Wash your face at nighttime, dry really well, put a pea sized amount and watch an episode of Netflix. You can start at half an hour… and then wash it off.” [10:03]
    • Build up tolerance before leaving actives on overnight.

3. Exfoliation Tweaks: Don’t Overdo It

• Personalization is key:
  • Scale back on exfoliants if experiencing dryness or irritation; listen to your skin.
    • “If you're getting dry and flaky, that's a sign that you need to change some things up. If you're getting red and irritated… something's not working right.” [03:59]
• Favorite exfoliants:
  • Gentle blends of AHA and BHA, salicylic acid for acne, azelaic acid for redness/rosacea.
    • Dr. Blakely: “I like a combination… of multiple AHAs and BHAs… For my patients who are acne prone, I'm definitely kind of leaning towards salicylic acid… Azelaic acid is fantastic... for my rosacea prone patients...” [04:35]
  • Azelaic acid causes mild exfoliation and should be introduced slowly. [05:18–06:04]

4. SPF: Yes, All Year Long!

• Winter SPF remains essential:
  • “Even though I'm not going to the beach every day and lying in the sun, every time you are outdoors, you are getting hit with UV rays… that cumulative exposure is going to damage your skin.” [14:02]
• Three compelling reasons:
  • Prevents cumulative sun damage, anti-aging, and helps control pigmentation like melasma.
    • “You have to wear your sunscreen. It is the most… you can use every active in the book. And if you are not wearing sunscreen every single day, you're basically throwing your money down the garbage.” [14:02]
• Tinted SPF recommended for extra pigmentation defense (iron oxide content).

5. SPF in Moisturizers vs. Stand-Alone SPF

• Expert stance: Always use a separated dedicated sunscreen, even if moisturizer has SPF.
  • “You need a separate moisturizer and a separate sunscreen... When it comes to SPF, the way that we test SPF, it equates to two finger lengths of sunscreen… Nobody is putting that much moisturizer on their face.” [18:21]
• If you apply two fingers’ worth of a moisturizer with SPF, theoretically you get the SPF, but it’s impractical and uncomfortable, so use a dedicated SPF instead. [19:29–20:17]

6. Skin Barrier Science & Support

• Understanding the barrier (“bricks and mortar”):
  • The barrier is like “bricks (cells) and mortar (lipids).” Damage lets water escape and irritants/allergens enter. [23:15]
• Culprits of barrier damage:
  • Overusing actives, harsh exfoliation, UV exposure, and environmental stressors.
• How do you know it’s compromised?
  • Signs: tightness, redness, burning, stinging, flaking, worsening acne.
    • “That whole idea that, oh, it's burning, it's working, no, that's not… If it's burning, it means it's doing something to your skin that you don't want it to do…” [24:55]

7. Fixing & Strengthening the Skin Barrier

• Moisturizer vs. Occlusives (“slugging”):
  • Occlusives like petrolatum (“slugging”) can help lock in moisture, especially for severely dry/eczema skin.
    • “Adding back moisture… with emollients… then locking it in with an occlusive can be very effective… I love the idea of slugging.” [26:28]
  • Not necessary for all—those with acne should be careful.
• On lip balms:
  • Dr. Blakely prefers plain petrolatum jelly over fragranced/color lip balms to cut risk of irritation.
    • “I am not a fan of lip balms in general. I find that they often have fragrance… different potential sensitizers … Just use plain old petrolatum jelly.” [27:56]

8. Star Ingredients for Your Routine

• Barrier heroes:

  • Humectants (hyaluronic acid, glycerin), ceramides, colloidal oats, prebiotics.
    • “There are ceramides… a natural lipid that we see in the skin… and then there’s other really great actives like oats. So colloidal oat, which we can use to help support our skin barrier.” [29:02]
    • Colloidal oats are highlighted for lipid content and anti-inflammatory properties.

• Why Aveeno’s Calm and Restore Range Stands Out:

  • Colloidal oat delivers lipids & antioxidants for barrier repair, gentle for all ages, and trusted due to legacy/testing.
    • “It's special because oats… are really lipid rich… supplying antioxidants… helps with barrier repair, it calms down inflammation.” [30:36]

• Prebiotics and the skin:

  • Support the skin’s beneficial bacteria, helping healthy flora outcompete the bad (like staph aureus in eczema-prone skin).
    • “When we are providing those prebiotics back to the skin, we are supporting the skin’s microbiome, we're supporting the healthy bacteria that we need to colonize our skin…” [32:57]

9. Balancing Actives and Moisture: Dr. Blakely’s Golden Rules

• Be patient:
  • “People expect immediate results and that is not going to happen in the context of skincare. So number one, you need to be patient.” [35:45]
• One new product at a time:
  • “I never introduce multiple products at once… introduce one product at a time, give it a chance to work…” [35:45]
• Elimination diet for skin:
  • If irritated, go back to basics: gentle cleanser, moisturizer, sunscreen. Slowly reintroduce actives (one every two weeks).
    • “If you are getting skin irritation… cut everything out. Go back to basics. … allow your skin barrier to repair itself…” [35:45]

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On SPF all year:

  • “If you are not wearing sunscreen every single day, you’re basically throwing your money down the garbage.” – Dr. Blakely [14:02]

• On exfoliation:

  • “Listen to your skin, and if you’re getting dry and flaky, that’s a sign you need to change some things up.” – Dr. Blakely [03:59]

• On the “skin burning means it’s working” myth:

  • “That whole idea that, oh, it's burning, it's working, no, that’s not… If it’s burning, it means it’s doing something to your skin that you don’t want it to do.” – Dr. Blakely [24:55]

• On patience in skincare:

  • “Consistency is key, key. So you have to introduce that product, stick with it and provided you're not having a negative reaction to the product, you have to be patient to wait for it to work.” – Dr. Blakely [35:45]

• Playful Moments:

  • Jill teasing Carlene about getting tan lines in Italy despite being a “sunscreen worshiper.” [13:13]
  • On lip balms: “I can't quit [lip oil]! No, I’m joking.” – Carlene [28:51]

Timestamps of Key Segments

• [02:10] Transitioning to heavier moisturizers and layering with humectants
• [02:58] Adjusting cleansers for fall/winter
• [03:59] Adjusting exfoliation and “listening to your skin”
• [10:03] “Short contact” therapy for actives like retinoids
• [14:02] Sunscreen essentials year-round and top reasons for daily SPF
• [18:21] Moisturizer with SPF vs. separate SPF debate
• [23:15] Explaining skin barrier as “bricks and mortar”
• [26:28] Slugging and how to use occlusives effectively
• [29:02] Best barrier-supporting skincare ingredients
• [30:36] Why Aveeno Calm and Restore line is derma-approved
• [32:57] Prebiotics and the skin microbiome
• [35:45] Final advice on introducing actives and barrier balancing

Recap & Takeaways

• Layer up: Heavier moisturizers + humectants help maintain hydration as temps drop.
• Cut back on harsh cleansers and over-exfoliation: Switch to gentle formulas and listen to your skin’s signals.
• Try short contact therapy for introducing potent actives without irritation.
• Don’t ditch the SPF, ever: Even dark, cold days have aging and pigment-inducing rays.
• Give barrier love: Use ceramides, hyaluronic acid, oats, and prebiotics for resilience.
• Patience + one product at a time = best results: Build your routine methodically for happier, healthier skin year-round.

Ideal for anyone navigating seasonal skin changes or struggling with barrier health, this episode is packed with dermatologist-approved wisdom and lively, no-nonsense advice in the signature Breaking Beauty style.