Breaking Beauty Podcast:

Stop Sabotaging Your Skin! The Dermatologist-Approved Healthy Skin Habits You Need to Start Now
Hosts: Jill Dunn & Carlene Higgins | Guest: Dr. Julia Carroll
Release Date: December 31, 2025

Episode Overview

In this season-closing episode, beauty editors-turned-podcasters Jill Dunn and Carlene Higgins tap into the expert insights of Dr. Julia Carroll—a renowned, board-certified dermatologist—to unpack dermatologist-approved healthy skin habits. The discussion covers the most vital daily routines for glowing, resilient skin, debunks trending skincare myths, and addresses common pitfalls and solutions for winter skincare. The spirited conversation reveals why a simplified approach, barrier protection, sun safety, and being intentional with products matter more than flashy multi-step routines—and how to course-correct if you’ve overdone things. Expect practical hacks, candid stories, and science-driven advice.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. The Core Philosophy of Healthy Skin

Keep it simple, stack wisely, and prioritize skin health over trends

• Dr. Carroll emphasizes abandoning overwhelming 10-step routines in favor of consistency with well-chosen essentials.
• She advocates a “funnel” approach: daily maintenance, occasional professional treatments, and only rarely, interventions like plastic surgery.
  • (03:17) “I think the days of the ten step crazy routines are over... keep it simple.” — Dr. Carroll

2. Winter Skincare Dos and Don’ts

Protect your barrier; fight dryness proactively

• Good Habits: Early and consistent moisturizing with barrier-repairing ingredients; avoid unnecessary routine changes.
• Bad Habits: Hot showers (they strip the skin’s moisture), and constantly chasing new products/trends which can disrupt the skin.
  • (04:37) “One of the worst things that Canadians do is… super hot showers, which strip their skin of all the moisture.” — Dr. Carroll

3. Understanding Skin Barrier, Moisturization, and Hydration

• Skin barrier is your skin’s “brick wall”—made of cells and “glue” like ceramides. Barrier damage equals increased sensitivity and water loss.
• Moisturization replaces lost hydration; hydration is specifically water content in the skin.
• Key ingredients: humectants (draw moisture, e.g., hyaluronic acid), occlusives (seal moisture), and ceramides (restore barrier glue).
  • (06:55) “We talk about [the barrier] like a brick wall... Ceramides are definitely one that we talk about a lot in moisturization. Hyaluronic acid is a huge one.” — Dr. Carroll

4. What “Healthy Skin” Means to a Dermatologist

• First: Absence of active disease (acne, sun damage, eczema, etc.)
• Then: Texture, bounce, evenness, and luminosity. “Light reflection” is key—healthy skin bounces light, appears smooth and plump.
  • (08:13) “When you look at someone and you think that they have really healthy looking skin, you're making that judgment in probably two seconds or less...it comes down to skin luminosity.” — Dr. Carroll

5. Soothe and Protect Sensitive Skin

• Key advice: Pare back routine in colder weather, lower frequency of irritant actives (retinoids, acids).
• Hero ingredients: Niacinamide (calms, anti-inflammatory), hyaluronic acid.
• Pro tip: If using potent actives, buffer sensitive areas with a gentle occlusive to prevent irritation (“game-changing!”).
  • (12:29) “A little hack...if I am using something really strong like a retinol...I will put an occlusive around my nostrils, around my mouth, all around your eyes. And it helps insanely with it not traveling and not making you more irritated.” — Jill Dunn

6. Dealing with Eczema and Overusing Exfoliants

• At severe flare-up: Seek prescription (typically steroid, but non-steroid options emerging).
• Use as directed until CLEAR, not just “improved.” Inconsistent use leads to chronic flare-ups.
• For flakiness from over-exfoliation: let inflammation settle, then use mild acids like lactic acid (hydrating, gentle exfoliation).
  • (15:49) “You'll end up using less product if you're consistent and use it as directed...” — Dr. Carroll

7. Surprising Skin Triggers: Manicures, Lip Balms & More

• Gel manicures: Uncured fumes/allergens can flare facial eczema, particularly on eyelids. Track links between treatments and outbreaks.
• Lip balms: Avoid minty/tingling types (irritate and inflame), flavored balms (increase lip licking, cause dermatitis).
  • (21:25) “If you are a lick lipper...using your lip balm is making you lick your lips more often... that's not a good choice for you.” — Dr. Carroll

8. Eye Area Habits

• Prioritize sun protection (SPF, sunglasses) and product choice tailored for delicate skin (eye creams should be ophthalmologist and dermatologist-tested).
• Gels are great daytime choices—cooling, non-greasy, makeup-friendly.
  • (23:46) “A gel product is nice because it's light, it has more water in it...it's going to soak in a little bit nicer.” — Dr. Carroll

9. The Science of Sunscreen: Why, How, and Where

• Daily, year-round application is non-negotiable. UV damage (especially UVA—aging/cancer) is present even through clouds and glass.

• Proper application: Two-finger lengths for face, three for face and neck. Apply as a measured “dose,” not just a feel.

• High-SPF is preferable (SPF 50+). Many only apply enough for SPF 7-8 if they use SPF 30 moisturizer, for instance—so use more, not less.

  • (24:28) “If there's enough light out that you can see your hand in front of you, then you are getting exposed...” — Dr. Carroll
  • (29:31) “If you looked in what [dermatologists] have in their bags, they're using 50s...if you're putting on a 30, you're probably only getting a 7 or 8.” — Dr. Carroll

• Technique: Dot sunscreen onto five key areas (forehead, nose, chin, both cheeks) then blend, to avoid missing spots.

  • (38:06) “So I tend to do dots...then I'll blend it out...my five areas...”

• Don’t forget ears, back of neck, upper lip—commonly missed but cancer-prone.

10. Scalp & Neck Care and Korean Beauty Wisdom

• The scalp and back of neck are crucial: scalp massage can aid facial aesthetics and aging (“scalp as an extension of your forehead muscle”).
• Apply neck creams to both front and back for total anti-aging benefits.

11. Proactive Skin Cancer Checks and “Habit Stacking”

• Mole checks: Use apps or sign up for Melanoma Canada’s full moon reminders. Regular monthly checks catch most melanomas.
• Most skin cancers are found by patients or families noticing “ugly duckling” moles.

12. Habits Derms Never Do (And One You Absolutely Should)

• Never: Use tanning beds (“smoking for your skin—never, ever, ever, ever, ever”—Dr. Carroll, 42:04)
• Absolutely do: Sunscreen EVERY morning, placed by your toothbrush so it’s built into your daily rituals. Focus on hydration and always, always take off makeup at night.
  • (42:43) “I want [listeners] using sunscreen every day. I want you to put it by your toothbrush—it's as important...” — Dr. Carroll

Memorable Quotes & Moments

• On routine simplicity (03:17):
  “The days of the ten step crazy routines are over... keep it simple.” — Dr. Julia Carroll

• On hot showers as a winter skin saboteur (04:37):
  “One of the worst things that Canadians do is… super hot showers, which strip their skin of all the moisture.”— Dr. Julia Carroll

• The “brick wall” skin analogy (06:55): “We talk about it like a brick wall—skin cells and all natural moisturizers... ceramides are the glue that keep those bricks together.” — Dr. Julia Carroll

• On healthy skin as instant perception (08:13):
  “When you look at someone...you’re making that judgment in probably two seconds or less...it comes down to skin luminosity.” — Dr. Julia Carroll

• On prescription eczema treatments (15:49):
  “You’ll end up using less product if you’re consistent...not just a little bit here and a little bit there.” — Dr. Julia Carroll

• Lip balm addiction myth-busting (21:25):
  “Minty, tingly balms feel good, but they're actually irritating to the lips...” — Dr. Julia Carroll

• Sunscreen as non-negotiable habit (42:43):
  “I want you to put [sunscreen] by your toothbrush—it's as important.” — Dr. Julia Carroll

• Never, ever tanning beds (42:04): “I would never use a tanning bed. Never, ever, ever, ever, ever. It is smoking for your skin.” — Dr. Julia Carroll

Notable Timestamps

• Philosophy of healthy skin & keeping it simple: (03:17–04:24)
• Winter skin dos and don’ts (barrier basics): (04:37–06:25)
• Barrier vs. moisturizing vs. hydration: (06:55–08:05)
• Signs of healthy skin (what derms look for): (08:13–09:23)
• Soothing sensitive skin (retinoid “buffer” hack): (10:00–12:33)
• Eczema treatments, why consistency matters: (13:11–15:49)
• Manicures causing eczema on the face: (18:45–20:06)
• Lip balm habits (good vs. bad): (20:26–22:23)
• Daily eye area care & why formulas matter: (22:23–24:13)
• Why you need SPF in winter/indoors: (24:13–25:39)
• Sunscreen application & dosing tricks: (27:50–30:12, 35:00–38:01)
• Neck/scalp maintenance for aging: (38:25–39:40)
• Monthly mole checks & the “full moon” reminder: (39:42–41:05)
• What derms NEVER do (tanning beds): (42:04)
• The #1 habit Dr. Carroll wants everyone to keep: (42:43)

Takeaways for Listeners

• Prioritize consistent, simple routines anchored by barrier maintenance and SPF every single day.
• Mind the details: avoid hot showers, apply sunscreen to often-missed spots, avoid irritant ingredients, and protect the delicate eye area.
• Use science and self-awareness: check your moles regularly, listen to your skin, and be proactive—not reactive.
• Ignore the noise of trendy multi-step routines if they’re overwhelming or unsustainable—quality and intention win.
• Never, ever use tanning beds.

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