Who invented tacos?

Summary

But Why: A Podcast for Curious Kids
Episode Summary: Who Invented Tacos?
Release Date: March 21, 2025
Hosted by: Jane Lindholm
Produced by: Vermont Public

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Introduction

In the March 21, 2025 episode of But Why: A Podcast for Curious Kids, hosted by Jane Lindholm of Vermont Public, the curious minds of children explore the fascinating world of tacos. This episode delves into the origins, evolution, and cultural significance of tacos, featuring insights from Edgar Rico and Sarah Martin Biggie, the chef and operations manager at Nixta Taqueria in Austin, Texas.

Exploring the Origins of Tacos

The episode begins with the fundamental question posed by young listeners: "Who invented tacos?" Children from various parts of the United States ask about the birthplace and creators of this beloved dish.

Edgar Rico explains, “[...] there are kind of two ways that tacos kind of were invented. One of them definitely for sure was that the native people, the Mesoamericans that were living in Mexico, like Aztecs, Mayans, used to eat a round disc made of corn tortilla.” (03:10)

Jane Lindholm elaborates on the historical context, highlighting that while the exact origins are debated, the use of corn tortillas filled with meat or vegetables has been a staple in Mesoamerica for thousands of years. The term “taco” is believed to stem from the Nahuatl language spoken by the Aztecs.

Tacos' Journey to the United States

The discussion transitions to how tacos made their way to the United States. Edgar Rico shares a compelling story about Glen Bell, the founder of Taco Bell, stating:

“Glen Bell realized that maybe the hamburger was not the route that he should take. [...] Eventually, he learned how to make tacos and took this to his own establishment, Taco Bell, changing tacos forever.” (06:04)

Jane adds historical context, noting that large parts of the western United States, including California and Texas, were once part of Mexico. The popularity of tacos surged in the 1960s, transforming tacos into a mainstream American favorite.

Varieties and Ingredients of Tacos

Young listeners are keen to know what goes into their favorite tacos. Questions about the types of meat and the difference between soft and hard shells are addressed comprehensively.

Edgar Rico discusses popular meat fillings:

1. Carne Asada – Grilled beef marinated simply with salt.
2. Al Pastor – Originating from Lebanese shawarma, this pork-based taco often includes pineapple.
3. Carnitas – Tender, slow-cooked pork from Michoacan.
4. Barbacoa – Traditionally cooked in a pit oven for 10-12 hours.

He explains, “[...] salsa adds that little magic, adds that little bit of jazz to your taco.” (10:11)

Sarah Martin Biggie emphasizes the versatility of tacos, stating:

“Some people don't even put salsa on there. [...] It's a very personal thing. So go for it.” (09:53)

The Importance of Tortillas and Nixtamalization

A significant portion of the episode focuses on the tortilla—the foundation of any taco. Jane Lindholm introduces the concept of nixtamalization, an ancient process crucial for making corn tortillas digestible and flavorful.

Edgar Rico breaks it down:

“Nixtamalization is the magic of what happens to corn to create a corn tortilla. [...] It unlocks all the natural nutrients within corn.” (17:07)

Jane adds, “[...] the human body isn't very good at digesting the outer layer of a corn kernel, which is why nixtamalization is essential.” (18:34)

Sarah Martin Biggie highlights the craftsmanship involved in making tortillas:

“It takes a lot of time, a lot of skill. [...] The love that goes into it is not a one-hour thing.” (20:14)

Crafting Fresh Tortillas at Nixta Taqueria

To provide listeners with a behind-the-scenes look, Edgar Rico demonstrates the tortilla-making process at Nixta Taqueria.

Edgar Rico narrates the steps:

“We add a little bit of salt to give it flavor. [...] It's gonna feel like play dough. [...] This one we're adding a little bit of guajillo chili for flavor.” (22:46)

Jane Lindholm describes the fresh taste and texture, noting how Nixta’s tortillas differ significantly from store-bought versions:

“You definitely taste that flavor. It's so much different than a store-bought corn tortilla.” (24:36)

Cultural Significance and Adaptation

Sarah Martin Biggie discusses how tacos have become an integral part of American cuisine, evolving while maintaining their cultural roots:

“Taco Tuesday, that never used to be a thing. [...] Now tacos are part of the American lexicon of food.” (09:22)

The conversation underscores how immigration and cultural exchange have shaped the taco’s journey, similar to other international foods like pizza and sushi.

Engaging the Young Audience

Towards the end of the episode, listeners are encouraged to engage further by answering the playful debate: “Is a taco a sandwich?” Kids are invited to share their opinions via video, fostering an interactive community.

Conclusion

This episode of But Why offers a comprehensive exploration of tacos, from their ancient roots in Mesoamerica to their modern-day status in the United States. Through expert insights and engaging explanations, young listeners gain a deeper appreciation for the cultural and culinary significance of tacos. The episode not only answers pressing questions but also inspires curiosity about the foods that shape our world.

Notable Quotes:

• Edgar Rico: “Nixtamalization is the magic of what happens to corn to create a corn tortilla.” (17:07)
• Sarah Martin Biggie: “Now tacos are part of the American lexicon of food.” (09:22)
• Jane Lindholm: “Without corn, there's no country.” (16:48)

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This summary was generated based on the transcript provided and structured to highlight key discussions, insights, and quotes from the episode.

Transcript

[Katie]

Hey there, Katie here, director of membership at Vermont Public, where But why gets made. I'm also the mom to two big but why Fans Parents. If your kids are anything like mine, they have a lot of questions and love getting answers on this podcast. And let's be honest, you've probably learned a thing or two from it, too. This show is made possible by listeners like you. Please consider making a donation or joining our fan club. Your support keeps the episodes coming full of fun, fascinating answers for curious minds of all ages. Make a [e-mail] and help us keep the questions and answers flowing.

[Jane Lindholm]

But first, here's a message for the adults who are listening. Support for but why comes from Progressive Insurance. You chose to hit play on this podcast today. Smart Choice. Make another smart choice with Auto Quote Explorer to compare rates from multiple car insurance companies all at once. Try [e-mail] Progressive Casualty Insurance Company and affiliates. Not available in all states or situations. Prices vary based on how you buy. This is but why A Podcast for Curious Kids From Vermont Public, I'm Jane Lindholm. On this show, we take questions from curious kids all over the world just like you, and we find answers. I know I'm supposed to be focused on work right now, but it's lunchtime when I'm making this episode and I'm feeling really hungry. What am I feeling hungry for? You might wonder why. Thanks for asking. I Feeling hungry for tacos. Good thing that in this episode we're headed to a taqueria. A taqueria is a restaurant or food stand that makes and sells tacos. Tacos originated in Mexico, but they're popular all over the world. And a lot of you have sent us questions about this popular and ever evolving food. So to learn more and get some answers to your preguntas deliciosas, I went to Austin, Texas to talk with two people who know a lot about tacos.

[Edgar Rico]

My name is Edgar Rico. I am the chef and co owner here at Nixta Taqueria in Austin, Texas.

[Sarah Martin Biggie]

Hey y'all. I am Sarah Martin Biggie. I am the other half of Nixa Taqueria and I do all of our operations.

[Jane Lindholm]

All right, let's talk tacos. We have a lot of taco questions from kids.

[Alani]

My name is Alani and I am 7 years old and I live in Lakewood, Ohio. Who first made tacos? My name is Ben. I am six years old. I live in Ithaca, New York. Who invented tacos? My name is Audrey, I'm nine years old. I live in Cambridge, Massachusetts. Who first made tacos.

[Jane Lindholm]

Where did tacos come from?

[Edgar Rico]

This is a very hotly debated topic, actually. But from what researchers do say, there's kind of two ways that tacos kind of were invented. I mean, one of them definitely for sure was that the native people, the Mesoamericans that were living in Mexico, so like Aztecs, Mayans that were living there, they used to eat a lot of. They weren't necessarily maybe called a taco, but they were eating a round disc made of corn tortilla.

[Jane Lindholm]

Essentially, a tortilla is an essential part of a taco. Now, we don't know exactly when people started eating tacos, but Edgar says the essence of a taco, that corn tortilla filled with some kind of meat or vegetable has long been a staple in Mesoamerica. That's a historical region that encompassed parts of Mexico and Central America. The Aztec people were eating corn tortillas, ground up corn that's been turned into a dough and then flattened out flour for thousands of years. And Edgar points out that many people think the word taco comes from the.

[Edgar Rico]

Native language called Nahuatl, which is spoken by Aztec people.

[Jane Lindholm]

But another idea is that tacos as we know them today are more recently tied to the late 1800s.

[Edgar Rico]

There was a lot of mining that was happening in Mexico, and a lot of the miners who would work would get these corn filled tortillas and they would fill them with a little guiso, so to speak, or like a little braised meat is what we call a giso in Spanish. They would take the couple of these with them as a little lunch, and they would go work the mines. And, you know, a taco is a nice kind of package in a meal. It's all wrapped up and you can take it with you and it's transportable. And these guys would eat these throughout the day. You know, they would maybe stop for a little break, have a little taco and be on their way. The first published recipe, they do say, was in the early 1800s. And when there was a recipe in it, it did say the taco. And that original recipe had corn tortilla filled with like a chile verde filling.

[Jane Lindholm]

How did tacos come to the United States if they originated in Mexico?

[Edgar Rico]

Well, I would say tacos originally came in California through the miners that were mining there. They took that same idea. We can have tacos here too, as we're working on these mines, because at that time also too, California was Mexico.

[Jane Lindholm]

Large parts of the western United States used to be part of Mexico. This includes California, Texas, New Mexico, Utah, Nevada, and parts of Colorado, Oklahoma, Kansas and Wyoming. They became a part of the United States after the Mexican American War in 1848. But it wasn't until more than 100 years later, in the 1960s, that tacos became really, really popular all over the.

[Edgar Rico]

U.S. tacos in particularly spread like wildfire. And the idea of tacos became a mainstream revolution throughout the US Was actually in a little town in San Bernardino, the same town actually where another iconic brand that we all probably know called McDonald's started. And there was a guy there named Glenn Bell, AKA the founder of Taco Bell. He originally had a fast food joint he used to sell a place called Bell's Burgers where he used to sell hamburgers. But as McDonald's was happening down the road, he quickly realized that maybe the hamburger was not the route that he should take. And ironically enough, there was a place very close to him, a world famous now place in taco history called Mitla Cafe. They were making a little hard shell taco where they would fry corn tortilla, they would put a little bit of ground beef, shredded lettuce, a little tomato, a little bit of shredded cheese on top. And Glen Bell used to eat these things every night and would try and take a crack at figuring out how to, how to make this. And eventually I guess the owner of Mita Cafe invited him into the kitchen one day and was like, hey, I'm going to show you how you. Because you keep coming in here every day and eating these things. And eventually he learned how to do it. And then Mr. Glen Bell decided to take this to his own establishment and make a fast food restaurant called Taco Bell that we all know. But yeah, tacos, after Glen Bell got his hands on it would never be the same.

[Alani]

Hi, my name's Connor, I'm eight years old. I live in Winnipeg, Manitoba. And my question is why are there soft shells and hard shells and what are they made of?

[Jane Lindholm]

This has to do with the crispiness of the tortilla. The crispy fried tortillas make for hard shell tacos you find at fast food chains like Taco Bell and in the grocery store.

[Edgar Rico]

I think the idea for what most Americans think of tacos is actually that hard shell taco, but you know, it's the evolution of the taco.

[Jane Lindholm]

You know, Edgar says those hard shell tacos are an American invention. Traditionally in Mexico, tortillas tend to be soft. We'll talk more about that in a little bit. But food is fascinating because it's always changing and Reflecting how our cultures are changing as people move from one place to another. They bring the foods that they grew up with. But sometimes you have to switch things up a bit and use ingredients that are more easily available where you are now. Sometimes, especially if you open up a restaurant, you make changes to make the dish more approachable to local customers. Think about other foods that are really popular in the United States that originated elsewhere, like pizza. People coming into the United States as immigrants brought along their favorite regional dishes, and then they blended them with the ingredients, like tomatoes, that were available in their new home. And so our food is always changing and adapting. Sarah says tacos followed a similar path.

[Sarah Martin Biggie]

Taco Tuesday, that never used to be a thing. There's different foods feel very unfamiliar or scary, but then they become sort of the fabric of that culture over time. For a while, Japanese food, Korean food, there was a stigma around them, and the same thing with Mexican food. And now tacos are a part of that culture. It's burgers, pizza, and tacos. It's now in the American lexicon of food, which is kind of crazy.

[Jane Lindholm]

Now that we're up to the present day, let's talk about what a taco is and isn't. Turns out there's a lot of debate.

[Alani]

My name is Cashin, and I'm six years old, and I live in Kalamazoo, Michigan, and I am in first grade. And why do tacos have sauce?

[Edgar Rico]

To make them more delicious, more than anything. If we're looking at, like, a basic street taco, in essence, the foundation of it is the tortilla, your filling. And it doesn't always necessarily have to be meat. It can be vegetables. One of my favorite tacos in the world is actually my mom's Rajas con crema, which is a simple dish of roasted chilies with a little bit of cheese and, like, a little bit of heavy cream all mixed together. It's delicious. But when you're adding your salsa to your taco, that, for me, it's the part that kind of adds that little magic, adds that little bit of jazz to your taco. And it's nice because, you know, most taquerias that you go to, they will let you kind of choose whether it's how spicy do you want it? Do you like salsas that are a little more bold and smokiness, or do you want something that's a lot fresher, like an avocado salsa or like a guacamole, per se? That's just the personalization, the customization of the taco for you. That's kind of the fun part for me about the tacos.

[Sarah Martin Biggie]

And so some people don't even put salsa on there. Like, it's a choose their own adventure. If you're like, I'm a meat and potatoes guy and I just want the tortilla, the meat, maybe some onions on top of it, like, you can do that too. You won't be judged for the way that you build your taco, because it is a very personal thing. So go for it. We're here to support it. We're here to support the taco in every shape and form.

[Jane Lindholm]

So the key is we listen and we don't judge.

[Alani]

Hi, my name is Leah, I'm five years old and I live in Winnipeg, Manitoba. What kind of meat do you put in tacos?

[Jane Lindholm]

Now, you both said you can have whatever you want in your taco, but can you list off some of the popular meats and types of meats and ways that meat is cooked in tacos just to start getting our mouths watering?

[Edgar Rico]

Absolutely. So I would say in America, the four most popular. I feel like meats ordered on a taco, one of them is probably going to be the one I feel like that everyone knows which is carne asada. Carne asada is traditionally a northern style of making meat in which people in the north of Mexico will just get some really great beef and they'll just literally simply marinate it, hit it with a little salt, and grill it over an open fire, chop it up, put it onto a tortilla, and voila, carne asada taco. And then another taco style that has a lot of cool history to it is the al pastor taco. The al pastor taco means the shepherd's taco. And this was actually an invention that was brought over by the Lebanese people who immigrated over to Mexico in the late 1800s. They actually used to make a little shawarma, but then, you know, a lot of the clientele of Mexican people were there, wanted something a little more spicy, and they didn't actually like lamb as much, so they wanted to maybe use another protein that was more suitable for their palate. So they transitioned to pork. Eventually that evolved to where we've gotten now to the modern day al pastor taco, which then somehow, I don't know where exactly in the history, but pineapple was added to the taco and it has become an iconic street food all throughout Mexico and the US and then I would say the third most popular style is probably going to be carnitas. Carnitas is also a regional style of taco making or meat making, typically found in the state of Michoacan. And with that you take just pork, literally tender and falling off the bone. And the last one, I would say also is barbacoa. That's another very, very popular style of meat making that's also traditionally found in the north, but specifically comes from a place called Texcoco. You build a big fire pit underneath the earth, at least like 5 to 6ft generally is what you want to give yourself. But after you build this hole, you then line it with a bunch of bricks and then you make a big, big, big fire. And then after that fire burns down and you just have a bed of embers, you then add in your pot with your meat in it and then you bury it and you let it cook overnight for about 10 to 12 hours. And the next day you have a delicious, delicious treat in front of you, which is called barbacoa.

[Jane Lindholm]

But if you're not a big lover of meat, there are still lots of different types of tacos you might really like. In coastal regions of Mexico, for example, you'll find fish and seafood tacos. And there are also many types of tacos that are vegetarian.

[Sarah Martin Biggie]

There's something called hoja santa, which is this sort of like anise y kind of smoky herb that grows that they use a lot. There's a lot of different applications like with squash, with pumpkins, with mushrooms. And thinking about like the pre Hispanic side of Mexico, there were a lot more vegetable forward dishes. So for any vegetarians or vegans out there, you can make still a really beautiful and delicious taco.

[Jane Lindholm]

Yum. I am salivating just hearing about all of these delicious taco types. Coming up, we'll talk about why tortillas, and especially corn tortillas are such an important part of Mexican cuisine. Stay tuned. I'm Jane Lindholm. Today on but why we're talking all things tacos. We've learned about some of the most popular meat based taco fillings. Carne asada al pastor, carnitas and barbacoa. We've also talked about salsa, the sauce. But if we're talking about tacos, we have to talk about the tortilla. After all, the tortilla is what holds everything together. I mentioned earlier that traditionally in Mexico, tortillas are soft and round and made with flour or corn. But people have been making tortillas with corn for much longer than with flour. And that's because corn is a native vegetable to Mexico, whereas wheat which is what flour is made of isn't. At Nixta Taqueria, where our guests Edgar Rico and Sara Martinbighi work, they are sticking with corn.

[Sarah Martin Biggie]

There's a phrase called sin mais no ha pais, which means without corn, there's, you know, there's not a country. There's not a culture. It's a huge part of the culture in Mexico. It's part of the DNA, they said that was part of the first civilizations there. It's how it sustained them.

[Jane Lindholm]

Sin mais no hay pais. Without corn, there's no country.

[Edgar Rico]

Wow.

[Jane Lindholm]

That gives you a sense of how important corn is to Mexican culture and cuisine. But for corn to become a turkey, it first needs to go through an ancient process called nixtamalization. That's a really big word.

[Edgar Rico]

Nixtamalization is a word that sounds very daunting, but it's just a word for essentially the signs and the magic of what happens to corn for you to create a corn tortilla. You can't have corn tortilla without nixtamazing corn. And the process in which you break down this corn to get you a corn tortilla starts with you getting some really beautiful dried corn, preferably heirloom.

[Jane Lindholm]

And heirloom basically means an older species or genus or type of vegetable or an animal or a plant.

[Edgar Rico]

Absolutely, yeah. So in Mexico specifically, There are over 30 varieties of corn that are native to Mexico, and they can come in all sorts of different vast colors, from green, purple, red. You then add this corn to some water that's boiling, and inside of this water, you're going to add the secret magical ingredient called cal. Cal essentially is a derivative of limestone, and you're going to actually let it cook for about 30 to 45 minutes. And then after cooking the corn in the boiling water, you actually let it sit. You let it sit overnight and soak in this solution for about 10 to 12 hours. And that's as it's soaking. The magic of nixtamalization is happening, and essentially, with nixtamalization, it's going to help break down this corn for you to actually be able to digest it better.

[Jane Lindholm]

The human body isn't very good at digesting the outer layer of a corn kernel, which is why, if you have corn on the cob for dinner, it'll mostly pass right through your digestive system untouched, which you already know if you listen to our recent poop episode. But nixtamalization changes the chemical structure of the corn and makes it easier for our bodies to digest.

[Edgar Rico]

So the magic of nixtamalization helps Unlock corn's fullest potential. So it unlocks all the natural nutrients that are in within corn. It also activates the natural glutens and starches that are within the corn. For you to be able to help make a corn tortilla, in essence, that is kind of the magic of how nixtamalization works and why it's a really special thing to do. But this thing also is thousands of thousands of years old, and it's something that we still get to carry on today and doing this tradition of making tortillas. And it's a cool way to kind of almost kind of look back into the past in a way.

[Sarah Martin Biggie]

And it's. It's a slow food. It's about 14 to 15 hours from start to finish, from the time you take the corn, the time you're cooking it, to the time it sits overnight for about 10 hours till the following morning when we actually grind the corn in a masa. So we have something inside our restaurant called a molino, which is a wet mill. So it is where you take two wheels, and they're made out of volcanic stones with different etchings in there. So as the corn is going through there, it's slowly grinding against each other and making that masa.

[Jane Lindholm]

Masa, by the way, is dough that's made from corn.

[Sarah Martin Biggie]

So it takes a lot of time, a lot of skill. The amount of love that goes into it is. It's not a like one hour thing. You have to really take the time and put some care into it.

[Jane Lindholm]

And Sarah says this love and care begins on the farm. A lot of farmers who choose to grow heirloom varieties of corn do it because they care deeply about the land they cultivate.

[Alani]

My name is Faye. I'm six years old and I live in Alameda, California. Why is corn different colors? My name is Eve. I am seven years old. I live in New York. Why are some corn kernels yellow and some white?

[Jane Lindholm]

You mentioned corn can come in many different colors. Why does it come in different colors?

[Edgar Rico]

There's different climates and different factors that play into why corn ends up becoming different colors. So one of them is, you know, just the natural genetics of some of these corns, like those 30 varieties are naturally just have these colors that they've been growing in that fashion for many years. But the climate will take a big part in that too. So, you know, maybe some climates are a little wetter and you're going to have just a different hue in terms of the color of the corn, but also where it's grown. Even I mean, we happen to grow corn right in our backyard, actually, because we have a big farm in our backyard. And last year we noticed that some of the corn, because we grew two different varieties. But on this border of where we were growing some of this purple corn and some of this red corn, some of that corn started fusing together. Because the way corn releases its seeds is through the. The top. When you see like these little kind of like hairs of corn, you'll see that that's where some of the seeds get released into the air. Sometimes as it's landing on these silks of corn, they'll just kind of latch onto it and. And then it'll start taking fold into the corn and you'll get these really beautiful kind of cross color of corn that'll be purple and yellow, or it might be like the one that we had that was purple and pink.

[Jane Lindholm]

Learning about how tortillas are made was making me hungry. So I asked Edgar to show me how they do it at Nixta.

[Edgar Rico]

We are here in the Nixa Pacoria kitchen about to make some tortillas. And what you're hearing right now is our corn being mixed up. It's been ground up. We're adding a little bit of salt to it just to give it a little bit of flavor. I'll let you first. Deal. So it's gonna feel kind of like play doh. Exactly. That's exactly what I always tell people. You're gonna feel like a light moisture in your hand as you're kind of moving it around your hands. And yeah, the texture is very much so. Like play doh. And then this one in particular, we're adding a little bit of guajillo chili so we can get a really nice bright red bean and also a little bit of flavor. And at this point, we are ready to make a corn tortilla. And with this machine, it's going to help roll your corn. It's going to roll it onto this roller. And what we're looking for is for it to catch fully, like so you kind of see how that's catching right now. That's exactly what we're looking for for. And now we're going to start bringing them out like so. And then it has three different layers where we're going to cook our corn tortilla. So this one on the top is going to be your lowest temperature. The middle is going to have the medium heat, and the bottom is going to have the highest heat ratio. Boom. It's gonna go through the bottom, and then it's gonna come out through here on the bottom.

[Jane Lindholm]

That's now a cooked tortilla.

[Edgar Rico]

Yeah.

[Katie]

Cool.

[Edgar Rico]

Eat it.

[Jane Lindholm]

Really delicious.

[Edgar Rico]

You definitely taste that flavor. It's so much different than a store bought corn tortilla for sure. You get like all those really nice earthy notes and that. They're nice and soft and pillowy.

[Katie]

They're really lovely.

[Jane Lindholm]

Edgar told me they make over a thousand tortillas every day at Nixta Taqueria. We're going to post some videos from Nixta's Kitchen on our Instagram page, but whykids so you can watch Edgar make a fresh tortilla too. Has your idea of a perfect taco changed at all listening to this episode? What type of taco are you most excited to try next? We'd love to know, but here's a really controversial question we have for you. Is a taco a sandwich? What do you think? Have your adult record a video of you telling us whether you think a taco counts as a sandwich and why or why not. We'll share videos on our Instagram and YouTube pages. You can get an adult to help you see them thanks to Edgar Rico and Sarah Mardan Biggi of Nixta Taqueria in Austin, Texas. It was so cool to visit their restaurant. That's it for this episode. If you have a question about anything, have an adult record you asking it. It's easy to do on a smartphone using an app like Voice Memos. Then have your adult email it to questionsutwhykids.org but why is produced by Melody Beaudet, Sarah Bake and me, Jane Lindholm at Vermont Public and distributed by PRX. Our video producer is Joey Palumbo. Check out our YouTube series but why Bites. We put out a short bite sized video episode every other Friday. Our theme music is by Luke Reynolds. We'll be back in two weeks with an all new episode. Until then, stay curious and hungry.

[Edgar Rico]

From prx.