Clotheshorse with Amanda Lee McCarty Episode 214: Sewing is an Act of Self-Determination (Part 1) with Ruby of Spokes & Stitches Release Date: October 14, 2024
Introduction
In Episode 214 of Clotheshorse with Amanda Lee McCarty, host Amanda Lee McCarty engages in an in-depth conversation with Ruby Gertz of Spokes & Stitches. The discussion delves into the multifaceted world of sewing, exploring its history, current barriers, and the profound personal and societal implications of this craft. This episode, the first part of a series, lays the foundation for understanding why sewing remains a powerful act of self-determination in today’s fast-paced, mass-produced fashion landscape.
1. The Decline of Home Sewing and Rise of Mass Production
Historical Context
Amanda and Ruby begin by tracing the history of mass-produced clothing, highlighting its inception during the American Civil War when the Union Army required a large quantity of uniforms quickly and cost-effectively. This shift marked the transition from custom-made garments by military tailors to standardized sizes (Small, Medium, Large) produced in factories.
Key Insights:
- Military Influence: The military’s need for rapid and affordable uniform production was a pivotal moment in the democratization of clothing.
- Initial Resistance: Early mass-produced clothing, especially women’s wear, was met with resistance as it was perceived as inferior and less aesthetically pleasing compared to custom-made garments.
Notable Quote:
“It was good enough and functional. Things were not as finessed and detailed as they could have been. Right.” – Amanda Lee McCarty [16:12]
2. Socioeconomic Shifts and the Stigmatization of Sewing
Economic Factors
The conversation transitions to the economic factors that led to the decline of home sewing. Post-World War II economic expansion and the Reagan-era policies in the 1980s significantly impacted home economics education, reducing accessibility to sewing skills.
Barriers Identified:
- Education Cuts: Reduction of home economics programs in schools diminished formal sewing education.
- Industrialization: Move towards factory-produced clothing made sewing a less necessary skill.
- Union Busting: The decline of textile unions and the outsourcing of manufacturing overseas decreased domestic sewing opportunities.
Cultural Shifts
Ruby discusses how societal perceptions shifted, especially with second-wave feminism, where sewing and other domestic skills were often undervalued, reinforcing class and gender divides.
Notable Quote:
“There are cost and time barriers, among many other barriers that keep people out of this movement because they think they can't afford to be a part of it.” – Ruby Gertz [35:27]
3. Modern Barriers to Sewing
Financial and Time Constraints
Sewing today is often seen as a luxury hobby rather than a necessity. The high costs of materials and the significant time investment required make it inaccessible for many, particularly those in lower-income brackets.
Space Limitations
Amanda and Ruby highlight the practical challenges of sewing, such as the need for ample workspace and the bulky nature of sewing machines, which are increasingly rare in modern households.
Accessibility Issues
Sewing can be physically demanding, requiring fine motor skills and being strenuous on the eyes and back. Although modifications exist, they are not widely accessible, further limiting who can engage in sewing.
Notable Quote:
“Time, I think more than ever is what keeps people from sewing. It’s what keeps people from cooking. It’s what keeps people from being able to really live a more sustainable way of life.” – Ruby Gertz [38:05]
4. The Illusion of Affordable Clothing
Cost Analysis
The discussion addresses the deceptive pricing of mass-produced clothing. Fabric costs alone can make individually sewn garments more expensive than their store-bought counterparts, undermining the economic feasibility of sewing as a mass solution.
Fabric Sourcing Challenges
Amanda elaborates on the exorbitant prices of quality fabrics, which can range from $1 to $50 per yard. Additionally, the lack of seam allowances in modern garments eliminates the possibility for easy alterations, forcing a reliance on precisely fitting sizes.
Notable Quote:
“The pricing of clothing that we're offered right now is an illusion.” – Ruby Gertz [72:33]
5. Sourcing Affordable and Sustainable Fabric
Alternative Fabric Sources
To combat high fabric costs, Ruby suggests exploring secondhand options, such as fabric jobbers like Jo Mart, Creative Reuse Centers, and fabric swaps. These avenues offer pre-consumer textile waste and dead stock fabrics at significantly reduced prices.
Practical Tips:
- Burn Testing: Ruby advises conducting burn tests to determine fabric composition when labels are unavailable.
- Local Shops: Utilizing local textile recycling organizations and auction sites can yield affordable and unique fabric finds.
Notable Quote:
“There are tech fabric stores that are called jobbers, and those are places that sell primarily what’s called dead stock.” – Amanda Lee McCarty [75:27]
6. Personal Experiences and Encouragement
Amanda’s Journey
Amanda shares her personal experiences teaching sewing and the realization of how complex and time-consuming custom sewing can be. She emphasizes the importance of patience, continuous practice, and the emotional fulfillment derived from creating one’s own garments.
Ruby’s Insights
Ruby highlights the psychological barriers, such as imposter syndrome, that deter many from embracing sewing. She encourages sewists to celebrate their creations and recognize the craftsmanship involved, contrasting it with the often impersonal nature of mass-produced clothing.
Notable Quotes:
“Once you develop a baseline skill set, it’s very fulfilling to sew your own clothes. It feels like a statement of autonomy and self-determination.” – Amanda Lee McCarty [96:07]
“Sewing your own clothes and being like, oh, my gosh, how could a dress be $5 when it took me all this time? But these are, like, good things for us to learn.” – Ruby Gertz [56:36]
7. Overcoming Barriers and Getting Started
Educational Resources
Amanda provides practical advice for beginners interested in sewing:
- Local Classes: Enroll in local sewing schools, community colleges, or craft centers.
- Private Lessons: Consider one-on-one instruction for personalized learning.
- Online Tutorials: Utilize platforms like YouTube for self-paced learning and troubleshooting.
Finding Time and Space
She suggests creative solutions for limited spaces, such as using secondhand ping pong tables as cutting surfaces and repurposing bedrooms or living areas for sewing projects.
Encouragement to Persist
Both Amanda and Ruby stress the importance of perseverance, reminding listeners that mistakes are part of the learning process and that the rewards of sewing—both personal and environmental—are well worth the effort.
Notable Quote:
“Sewing is an ongoing lesson in patience. Even as a professional, I make mistakes all the time.” – Amanda Lee McCarty [49:36]
Conclusion and Looking Ahead
Amanda wraps up the episode by acknowledging the challenges discussed but emphasizes the profound benefits of sewing as an act of self-determination. She hints at future episodes focusing on inclusivity in sewing and further strategies to make sewing more accessible and community-driven.
Final Thoughts:
- Empowerment: Sewing empowers individuals to take control of their wardrobe and express their unique style.
- Sustainability: Embracing sewing can lead to more sustainable fashion practices, reducing reliance on fast fashion.
Notable Quote:
“Once again, sewing your own clothes and being like, oh, my gosh, how could a dress be $5 when it took me all this time? But these are, like, good things for us to learn.” – Ruby Gertz [56:36]
Key Takeaways
- Sewing as Empowerment: Beyond being a practical skill, sewing serves as a means of self-expression and autonomy.
- Accessibility Issues: High costs, time constraints, and lack of education significantly limit who can engage in sewing today.
- Sustainable Fashion: Sewing promotes sustainability by encouraging the creation and repair of garments, challenging the disposability culture of fast fashion.
- Community and Education: Building supportive communities and expanding educational opportunities are crucial for making sewing more inclusive and accessible.
For more insights and practical sewing advice, stay tuned for Part 2 of this series, where Amanda and Ruby will continue their exploration into making sewing a more inclusive and accessible craft for everyone.