Clotheshorse with Amanda Lee McCarty: Episode 224 Summary

Title: Slow Fashion & Inclusivity with Itohan and Marlee
Release Date: January 28, 2025
Host: Amanda Lee McCarty

In Episode 224 of Clotheshorse with Amanda Lee McCarty, host Amanda delves deep into the realms of slow fashion and inclusivity, engaging in insightful conversations with two pivotal figures in the movement: Itoha Essen Mota of HNI Collective and Marlee Rosen, a personal style coach and host of the podcast Style Me Slowly. This episode not only highlights the challenges and misconceptions surrounding slow fashion but also offers actionable strategies to promote and support size-inclusive, sustainable fashion brands.

1. Introduction and Context

Amanda opens the episode by reflecting on her recent hectic week and introduces the upcoming panel discussion on slow fashion and inclusivity. She highlights the significance of her guests' work in promoting sustainable and size-inclusive fashion, setting the stage for meaningful discussions ahead.

“If you wear clothes, you need to listen to Clotheshorse.” – Elise

2. Conversation with Itoha Essen Mota (00:19 - 59:33)

a. Background and Motivation

Itoha shares her journey from working in apparel product development to founding HNI Collective in Philadelphia. Driven by personal challenges in finding quality, size-inclusive clothing, she sought to create an agency that makes sustainable fashion accessible to all body types.

“I was doing this work, making clothes for brands for several years, and I was still struggling to find quality things that fit.” [20:36]

b. Challenges in Size Inclusivity

The discussion delves into the technical and financial hurdles brands face when expanding their size ranges. Itoha explains that simply grading up existing patterns often leads to poor fits, especially for larger sizes, which can alienate consumers and harm a brand’s reputation.

“It takes a lot of time and effort to actually make things fit.” [27:23]

c. Misconceptions about Slow Fashion

Amanda and Itoha tackle the myths that sustainable fashion is only for the wealthy or excludes plus-size individuals. They emphasize that slow fashion practices like mending, thrifting, and mindful consumption are accessible to everyone, regardless of budget.

“There are many ways that you can be a part of the slow fashion movement that have nothing to do with it buying expensive clothing.” [21:08]

d. Technical Aspects of Inclusive Pattern Making

Itoha demystifies the process of creating patterns for diverse sizes, highlighting the importance of working with multiple size standards from the outset rather than solely grading up from a single size.

“Instead of trying to have one medium and then try to grade it to a 4X, you really should be doing is having your medium and then having your 2-3x mannequin or model.” [30:54]

e. Encouraging Support for Inclusive Brands

The conversation underscores the significance of supporting niche, size-inclusive brands through word-of-mouth, social media engagement, and purchasing from these brands to ensure their sustainability and growth.

“If you share someone's post, it feels like it's nothing. But more eyes is potentially more money.” [42:10]

3. Conversation with Marlee Rosen (59:33 - 99:01)

a. Introduction and Background

Marlee introduces herself as a style coach dedicated to sustainable, size-inclusive fashion. She discusses her transition from one-on-one coaching to hosting her podcast, Style Me Slowly, aiming to amplify the voices of sustainable fashion brands.

“I realized I enjoyed doing the podcast. I actually took a course that was specifically for me to go on podcasts and pitch my style coaching.” [84:34]

b. Helping Clients Adopt Slow Fashion

Marlee emphasizes the personalized approach she takes with her clients, deeply understanding their lifestyles and preferences before curating sustainable wardrobe choices that resonate with their individual styles.

“I spend a lot of time getting to know them on a very personal level who they are just as a human.” [68:32]

c. Challenges in Personal Style

Reflecting on the impact of media and societal norms, Marlee discusses how traditional fashion rules can stifle personal expression. She advocates for clients to embrace their unique preferences, free from external pressures.

“It's okay to know what you don't like.” [75:52]

d. Supporting Sustainable Diverse Brands

Marlee highlights the scarcity of size-inclusive brands that cater to diverse aesthetics beyond the typical “slow fashion” look. She shares her strategies for discovering and promoting these brands, such as extensive social media research and active community engagement.

“I truly have yet to have a client who has asked me to find a thing, and I have not been able to find it from a brand that is ethical, sustainable and makes their size.” [80:14]

e. Strategies to Support Brands

The discussion moves to practical ways listeners can support sustainable, size-inclusive brands. Marlee advises documenting personal style preferences, supporting brands through social media engagement, and encouraging friends and family to explore and purchase from these brands.

“Share about that brand, share when they have a new release, share when they have a new drop.” [87:02]

4. Conclusion and Call to Action

Amanda wraps up the episode by reflecting on the systemic challenges facing large corporations like Target, which often engage in performative activism while undermining genuine inclusivity and sustainability efforts. She contrasts this with the dedicated work of small businesses and the importance of supporting them through mindful consumption and community engagement.

“Let’s support these brands. This is what works for Target. This is what made people in the long term want to come and fight with me on the Internet about Target today.” [89:22]

Amanda encourages listeners to adopt slow fashion practices, support inclusive brands, and engage actively with sustainable communities to foster meaningful change within the fashion industry.

Notable Quotes:

• “Slow fashion is not only to throw out everything you have and buy organic cotton clothing, it's keeping the shit you like for as long as possible.” – Itoha Essen Mota [49:58]

• “Never underestimate the power of just existing and being vocal on what you want.” – Itoha Essen Mota [56:09]

• “Document your own outfits… make note of what you do and don't like.” – Marlee Rosen [93:45]

• “Word of mouth is so impactful for these brands.” – Marlee Rosen [87:02]

Final Thoughts:

Episode 224 serves as a compelling exploration of slow fashion and inclusivity, highlighting both the obstacles and the innovative solutions spearheaded by individuals like Itoha and Marlee. Amanda effectively underscores the necessity of supporting small, ethical brands to counterbalance the pervasive influence of fast fashion giants. Listeners are left with practical advice and a renewed sense of purpose to contribute positively to the fashion industry’s evolution.