Clotheshorse with Amanda Lee McCarty
Episode 225: Slow Fashion & Inclusivity Round Table
Release Date: February 5, 2025

Introduction

In Episode 225 of Clotheshorse, host Amanda Lee McCarty engages in a profound roundtable discussion with a diverse panel of experts—Maggie Green, Etoha Asamoto, Marlee Rosen, Danelle Jagamin, and Nico Herzetti—to explore the intricate relationship between slow fashion and inclusivity. The conversation delves into the challenges slow fashion faces in becoming truly inclusive, the pitfalls of current marketing strategies, and actionable solutions to foster a more equitable fashion industry.

Defining Slow Fashion and Inclusivity

Amanda (00:37):
Amanda sets the stage by outlining the episode’s focus on slow fashion and its intersection with inclusivity. She emphasizes the need for slow fashion to transcend its current demographic limitations and become accessible to all, regardless of size, race, age, or socioeconomic status.

Danelle (02:21):
Danelle defines her involvement as the creator of the Plus Swap in Philadelphia, highlighting efforts to make slow fashion accessible and inclusive for plus-size individuals.

Marlee (03:33):
Marlee introduces herself as a style coach promoting sustainable, size-inclusive brands, reinforcing the importance of inclusivity in slow fashion.

Nico (03:50):
Nico, founder of Forea, underscores the necessity of helping plus-size and gender-expansive individuals build sustainable wardrobes they love, further cementing the episode’s inclusive focus.

Challenges with Inclusivity in Slow Fashion

Marketing Similarities with Fast Fashion

Amanda (01:02):
Amanda points out that many slow fashion brands inadvertently mimic fast fashion marketing strategies, targeting the same limited demographics without truly expanding their inclusivity.

Marlee (09:28):
Marlee observes that slow fashion often tries to lure fast fashion consumers by presenting itself as a "better" alternative, rather than redefining the fashion system to be more inclusive from the ground up.

Lack of Representation and Diversity

Amanda (06:08):
Amanda reflects on her personal journey, noting how slow fashion initially seemed exclusive to "thin, white, young, rich" women, and acknowledges the progress made while recognizing ongoing shortcomings.

Danelle (07:15):
Danelle expresses frustration over the underrepresentation of diverse bodies not just in fashion, but across essential areas like grocery stores, attributing this to deep-rooted societal hierarchies.

Marlee (09:28):
Marlee highlights that slow fashion’s marketing often mirrors fast fashion’s lack of diversity, thereby not addressing the needs of a broader audience.

Nico (14:05):
Nico explains the economic barriers small, inclusive brands face, such as high production costs and limited profit margins, which hinder their ability to scale and reach a diverse customer base.

Big Brands Struggling with Inclusivity

Examples: Anthropologie and Old Navy

Amanda (43:27):
Amanda shares her experiences with major brands like Anthropologie and Old Navy, illustrating how their attempts at inclusive sizing have often fallen short. She recounts how these brands initiated broad size expansions with significant marketing budgets but ultimately scaled back when sales didn’t meet expectations.

Danelle (43:34):
Danelle criticizes these brands for their superficial efforts, arguing that true inclusivity requires sustained commitment beyond initial marketing pushes.

Brenda (33:41) & Amanda (43:27):
The discussion highlights how large brands’ failure to maintain inclusive practices results in distrust and disenfranchisement among consumers seeking genuine inclusivity.

Economic and Production Challenges for Inclusive Slow Fashion Brands

Nico (14:50):
Nico delves into the financial constraints small brands face, particularly those that prioritize sustainable and inclusive practices. He notes that using eco-friendly materials often comes with higher costs, making it difficult for small businesses to compete with fast fashion on price and volume.

Etoha (39:33):
Etoha confirms that producing inclusive sizing is both expensive and risky, paralleling the inherent challenges of manufacturing any clothing line.

Danelle (39:49):
Danelle adds that some founders fail to understand the business operations deeply enough to optimize and leverage their customer base for sustainable growth.

Overconsumption within Slow Fashion

Marlee (53:02):
Marlee raises concerns about overconsumption within the slow fashion community, where consumers may overinvest in limited pieces, undermining the movement’s sustainability goals.

Amanda (53:02):
Amanda echoes these concerns, highlighting the anxiety and environmental impact of consumers hoarding clothes even from sustainable brands.

H (56:27):
H introduces the concept of “under enjoyment,” suggesting that overconsumption stems from a lack of genuine satisfaction with purchases, rather than the number of items owned.

Strategies to Support Inclusive Slow Fashion

Advocacy and Promotion

Marlee (80:48):
Marlee emphasizes the importance of advocacy, encouraging listeners to promote inclusive slow fashion brands by sharing them on social media and supporting them through word-of-mouth marketing.

Etoha (88:09):
Etoha advises actively supporting brands through wearing, reviewing, and sharing their products, as well as utilizing thrift and vintage stores to expand sustainable options.

Purchasing Strategies

Amanda (90:24):
Amanda suggests participating in brand contests, sharing favorite brands on social platforms, and engaging with brands through actions like pinning on Pinterest to boost their visibility.

Danelle (85:11):
Danelle recommends wearing purchased clothes regularly to avoid them becoming mere marketing tools and to truly support brands by integrating their products into daily life.

Maggie (80:33):
Maggie advocates for embracing personal style and making intentional purchases that reflect individual values, thereby reducing the need for excessive consumption.

Investing in Quality

Marlee (47:59):
Marlee proposes a model where consumers can support brands even after making their initial purchase by gifting items to others, thereby extending the brand’s reach without overconsumption.

Danelle (51:37):
Danelle highlights the importance of investing in quality pieces that last longer, encouraging thoughtful consumption over impulsive buying.

The Political Nature of Slow Fashion

Amanda (94:08):
Amanda passionately argues that slow fashion is inherently political, intertwining with broader issues like sustainability, workers' rights, and social equity. She contends that every action in slow fashion—from mending clothes to resisting consumerist pressures—is a form of political activism.

Maggie (65:58) & Brenda (93:54):
Maggie and Brenda reinforce the idea that slow fashion challenges existing socio-political structures, advocating for a more inclusive and equitable industry. They discuss the backlash against Diversity, Equity, and Inclusion (DEI) initiatives, framing slow fashion as a counter-movement to oppressive systems.

Etoha (89:00) & Amanda (96:27):
They highlight how personal experiences and societal expectations shape fashion choices, further embedding slow fashion within political discourse. Amanda emphasizes that supporting slow fashion is a way to resist harmful industry practices and promote positive change.

Conclusion and Future Directions

Amanda wraps up the episode by reiterating the importance of slow fashion as a radical and revolutionary movement. She encourages listeners to support inclusive brands through various means, emphasizing that every small action contributes to broader systemic change. The panel agrees that while progress has been made, there is still a long way to go in making slow fashion truly inclusive and accessible to all. They conclude with a hopeful outlook, believing in the power of community and sustained effort to transform the fashion industry.

Amanda (93:52):
Amanda reflects on the episode as the beginning of an ongoing conversation about inclusivity in slow fashion, promising to revisit the topic from different angles in the future.

Brenda (94:04):
Brenda echoes the sentiment, acknowledging the revolutionary nature of their discussions and the importance of continued advocacy.

Notable Quotes

• Amanda (00:37):
  “Slow fashion has to become a way of life for everyone, regardless of any of the other adjectives about them.”

• Danelle (07:15):
  “We're just underrepresented across the board. Fashion is further up on the hierarchy of needs than some of the other places where we should be seeing fat bodies and diverse bodies.”

• Marlee (09:28):
  “Instead of saying, like, hey, we're for more. We're for larger groups of people, we're for more people, I think sometimes brands want to say we're just fast fashion, but better.”

• Nico (14:05):
  “Sustainability has a higher cost than things that are less sustainable. The economy of scale is not on your side as a small business.”

• Etoha (39:33):
  “Is it expensive and risky to make clothes for plus sizes? Yes. Is it expensive and risky to make clothes period? Yes.”

• Amanda (43:27):
  “Brands are not forward thinking ever. They're always in this exact time period.”

• Brenda (93:44):
  “Clotheshorse slogans were personal is political.”

• Amanda (96:27):
  “Every action in slow fashion is a form of political activism.”

Supporting Inclusive Slow Fashion

As the discussion concludes, Amanda and her guests offer practical advice for listeners to support inclusive slow fashion:

1. Promote and Advocate: Share favorite brands on social media, participate in brand contests, and recommend sustainable brands to friends and family.

2. Buy Thoughtfully: Invest in high-quality pieces that last, avoid overconsumption, and embrace personal style to reduce the need for excessive purchases.

3. Engage with the Community: Attend clothing swaps, support thrift and vintage stores, and participate in community events that promote sustainable and inclusive fashion.

4. Educate and Reflect: Learn about the production processes, support brands that align with your values, and engage in conversations that challenge the status quo of the fashion industry.

Final Thoughts

Episode 225 of Clotheshorse serves as a critical examination of slow fashion's current state and its battle for inclusivity. Through insightful dialogue and shared experiences, Amanda and her guests illuminate the systemic barriers that hinder true inclusivity in the fashion industry. The episode not only highlights the challenges but also empowers listeners with strategies to support and advocate for a more sustainable and equitable fashion future. As Amanda aptly puts it, "All the things you are doing that seem small, sort of minor in their impact are actually wildly radical and revolutionary."

For more insights and ongoing discussions on slow fashion and inclusivity, follow Amanda Lee McCarty and her guests on their respective social media platforms and stay tuned for future episodes of Clotheshorse.