Clotheshorse with Amanda Lee McCarty Episode Summary: "FROM THE DEPARTMENT: Secondhand News" (Part 1) Release Date: April 14, 2025

Introduction

In Episode 76 of The Department, hosts Amanda Lee McCarty and Kim delve into the enduring and evolving trend of secondhand fashion. Positioned as Part 1 of a two-part series, this episode explores the historical cycles of secondhand shopping, its resurgence in modern times, and the socio-economic forces shaping its trajectory. The conversation is rich with personal anecdotes, historical insights, and critical analysis of the secondhand fashion industry's impact on both consumers and the broader retail landscape.

Historical Overview of Secondhand Fashion

Early 20th Century Beginnings

Amanda and Kim trace the origins of secondhand shopping back to the early 1900s, highlighting how organizations like the Salvation Army and Goodwill transformed charity into a business model. Instead of giving away clothes for free, these organizations sold donated items, enabling middle-class individuals to participate in consumer culture while providing affordable options for those with lower incomes.

"Historian Susan Strasser told Jezebel, goodwill and the Salvation army offered poor people, not necessarily the poorest of the poor, a chance to participate in the developing consumer culture by being able to buy things that they would otherwise not be able to buy."
— Amanda Lee McCarty [07:04]

The Raccoon Fur Coat Fiasco (1920s-1950s)

A fascinating story unfolded in the 1920s when raccoon fur coats became a symbol of wealth and fashion among Ivy League students and celebrities like Rudolph Valentino. Amanda recounts how a surplus of these coats led to massive inventory storage, which only peaked in popularity before the Great Depression caused the trend to plummet.

"By one estimate, as many as two million fur coats moldered away in storehouses."
— Amanda Lee McCarty [46:07]

In the 1950s, Stanley Salzman and his wife Sue revitalized the trend by sourcing these surplus coats and marketing them as fashionable items, leading to a temporary boom in secondhand luxury fashion. However, the trend was short-lived as department stores flooded the market with replica coats, diluting the original appeal.

"Customers were preferring 40s and 50s clothing specifically. Once again, we're in the late 70s at this point."
— Amanda Lee McCarty [72:57]

Economic Influences on Secondhand Trends

1970s Economic Malaise and the Rise of Thrift Stores

The 1970s marked a significant turning point as economic challenges like stagflation—characterized by high inflation and unemployment—forced Americans to turn to secondhand shopping for affordability. Thrift stores expanded from volunteer-run spaces to fully staffed retail outlets, employing visual merchandising strategies to attract a broader middle-class audience.

"Thrift stores were also still at this point selling to cool young people who in the 70s were searching for 30s and 40s clothing."
— Amanda Lee McCarty [40:58]

Amanda draws parallels between the economic conditions of the 1970s and the early 2020s, noting similar patterns of thrift store expansion and the integration of secondhand sections within major department stores.

"Thrift stores are like, we're businesses. We're finding new ways to reach customers, too."
— Amanda Lee McCarty [80:34]

Modern Resale Platforms vs. Traditional Thrift Stores

Amanda contrasts traditional thrift stores with modern online resale platforms like Depop, Poshmark, Mercari, ThredUp, and The RealReal. While platforms that merely facilitate transactions without handling inventory (Depop, Poshmark, Mercari) are profitable, those that manage inventory (ThredUp, The RealReal) struggle due to logistical challenges and high operational costs.

"Depop, Poshmark and Mercari, they don't actually handle inventory. All they're really doing is making money off people using the platform."
— Amanda Lee McCarty [26:22]

Social and Cultural Impacts

Stigma and Evolution of Perceptions

Historically, secondhand shopping carried a stigma, often associated with poverty. Amanda shares personal experiences from high school where thrifted outfits were met with ridicule, reflecting broader societal attitudes that have slowly shifted over time.

"There has been this stigma against thrifting and secondhand shopping and that it was really just for like the poorest people. And that attitude may have begun in the early days of thrift stores."
— Amanda Lee McCarty [33:23]

Embracing Individuality and Creativity

Throughout different eras, secondhand shopping has been embraced by various subcultures as a means of expressing individuality and creativity. From the Beatniks and hippies of the 1960s to today's trendsetters exploring Y2K fashion, secondhand clothing serves as a canvas for personal style.

"Cheap Chic was a bible for young women looking to dress well for work and for social events while working within a budget."
— Amanda Lee McCarty [68:03]

Inclusivity and Safe Spaces

Thrift stores have historically served as safe spaces for marginalized communities, including the LGBTQ+ community during the Lavender Scare of the 1950s and 60s. As Amanda explains, these stores provided a refuge from hostile environments like mainstream department stores.

"Queer communities actually found themselves feeling safer in thrift stores and flea markets."
— Amanda Lee McCarty [57:51]

Economic and Environmental Considerations

Growth and Challenges of the Resale Market

The U.S. fashion resale market has seen explosive growth, doubling from $13.6 billion in 2018 to $28.1 billion in 2022, with predictions of reaching $32.3 billion in 2023. However, this growth is juxtaposed with challenges such as inventory management, quality control, and competition from fast fashion giants like Shein.

"The US fashion resale market grew from $13.6 billion in 2018... to $28.1 billion in 2022."
— Amanda Lee McCarty [21:19]

Waste and Sustainability Issues

Amanda highlights the environmental impact of secondhand fashion, particularly the disposal of unsold inventory by major players. Licensing agreements often result in unsold items being destroyed, adding to landfill waste.

"The supply chain shortages combined with extra income and time at home... now they have to destroy that inventory."
— Amanda Lee McCarty [17:10]

She also critiques the recycling claims of companies like Four Days, emphasizing that donated clothes often end up being resold or downcycled rather than genuinely recycled into new garments.

"If you are donating clothes and you want it to go to another person directly, then you probably need to either find a shelter or other organization in your area."
— Amanda Lee McCarty [38:20]

Future Outlook and Continuing Trends

Mainstream Integration and Corporate Involvement

By the late 1970s, secondhand shopping had become integrated into mainstream retail, with department stores like Macy's and Lord & Taylor featuring entire sections dedicated to pre-owned clothing. This trend continues today as major retailers launch their own resale platforms, seeking to capitalize on the burgeoning market.

"By the end of the 60s, we're kind of in the early years of skinny jeans, where only the most fashion forward people were wearing them."
— Amanda Lee McCarty [83:13]

Technological Enhancements and Market Saturation

The advent of online platforms has both democratized and complicated the secondhand market. While platforms like ThredUp and The RealReal offer wider access, logistical inefficiencies and market saturation pose significant challenges. Amanda predicts that the trend cycle of secondhand fashion is cyclical, with periods of rapid growth followed by market stabilization or decline as seen historically.

"We're still in the early days of how resale, secondhand resale specifically, can be successful on the Internet."
— Amanda Lee McCarty [27:34]

Cultural Reflection and Continuity

Amanda underscores that secondhand shopping is more than a mere trend; it reflects broader cultural and economic cycles. As history repeats itself, the motivations behind secondhand fashion—be it economic necessity, creative expression, or environmental consciousness—remain consistent, albeit manifested differently across generations.

"Secondhand is just one part of it. So also, we're gonna be talking about secondhand as a trend that is getting more and more media coverage, generating significant revenue, and impacting the retail sector of the economy."
— Amanda Lee McCarty [07:04]

Notable Quotes

• "If you are human and live in the world, you need to listen to Clotheshorse." – Individually Wrapped
  — Amanda Lee McCarty [Your money is as powerful as your vote!]

• "Cheap Chic wasn't about cheap stuff; it was about cultivating your unique personal style without falling into the designer dictatorship."
  — Amanda Lee McCarty [68:06]

• "Nobody knows better than you what you should wear or how you should look." – Cheap Chic
  — Amanda Lee McCarty [68:06]

• "People who wouldn't be caught dead in thrift shops before are competing with the lower socioeconomic group today."
  — Amanda Lee McCarty [40:58]

Conclusion

Part 1 of the Clotheshorse with Amanda Lee McCarty series provides an in-depth exploration of the secondhand fashion trend, tracing its historical roots, economic drivers, and cultural significance. Amanda and Kim effectively illustrate how secondhand shopping cycles through periods of popularity, driven by societal needs and economic conditions. As the second part of the series approaches, listeners can anticipate a continuation of this examination into the 1980s, 1990s, and beyond, further uncovering the complexities and future directions of the secondhand fashion industry.

Further Listening

Stay tuned for Part 2 of the series, where Amanda and Kim will continue their exploration of secondhand fashion from the 1980s to the present day, examining how nostalgia, corporate strategies, and evolving consumer behaviors shape the ongoing trend.