Clotheshorse with Amanda Lee McCarty: FROM THE DEPARTMENT: Secondhand News, Part 4 - The 2010s

Release Date: April 17, 2025

In Episode 79 of Clotheshorse with Amanda Lee McCarty, host Amanda Lee McCarty delves into the intricate landscape of secondhand fashion during the 2010s. Co-host Kim joins her to explore how economic shifts, cultural trends, and the rise of social media influenced the secondhand market, ultimately shaping contemporary fashion consumption.

1. Setting the Stage: Economic and Cultural Climate

Amanda and Kim begin by contextualizing the 2010s within the broader economic and cultural backdrop. The decade was marked by the lingering effects of the 2008 financial crisis, leading to a prolonged recession that significantly impacted consumer behavior and fashion trends.

Amanda (01:45):
"The 2010s began pretty badly. The economy was still struggling with the fallout of the 2008 financial crisis and the subsequent recession. Hiring was at a standstill, and consumer sentiment was at an all-time low."

The rise of the gig economy introduced a new form of employment characterized by flexibility but lacking in benefits and job security. This economic uncertainty fostered a "hustle culture," where millennials juggled multiple jobs to meet escalating living costs, including rent and student loans.

2. The Resurgence and Challenges of Secondhand Fashion

Against this economic backdrop, secondhand shopping emerged as a viable option for many. However, it faced stiff competition from fast fashion retailers and off-price stores like Target, Nordstrom Rack, Marshalls, and TJ Maxx, which offered affordable alternatives that overshadowed traditional thrift stores.

Kim (05:07):
"We actually talked about earlier in the series how there was a real shakeup in 2016. Everything just changed at that precipice."

The introduction of fast fashion brands brought clothing that was both trendy and inexpensive, making it difficult for thrift stores to compete on price. Additionally, the proliferation of dollar stores provided another affordable shopping avenue, further diminishing the appeal of secondhand stores.

3. Bed Bath and Beyond: A Case Study in Retail Decline

A significant highlight of the episode is the discussion on the decline and eventual closure of Bed Bath and Beyond, a retail giant synonymous with household goods. Amanda and Kim reflect on the store's strategy of allowing individual managers to select inventory, which led to inconsistent product quality and a disconnect with consumer expectations.

Amanda (10:00):
"They tried to get into a lot more private label stuff, marked them up really high, and sold via coupons. It somehow worked for Kohl's, but it was not working for Bed Bath and Beyond."

The over-inventory and misguided pricing strategies resulted in declining store traffic and empty aisles, signaling the end of an era for the once-popular retailer.

4. The Bedbug Panic: Impact on Secondhand Shopping

The 2010s also witnessed a widespread bedbug scare, which significantly deterred consumers from purchasing secondhand items. The fear of infestations made many hesitant to shop at thrift stores or purchase used clothing and furniture.

Kim (26:11):
"That actually really makes a lot of sense how those two elements that were like deeply seated in the consumer consciousness would really affect the sales."

Bedbugs became a recurring theme in media and personal anecdotes, heightening anxiety around secondhand shopping and further challenging the market's growth.

5. Street Style and the Social Media Revolution

A pivotal shift during the 2010s was the rise of street style photography and the influence of social media platforms like Instagram and Tumblr. These platforms democratized fashion, allowing everyday individuals to become style icons and trendsetters, thereby elevating the status of vintage and secondhand clothing.

Amanda (29:56):
"Street style photography has long been a part of fashion week, but it gained prestige and ubiquity in the 2010s thanks to the proliferation of social media."

Influential photographers like Bill Cunningham, Scott Schumann, and Tommy Ton captured the essence of street fashion, which often showcased a blend of high and low fashion elements. This movement fostered a culture where mixing vintage pieces with contemporary trends became the epitome of personal style.

6. Vintage as Luxury: Fast Fashion’s Appropriation

The 2010s saw vintage clothing transcend its niche status to become a luxury statement. High-end retailers and fast fashion brands began incorporating vintage aesthetics into their collections, often leading to the appropriation and replication of classic designs at lower price points.

Amanda (35:00):
"Seeing these mainstream megastars like Gwyneth Paltrow and Miley Cyrus wearing vintage gowns elevated vintage to the status of luxury."

Retailers like Nasty Gal capitalized on this trend by offering high-priced vintage drops alongside their affordable collections, catering to both affluent customers seeking exclusivity and budget-conscious shoppers looking for unique pieces. However, this strategy also led to price inflation in the vintage market, making true vintage items less accessible.

7. The Emergence of Cluttercore and Micro Trends

As the decade progressed, the fashion landscape became increasingly fragmented with the emergence of micro trends such as cluttercore, pleating a chaotic blend of colors, textures, and patterns. This aesthetic was a departure from the minimalist and normcore trends of the early 2010s, embracing maximalism influenced by varied vintage eras.

Amanda (51:22):
"Cluttercore is characterized by rainbow hues, mismatched textures, and a studied interest in vintage style. It's about mixing color and texture without worrying about eras or budgets."

Platforms like Tumblr and personal style blogs fueled these micro trends, allowing individuals to curate highly personalized fashion statements that often combined elements from different decades, reflecting a broader trend of nostalgic eclecticism.

8. Digital Transformation: Online Secondhand Platforms

The latter part of the decade witnessed the rise of online secondhand marketplaces such as Depop, Poshmark, Vinted, and The RealReal. These platforms revolutionized secondhand shopping by making it more accessible and mainstream, facilitating easier buying and selling of pre-owned items.

Amanda (64:22):
"It's easier than ever to shop secondhand, thanks to online platforms. We've seen live sales on Instagram, which are like modernized versions of QVC."

These digital transformations not only expanded the reach of secondhand shopping but also introduced new dynamics around pricing and authenticity, leading to debates within the community about ethical reselling and price gouging.

9. Ethical Debates and the Future of Secondhand Fashion

The episode culminates with a discussion on the ethical controversies surrounding secondhand fashion, particularly the pricing strategies employed by resellers. Amanda shares her personal experience of being falsely accused of unethical practices, highlighting the intense scrutiny and polarized opinions within the vintage community.

Amanda (69:43):
"Someone accused me of participating and encouraging genocide, which was a bit heavy-handed. It reminded me of what a messed-up place the Internet can be."

Despite these challenges, both hosts express optimism about the future of secondhand fashion, envisioning it becoming a normalized and respected aspect of everyday life. They advocate for the inherent value and sustainability of secondhand shopping, contrasting it with the declining quality of fast fashion offerings.

Kim (73:24):
"I think it's only going to become a bigger part of the culture at large because it's been adopted by so many more people and there's a lot less stigma against it."

Amanda echoes this sentiment, emphasizing the importance of secondhand fashion in providing durable and quality clothing alternatives, ultimately contributing to a more sustainable and inclusive fashion industry.

Conclusion: Navigating the Past and Future of Secondhand Fashion

As the episode wraps up, Amanda and Kim reflect on the transformative journey of secondhand fashion throughout the 2010s. They acknowledge the decade's role in shaping contemporary fashion norms, driven by economic pressures, technological advancements, and evolving cultural values. Looking ahead, they anticipate that secondhand shopping will continue to integrate seamlessly into mainstream fashion, supported by digital innovations and a growing awareness of sustainability.

Amanda (75:08):
"My hope is that secondhand will become just a normal part of day-to-day life because most of the clothes brand new are incredibly disappointing."

Kim concurs, underscoring the ongoing momentum towards embracing secondhand fashion as a staple in luxury and everyday wardrobes alike.

Kim (75:15):
"Only imagine that it will become a bigger part of just the culture at large because it's been adopted by so many more people and that there's a lot less of a stigma against it."

Clotheshorse with Amanda Lee McCarty offers a comprehensive exploration of secondhand fashion's evolution in the 2010s, highlighting its resilience and adaptability amidst economic challenges and cultural shifts. The episode underscores the enduring relevance of secondhand shopping in promoting sustainable and personalized fashion choices, setting the stage for future discussions on the subject.