Podcast Summary: Clotheshorse with Amanda Lee McCarty
Episode: FROM THE DEPARTMENT: Secondhand News, Part 2: The 80s and 90s
Release Date: April 15, 2025

Introduction

In Episode 77 of Clotheshorse with Amanda Lee McCarty, host Amanda Lee McCarty, alongside co-host Kim, delves deeper into the secondhand fashion trend, focusing specifically on its evolution during the 1980s and 1990s. Building on their initial exploration in Part 1, this episode extends into a three-episode miniseries due to the expansive nature of the topic.

Recap of Part 1: The Foundations of Secondhand Fashion

Amanda and Kim begin by summarizing the historical context of secondhand shopping, tracing its roots back to non-mainstream communities such as surrealists, hippies, and the queer community. They highlight how economic downturns in the 1970s, characterized by stagflation, propelled thrift stores into mainstream visibility, with major department stores like Macy's establishing dedicated secondhand sections.

Notable Quote:
Amanda (04:26): “We saw secondhand shopping being adopted by the surrealists, college students, hippies, chic downtown IT girls of the 50s, the queer community, and really just about anyone who has lived outside the mainstream.”

The 1980s: A Decade of Nostalgia and Economic Struggle

1950s Nostalgia Influences

The 1980s witnessed a resurgence of 1950s nostalgia, influencing fashion, entertainment, and retail. This revival was partly a reaction against the economic struggles and cultural shifts of the 1970s. Designers began borrowing elements from the 1950s, blending hyper-femininity with menswear, and introducing bold colors and mega shoulders, reminiscent of earlier decades but reimagined with an 80s twist.

Notable Quotes:
Amanda (12:10): “In the 1980s, three things are at play in the world of secondhand. One is that people are, like, so over the 70s.”
Kim (16:00): “As part of that, no one wanted to dress like it was the 70s anymore either.”

Economic Context and Consumer Behavior

The 1980s were marked by quasi-prosperity amidst widening wealth inequality. The Reagan administration's deregulation policies exacerbated economic disparities, leading consumers to seek affordable, branded clothing through secondhand avenues. Thrift stores thrived by offering desirable name-brand goods at reduced prices, appealing not just to the economically disadvantaged but also to the middle and upper-middle classes aiming to project conspicuous wealth without the hefty price tag.

Notable Quote:
Amanda (34:04): “Many people who were into this 50s trend actually found themselves wearing a mix of vintage clothing and brand new stuff.”

Cultural Icons and Media Influence

Music and film in the 80s played a pivotal role in popularizing secondhand fashion. Cyndi Lauper, the B-52s, and Madonna emerged as style icons who embraced and propagated vintage and thrifted aesthetics. Films like "Desperately Seeking Susan" and "Pretty in Pink" showcased secondhand fashion as a statement against the era's preppy, mainstream trends, further embedding secondhand shopping into youth culture.

Notable Quotes:
Amanda (44:39): “Cyndi Lauper... spoke to her distinctive, free-spirited image that was influenced by bold trends of the 80s.”
Kim (55:51): “...Pretty in Pink... style is on point, so maybe just Google some photos.”

Retail Evolution: The Rise of Consignment and Vintage Stores

The demand for authentic 1950s-inspired clothing led to the proliferation of vintage and consignment stores. Retailers like Charisma and Everybody’s Thrift Shop expanded their clientele beyond the traditional eccentric shoppers to include a more diverse, middle-class audience. This shift was fueled by improved store aesthetics and the rising costs of new clothing.

Notable Quote:
Amanda (31:17): “There was a rebirth of romanticism and nostalgia...”

Transition to the 1990s: Retail Boom and the Emergence of Off-Price Retailers

Economic Downturn and Retail Challenges

Entering the 1990s, the United States grappled with a significant recession, resulting in shrinking retail sales nationwide. Traditional department stores struggled, while Walmart, Costco, Sam's Club, and off-price retailers like TJ Maxx, Marshalls, and Ross gained prominence by offering brand-name goods at affordable prices. This era saw the rise of outlet malls, providing consumers with another avenue to access discounted prices without resorting to secondhand stores.

Notable Quote:
Amanda (73:57): “...the majority of people are always going to vote for something new over secondhand. There's just a lot of stigma attached to secondhand items.”

Cultural Shifts and the Alternative Subculture

The early 90s brought a wave of alternative and grunge culture, heavily influenced by musicians like Kurt Cobain and Courtney Love. This subculture embraced thrifting as an anti-capitalist statement and a means to cultivate a unique personal style. Media outlets and magazines like Sassy played a crucial role in normalizing and glamorizing secondhand shopping among the youth, blending it seamlessly with alternative music and fashion trends.

Notable Quotes:
Amanda (85:05): “Kurt Cobain... '...finding a little treasure like that... was more special to you...'”
Kim (90:17): “...oversized khakis, like, like, like 10 sizes too big.”

Influence of Media and Icons

Magazines such as Sassy distinguished themselves by incorporating a mix of vintage and contemporary styles, setting trends that resonated with teenagers and young adults. Iconic figures from music and film, including the Beastie Boys, Parker Posey, and characters from movies like "Party Girl", further cemented the appeal of secondhand fashion as both expressive and rebellious.

Notable Quotes:
Amanda (82:54): “These jeans could be bought new, or they could be used Levi's, the slip dress, or polyester vintage dress with doc martens.”
Kim (87:46): “...I did think it was kind of cool how Beastie Boys...”

Rise of Online Platforms: eBay and Beyond

The late 90s introduced online marketplaces like eBay, which revolutionized the secondhand shopping experience by making it more accessible and expansive. While eBay offered a broader reach for buyers and sellers, thrift stores continued to thrive by offering a tangible treasure hunt experience that online platforms couldn't replicate at the time.

Notable Quotes:
Amanda (108:00): “...eBay was getting bigger, but no one was buying secondhand clothes as much because new retailers were offering affordable options.”
Kim (109:25): “...shop from them if they had the uppercase, lowercase thing going on because it meant that they knew what they were doing.”

Conclusion and Reflections

By the end of the 90s, secondhand fashion had evolved into a multi-faceted trend, driven by economic necessity, cultural shifts, and influential media. While the rise of off-price retailers and online platforms provided new avenues for affordable branded clothing, the alternative subculture maintained thrifting as a means of self-expression and resistance against mainstream consumerism.

Amanda and Kim reflect on how these decades set the stage for the 21st-century secondhand market, emphasizing that while motivations and methods may have shifted, the underlying desire for unique, affordable, and expressive clothing remains unchanged.

Final Notable Quotes:
Amanda (110:53): “This was the golden era of off-price.”
Kim (112:17): “We have a tip jar available on our Instagram profile...”

Looking Ahead

In the next episode, Amanda and Kim plan to explore how the Internet intersects with secondhand fashion in the 21st century, discussing the rise of online thrift stores, social media influences, and the ongoing debates surrounding sustainability and consumerism in the digital age.

Engage with Clotheshorse:

• Instagram: @_the_department
• Website: Department World
• Tip Jar: Support the podcast via Instagram for continued insightful discussions.

End of Summary