Death on Aconcagua: A Detailed Summary

Introduction

In the January 1, 2025 episode of Conspiracy Theories, Spotify Studios delves into the mysterious deaths that occurred during a 1973 American expedition to Aconcagua, the tallest mountain in the Western Hemisphere. Hosted by Carter Roy, the episode explores whether these deaths were mere accidents or the result of foul play, weaving through survivor accounts, official investigations, and lingering theories.

The 1973 Expedition

The story begins in Mendoza, Argentina, where eight Americans gather at a hotel in preparation for their ascent of Aconcagua via the challenging Polish route—a feat achieved by only a few since 1934. The diverse group includes a NASA engineer, a police officer, a doctor, a lawyer, and notably, a woman named Janet Johnson, which was uncommon for the time. Local reporter Rafael Moran documents the expedition, sensing underlying tensions among the climbers.

Group Dynamics and Challenges

Despite embarking on a perilous journey, the group lacks cohesion. Members are strangers with little familiarity, leading to a fragmented team dynamic. Carter Roy narrates, “[They] hardly know each other,” highlighting the absence of solidarity essential for such a demanding climb. The expedition faces severe logistical challenges, including the necessity to shuttle equipment up the mountain repeatedly and contend with extreme altitude—base camp sits at approximately 13,500 feet, ascending to the summit at around 22,800 feet.

The Summit Attempt and Separation

As the team reaches their final camp at 19,400 feet, altitude sickness has already sidelined three climbers. The remaining members—John Cooper, Arnold McMillan, Bill Zeller, Janet Johnson, and guide Miguel Alfonso—prepare for the final ascent. However, mental and physical strains escalate. Bill Zeller describes the altitude effects: “Every breath feels like a hammer in your head” ([15:30]).

During the summit push, Jim Petroski exhibits severe disorientation, leading to his descent with Alfonso. The remaining four decide to proceed without turning back, a decision they later question.

The Descent and Suspicious Circumstances

As darkness falls, the group becomes exhausted and disoriented. Janet Johnson begins exhibiting erratic behavior, pleading to “leave [her] here and die” ([35:45]). Despite her pleas, her companions assist her. Overnight, hallucinations plague Zeller and McMillan, leading to inconsistent recollections of events, such as whether they camped together or separately.

By morning, Cooper departs alone but is later found dead, displaying no signs of a standard fall. Johnson is discovered with severe head trauma, including a mysterious rock placed on her face and her boot sliced open—circumstances that do not align with typical mountaineering accidents.

Official Investigation and Media Coverage

The tragic outcomes attract media attention, with the New York Times conducting extensive reporting. Discrepancies in survivor testimonies fuel speculation about potential foul play. For instance, differing accounts of how Johnson was left to her fate and the exact sequence of discovering Cooper and Johnson raise red flags ([60:20]).

Auguentine authorities, hindered by a military coup in 1976, cease the investigation, leaving many questions unanswered. The official cause of death lists blunt force trauma for both victims, but without Johnson’s body initially found, conclusive evidence remains elusive.

Later Developments and Body Recovery

In February 1975, two years post-disappearance, Janet Johnson's body is finally located by a new expedition. Her remains reveal deliberate head trauma inconsistent with an accidental fall. A rock atop her face and her sliced boot suggest intentional harm. John Cooper’s body, recovered later, exhibits similar suspicious injuries, including a deep, round wound in his abdomen—unlikely caused by an axe as initially speculated.

Theories on Death: Accident vs. Foul Play

The episode presents two primary theories:

1. Accidental Deaths: Altitude-induced psychosis led to irrational decisions and tragic accidents. Carmi Dafoe, the expedition organizer, argues that high altitude can cause severe mental disorientation, making it plausible that the survivors’ inconsistent memories are a consequence of extreme environmental stress ([75:10]).

2. Foul Play: Inconsistencies in survivor accounts and the nature of the injuries suggest possible intentional murder. Rumors include a potential theft of a backpack containing cash or interpersonal conflicts within the group. However, no concrete evidence supports these theories, and motivations remain speculative.

Recent Developments and Final Thoughts

In 2020, melting glaciers unveil Janet Johnson's camera and missing backpack, providing new insights. Developed photos largely corroborate survivor stories but reveal Johnson taking the lead in some images, contradicting accounts that she lagged behind. This discovery reignites debates, yet no definitive conclusions emerge.

Carter Roy concludes that while many details suggest accidental deaths influenced by environmental and psychological factors, the lack of concrete evidence keeps the case shrouded in mystery. Expert opinions, such as those from climber Roberto Bustosi, emphasize the uncontrollable nature of high-altitude environments and the likelihood that any actions taken were beyond the climbers' rational control.

Notable Quotes

• Bill Zeller: “Every breath feels like a hammer in your head.” ([15:30])
• Carmi Dafoe: “High altitude creates a different world. People do things at 20,000ft that would seem unthinkable to them at 5,000ft.” ([80:45])
• Janet Johnson's Mother: “She asked to die”—crossed out to protect her memory. ([50:10])

Conclusion

The 1973 Aconcagua expedition remains a compelling case study in the intersection of human endurance, environmental extremities, and the fragility of memory under duress. While official closure never came due to political turmoil, the enduring questions continue to inspire both mountaineering enthusiasts and conspiracy theorists alike.

Sources:

• Extensive reporting by John Branch and team from the New York Times.
• Autopsy reports and survivor interviews detailed in the podcast transcript.
• Insights from mountaineers and experts on high-altitude psychosis.

Notable Contributors:

• Hannah McIntosh: Writer and researcher
• Miki Taylor and Maggie Admire: Editors
• Lori Siegel: Fact checker
• Kelly Garry: Sound designer

For more intriguing explorations into controversial events and the beliefs behind them, tune into Conspiracy Theories every Wednesday on Spotify. Share your thoughts on Instagram @heconspiracypod or via email at conspiracystories@spotify.com.