Design Matters with Debbie Millman: Episode Summary Featuring Paul Tazewell

Release Date: February 10, 2025

Introduction

In this compelling episode of Design Matters with Debbie Millman, host Debbie Millman engages in an insightful conversation with renowned costume designer Paul Tazewell. With a career spanning over three decades, Paul has left an indelible mark on theater, film, television, opera, and ballet through his exceptional costume designs for iconic productions such as Wicked, Hamilton, and Steven Spielberg’s West Side Story. This episode delves deep into Paul’s creative journey, his design philosophy, and the profound impact of his work on contemporary storytelling.

Early Inspirations and Beginnings in Theater

Paul Tazewell recounts his early experiences with theater, highlighting a pivotal moment that set him on his creative path.

Paul Tazewell [04:09]: "Once I was bitten by the bug of theater, I really wanted to be a performer. And costume design was a side gig."

Paul’s first foray into costume design occurred during his high school years when he not only designed costumes for a production but also performed in it.

Paul Tazewell [04:13]: "I played the Wiz. I wanted to be a performer, and costume design was something I happened to explore alongside."

His mother’s artistic talents also played a significant role in nurturing his creative instincts.

Paul Tazewell [05:21]: "My mother helped make the white suit and the cape with the green lining, and my dad helped spray paint Glinda's gold cape for that production."

Educational Pursuits and Career Development

Paul details his educational journey, emphasizing the balance between passion and practicality.

Paul Tazewell [12:58]: "When you go through this process of deciding between a passion and a practical career, it really shapes your path."

Initially majoring in fashion design at Pratt Institute, Paul later transferred to the North Carolina School of the Arts to focus more on costume design and performance. This decision was influenced by both personal passion and pragmatic considerations about career longevity.

Paul Tazewell [15:17]: "I realized that my longevity as a costume designer would be much greater."

His tenure at the Arena Stage in Washington, D.C. marked a significant period of growth, earning him multiple Helen Hayes Award nominations and establishing him as a formidable force in costume design.

Breakthrough with the Public Theater and Hamilton

Paul’s collaboration with the Public Theater and pivotal figures like George Wolf, Lynn, and Tommy Kail led to groundbreaking work on productions such as Bring it to Heat and Bring it to Funk.

Paul Tazewell [20:46]: "Bring it to Funk" was my first Broadway show, earning me my first Tony nomination at just 30 years old."

His most notable collaboration came with Hamilton, where his costume designs became iconic elements of the production.

Paul Tazewell [25:08]: "Working with Tommy and Lynn created a safe space to innovate, and that's when I did my best work."

His work on Hamilton not only garnered critical acclaim but also earned him a Tony Award nomination, solidifying his status in the industry.

Costume Design Philosophy and Process

Paul elaborates on his approach to costume design, emphasizing the importance of storytelling through clothing.

Paul Tazewell [54:26]: "How you dress yourself is very intentional and speaks to where you're at in your heart and how you want to represent yourself."

For Wicked, Paul drew inspiration from the Art Nouveau period and the Fibonacci spiral to infuse asymmetry and organic elements into Elphaba’s costumes, symbolizing her complexity and misunderstood nature.

Paul Tazewell [36:05]: "I latched onto the Fibonacci spiral as a creative element to govern the world of Oz, making it both whimsical and magical."

He highlights the challenges of designing contemporary costumes, where designs must align with the everyday wearability while still reflecting character depth.

Paul Tazewell [30:09]: "Contemporary design is often more challenging because everyone involved knows clothing and it's what we wear every day."

Impact of Personal Experiences on Design

Paul shares how personal experiences, including moments of grief, have influenced his creative output.

Paul Tazewell [40:26]: "Working on Harriet while grieving the loss of my husband allowed me to use the creative process as a healing mechanism."

His collaboration with Cynthia Erivo deepened his understanding of character portrayal, enhancing the authenticity of his costume designs.

Paul Tazewell [40:26]: "Cynthia’s dedication and athleticism inspired me to create costumes that support her every move while maintaining her character's essence."

Iconic Designs and Cultural Significance

Paul discusses the cultural impact of his designs, particularly in Wicked, where costumes became symbols beyond the stage.

Paul Tazewell [37:01]: "The costume Ariana Grande wore on Saturday Night Live became telegraphic of Hamilton's aesthetic without needing context."

He emphasizes the role of costumes in shaping audience perceptions and reinforcing narrative themes.

Paul Tazewell [51:53]: "My lens into Elphaba is seeing her as a person of color, which adds layers of misunderstanding and depth to her character."

Reflections and Advice on Storytelling Through Clothing

In closing, Paul shares profound insights on the power of clothing in storytelling and personal expression.

Paul Tazewell [54:55]: "We're making judgments daily based on what people wear. How you dress speaks to who you are and how you wish to be perceived."

He encourages listeners to be intentional with their wardrobe choices as a reflection of their inner selves.

Conclusion

Paul Tazewell’s journey from a high school performer to an acclaimed costume designer exemplifies the fusion of passion, creativity, and resilience. His designs not only adorn characters but also deepen the narrative, making stories more immersive and emotionally resonant. Through his collaboration with visionary artists and his unwavering commitment to storytelling, Paul continues to shape the visual landscape of modern theater and film.

Notable Quotes:

• Paul Tazewell [04:13]: "Once I was bitten by the bug of theater, I really wanted to be a performer. And costume design was a side gig."

• Paul Tazewell [36:05]: "I latched onto the Fibonacci spiral as a creative element to govern the world of Oz, making it both whimsical and magical."

• Paul Tazewell [54:55]: "We're making judgments daily based on what people wear. How you dress speaks to who you are and how you wish to be perceived."

For more insights and inspiring conversations, subscribe to Design Matters with Debbie Millman and explore the world of creativity through the lens of some of the most innovative minds.