Donyale Luna: Myth, Model, Muse, Part II – A Detailed Summary

Dressed Media's "Dressed: The History of Fashion" delves deep into the life and legacy of Donyale Luna, the first Black model to grace the cover of Vogue. In this second part of the two-part series, hosts April Callahan and Cassidy Zachary explore Luna's groundbreaking career, her foray into acting, the challenges she faced in the 1970s, and her enduring legacy in the fashion world.

1. Contextualizing Black Models in the 1960s Fashion Industry

April Callahan and Cassidy Zachary open the episode by situating Donyale Luna's achievements within a broader movement of increased visibility for Black models in the 1960s. They emphasize that while Luna was a pioneering figure, she was part of a larger shift where the fashion industry began embracing diversity.

[02:27] B: "The increase of Black models in mainstream fashion publications cannot be divorced from the heightened visibility of Black women across the wider spectrum of pop culture outlets."

The hosts reference the Grandassa Models, an all-Black modeling troupe and agency instrumental in the Black Is Beautiful movement, highlighting the collective efforts that paved the way for Luna and her contemporaries.

2. Donyale Luna's Ascendancy in Fashion

The episode underscores Luna's meteoric rise after becoming the first Black model on the cover of British Vogue in 1966. Time magazine lauded her impact, recognizing her role in reshaping the image of Black women in fashion.

[01:22] B: "Fashion finds itself in an instrumental position for changing history... about to bring out into the open the veneration, the adoration and the idolization of the Negro woman."

Despite her monumental status, Luna remained humble about her role as a trailblazer. In a 1966 Cosmopolitan interview, she downplayed the significance of her race in her success:

[05:12] A: "I don't think being black had anything at all to do with my success."

However, her legacy is undeniable. Historian Richard Powell notes that Luna's presence in predominantly white fashion spaces was a symbolic breakthrough during the civil rights era.

3. Luna's Pursuit of Acting and Artistic Ambitions

Luna was not content with her success in modeling alone. She aspired to become an award-winning actress, actively pursuing roles alongside her modeling career. Her move to New York in 1964 marked the beginning of her dual pursuits in modeling and acting.

[11:21] B: "Danielle turns down film offers all the time. I don't want bit parts. I started at the top in modeling and I want to start at the top in acting with something terrific."

Her connections with influential figures like Andy Warhol led to appearances in his projects, including his 1965 satire film Camp. Luna's collaborations extended to prominent directors such as Otto Preminger, resulting in roles that, while controversial, showcased her versatility and ambition.

In Otto Preminger’s Skidoo, Luna played God's mistress, a role that, despite the film's critical panning, provided her with significant exposure:

[17:10] B: "It starred Jackie Gleason, Carol Channing, Groucho Marx as God and Danielle as the over-sexed mistress who continually cheats on God."

Furthermore, her role in Federico Fellini's Satiricon (1969) positioned her within the avant-garde cinematic landscape, though it also marked the beginning of her career's complex trajectory.

4. Control Over Her Image and Representation

Luna was fiercely protective of her image, using her platform to navigate and subvert the often objectifying portrayals of Black women in media. Her 1975 Playboy photoshoot is a testament to this control, where she portrayed herself as mystical and powerful figures rather than mere objects of desire.

[21:12] B: "Although fulfilling Playboy's prerequisite for female nudity, the photographs were far from titillating or sexually explicit. Luna seemed not only at ease with her nudity but completely beyond societal structures and moral rectangular."

Luna's ability to curate her image extended to her personal life. Photographed by her husband, Luigi Casaniga, Luna appeared as ethereal and otherworldly, reinforcing her status as a fashion icon with depth and agency.

5. Challenges and Decline in the 1970s

Despite her early successes, Luna's career faced significant challenges in the 1970s. Her decision to prioritize acting over modeling led to diminished presence in the fashion industry. A notable example of this decline is her 1974 appearance in a Halston runway show, which was poorly received:

[24:17] B: "Former top model Danielle Luna appeared on the New York scene in his AKA Halston hooded sequin caftan... she started to crawl. After five minutes, she had only covered half the Runway."

Fashion historian Bill Cunningham reflects on this period, noting that the fashion world began to overlook Black models like Luna despite their groundbreaking contributions.

[25:08] A: "The curtain parts and the white model dominate... It is the birth of a new fashion era."

Scholars like Powell attribute Luna's fading fame to a combination of personal choices, including her focus on experimental films, and systemic issues within the motion picture industry, which Powell describes as "essentially racist."

6. Tragic End and Lasting Legacy

Luna's life was tragically cut short in 1979 due to a drug overdose at the age of 32. Despite rumors and media speculation, her daughter, Dream, clarifies that Luna remained dynamic and creative until her untimely death.

[27:18] B: "Despite stories in the press about the last years of her life, my father has told me that she was dynamic and creative until the end."

Her legacy, however, continues to inspire. Recent tributes, such as Zendaya's homage in Essence Magazine, celebrate Luna's enduring influence on fashion and representation.

[27:43] A: "Zendaya teamed up with celebrity stylist Law Roach to pay homage to Danielle in a stunning multi-page spread for Essence magazine... a potent reminder of just how magnetic, enchanting, and talented Dhonielle truly was."

Luna's contributions laid the groundwork for future generations of Black models and actresses, ensuring that her impact on the fashion industry remains significant.

7. Conclusion: Remembering Donyale Luna

Callahan and Zachary conclude the episode by reflecting on Luna's vibrant spirit and lasting influence. They emphasize that while Luna's life was marked by both triumph and tragedy, her legacy as a trailblazer in fashion and a symbol of empowerment endures.

[28:29] B: "May you remember the life, legacy, and the magic of Danielle Luna the next time you get dressed."

Listeners are encouraged to explore Dressed Media's extensive archives and upcoming offerings to further engage with fashion history and Luna's remarkable story.

Notable Quotes:

• Time Magazine on Luna's Impact (01:22):

  "Fashion finds itself in an instrumental position for changing history... about to bring out into the open the veneration, the adoration and the idolization of the Negro woman."

• Danielle's Humble Reflection (05:12):

  "I don't think being black had anything at all to do with my success."

• Dream on Luna's Symbolic Role (06:00):

  "As the civil rights movement gathered pace, so too did society's fascination with the exotic and the alien...almost against her own will, she became a symbol."

• Richard Powell on Luna's Playboy Feature (21:12):

  "Although fulfilling Playboy's prerequisite for female nudity, the photographs were far from titillating or sexually explicit... suggesting ancient deities and an ascetic ritualistic actions."

Further Engagement:

Listeners interested in exploring more about Luna and the broader context of Black models in fashion are encouraged to visit dresshistory.com for access to over 500 episodes, online fashion history classes, and exclusive tours in Paris and New York City.