Podcast Summary: Dressed in NYC 2025 Recap, Part I

Podcast Information:

• Title: Dressed: The History of Fashion
• Host/Author: Dressed Media
• Episode: Dressed in NYC 2025 Recap, Part I
• Release Date: April 23, 2025

Introduction to the NYC Fashion Tours

Cassidy Zachary (00:59) opens the episode by emphasizing the universal connection we all share through the act of dressing daily. Together with April Callahan (01:15), the hosts introduce the episode's focus: a comprehensive recap of their recent New York City day tours dedicated to exploring the rich tapestry of fashion history.

April Callahan (01:15) welcomes listeners, highlighting their roles as friends and fashion historians eager to delve into the "who, what, when, and why" of daily dressing practices across cultures and eras.

Overview of the NYC Day Tours

The hosts express their excitement about the recent tours, which were exceptionally well-attended. Cassidy (01:37) mentions that the success of these tours necessitated a two-part episode to adequately cover the wealth of fashion history and insights shared.

April (02:00) explains the structure of the tours, designed as separate itineraries for individual days, allowing participants the flexibility to join one or multiple days based on their interests and availability.

Day One: Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT)

The first day of the tour focused entirely on the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT). Both hosts are alumni, having completed their master's degrees in the Fashion Museum Studies program. (Cassidy 04:01, April 04:01).

Special Collections at FIT

April (04:54) delves into the significance of FIT's Special Collections, a part of the library that houses approximately 10,000 rare books, 500 magazine titles dating back to the 18th century, original artworks, sketches, and fashion illustrations. She highlights a 1795 document from the French Revolution era, underscoring the evolution of fashion norms based on gender appropriateness.

Cassidy (06:07) reminisces about her internship at FIT, sharing her awe upon discovering rare items like the pochoa hand-stenciling fashion plates. She references their joint book, Fashion on Art, and mentions the exquisite Les Chose du Pauperre illustrated by Georges Lepape, noting its vibrant color palette that brings historical fashion illustrations to life.

April (07:12) adds that pochoa was an expensive, intricate technique popular in the 1910s and 1920s among luxury publications.

Highlights from Galerie des Modes

Cassidy (07:47) highlights the Galerie des Modes publications (1778-1787), which documented the high-art fashion of pre-revolutionary France. She compares it to a modern street style blog, noting that subscribers received these fashion plates by mail, keeping them updated with the latest Parisian trends without accompanying articles.

A surprising discovery during the tour was the collection of geisha calling cards (08:43)—beautiful woodblock prints from the 1920s, demonstrating the diverse range of fashion ephemera at FIT.

Interactive Exploration and Etiquette Books

Visitors had the opportunity to view niche items like the 1919 etiquette book Shooting for Ladies (09:57), which discusses the appropriate attire for women engaging in shooting sports—a testament to the era's gendered fashion expectations.

Day Two: The Museum at FIT's Study Collection

Cassidy (10:39) describes an exclusive experience within the Museum at FIT's Study Collection, a space where garments from as early as the 1840s can be handled and examined by students and researchers. She previews her upcoming class, "What Women Wore to the Revolution," focusing on the transformation of women's fashion from the 1850s to the 1920s.

Rediscovering Historical Garments

During the tour, an intriguing garment initially dated to 1914 was re-examined. April (12:56) shares their collaborative detective work uncovering that the dress was actually from 1924, crafted by Evelyn McWhorter of Lucille Staff, correcting a decade-old misdating in the catalog records.

Cassidy (13:00) notes the importance of silhouette differences in dating garments, emphasizing how waistlines and hemlines evolved from the 1910s to the 1920s.

The hosts continued exploring iconic designers' works from the 1920s to the 1950s, discussing pieces by Gilbert Adrian, Pierre Balmain, Claire McCardell, and Christian Dior. April (15:30) fondly recalls handling a Madame Gray gown—a children's dress with an exceptionally small waist and intricate petitioner techniques.

April (15:44) cautions that the Study Collection garments are often in poor condition, intended for educational purposes rather than display.

Future Episodes Teased

Cassidy (16:07) hints at future episodes, including an upcoming discussion on a Fortuny Delphos gown housed in the Study Collection, promising more insights into these rare fashion pieces.

Exploring the Metropolitan Museum of Art

April (26:35) transitions to their visit to the Metropolitan Museum of Art, one of New York City's iconic cultural landmarks. They recount two private tours led by esteemed guests:

Tour with Dr. Colleen Darnell

Cassidy (26:32) introduces Dr. Colleen Darnell, a renowned Egyptologist and past guest who led an engaging tour on ancient Egyptian dress practices. A memorable clip from their 2018 interview is shared:

Dr. Colleen Darnell (27:49): "There were in fact a number during Egyptian history, three major ones in the Pharaonic period up until Cleopatra VII... Hatshepsut is fascinating because in her art she starts out very obviously feminine... by the end of her reign, she's depicted fully masculine..."

Cassidy (30:00) adds that during the tour, they observed sculptures depicting Queen Hatshepsut's transformation from a female pharaoh to a more androgynous ruler, highlighting the intricate relationship between fashion, power, and gender roles in ancient Egypt.

Tour with April Callahan

Simultaneously, April (30:45) conducted her own tour focusing on ancient Egyptian beauty and cosmetic practices. She shares insights into exquisite artifacts like Princess Cytheronet's makeup boxes and ancient wig rings, discussing their significance in understanding Egyptian beauty standards and societal norms.

April (33:46) touches on the socio-political implications of fashion, recounting how the use of wig powder made from wheat starch by aristocrats during the French Revolution was perceived amidst widespread famine—demonstrating fashion as a form of political expression.

Day Three: Antonio Rotti Textile Center

April (36:35) introduces the Antonio Rotti Textile Center, a specialized study department within the Metropolitan Museum of Art that houses over 36,000 textile-based objects. Joined by past guest Elena Kanagi Lux (38:21), a lace historian and maker, they explore the global and technical aspects of lace-making.

Exploration of Lace and Global Textile Practices

Elena Kanagi Lux (38:21) discusses the factors that influenced the development of lace in Europe, including advancements in printing technology, the availability of skilled female labor, and the growing appetite for elaborate fashion among the aristocracy.

April (39:01) highlights a remarkable piece: Chantilly lyres made from human hair. This blonde lace, crafted from individual strands of hair rather than thread, showcases the intricate craftsmanship and innovative techniques prevalent in regions like Brittany and Normandy, epicenters of the hair trade.

Cassidy (39:46) expresses fascination with the history of the hair trade, noting its impact on both the fashion and wig industries. April (40:10) elaborates on the economic and cultural dynamics of hair harvesting, particularly how regions known for their blonde populations facilitated the production of exquisite lace and wigs.

Global Textile Mastery

Elena (38:39) also discusses various global textile practices, from Chinese embroidered slippers to Turkish platform shoes adorned with mother-of-pearl. April (43:09) and Cassidy (43:13) marvel at the technical mastery required to create such intricate textiles, emphasizing the blend of artistry and craftsmanship.

Upcoming Tours and Events

Towards the episode's conclusion, April and Cassidy share exciting news about their upcoming Santa Fe fashion history tour scheduled for October. They plan to explore the rich textile heritage of New Mexico, including visits to the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum and the historic El Rancho de los Colantrinas ranch, promising an immersive experience into indigenous and colonial dress practices.

Cassidy (44:37) highlights anticipated activities such as walking tours and picnics by the lake at El Rancho de los Colantrinas, inviting listeners to join their journey and engage with diverse fashion histories.

Notable Quotes

• Cassidy Zachary (01:37): “We had a whole cohort of people who joined us in our recent Paris 2024 trip come to New York. So really, that was just so special and it really speaks to the community that Dressed has built...”

• April Callahan (12:56): “Fashion history, sleuthing. Happened in real time.”

• Cassidy Zachary (27:49): “There were in fact a number during Egyptian history, three major ones in the Pharaonic period up until Cleopatra VII...”

• Elena Kanagi Lux (38:21): “There are a number of factors that kind of convened at the same time to encourage the development of lace in Europe…”

Conclusion

April Callahan (46:24) and Cassidy Zachary (46:43) wrap up the episode by encouraging listeners to reflect on their relationship with clothing and its meanings. They promote their upcoming classes, tours, and resources available on their website, inviting ongoing engagement with the rich history of fashion.

Listeners are reminded to connect via social media and explore additional content through their newsletters and online courses, ensuring a continuous journey into the fascinating world of fashion history.

For more detailed exploration of each topic and additional episodes, listeners are encouraged to visit DressHistory.com and follow the podcast on their preferred platforms.