Dressed: The History of Fashion – Episode Recap: Dressed in NYC 2025 Recap, Part II
Release Date: April 25, 2025
In the second part of the “Dressed in NYC 2025 Recap” series, hosts Cassie Zachary and April Callahan take listeners on an immersive journey through New York City's vibrant Garment District and the New York Historical Society. This episode delves deep into the historical and cultural significance of these iconic locations, highlighting the enduring legacy of American fashion and the artisans who continue to shape it.
Morning in the Garment District: Heart of American Fashion
The episode begins with a detailed exploration of New York City's Garment District, specifically focusing on Fashion Avenue (7th Avenue), which has been pivotal in establishing the city as a global fashion hub.
Historical Foundations
- 557th Avenue: The first stop on the tour, 557th Avenue, was constructed in 1925 by architect and garment manufacturer Lewis Adler. This building symbolizes a critical period when the garment industry was deliberately relocated from the upscale Fifth Avenue to foster a dedicated neighborhood for garment trade.
- Zoning Law of 1916: In response to the burgeoning garment industry crowding Fifth Avenue, the Fifth Avenue Association successfully enacted a zoning law in July 1916, mandating that 95% of garment factories move to a designated area between 5th and 9th Avenues, and 34th to 42nd Streets. By the early 1920s, this area blossomed into the fastest-growing construction site in New York City, housing over 1,500 garment firms by the 1950s.
Golden Age of the Garment District
- By the 1950s, the Garment District reached its zenith with approximately 8,500 women’s apparel manufacturers. The district was a bustling hub not only for large-scale production but also for specialized trades such as fabric pleaters and silk flower makers.
Spotlight on Artisanal Excellence
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Tom's Sons International Pleating and M.N.S. Schmalberg: The hosts highlight two venerable family-owned businesses—Tom's Sons International Pleating led by George Collegian, and M.N.S. Schmalberg helmed by Adam Brand. Both companies, situated just blocks apart on 36th Street, exemplify the district’s commitment to quality and craftsmanship.
Notable Quote:
“Their businesses sit just a couple blocks apart from one another on 36th Street. Their respective businesses represent two of the longest running and oldest family-owned operations in the entire garment district.”
— April Callahan [02:46]
In-Depth Conversations with Artisans
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Adam Brand’s Legacy: Adam Brand shares insights into his family’s transition from textile manufacturing to specialized flower making, emphasizing the organic evolution of their craft.
Notable Quote:
“They were just trying to feed their family… they went smaller. While this is a unique craft now, there was at one time, and I read this in a book, there was at one time 150 feather and flower manufacturers in New York City.”
— George Collegian [07:35] -
Project Golden Bear: Highlighting the innovative Project Golden Bear, George Collegian discusses the apprenticeship program that repurposes textile scraps into exquisitely crafted teddy bears. The initiative not only preserves traditional pleating techniques but also supports nonprofit organizations assisting children with life-threatening illnesses.
Notable Quote:
“Project Golden Bear has an apprenticeship aspect to it… they craft these really exquisitely made from ultra deluxe fabrics… sales of them will be designated to aid various nonprofit groups.”
— April Callahan [17:52]
Afternoon at the New York Historical Society: Celebrating Everyday Fashion
After a morning immersed in the Garment District, the hosts transition to the New York Historical Society, where a series of enriching experiences await.
Engagement with Historians
- Presentation by Chaney McKnight: Chaney McKnight, known for her activism and role as the head of Living History at the New York Historical Society, delivers a comprehensive 40-minute presentation on her personal journey in historical interpretation through fashion.
Exploration of Tiffany Galleries
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The hosts express their fascination with the Tiffany Galleries, dedicated to the works of Lewis Comfort Tiffany. They marvel at the intricate stained glass lamps and the significant contributions of Clara Driscoll, a pivotal yet often underrecognized female designer in Tiffany’s legacy.
Notable Quote:
“Clara Driscoll was an incredible designer in her own right and she deserves as much credit for this kind of magical forest of lamps as Lewis.”
— Chanie McKnight [22:00]
Real Clothes, Real Lives Exhibition
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Focus on Everyday Women: The “Real Clothes, Real Lives” exhibition shifts the narrative from high fashion to the quotidian garments of everyday women, offering a poignant glimpse into the lives and styles of women across different eras.
Highlight: Nell Donnelly Reed
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Nell Donnelly Reed is spotlighted as a pioneering entrepreneur who revolutionized homewear in the early 20th century. By introducing stylish yet affordable clothing with practical features like pockets, Reed empowered working women without compromising on style.
Notable Quote:
“She knew how to sell her clothes. She was an early millionaire… she was remarkable that way.”
— Kiki Smith [27:33]
Unique Artifacts: The exhibition features rare items such as the McDonald’s maternity uniform from the 1970s and World War II era stocking repair kits, each telling unique stories of their time.
Notable Quote:
“There was quite a lot of workwear within the exhibition, whether it be professional workwear or even workwear that women might wear at home while doing housework.”
— Chanie McKnight [29:11] -
Connecting the Past to the Present: Preserving Craftsmanship
Throughout the episode, hosts emphasize the importance of supporting traditional crafts and preserving the rich history embedded in everyday fashion. By engaging with family-owned businesses and highlighting historical exhibitions, Cassie and April underscore the enduring impact of these practices on modern fashion.
Upcoming Initiatives and Tours
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Santa Fe, New Mexico Tour: Announced as the next destination, the fall tour to Santa Fe will explore the region’s multicultural textile traditions, promising another deep dive into the diverse narratives of American fashion history.
Notable Quote:
“Santa Fe is probably a little unexpected for a lot of people that perhaps don't know about Santa Fe's rich textile traditions.”
— Cassie Zachary [31:14] -
Educational Opportunities: Hosts promote upcoming online courses and in-person tours, inviting listeners to further explore the intricate stories woven into fashion history.
Final Thoughts: The Fabric of History
In wrapping up the episode, Cassie and April encourage listeners to support traditional artisans and engage with the historical narratives that continue to shape the fashion landscape. They highlight the significance of recognizing the craftsmanship and dedication that sustain the legacy of American fashion.
Notable Quote:
“It's really important that we support people like Adam and George. And it's really special to see them continuing these hand craftsmanship skills and also preserving them for future generations.”
— Chanie McKnight [17:52]
Stay Connected Listeners can access additional content, visual materials, and book recommendations through Dressed Media’s website and social media channels. Upcoming episodes promise further explorations into fashion history, ensuring that the stories sewn into every garment remain alive and celebrated.
Notable Excerpts from the Episode:
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Fabric Flower Artistry
"They have all these flowers that are made, but you also get to see people cutting flowers, cutting the fabric flowers. And they have assembling, like, stamps, you know, that are decades old... it's still all done by hand."
— Chanie McKnight [09:44] -
Clara Driscoll’s Contribution
“Clara Driscoll was an incredible designer in her own right and she deserves as much credit for this kind of magical forest of lamps as Lewis.”
— Chanie McKnight [22:00] -
Nell Donnelly Reed’s Impact
“She was so good to her workers during the Depression. They all worked no matter what the demands were from the outside world. She made sure they got insurance.”
— Kiki Smith [27:33]
This episode of Dressed: The History of Fashion masterfully intertwines historical insights with contemporary relevance, offering listeners a comprehensive understanding of New York City's enduring influence on the fashion industry and the individuals who keep its legacy alive.