Dressed: The History of Fashion
Episode: Fashioning the Gilded Age: The Women Who Influenced French Fashion with Dr. Elizabeth Block
Release Date: July 16, 2025
Host: Dressed Media
Guest: Dr. Elizabeth Block, Senior Editor at the Metropolitan Museum of Art

Introduction to the Episode

In this episode of Dressed: The History of Fashion, hosts April Callahan and Cassidy Zachary delve into the intricate world of French haute couture during the Gilded Age. Joining them is Dr. Elizabeth Block, a distinguished fashion historian and the author of the book "Dressing the Women who Influenced French Fashion". The conversation centers on the collaborative nature of the haute couture industry, the often-overlooked figures who shaped fashion, and the influential American women who were pivotal patrons of French fashion.

Expanding Fashion History Narratives

Dr. Elizabeth Block opens the discussion by emphasizing the need to broaden the traditional narratives of fashion history. She critiques the conventional focus on Parisian haute couturiers as solitary geniuses, arguing instead for recognition of the extensive network of artisans and professionals that sustained the industry.

"One of the consistent themes of this podcast... is expanding the narratives of fashion history... Getting to the heart of the story sewn into the clothes we all wear."
(00:48)

April Callahan echoes this sentiment, highlighting the seismic impact French fashion had in the 19th and 20th centuries, particularly through figures like Charles Frederick Worth.

"French fashion had a seismic impact... Charles Frederick Worth... laid the groundwork for the modern fashion system."
(02:16)

The Collaborative Nature of Haute Couture

A significant portion of the discussion revolves around the collaborative efforts behind haute couture. Dr. Block dismantles the myth of the solitary designer by showcasing the myriad contributors—from seamstresses and tailors to perfumers and milliners—that collectively elevated French fashion to its esteemed status.

"Designers like Worth were part of a much larger fashion team... Collectively secured the success and the maintenance of the myth that only through French fashion and French fashion alone could women's sartorial dreams come true."
(03:27)

Cassidy Zachary elaborates on this by explaining how the interdependence among various fashion professionals fostered both collaboration and rivalry within the industry.

"The hairdressers would malign the milliners if the milliners made hats that covered too much of the coiffure... The perfumers needed to work with the hairdressers and the couturiers."
(15:40)

Unveiling Maison Felix: A Hidden Gem

One of the standout segments focuses on Maison Felix, a Parisian fashion house that, despite its success from 1846 to 1901, remains relatively obscure in fashion history.

Cassidy recounts her journey of uncovering this lesser-known house, which became the cornerstone of her research and subsequent book.

"We believe that the house that designed the slender black dress worn by Madame Gautreau was possibly made by the Maison Felix in Paris... The house was in business for so many years... it's one of my favorites."
(04:30 - 06:16)

Dr. Block emphasizes the significance of Maison Felix in challenging the dominant narrative centered around more renowned couturiers like Worth.

"Maison Felix is not one of the well-known names... we are trying to reframe that narrative and show all of the different people and professions involved."
(08:33)

Despite its prominence in its time and clientele that included royalty and celebrities, Maison Felix fell out of historical prominence due to the scarcity of surviving business documentation.

"The Felix firm was a household name in the United States... But it has fallen out of the historical record... because we don't have business documentation or ledgers for it."
(28:38)

The Integral Roles of Coiffures and Perfumers

Dr. Block and Cassidy delve into the critical yet often marginalized roles of hairdressers (coiffures) and perfumers in the haute couture ecosystem.

"Coiffures... were central to the fashion system... indispensable gears of the fashion engine."
(13:00)

Cassidy provides vivid descriptions of hairdressing establishments, particularly highlighting the salon operated by Guillaume Louis Lenterique. She illustrates the high level of sophistication and the intertwining of services like perfume mixing and floral arrangements within these salons.

"There was a large metal hair dryer on wheels... It was one of the earliest hair dryers, invented in 1890."
(27:29)

Additionally, the conversation touches upon the innovative practice of integrating scents into garments. Cassidy describes how silk sachets infused with specific perfumes were sewn into dresses, enhancing the sensory experience of fashion beyond mere visual appeal.

"Perfume is ephemeral... perfumers were credited in many fashion plates... you could have your signature scent in your gown."
(18:20)

Influential American Women: Patrons of French Fashion

The episode spotlights prominent American women who were instrumental patrons of French haute couture, reshaping both fashion and social dynamics.

Caroline Astor and Alva Vanderbilt are highlighted as archetypal figures whose patronage played a pivotal role in sustaining French fashion's dominance.

"Caroline Astor preferred dark colored dresses... Alva Vanderbilt was a little bit more showy... she dressed as a Venetian princess."
(34:09 - 38:59)

Dr. Block underscores how these women used haute couture as a tool for social diplomacy and status projection, often curating extensive wardrobes to navigate and influence international society.

"Couture may be viewed as a powerful instrument in European-U.S. diplomacy... they amassed an extraordinary wardrobe."
(39:00)

The Grand Balls: Fashion's Performative Stage

A highlight of the episode is the exploration of grand balls, particularly the illustrious Vanderbilt Ball of 1883. These events served as performative arenas where fashion was showcased as a statement of wealth, status, and artistic expression.

Cassidy narrates the extravagance of the Vanderbilt Ball, including the creation of the iconic Electric Light Dress by the House of Worth, which featured a battery-powered torch—a marvel of its time.

"The family was rumored to have spent $250,000 on this one night... the electric light dress was made by the House of Worth, custom made with a battery torch."
(40:05 – 42:57)

This segment also discusses the overlap between haute couture and costume design for fancy balls, illustrating the versatility and rapid adaptability of fashion houses to cater to diverse sartorial demands.

"There was overlap and there was no stigma attached to being on one side or the other."
(43:12)

The episode concludes with anecdotes about the challenges of maintaining unique designs, such as duplicate costumes at balls, and the meticulous planning that went into each ensemble.

"The Hornet was especially popular in 1883, and at the Vanderbilt Ball, two women showed up in very similar outfits as hornets... a faux pas."
(44:28)

Conclusion

This episode of Dressed: The History of Fashion offers a comprehensive exploration of the multifaceted nature of French haute couture during the Gilded Age. Through insightful discussions with Dr. Elizabeth Block, listeners gain a deeper appreciation for the collaborative efforts behind iconic fashion and the influential American women who propelled French fashion to international acclaim. The episode not only highlights the artistry and innovation of the era but also underscores the intricate social dynamics that fashion both influenced and reflected.

Notable Quotes:

• Dr. Elizabeth Block:
  "One of the consistent themes of this podcast... is expanding the narratives of fashion history."
  (00:48)

• Cassidy Zachary:
  "What you do in the book is to disrupt the conception of major couturiers of the period as unparalleled geniuses."
  (09:43)

• Cassidy Zachary:
  "Imagine all the seamstresses working all those hours to get these outfits finished... for one evening of wear."
  (43:12)

• Dr. Elizabeth Block:
  "Perfume is part of dress... an intimate part of getting dressed."
  (21:53)

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