Summary of "Leigh Bowery: Phantasmagoric Couturier, an Interview with Fiontán Moran, Part II"
Podcast: Dressed: The History of Fashion
Host: Cassie Zachary and April Callahan
Guest: Fiontán Moran, Curator at Tate Modern
Release Date: May 23, 2025
Duration: Approximately 44 minutes
1. Introduction to Leigh Bowery and the Exhibition
The episode kicks off with Cassie Zachary and April Callahan welcoming back listeners to the second part of their in-depth discussion on Leigh Bowery, the genre-defying artist. They introduce their guest, Fiontán Moran, a curator at Tate Modern, who is instrumental in the museum's current exhibition titled "Leigh Bowery: Exclamation Point," running until August 31, 2025.
Notable Quote:
"Bowery truly was one of those people who put the icon in iconoclast. He was this fresh, original voice like the world had never seen." — April Callahan [01:23]
2. Bowery's Artistic Self-Education and Expression
The conversation delves into Bowery's self-taught background in both fashion design and art. Despite only briefly attending fashion school, Bowery's creations were marked by fantastical and otherworldly silhouettes, showcasing his innate talent and unique vision.
Notable Quote:
"He was pretty much self-taught as both a fashion designer and an artist." — Cassie Zachary [02:36]
3. The Taboo Club and Its Cultural Impact
Fiontán Moran elaborates on Taboo, the iconic nightclub hosted by Leigh Bowery in the mid-1980s at Maximus on Leicester Square. Initially started by Tony Gordon, Bowery soon took over as host, transforming Taboo into "the hottest, sleaziest, campest, bitchiest night of the week." The club became a melting pot for various creatives, including John Galliano, David LaChapelle, and members of the Michael Clark Company, fostering a vibrant and avant-garde atmosphere.
Notable Quote:
"It was decked out for 1970s kind of clientele... creating this kind of clashing aesthetic that perfectly matched the clashing of elements that Lee's designs." — Fiontán Moran [06:20]
4. Bowery's Approach to Gender and Drag Culture
The hosts and Moran discuss Bowery's nuanced relationship with gender performance. While often associated with drag, Bowery never identified strictly as a drag queen. Instead, he deconstructed and reimagined gender norms, using elements of both masculinity and femininity to challenge societal perceptions.
Notable Quotes:
"He doesn't see the fashion industry in terms of male and female. He doesn't really care for that kind of separation." — Fiontán Moran [09:57]
"He forms silhouettes hitherto unseen, some barely human." — Mackenzie Warrick, Exhibition Contributor [12:27]
5. Bowery's Pranks and Persona Construction
A significant portion of the discussion focuses on Bowery's penchant for pranks and creating fictional narratives. These antics were integral to his persona, blurring the lines between reality and performance. From manipulating phone lines to fabricating stories about his whereabouts, Bowery meticulously crafted an enigmatic and provocative image.
Notable Quote:
"Lying was a kind of key part of his way of creating intrigue." — Fiontán Moran [13:31]
6. Collaborations with Michael Clark and Other Artists
Bowery's partnership with choreographer Michael Clark is highlighted as a pivotal collaboration that allowed Bowery to explore his designs within a performative and dynamic context. Their synergy extended to performances where Bowery often assumed the role of a court jester, infusing humor and avant-garde aesthetics into dance.
Notable Quote:
"It gave him a completely new way to think about his designs... challenging the conventions of the dance world." — Fiontán Moran [20:15]
7. Partnership with Lucian Freud
The episode delves into Bowery's unique collaboration with renowned painter Lucian Freud. Contrary to Bowery's expectations of posing in sequins, Freud captured him in a more traditional nude form. This partnership not only provided Bowery with a reflective exploration of his physique but also bridged his avant-garde fashion with the established art world.
Notable Quote:
"The Lucian Freud moment was very key... it kind of sets up an interesting dialogue with what Lee himself was doing." — Fiontán Moran [23:20]
8. Bowery's AIDS Diagnosis and Legacy
In 1988, Bowery was diagnosed with HIV/AIDS, a fact he kept largely private. This period marked a shift in his behavior, intensifying his creative output despite his declining health. His eventual passing on December 31, 1994, sent shockwaves through the creative community, highlighting the profound impact he had on his peers and the legacy he left behind.
Notable Quote:
"Some of them said for them, in many respects, he hasn't gone at all because his presence looms in some ways even larger now than it did when he was alive." — Fiontán Moran [27:58]
9. Highlights from the "Leigh Bowery: Exclamation Point" Exhibition
Fiontán Moran shares insights into the key pieces showcased in the Tate Modern exhibition. Notable ensembles include:
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Levi's Jacket with Hair Grips: Covered in hundreds of hair grips (bobby pins), this jacket exemplifies Bowery's DIY ethos and his ability to transform everyday items into shimmering, fantastical artworks.
Quote:
"The hair grip is almost like a camp version of the safety pin." — Fiontán Moran [32:40]
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Patchwork Brown Jacket: A drab-colored jacket adorned with boot laces, representing the intersection of Bowery's everyday wear and his penchant for unconventional embellishments.
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Harness from the "Birth" Performance: A white satin harness used in Bowery's iconic performance where he simulated giving birth, symbolizing his exploration of gender and identity.
Quote:
"It's made of white satin, but because Nicola was covered in red body paint, it was over time stained this kind of beautiful pinkish reddish tone." — Fiontán Moran [35:12]
10. Bowery's Influence on Modern Fashion
The hosts and Moran discuss Bowery's lasting influence on contemporary fashion designers like John Galliano and Alexander McQueen. His daring silhouettes and boundary-pushing aesthetics have inspired a generation of designers to embrace individuality and theatricality in their creations.
Notable Quote:
"Fashion designers including John Galliano and Lee McQueen have widely acknowledged Bowery's influence on their work." — Cassie Zachary [41:39]
11. Conclusion and Final Thoughts
Cassie and April wrap up the episode by emphasizing Bowery's enduring legacy and the comprehensive documentation of his work through the Tate Modern exhibition. They encourage listeners to explore the exhibition's catalog and engage with additional content on their platforms.
Notable Quote:
"May you consider engaging in a little bit of sartorial provocation next time you get dressed?" — April Callahan [43:07]
Additional Resources
- Exhibition Details: Leigh Bowery: Exclamation Point is currently on view at Tate Modern, London, through August 31, 2025.
- Exhibition Catalog: Available at dressbookshelf.org dressed
- Social Media: Follow Instagram hashtags #dressed542 and #dressed543 for exclusive Bowery content.
This episode offers a profound exploration of Leigh Bowery's multifaceted influence on fashion, art, and culture. Through engaging dialogue and expert insights from Fiontán Moran, listeners gain a comprehensive understanding of Bowery's innovative spirit and his lasting impact on the creative world.