Dressed: The History of Fashion – Episode Summary: "Murderous Millinery (Dressed Classic)"

Released: January 1, 2025

In the captivating episode titled "Murderous Millinery", hosts April Callahan and Cassidy Zachary delve deep into the dark and extravagant history of feather use in women's fashion. This comprehensive exploration highlights the intersection of beauty, culture, and environmental tragedy, painting a vivid picture of how a seemingly innocuous fashion trend led to widespread ecological and ethical repercussions.

1. The Swan Dress Incident and Feather Symbolism

The episode opens with a reference to Bjork's infamous swan dress at the Oscars, serving as a contemporary parallel to historical feather fashions. April notes, “Bjork caused quite the stir when she walked down the Oscar red carpet in the swan dress created by Macedonian designer Marjan Pajosk” (01:46). This event underscores the longstanding fascination with bird-inspired attire.

Historically, feathers have held significant cultural and symbolic value across various civilizations. Cassidy emphasizes, “Birds have held positions of significance in cultures the world over, prized both for their beauty, but also their spiritual and religious associations” (04:44). Examples include the use of the resplendent Quetzal in Mesoamerican societies and ostrich feathers in ancient Egypt, where they symbolized truth and justice.

2. The Plume Boom: Rise of Ornamental Feather Trade

The episode transitions to the late 19th and early 20th centuries, a period marked by the Plume Boom—a surge in the demand for feathers in fashion. April describes this era as the time when “the fashion's demand for feathers threatened to wipe out entire species of birds” (03:11). This meteoric rise in feather use was driven by advancements in mass production, making extravagant feathered accessories more accessible to a broader audience.

Cassidy provides startling statistics: “In a nine-month period in 1911, the London market alone had sold feathers from nearly 21,000 birds of paradise, 40,000 hummingbirds, and 130,000 egrets” (20:12). Such numbers highlight the unsustainable exploitation of bird populations to meet fashion demands.

3. Industrial Practices and Environmental Impact

The hosts discuss the intricate and often brutal processes behind feather collection and preparation. April explains, “The process began with cleaning, followed by bleaching, dyeing, willowing, and finally starching and curling” (24:17). This elaborate procedure transformed raw feathers into fashionable hat adornments but at a significant ecological cost.

William Hornaday’s critical perspective is highlighted through his vehement condemnation: “the blood of uncounted millions of slaughtered birds is upon the heads of the women” (03:11). His 1913 New York Times article, titled "Murderous Millinery," served as a pivotal moment in galvanizing opposition against the feather trade.

4. Cultural and Artistic Flourishing Amid Exploitation

Despite the environmental devastation, the Plume Boom coincided with a flourishing of artistic and cultural expressions in fashion. April reminisces about Queen Marie Antoinette’s elaborate poufs and Gaby Deli’s flamboyant feathered hats, illustrating how feathers became integral to high fashion and personal expression. Cassidy adds, “These hats provided an expansive canvas for hat makers to really exploit their craft and their artistry to the extreme” (29:11).

However, this period was also marked by severe labor exploitation. April recounts harrowing accounts of child labor, where “children knot the tiny flues and make the plumes that pay” (27:37), underscoring the human cost behind the glamour.

5. Activism and the Birth of Conservation Movements

The environmental and ethical backlash against the feather trade gained momentum through the efforts of pioneering women activists. April highlights the foundational role of Harriet Hemenway and Mina Hall: “In 1896, the two Boston socialites set up a series of afternoon teas in hope of convincing their affluent friends to stop wearing birds and feathers on their hats” (34:32). Their initiatives led to the formation of the Massachusetts Audubon Society, which became instrumental in advocating for bird protection.

Cassidy details the legislative successes spurred by the Audubon Society, including the Lacey Act of 1900—the first federal law in the U.S. to protect birds and wildlife by making interstate commerce of protected species illegal (35:10). These efforts culminated in the founding of the National Audubon Society in 1905, which spearheaded nationwide conservation campaigns.

6. Legislative Reforms and Decline of Feather Use in Fashion

The episode traces the gradual decline of feathered fashion, accelerated by both legislative reforms and shifting societal values. April notes, “By 1913, it looked like hats could not get any bigger, they shrunk to a mere fraction of their former size” (40:12), signaling the end of the extravagant feather trend. The outbreak of World War I further suppressed lavish fashion, as practicality took precedence.

Legislative milestones, such as the Migratory Bird Treaty Act of 1918 in the United States and the Plumage Prohibition Act of 1921 in Great Britain, provided robust legal frameworks to protect birds from further exploitation (41:16). Despite resistance from the feather industry, these laws were pivotal in curbing the plume trade.

7. Legacy and Modern-Day Implications

While the grand era of feathered millinery has waned, the legacy of the Plume Boom persists. April mentions Maison Le Marie, a vestige of the once-thriving plumicier trade, now operating with more ethical practices by sourcing non-restrictive feathers (43:40). The episode emphasizes how historical fashion trends can leave lasting impacts on both culture and the environment.

Cassidy concludes by encouraging listeners to support bird protection societies, reinforcing the importance of ethical considerations in modern fashion choices: “If you are interested, you can become a member in any number of one of these bird protection societies” (43:40).

Conclusion

"Murderous Millinery" serves as a poignant reminder of the intricate ties between fashion, culture, and environmental stewardship. Through engaging narratives and compelling historical accounts, April Callahan and Cassidy Zachary illuminate the profound consequences of the feather trade, while also celebrating the resilience of conservation movements that sought to rectify these wrongs. This episode not only educates listeners about a crucial chapter in fashion history but also inspires ongoing reflection on sustainable and ethical practices in today's fashion industry.

Notable Quotes:

• April Callahan (01:46): “Bjork caused quite the stir when she walked down the Oscar red carpet in the swan dress created by Macedonian designer Marjan Pajosk.”

• William Hornaday (03:11): “The blood of uncounted millions of slaughtered birds is upon the heads of the women.”

• Cassidy Zachary (20:12): “In a nine-month period in 1911, the London market alone had sold feathers from nearly 21,000 birds of paradise, 40,000 hummingbirds, and 130,000 egrets.”

• April Callahan (34:32): “In 1896, the two Boston socialites set up a series of afternoon teas in hope of convincing their affluent friends to stop wearing birds and feathers on their hats.”

Stay Tuned: "Dressed: The History of Fashion" promises to return with Season Eight in February 2025, continuing to unravel the intricate threads of fashion history. Whether you're a history enthusiast or a fashion aficionado, this episode offers a profound insight into the transformative power of fashion and its lasting impact on our world.