Dressed: The History of Fashion
Episode: Native Fashion Week Santa Fe with Amber-Dawn Bear Robe
Release Date: May 2, 2025
Introduction
In this captivating episode of Dressed: The History of Fashion, hosts April Callahan and Cassidy Zachary delve into the vibrant world of indigenous fashion through an in-depth conversation with Amber Dawn Barobe, the visionary creator and curator behind the inaugural Native Fashion Week Santa Fe. Released on May 2, 2025, this episode illuminates the rich cultural narratives and pioneering efforts that are shaping the future of indigenous fashion on a global stage.
Celebrating Indigenous Couture
Amber Dawn Barobe shares her profound insights into the origins and evolution of indigenous fashion, emphasizing its deep-rooted history that predates contemporary fashion capitals like Paris and Milan.
[05:12] Amber Dawn Barobe:
"Indigenous artists have been creating one-of-a-kind designs—from earrings and necklaces to garments and coats—since pre-contact. You don't get any more couture than hunting a walrus, gutting it, and transforming its materials into a pristine, life-saving garment tailored for an individual."
Barobe highlights that indigenous fashion has long been a form of couture, intricately tied to cultural practices and environmental materials. She critiques the traditional anthropological lens through which indigenous garments have been viewed, advocating instead for recognition as a legitimate and profound fashion tradition.
The Genesis of Native Fashion Week Santa Fe
Hosted at the Santa Fe Railyard Arts District from May 8th to 11th, Native Fashion Week Santa Fe marks a significant milestone as one of America's largest indigenous fashion showcases. Barobe outlines the event’s multifaceted structure, which includes:
- Over 30 Indigenous Designers: Featuring talent from across Canada and the United States.
- Diverse Models: Representing a wide range of indigenous backgrounds.
- Fashion Panels and Trunk Shows: Facilitating discussions and direct interactions with designers.
- Fashion Film Festival and VIP Lounges: Enhancing the experiential aspect of the event.
- Innovative Venues: Including a VIP media boutique fashion show aboard the Sky Railway.
[03:51] Amber Dawn Barobe:
"Native Fashion Week Santa Fe is happening in the railyard May 8th to 11th. We're featuring over 30 indigenous designers from across Canada and the United States, as well as a diversity of models..."
The inclusion of a VIP media boutique fashion show on the Sky Railway exemplifies the event's commitment to innovation and creating unique experiences for attendees.
Honoring Pioneers and Emerging Voices
Barobe pays tribute to trailblazers who have laid the foundation for today's indigenous fashion movement. She references designers like Lloyd Kevin Yu, Dorothy Grant, and Pamela Baker, whose early efforts brought indigenous couture into mainstream fashion circles.
[07:37] Amber Dawn Barobe:
"You could go back to Lloyd Kevin Yu in the Southwest, who's really instrumental in bringing couture outside of native country into the New York fashion scene... Dorothy Grant and Pamela Baker from the '80s..."
She underscores the need for continued research and recognition of lesser-known designers from the '50s through the '80s, advocating for a more comprehensive historical narrative.
Exhibitions and Expanding Horizons
Barobe discusses her ongoing curatorial work, including the Indigenous Futurisms and Fashion and Art exhibition at the Autry Museum of the American West in Los Angeles. She emphasizes the importance of showcasing indigenous fashion alongside other art forms to highlight its cultural significance.
[08:40] Amber Dawn Barobe:
"The Autry Museum... Indigenous Futurisms and Fashion and Art is just in a nutshell what the show is about. It includes indigenous fashion as well as art, visual arts, installation art..."
Looking ahead, Barobe reveals plans for future exhibitions in Florida, Tennessee, and Toronto, aiming to broaden the reach and impact of indigenous fashion.
Embracing Diversity Within Indigenous Fashion
A key theme of the episode is the vast diversity within indigenous cultures and how this richness is reflected in their fashion expressions. Barobe illustrates how geography and cultural heritage influence design aesthetics, ensuring that each collection is unique.
[10:23] April Callahan:
"Something that you've often spoken to too, and that's so evident on the Runway, is that indigenous culture is not a monolith."
She provides examples of designers from Alaska and California, each bringing distinct perspectives and influences to their work, thereby celebrating the multifaceted nature of indigenous identity.
Spotlight on Designers
Barobe highlights several notable designers participating in Native Fashion Week Santa Fe:
- Dorothy Grant: A foundational designer known for her groundbreaking work.
- Lauren Goodday & Leslie Hampton: Emerging talents making their mark on fashion runways.
- Douglas Miles of Apache Skateboards: Bringing a fusion of indigenous design and skate culture.
- Alex Vigil Apparel: Offering upcycled, couture denim wear with a fresh, creative edge.
- Nonami: An Ojibwe artist whose paper and recycled material creations add a bold, graphic dimension to the collection.
[12:09] Amber Dawn Barobe:
"Dorothy Grant will be on one of our fashion panels doing a book signing... We also have some new faces coming to the Runway... Alex Vigil is based in Santa Fe... Nonami... makes pieces entirely out of recycled and found materials."
Panels and Industry Engagement
The event features insightful panels moderated by influential figures in the fashion industry, including:
- Stephen Kolb of the CFDA: Engaging in discussions with pioneers like Jamie Okuma, the first indigenous designer to join the CFDA.
- Christian Allaire: Vogue staff writer and vocal advocate for indigenous fashion.
- Rebecca Baker Grainer and Kelly Holmes of Native Max Magazine: Contributing to dynamic conversations about the future of indigenous design.
[15:28] Amber Dawn Barobe:
"Stephen Kolb... will be one of the key fashion panelists on May 9th, talking with Jamie Okuma..."
These panels aim to foster dialogue between indigenous designers and the broader fashion industry, promoting inclusivity and recognition.
Future Aspirations and Community Support
Barobe articulates a bold vision for Native Fashion Week Santa Fe to evolve into a biannual event, establishing Santa Fe as a recognized fashion capital specializing in indigenous design. She calls for sponsorships and partnerships to support economic empowerment within indigenous communities, extending beyond designers to models, photographers, and other industry professionals.
[18:06] Amber Dawn Barobe:
"The larger vision for Native Fashion Week Santa Fe is to truly make Santa Fe a fashion capital... We're always looking for sponsorship and partnership..."
Additionally, Barobe emphasizes the importance of accessibility, offering live streaming and on-demand viewing options to reach a global audience.
Conclusion
This episode of Dressed: The History of Fashion not only celebrates the launch of Native Fashion Week Santa Fe but also underscores the enduring legacy and dynamic future of indigenous fashion. Through Amber Dawn Barobe's passionate leadership, the event promises to be a pivotal platform for showcasing indigenous creativity, fostering industry connections, and empowering communities.
[19:44] Amber Dawn Barobe:
"The tickets are almost sold out, but we also have live streaming video on demand bundle packages. So if you can't make it, there's still ways to watch all the exciting programming."
Listeners are encouraged to support the movement by attending the event, purchasing directly from designers, and engaging with the broader indigenous fashion community.
Resources & Further Information:
- Native Fashion Week Santa Fe Tickets & Streaming: nativefashionweeksantafe.com
- Follow Native Fashion Week Santa Fe on Instagram: @nativefashionweeksf
- Featured Designers: Detailed profiles and links available on the event website and show notes.
Thank you for tuning into this episode of Dressed: The History of Fashion. Join us next time as we continue to explore the rich tapestry of fashion history and its cultural significance.