Dressed: The History of Fashion Episode: Superfine: Tailoring Black Style with Monica L. Miller, Part II Release Date: June 6, 2025

In this compelling episode of Dressed: The History of Fashion, hosts April Callahan and Cassidy Zachary engage in a profound dialogue with Dr. Monica L. Miller, the esteemed guest curator of the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s groundbreaking exhibition, Superfine: Tailoring Black Style. This exhibition marks the Costume Institute’s first menswear-focused display in two decades, offering a historical and cultural exploration of Black style through the nuanced lens of Dandyism.

Exhibition Overview

April Callahan introduces the exhibition as a non-chronological journey through twelve meticulously curated sections, each unraveling different facets of Black Dandyism. This structure allows visitors to traverse the past, present, and future of Black style seamlessly. April remarks, “[...] there is a movement to it that moves you in time” (02:28).

Dr. Monica L. Miller elaborates on the exhibition’s foundation, emphasizing how Black Dandyism emerged at the intersection of African and Western sartorial traditions during the onset of the slave trade. She states, “Black Dandyism's origins as the moment when African and Western traditions and hierarchies of dress and adornment meet” (03:27).

Ownership and Presence

The exhibition begins in the 18th century, detailing how Black men subverted imposed dress codes as acts of radical self-expression. Two pivotal garments—a livery coat trimmed with gold lace and another adorned with silver buttons bearing an enslaver’s coat of arms—are juxtaposed alongside symbolic coins. Monica explains, “This creates a conversation about being fashioned and fashioning the self” (03:27).

Distinction and Disguise

Moving into the 19th century, the themes of distinction and disguise illustrate the duality of fashion as both a tool for asserting individuality and a means of concealment. Monica highlights the Haitian Revolution as a critical moment where Black military leaders like Toussaint L’Ouverture utilized traditional French military attire to symbolize self-liberation: “[...] these garments take on a very different meaning related to the frisson of self-liberation” (11:25).

Freedom

A standout narrative within the exhibition is the story of William and Ellen Craft, an enslaved couple who ingeniously used fashion to orchestrate their escape. Monica recounts, “Ellen and William assembled clothing that allowed them to masquerade seamlessly as a white gentleman and his servant” (15:32). Despite a minor setback involving an overly conspicuous beaver hat, their meticulous preparation underscores fashion’s transformative power.

Champion

The Champion section delves into the rich history of Black jockeys in the 19th century, who dominated horse racing before facing racial discrimination that marginalized them from the sport. Monica shares, “Black jockeys were the most successful in the sport, winning the majority of Kentucky Derby races” (23:09). The exhibition features historic jockey silks, showcasing their exceptional tailoring skills and cultural significance.

Respectability

Fashion serves as a strategic tool for Black intellectuals like Frederick Douglass and W.E.B. Du Bois to assert respectability and gain access to influential spaces. Monica notes, “Frederick Douglass’s dignified presentation was integral to his rhetorical power” (28:11). The curated garments, including Douglass’s tailcoat and monogrammed shirt, symbolize their quest for civil and human rights through impeccable style.

Juke: Uninhabited Joy

Celebrating the exuberant spirit of the Harlem Renaissance, the Juke section spotlights the zoot suit and tuxedo as embodiments of unrestrained joy and self-expression. Monica discusses iconic figures like Gladys Bentley, a blues musician known for her gender-defying performances: “Gladys was offering alternative ways of being through her self-styled attire and music” (38:16).

Heritage

The Heritage section emphasizes the fusion of Western tailoring with traditional African dress, highlighting the enduring legacy of African regality. Monica highlights Andre Leon Talley’s caftan by Nigerian designer Patience Torloway as a testament to this hybridization: “African regality can be claimed even by people separated from the continent by hundreds of years” (42:14).

Beauty and Cool

Spanning the 1960s to the 1980s, this section explores the transformation of Black menswear influenced by Black musicians and cultural shifts. Monica reflects, “Fashion became more casual and began to incorporate elements traditionally associated with feminine dress, challenging conventional masculinity” (43:45). This era marked a departure from the traditional suit, embracing vibrant, eclectic styles that symbolized independence and decolonization.

Cosmopolitanism

Concluding the exhibition, the Cosmopolitanism section invites visitors to consider the global influence of Black Dandyism and its ties to the African diaspora’s movement. Monica envisions this as an ongoing dialogue, fostering connections across continents and generations: “[...] think about travel, migration, movement, and this sort of dynamism” (48:01).

Key Insights and Quotes

• Dr. Monica L. Miller: “Black Dandyism's origins as the moment when African and Western traditions and hierarchies of dress and adornment meet” (03:27).

• April Callahan: “The exhibition is not chronological. There is a movement to it that moves you in time” (02:28).

• Dr. Monica L. Miller: “Frederick Douglass’s dignified presentation was integral to his rhetorical power” (28:11).

• Dr. Monica L. Miller: “Gladys was offering alternative ways of being through her self-styled attire and music” (38:16).

Conclusion

Dr. Monica L. Miller encapsulates the essence of Superfine: Tailoring Black Style by emphasizing its role in highlighting the resilience, creativity, and profound cultural impact of Black Dandyism. The exhibition not only showcases historical garments but also celebrates the ongoing evolution and significance of Black style in shaping societal narratives and personal identities.

Listeners are encouraged to visit the exhibition before its extended run until October 26th and explore further through the accompanying exhibition catalog, enriched with essays from prominent Black scholars and fashion historians.

Note: This summary omits all advertisement segments and focuses solely on the substantive content of the podcast episode.