Podcast Summary: "Tailored For You" - Dressed: The History of Fashion
Episode: "Fashions from the 2025 Met Gala Blue Carpet, Part II"
Release Date: May 9, 2025

Introduction

In the second part of their extensive coverage of the 2025 Met Gala, hosts Cassie Zachary and April Callahan delve deeper into the event's rich celebration of Black dandyism and the intricate tailoring showcased on the Blue Carpet. This episode, titled "Tailored For You," offers an insightful exploration of the cultural and historical significance behind the fashion statements made during the gala.

Homage to Black Dandyism

The Zoot Suit Revival

Cassie opens the discussion by highlighting the resurgence of the zoot suit, a garment deeply rooted in Black and Latinx culture. She explains, “[00:00] The zoot suit is considered the first truly American suit by design...” The zoot suit’s distinctive long, oversized coat with wide lapels and padded shoulders, paired with high-waisted peg-legged trousers, made a powerful statement on the red carpet. Originally popularized in the 1930s by jazz musicians like Cab Calloway and later adopted by Mexican American youth during World War II, the zoot suit symbolizes resistance and defiance against societal norms—a theme that resonated powerfully at the gala.

Teyana Taylor’s Statement Ensemble

One of the standout mentions is Teyana Taylor’s homage to Black dandyism. Cassie describes her ensemble in detail: “She’s wearing this burgundy fedora with this huge ostrich feather... paired with this gray and burgundy pinstriped zoot suit” (04:30). The collaboration between costume designer Paul Tazewell, Todd Brown, and Ruth Carter resulted in a look that is both a fashion history homage and a contemporary statement piece. April adds her perspective, noting that while the ensemble was visually stunning, it may have been a bit overwhelming with too many elements competing for attention (04:33).

Dapper Dan’s Iconic Presence

Dapper Dan, a legendary figure in the fashion industry, was another focal point of the gala. Cassie provides a brief history: “He opened up a custom clothing business in Harlem in the 1980s... collaborating with Gucci since 2017” (07:25). April elaborates on his ensemble, a fully sequined suit featuring his newly debuted logo—a heart-shaped scroll with two intertwined "D"s representing Dapper Dan (09:15). This logo is imbued with cultural significance, referencing the Sankofa symbol from Ghana’s Akan society, symbolizing learning from the past to build a better future. Dapper Dan’s presence underscored the gala’s celebration of Black dandyism and his pivotal role in shaping contemporary fashion.

Collaborations with Black Designers

Kendall Jenner and Torres Shaeju Dumi

A surprising highlight was Kendall Jenner’s ensemble, which initially seemed understated but revealed deeper collaboration upon closer inspection. Cassie notes, “She collaborated with the black British designer Torres Shaeju Dumi... inspired by the queer nightclub singer Gladys Bentley” (17:20). This collaboration paid tribute to Bentley’s pioneering embrace of tailoring and her legacy in the Harlem Renaissance, blending traditional Nigerian influences with British tailoring techniques. April praises the sustainability aspect, mentioning the use of deadstock fabric and the extensive craftsmanship involved (18:28).

Jordan Roth’s Laquan Smith Collaboration

Another notable collaboration was Jordan Roth’s outfit, designed in partnership with Laquan Smith. April describes it as a "silk satin suit with a multi-layered Stephen Jones hat" that exemplifies Roth’s penchant for thoughtful and high-fashion collaborations (18:24). This ensemble represented the pinnacle of tailored artistry, marrying avant-garde design with classic tailoring elements.

Sustainability in Fashion

Lauryn Hill’s Ensemble by Chaney Chan

Sustainability was a recurring theme, exemplified by Lauryn Hill’s stunning outfit designed by the self-taught Chinese couturier Chaney Chan. April describes the suit: “It has an enormous undulating, layered wave of chiffon that swoops behind one side of her head and trails into a long train” (24:04). Additionally, the jewelry was crafted by Ametha Cole, a curator at the Victoria and Albert Museum, using 100% recycled metals and jewels (25:56). This blend of haute couture and sustainable practices highlighted the gala’s commitment to environmentally conscious fashion.

Natasha Poonawalla’s Handcrafted Ensemble

Cassie discusses Natasha Poonawalla’s ensemble, designed by Manish Malhotra using vintage Parsigara sarees. She explains the intricate Parsi Ghara embroidery technique, which intertwines Persian and Chinese influences, showcasing a dedication to preserving cultural heritage through sustainable fashion practices (32:39). Despite initial reservations about the ensemble's elaborate ruff, Cassie acknowledges the beauty and historical significance once the textile details were understood.

Honoring Andre Leon Talley

The gala paid tribute to the late Andre Leon Talley, a towering figure in fashion history. Cassie mentions several attendees who echoed his legacy through their attire, notably Anne Hathaway and Colman Domingo, who wore looks reminiscent of Talley’s signature caftans (14:35). This homage underscored the profound impact Talley had on the fashion world and the ongoing influence of Black dandies in shaping modern style narratives.

Fashion Successes and Misses

Successes

The hosts celebrated numerous successful fashion moments that aligned with the gala’s themes. Jeff Goldblum’s ensemble was particularly highlighted for its joyful embodiment of tailored elegance, crafted by Grace Wales Bonner (38:22). Meanwhile, Beyoncé’s choice to embrace the Cowboy Carter Tour theme added a unique twist to traditional red carpet looks (35:59).

Misses

Conversely, Cassie and April also critiqued some fashion choices that didn’t resonate with the gala’s objectives. Cassie expressed disappointment in Nicole Kidman’s Balenciaga look, Kim Kardashian’s Chrome Hearts ensemble, and Charli XCX’s sloppy goth attire, noting these choices lacked the thoughtful engagement with Black dandyism that the event aimed to celebrate (34:15; 36:15).

Humorous and Memorable Moments

The gala was not without its lighter moments. April recounted a humorous interaction where Madonna was playfully slapped on the ass by Stella McCartney (38:03). Additionally, Jeff Goldblum’s exuberant display while showcasing his outfit added a touch of pure joy to the evening (38:53), demonstrating how fashion can elevate spirits and create memorable experiences.

Conclusion and Future Content

As the hosts wrapped up their Met Gala coverage, they hinted at ongoing discussions related to Black dandyism and future episodes exploring various facets of fashion history. Cassie expressed excitement about upcoming interviews and collaborations, while April encouraged listeners to engage with their content on social media and through their website (39:24; 40:03).

Notable Quotes

• Cassie Zachary: “The zoot suit is considered the first truly American suit by design... It comes with a powerful history...” (02:10)

• April Callahan: “I think there's too many elements happening here all at once...” (06:20)

• Dapper Dan: “All those years when I was underground and working with those European brands symbols, I came to understand just how powerful they were...” (09:40)

• Torres Shaeju Dumi: “You can see in the detail the way the shirt wraps around the body and hangs over the shoulders. That's what I wanted to emulate in Kendall's blazer.” (21:09)

• Ametha Cole: “Within her work, she uses 100% recycled metals and jewels. All of her designs are rooted in the processes of nature and the notion of belonging.” (26:11)

Final Thoughts

"Dressed: The History of Fashion" masterfully intertwines the historical significance of Black dandyism with contemporary fashion expressions showcased at the 2025 Met Gala. Through detailed analyses, personal insights, and critical evaluations, Cassie Zachary and April Callahan provide listeners with a comprehensive understanding of how fashion serves as a powerful medium for cultural expression and historical homage.

For more insights and detailed explorations of fashion history, follow Dressed on Instagram at @essedpodcast and visit their website at dressedhistory.com.