Podcast Summary

Dressed: The History of Fashion

Episode: 'Tis the Season I: Fashion History Gift Hits (and Misses) (Dressed Classic)

Date: December 24, 2025
Hosts: April Callahan & Cassidy (Cass) Zachary

Episode Overview

This festive episode from the “Dressed: The History of Fashion” podcast dives into the social, cultural, and historical traditions behind holiday gifting, with a specific focus on “gift hits and misses” from the 19th and 20th centuries. April and Cass exchange imaginary historical gifts sourced from period gift guides in Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue, offering a spirited and often humorous commentary on ever-changing gifting norms, while addressing what makes a hit or a regrettable miss in holiday gift-giving through history.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

Holiday Traditions and Decorating (01:30–03:29)

• Pet Owners’ Holiday Woes: The hosts open with personal anecdotes about their struggles decorating for the holidays due to mischievous pets, setting a relatable and jovial tone.
  • Cass shares about her seven-foot vintage 1950s aluminum Christmas tree she can’t put up because her dog Clementine would eat the metal leaves.
  • April recounts her sister’s cat pulling down their Christmas tree.
  • Quotes:
    • “She always wants to steal my bath towels and my kitchen towels and like, anything you drop on the floor.” (Cass, 02:35)
    • “So yes, we are decorated this year, just not as much.” (April, 02:01)

The History of Gift Guides (03:55–05:35)

• Gift Guides Past and Present: The practice of publishing holiday gift guides isn’t new—media outlets have done this since at least the 19th century, notably the Victorians who laid the groundwork for modern Christmas traditions.
• Research Methods: Cass limited her survey to Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue, selecting gifts from 1860s to the 1970s.

Historical Gift Exchange Showcase

1. The Chatelaine (1868) – [05:46–08:53]

• What is it? A fashionable, utilitarian accessory for women (like a belt hanger with tools).
• Special Feature: Some included “vinaigrettes”—mini aromatic boxes carrying perfumed sponges to mask unpleasant odors.
• Historical Insight: The vinaigrette has a 700-year lineage, echoing Medieval pomanders and earlier scented boxes for health and fragrance.
• Cost: $100–$200 in today’s money.
• Quote:
  • “A vinaigrette may be completely obscure today, but these little objects were popular for much longer than they have not been popular.” (Cass, 08:17)

2. Cycling Equipment (1896) – [09:24–10:55]

• For Bicycles (the “wheel”): Silver cyclometer case, bell, and tool bag with nameplate.
• Cultural Moment: Reflects the 1890s craze for bicycles and the attendant etiquette.
• Gendered Fashion: “Only the trouser guards are limited to sex.” (April, 09:36)
• Value: Around $300 today.

3. Trouser Stretchers (1903) – [10:55–12:53]

• Function: Devices to keep trousers wrinkle-free during travel.
• Design: Buckram/canvas with springs and clamps—rolled into a barrel.
• Relatable Commentary: Hosts compare to their modern travel steamers.
• Quote: “I always have a hard problem packing clothing.” (April, 12:22)

4. Golden Garters (1924) – [15:43–16:06]

• Luxury Hosiery Accessories: Gold-mounted, designed to keep stockings snug—pricey at almost $400 in today’s dollars.
• Fashion Context: Iconic 1920s flapper item; triggers callback to their “Dissecting the Flapper” episode.

5. Jeweled Service Pin (1942) – [16:06–17:44]

• Sentimental Jewelry: Ruby, sapphire, and diamond pin marketed for wives and mothers of WWII servicemen.
• Cultural Note: Reflects the era’s patriotism and emotional gift value.
• Cost: Approx. $675 in today’s dollars.

6. Ocarina for Servicemen (1942) – [17:44–18:38]

• Musical Gift: Ancient wind instrument, recommended for troops stationed abroad.
• Fun Fact: Recognized today by fans of the “Legend of Zelda” video game series.

7. Boozy 1950s Holiday Drinks – [18:38–22:09]

• Tom and Jerry & Syllabub: Traditional holiday recipes, heavy on the eggs, sugar, cream, and alcohol.
• Historical Context: Syllabub dates back to the 16th century; making it “from the cow” involves milking directly into sweetened cider.

8. 1960s Butcher’s Rack as Decor (1962) – [22:09–23:42]

• Unexpected Gift Suggestion: Vogue recommends a repurposed butcher’s rack as an entryway organizer.
• Reactions: The hosts find this macabre and a design miss—especially with its implied function of hanging suits of armor!
• Quote: “Who has suits of armor, let alone spare suits of armor?” (Cassie, 23:06)

Gifts To Avoid (23:44–24:57)

• Repeated Recommendations: For decades, gift guides advised against giving robes, socks, and slippers—considered unoriginal and overdone.
• Modern Relatability: Cass admits she just bought socks for her stepdad, but personalizes them with his name—making the case for thoughtful exceptions.
• Fun Memory: Cass recalls gifting April “Clueless” socks as a playful nod to the 90s.

Gifts Now Considered Illegal or Impractical (25:00–26:59)

• Materials Now Banned: Many 19th-century gift sets featured now-illegal ivory and tortoiseshell.
• The Extravagant 1970s Tennis Court: Vogue’s guide once suggested gifting a heated, lit platform tennis court—price tag up to ~$160,000 today.
• Quote: “I don’t think that I’m going to be gifting you a tennis court this particular year or maybe ever.” (Cassie, 26:59)

Responding to Unwanted Gifts (26:59–27:40)

• Passive-Aggressive Thank You’s: The hosts delight in witty, polite ways to express dismay at unwanted gifts, as found in a 1972 Vogue article.
  • Example: “So few people have your taste.”
  • Example: “My friends were absolutely flabbergasted.”
  • “I've always fancied myself articulate, but words fail me.”
  • “Of course, I never would have bought this for myself.”
• Quotes:
  • “Passive aggressive ways to say you don't like something.” (April, 27:40)

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On historical obscurities:
  • “A vinaigrette may be completely obscure today, but these little objects were popular for much longer than they have not been popular.” (Cassie, 08:17)
• On questionable gift suggestions:
  • “Why would they be recommending gifting a butcher's rack to anyone? ... who has suits of armor, let alone spare suits of armor?” (Cassie, 23:06)
• On the longevity of “bad” gifts:
  • “Slippers are a sad mistake,” proclaims Harper’s Bazaar in 1894. (Cassie, 24:18)
• On the absurdity of luxury gifts:
  • “Want to be a sport for Christmas? One of the ways to increase winter recreational possibilities is to install a platform tennis court on one’s own acreage ... for around $23,000.” (Cassie, 25:38)
• Witty responses to unwanted gifts:
  • “My dear, so few people have your taste.” (Vogue via April, 27:28)
  • “I've always fancied myself articulate, but worlds fail me.” (Vogue via Cassie, 27:35)

Segment Timestamps (Key Segments Only)

• 01:30–03:29: Pet holiday woes and decorating traditions
• 05:46–08:53: The 1868 chatelaine and the history of carrying scents
• 09:24–10:55: 1896: Cycling accessories as luxury gifts
• 10:55–12:53: 1903: Trouser stretchers for travelers
• 15:43–16:06: 1924: Golden garters and 1920s flapper fashion
• 16:06–17:44: 1942: WWII jeweled service pin
• 17:44–18:38: 1940s: The ocarina gift for servicemen
• 18:38–22:09: 1950s: Holiday drinks “Tom and Jerry” and syllabub
• 22:09–23:42: 1962: Butcher's rack as a questionable decorative gift
• 23:44–24:57: Gifts to avoid (socks, slippers, robes) and why
• 25:00–26:59: Gifts made from illegal materials, 1970s luxury tennis court
• 26:59–27:40: How to thank someone for a gift you hate

Conclusion and Tone

The episode is lively, humorous, and steeped in fascinating fashion history, with the hosts playing off each other’s wit and using archival sources to both amuse and inform. Their back-and-forth banter keeps things light as they travel through more than a century of gifting trends and faux pas. They also anchor the episode in contemporary relevance—reminding listeners that some gifting “misses” (like socks and slippers) remain persistent themes, and that even seemingly absurd or opulent gifts often say a lot about the values and quirks of their eras.

Takeaway

This episode offers an entertaining lens on the evolution of holiday gifting and a reminder to consider both the spirit and context of the gifts we give—and the gracious ways we might respond when confronted with a miss from well-meaning friends or family.

End of Summary