Dressed: The History of Fashion

Episode: 'Tis the Season V: Fashion History Gift Hits (and Misses)

Hosts: April Callahan and Cassidy Zachary
Date: December 19, 2025

Episode Overview

In this festive season finale of Dressed's eighth season, hosts April Callahan and Cassidy Zachary continue their beloved tradition of “Fashion History Gift Hits (and Misses).” This light-hearted, imaginative episode—the fifth in its series (“Tis the Season V”)—centers on the hosts exchanging fantasy gifts from across fashion history, describing whimsical period ensembles, and reflecting on the stories behind these treasures. The pair indulge in historical deep-dives, charming banter, and a few laughs as they play “Fashion History Fantasy Land.” This year’s episode is packed with surprising anecdotes, inventive gift ideas (hits and definite misses!), and insights into the social and cultural history of how we adorn ourselves.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

[03:05] Fantastical Fashion Ensembles: What the Hosts Are “Wearing”

April Callahan’s Look

Theme: Drawing inspiration from her upcoming Schiaparelli class, April curates an ensemble echoing “hard chic” and classical Greek luxury.
Dress: Deep chocolate brown Schiaparelli evening dress (wool crepe, Winter 1935–36, V&A Museum)
- “An evening dress of brown woolen crepe, floor length, high necked, with a gathered bodice and circular trapunto quilting over each breast. Six rows of gold braid encircle the slim columnar full skirt at regular intervals from the waist down.” (April, 03:26)
Jewelry:
- Gold Grecian earrings (c. 200 BCE, Hellenic period — 3-inch gold dangles with garnet insets)
- Matching gold serpentine armbands (c. 200 BCE, V&A): “These imposing serpentine armbands represent two tritons, male and female, each holding a small winged Eros.” (April, 06:03)
Shoes: Gold leather André Perugia wedges (1940, FIT collection) — “Some of his signature shoes which do not have a last…a beautiful voided shape.” (April, 07:34; Cassidy, 07:34)

Cassidy Zachary’s Look

Era: Circa 1830, themed around her upcoming class “What Women Wore to the Revolution.”
Dress: Circa 1830 gigot (leg-of-mutton) sleeve evening gown, LACMA collection
- Pale pink silk organza/satin with imitation pearls, glass beads, and a pink sash, noted for huge sleeves and wheat embroidery.
- “Bulbous gigot sleeves...have this beautiful detailing. It's pleated at the shoulder seam...and it's also embroidered with the most beautiful, I guess, is that an ear of wheat?” (Cassidy, 09:36)
Shoes: Contemporary artisan brand Pavilion Parade (made from antique textiles and trims, rose and gold slippers)
- “Rose bouquet Versailles...created from a circa 1850 quote French silk jacquard narrow border panel with pink roses and dull gold garlands...” (Cassidy, 11:08)
Jewelry:
- Huge diamond bow brooch and pearl diadem once owned by Empress Eugénie (borrowed from the Louvre) — “The brooch contains 4,000 diamonds…The diadem was made in 1853...212 pearls and almost 2,000 diamonds.” (Cassidy, 13:00)

Notable Style Moment

April: “I have been skulking around the recessed corners of every museum in the world pulling Schiaparelli images in preparation for you all.” (05:00)
Cassidy on sleeves: “This decade…with the gigot sleeve is just such an absolutely wild silhouette, I think, especially to our contemporary eyes. Right.” (10:06)

[16:44] The Gift Exchange: Fashion History’s (Hits & Misses)

April's Gifts to Cassidy

1. The Marie Antoinette Switch (19th Century Hairpiece) [17:15]

Inspired by popular Gilded Age hair trends, this “switch” (hairpiece) from an 1877 Harper’s Bazaar ad promised to form “any kind of [style], front or back within a few minutes.”
“Ladies buying one will be taught free of charge how to arrange the same from $6 upward…about $180 today and up.” (April, 17:44)
Not a literal connection to Marie Antoinette, but used her name for 19th-century cachet. Cassidy guesses the function: “So it's some sort of hairpiece.” (Cassidy, 18:42)

2. Fabergé Pickle Scent Bottle (1890) [23:08]

An opulent, whimsical perfume bottle shaped like a pickle, crafted from nephrite jade/gold/diamonds by Fabergé.
“It is the most adorable thing that I've ever seen...sold in 2007 for £66,000…today about a quarter of a million dollars.” (April, 24:30)
Mini history lesson: Fabergé founded 1842, nationalized 1917, revived as luxury brand in 2007.

3. Animal Bath & Curious 18th-Century Health Book [27:48]

From a 1910 Ladies Home Journal column, April gifts Cassidy a fictional “animal bath” (milk/fats/oil/blood—no water).
She supplements with a rare beauty manual: “Curiosities of Common Water” (1723), which advocates drinking water as a health cure and contains… peculiar recommendations.
- “This entire book is basically trying to convince people to drink water...He also recommends eat no suppers. None who have refrained from suppers have ever been found to die in their sleep.” (April, 31:30)

4. Audrey Hepburn’s ‘Sabrina’ Earrings (1954) [37:45]

Costume jewelry, worn in one of film’s most iconic eveningwear scenes, by renowned Hollywood designer Joseph of Hollywood.
“Gold plate earrings composed of clear gemstones clustered in the shape of flowers with dangling teardropped faux pearls…” (April, 37:52)
The story behind the Sabrina costume-design Oscar rivalry between Edith Head and Hubert de Givenchy.

5. Bonus: Striped Wool Nose Warmer (1965) [25:16]

A “kooky but practical” striped wool nose cozy (from Hanover House Mail Order), once a college student fad.
“It even has a tassel on the nose and it's for your nose to be worn over it and then it is tied around the back of the head.” (Cassidy as April describes, 25:30)
“It was also known as a snoot boot...fits any size nose.” (Cassidy, 27:22)

Cassidy's Gifts to April

1. Schiaparelli Smoking Gloves (1939) [21:21]

Rust suede gloves designed by Elsa Schiaparelli, with slots for individual matches and a striker board on the cuff.
“There is a column around the wrist...you can put your individual matches. And then there is a striking board on the wrist.” (Cassidy, 21:21)
“Obviously I'm stealing this for my Schiaparelli class!” (April, 22:20)
Quirky, historic multi-functionality; inspired by a tip from @visualsustenance on Instagram.

2. Medicinal/Beauty Gift Basket (19th/Early 20th Century) [32:09]

In tongue-in-cheek fashion, Cassidy assembles a package of historical “beauty aids”:
- Joy’s Cigarettes (asthma/cough remedy): “They may be safely smoked by ladies and children.” (Cassidy, 33:01)
- Radior “Toilette Requisites” (c. 1919, beauty products with radioactive radium): “...first toilette preparations to embody actual radium, an astonishing new force for betterment.” (Cassidy, 34:37)
- Dr. Campbell’s Arsenic Complexion Wafers (1890): “To maintain your clear, fresh complexion...I am gifting you Dr. Campbell's entirely safe arsenic complexion wafers.” (Cassidy, 37:07)
Historic references to dubious/quack beauty cures and dangers of pre-regulation cosmetics.
- “I think wearing radioactive cosmetics products would make you vanish.” (April, 35:30)

3. Ring Commemorating Clementine, April’s French Bulldog [43:32]

Custom-commissioned 19th-century style reverse painted dog ring by artist William Essex.
- “The reverse of a cabochon rock crystal is carefully hand carved...then it's painted, forming a fine three-dimensional image…Clem's image is backed with mother of pearl...in all her glory in a 15 carat yellow gold mount.” (Cassidy, 43:38)
April links this to items often found at iconic Parisian auction house Drouot.

Notable Quotes & Moments

On playful historical dressing:
“I have been skulking around the recessed corners of every museum in the world pulling Schiaparelli images in preparation for you all.” —April (05:00)
On the extravagance of the fantasy:
“No holds barred, no expense spared...dress listeners, this is the final episode of season eight!” —April (01:49)
On historical oddities:
“So if you have any of the above [diseases], drink some water. According to John Smith.” —April (32:01)
On beauty standards and danger:
“I am gifting you Dr. Campbell's entirely safe arsenic complexion wafers.” —Cassidy (37:07)
On Hollywood jewelry:
“So your earrings, Cass. Originally the auction estimate on these was 2 to $3,000. Do you want to venture a guess as to the actual hammer price?...$19,000.” —April (42:45)
On enduring podcast friendship:
“It is always such a gift for us, and the real gift is you.” —Cassidy (47:05)

Timestamps for Key Segments

[01:15] Episode Introduction & Purpose
[03:05] Imaginary Holiday Ensembles Described
[16:44] Opening the Fantasy Gift Exchange
[21:21] Notable Gift: Schiaparelli Smoking Gloves
[23:08] Notable Gift: Fabergé Pickle Scent Bottle
[25:16] Notable Gift: 1960s Wool Nose Warmer
[27:48] Notable Gift: Animal Bath & Curious Beauty Book
[32:09] Cassidy’s Medicinal/Beauty Gift Basket
[37:45] Notable Gift: Audrey Hepburn’s ‘Sabrina’ Earrings
[43:32] Notable Gift: Clementine’s Portrait Ring
[47:05] Season Wrap-Up & Heartfelt Thanks

Tone & Style Highlights

Warm, witty, and deeply knowledgeable: April and Cassidy are candid about fashion history’s triumphs and foibles, mixing scholarship with good-natured teasing.
Deep Playfulness: The gift exchange is both an imaginative exercise and an excuse for obscure history dives (“I am gifting you a pickle. Not any pickle. A Fabergé pickle.” —April, 23:08).
Affectionate Friendship: Their banter reflects true camaraderie—“It was not expected in the 1830s from you today. But maybe that’s better for the context of our party…” (April, 13:34).
Sly, critical humor: Especially when discussing questionable historical beauty practices: “I think wearing radioactive cosmetics products would make you vanish.” (April, 35:30)

For the Listener Who Missed the Episode

This holiday episode is the ultimate treat for both fashion history buffs and new listeners alike. April and Cassidy revel in their annual tradition of gifting each other rare and peculiar objects from across the centuries—most delightful (Audrey Hepburn’s earrings, a Fabergé pickle), others eyebrow-raising (arsenic wafers, radium cream, wooly nose warmers). Each gift opens a door into fashion’s social, cultural, or technological evolution and is accompanied by details, context, and plenty of laughter.

The episode is a testament to the ongoing fun, creativity, and deep curiosity that fuel Dressed. As the hosts sign off for the season, they invite listeners to cherish the joy (and sometimes absurdity) of getting dressed, and to follow along on social media (#dressed575) for visual companions to their fantasy gifts.

Further Exploration

For images of gifts/ensembles: Instagram @dressed_podcast | Facebook @dressedpodcast | #dressed575
Book recommendations: bookshop.org/shop/dressed
Courses, tours, newsletter: dressedhistory.com

End of Episode Summary

Dressed: The History of Fashion

Episode: 'Tis the Season V: Fashion History Gift Hits (and Misses)

Hosts: April Callahan and Cassidy Zachary
Date: December 19, 2025

Episode Overview

Key Discussion Points & Insights

[03:05] Fantastical Fashion Ensembles: What the Hosts Are “Wearing”

April Callahan’s Look

Theme: Drawing inspiration from her upcoming Schiaparelli class, April curates an ensemble echoing “hard chic” and classical Greek luxury.
Dress: Deep chocolate brown Schiaparelli evening dress (wool crepe, Winter 1935–36, V&A Museum)
- “An evening dress of brown woolen crepe, floor length, high necked, with a gathered bodice and circular trapunto quilting over each breast. Six rows of gold braid encircle the slim columnar full skirt at regular intervals from the waist down.” (April, 03:26)
Jewelry:
- Gold Grecian earrings (c. 200 BCE, Hellenic period — 3-inch gold dangles with garnet insets)
- Matching gold serpentine armbands (c. 200 BCE, V&A): “These imposing serpentine armbands represent two tritons, male and female, each holding a small winged Eros.” (April, 06:03)
Shoes: Gold leather André Perugia wedges (1940, FIT collection) — “Some of his signature shoes which do not have a last…a beautiful voided shape.” (April, 07:34; Cassidy, 07:34)

Cassidy Zachary’s Look

Era: Circa 1830, themed around her upcoming class “What Women Wore to the Revolution.”
Dress: Circa 1830 gigot (leg-of-mutton) sleeve evening gown, LACMA collection
- Pale pink silk organza/satin with imitation pearls, glass beads, and a pink sash, noted for huge sleeves and wheat embroidery.
- “Bulbous gigot sleeves...have this beautiful detailing. It's pleated at the shoulder seam...and it's also embroidered with the most beautiful, I guess, is that an ear of wheat?” (Cassidy, 09:36)
Shoes: Contemporary artisan brand Pavilion Parade (made from antique textiles and trims, rose and gold slippers)
- “Rose bouquet Versailles...created from a circa 1850 quote French silk jacquard narrow border panel with pink roses and dull gold garlands...” (Cassidy, 11:08)
Jewelry:
- Huge diamond bow brooch and pearl diadem once owned by Empress Eugénie (borrowed from the Louvre) — “The brooch contains 4,000 diamonds…The diadem was made in 1853...212 pearls and almost 2,000 diamonds.” (Cassidy, 13:00)

Notable Style Moment

April: “I have been skulking around the recessed corners of every museum in the world pulling Schiaparelli images in preparation for you all.” (05:00)
Cassidy on sleeves: “This decade…with the gigot sleeve is just such an absolutely wild silhouette, I think, especially to our contemporary eyes. Right.” (10:06)

[16:44] The Gift Exchange: Fashion History’s (Hits & Misses)

April's Gifts to Cassidy

1. The Marie Antoinette Switch (19th Century Hairpiece) [17:15]

Inspired by popular Gilded Age hair trends, this “switch” (hairpiece) from an 1877 Harper’s Bazaar ad promised to form “any kind of [style], front or back within a few minutes.”
“Ladies buying one will be taught free of charge how to arrange the same from $6 upward…about $180 today and up.” (April, 17:44)
Not a literal connection to Marie Antoinette, but used her name for 19th-century cachet. Cassidy guesses the function: “So it's some sort of hairpiece.” (Cassidy, 18:42)

2. Fabergé Pickle Scent Bottle (1890) [23:08]

An opulent, whimsical perfume bottle shaped like a pickle, crafted from nephrite jade/gold/diamonds by Fabergé.
“It is the most adorable thing that I've ever seen...sold in 2007 for £66,000…today about a quarter of a million dollars.” (April, 24:30)
Mini history lesson: Fabergé founded 1842, nationalized 1917, revived as luxury brand in 2007.

3. Animal Bath & Curious 18th-Century Health Book [27:48]

From a 1910 Ladies Home Journal column, April gifts Cassidy a fictional “animal bath” (milk/fats/oil/blood—no water).
She supplements with a rare beauty manual: “Curiosities of Common Water” (1723), which advocates drinking water as a health cure and contains… peculiar recommendations.
- “This entire book is basically trying to convince people to drink water...He also recommends eat no suppers. None who have refrained from suppers have ever been found to die in their sleep.” (April, 31:30)

4. Audrey Hepburn’s ‘Sabrina’ Earrings (1954) [37:45]

Costume jewelry, worn in one of film’s most iconic eveningwear scenes, by renowned Hollywood designer Joseph of Hollywood.
“Gold plate earrings composed of clear gemstones clustered in the shape of flowers with dangling teardropped faux pearls…” (April, 37:52)
The story behind the Sabrina costume-design Oscar rivalry between Edith Head and Hubert de Givenchy.

5. Bonus: Striped Wool Nose Warmer (1965) [25:16]

A “kooky but practical” striped wool nose cozy (from Hanover House Mail Order), once a college student fad.
“It even has a tassel on the nose and it's for your nose to be worn over it and then it is tied around the back of the head.” (Cassidy as April describes, 25:30)
“It was also known as a snoot boot...fits any size nose.” (Cassidy, 27:22)

Cassidy's Gifts to April

1. Schiaparelli Smoking Gloves (1939) [21:21]

Rust suede gloves designed by Elsa Schiaparelli, with slots for individual matches and a striker board on the cuff.
“There is a column around the wrist...you can put your individual matches. And then there is a striking board on the wrist.” (Cassidy, 21:21)
“Obviously I'm stealing this for my Schiaparelli class!” (April, 22:20)
Quirky, historic multi-functionality; inspired by a tip from @visualsustenance on Instagram.

2. Medicinal/Beauty Gift Basket (19th/Early 20th Century) [32:09]

In tongue-in-cheek fashion, Cassidy assembles a package of historical “beauty aids”:
- Joy’s Cigarettes (asthma/cough remedy): “They may be safely smoked by ladies and children.” (Cassidy, 33:01)
- Radior “Toilette Requisites” (c. 1919, beauty products with radioactive radium): “...first toilette preparations to embody actual radium, an astonishing new force for betterment.” (Cassidy, 34:37)
- Dr. Campbell’s Arsenic Complexion Wafers (1890): “To maintain your clear, fresh complexion...I am gifting you Dr. Campbell's entirely safe arsenic complexion wafers.” (Cassidy, 37:07)
Historic references to dubious/quack beauty cures and dangers of pre-regulation cosmetics.
- “I think wearing radioactive cosmetics products would make you vanish.” (April, 35:30)

3. Ring Commemorating Clementine, April’s French Bulldog [43:32]

Custom-commissioned 19th-century style reverse painted dog ring by artist William Essex.
- “The reverse of a cabochon rock crystal is carefully hand carved...then it's painted, forming a fine three-dimensional image…Clem's image is backed with mother of pearl...in all her glory in a 15 carat yellow gold mount.” (Cassidy, 43:38)
April links this to items often found at iconic Parisian auction house Drouot.

Notable Quotes & Moments

On playful historical dressing:
“I have been skulking around the recessed corners of every museum in the world pulling Schiaparelli images in preparation for you all.” —April (05:00)
On the extravagance of the fantasy:
“No holds barred, no expense spared...dress listeners, this is the final episode of season eight!” —April (01:49)
On historical oddities:
“So if you have any of the above [diseases], drink some water. According to John Smith.” —April (32:01)
On beauty standards and danger:
“I am gifting you Dr. Campbell's entirely safe arsenic complexion wafers.” —Cassidy (37:07)
On Hollywood jewelry:
“So your earrings, Cass. Originally the auction estimate on these was 2 to $3,000. Do you want to venture a guess as to the actual hammer price?...$19,000.” —April (42:45)
On enduring podcast friendship:
“It is always such a gift for us, and the real gift is you.” —Cassidy (47:05)

Timestamps for Key Segments

[01:15] Episode Introduction & Purpose
[03:05] Imaginary Holiday Ensembles Described
[16:44] Opening the Fantasy Gift Exchange
[21:21] Notable Gift: Schiaparelli Smoking Gloves
[23:08] Notable Gift: Fabergé Pickle Scent Bottle
[25:16] Notable Gift: 1960s Wool Nose Warmer
[27:48] Notable Gift: Animal Bath & Curious Beauty Book
[32:09] Cassidy’s Medicinal/Beauty Gift Basket
[37:45] Notable Gift: Audrey Hepburn’s ‘Sabrina’ Earrings
[43:32] Notable Gift: Clementine’s Portrait Ring
[47:05] Season Wrap-Up & Heartfelt Thanks

Tone & Style Highlights

Warm, witty, and deeply knowledgeable: April and Cassidy are candid about fashion history’s triumphs and foibles, mixing scholarship with good-natured teasing.
Deep Playfulness: The gift exchange is both an imaginative exercise and an excuse for obscure history dives (“I am gifting you a pickle. Not any pickle. A Fabergé pickle.” —April, 23:08).
Affectionate Friendship: Their banter reflects true camaraderie—“It was not expected in the 1830s from you today. But maybe that’s better for the context of our party…” (April, 13:34).
Sly, critical humor: Especially when discussing questionable historical beauty practices: “I think wearing radioactive cosmetics products would make you vanish.” (April, 35:30)

For the Listener Who Missed the Episode

Further Exploration

For images of gifts/ensembles: Instagram @dressed_podcast | Facebook @dressedpodcast | #dressed575
Book recommendations: bookshop.org/shop/dressed
Courses, tours, newsletter: dressedhistory.com

End of Episode Summary

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'Tis the Season V: Fashion History Gift Hits (and Misses)

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Summary

Dressed: The History of Fashion

Episode: 'Tis the Season V: Fashion History Gift Hits (and Misses)

Episode Overview

Key Discussion Points & Insights

[03:05] Fantastical Fashion Ensembles: What the Hosts Are “Wearing”

April Callahan’s Look

Cassidy Zachary’s Look

Notable Style Moment

[16:44] The Gift Exchange: Fashion History’s (Hits & Misses)

April's Gifts to Cassidy

Cassidy's Gifts to April

Notable Quotes & Moments

Timestamps for Key Segments

Tone & Style Highlights

For the Listener Who Missed the Episode

Summary

Dressed: The History of Fashion

Episode: 'Tis the Season V: Fashion History Gift Hits (and Misses)

Episode Overview

Key Discussion Points & Insights

[03:05] Fantastical Fashion Ensembles: What the Hosts Are “Wearing”

April Callahan’s Look

Cassidy Zachary’s Look

Notable Style Moment

[16:44] The Gift Exchange: Fashion History’s (Hits & Misses)

April's Gifts to Cassidy

Cassidy's Gifts to April

Notable Quotes & Moments

Timestamps for Key Segments

Tone & Style Highlights

For the Listener Who Missed the Episode