Empire: Heist of St Nicholas – Tomb Raiding In Ancient Turkey (Part 1)
Podcast: Empire
Hosts: William Dalrymple, Anita Anand
Guest: Sam Dalrymple
Episode: 318
Release Date: December 23, 2025
Episode Overview
This festive episode launches a two-part series delving into the wild, winding history of Saint Nicholas: from his origins as a Greek bishop in southern Turkey to the many myths and relic heists that have shaped the legend of Santa Claus. With author and historian Sam Dalrymple joining the hosts, the trio takes listeners on a journey through ancient Lycia, exploring how geography, empire, myth, and syncretism transformed a humble bishop into an icon of both gift-giving and seafaring protection.
Key Discussion Points & Insights
1. Setting the Scene: Santa’s Forgotten Tomb in Turkey
[03:15–05:18]
- Sam describes a pilgrimage to Lycia in southern Turkey, the birthplace of St Nicholas (Santa Claus).
- The landscape is dotted with marvels: ancient Byzantine basilicas and a marble Roman sarcophagus, lavishly adorned and unmistakably imperial.
Quote:
"It's this rather incredible Roman sarcophagus made of marble with these kind of acanthus leaves everywhere...built for St Nicholas, who is a Roman saint, essentially."
— Sam Dalrymple [04:39]
2. Lycia: Crossroads of Civilizations
[05:23–08:13]
- Lycia sits at intersections of Greek, Persian, Roman, and Zoroastrian cultures.
- Persian (Achaemenid) conquest in 550 BC integrates Lycian culture into their empire; Lycian architecture influences early Indian monumental sites.
- The Persian Empire’s vastness underlined, stretching to Afghanistan and the fringes of India.
Quote:
"It's the kind of alternate reality...what would have happened had Greece been conquered by Persia."
— Sam Dalrymple [06:33]
3. Fusion of Funerary Traditions & Myth
[09:05–11:35]
- The region boasts a wild array of tombs with Greek, Persian, and local influences: from rock-cut mausoleums to tall burial towers.
- Siren iconography merges Greek and local funerary tradition—Sirens as soul-bearers, not just sailor-killers.
4. History’s March: Greeks, Romans, Byzantines
[11:35–13:27]
- Alexander the Great’s conquest brings Greek autonomy and innovation; Lycia becomes a democratic federation.
- Under Rome, the city hosts grand amphitheaters and new temples; mythologies blend with Christianity.
5. Enter St Nicholas: History, Legend, and Miracle
[14:49–17:08]
- The life of Nicholas (ca. 280–343 AD): Born in Patara, later bishop of Myra.
- The foundational dowry legend: Nicholas saves three impoverished girls from prostitution by dropping gold bags (not through a chimney, but a window).
Quote:
"The night before he sells the first one into prostitution, St Nick creeps up to the house and drops a bag of gold into the house at midnight."
— Sam Dalrymple [15:39]
- Other early miracles: Nicholas felling a demon-possessed tree—possibly linking to the Christmas tree tradition.
6. Sacred Sites: Churches, Icons, and Modern Commercialism
[17:08–18:56]
- Sam visits the modern site: Demre (ancient Myra), a blend of kebab shops, malls, and statues of St Nicholas in Coca-Cola red.
- Inside the basilica: oldest known icons depict Nicholas as a bald, bearded bishop, bearing a jewel-encrusted gospel.
Quote:
"You go into the actual church and there are these very, very early images of him...an elderly man, bald, dome headed, no hat of any description...carrying a book in his hands."
— William Dalrymple [18:33]
7. The Rise of the Saint’s Cult: Pilgrimage and Syncretism
[21:49–24:41]
- By the 5th–6th century, Nicholas’ cult spreads across the region.
- Early popes pursued a conscious strategy: replace pagan temples and festivals with Christian saints and feasts (e.g., St Nicholas and Poseidon both honored in December).
Quote:
"The early popes specifically write letters...that when you're trying to convert people, you should build Christian churches on the sites of previous temples..."
— Anita Anand [23:56]
- Nicholas’ association with sailors likely derives from pre-Christian Poseidon worship, not his actual biography.
8. The Gift-Giver Goes Global
[26:34–29:08]
- Nicholas’s reputation spreads by sea to Rome (8th c.), then Kiev and Russia (9th c.), becoming patron of travelers—St Christopher’s Eastern equivalent.
- His veneration is immense in Orthodox Christianity (weekly dedicated prayers in Russia and Greece).
Quote:
"In Greek and Russian liturgy, St. Nicholas remains one of the most famous saints in the entire canon."
— Sam Dalrymple [28:01]
9. Chimneys and Christmas Iconography
[30:21–31:38]
- The earliest image of present-giving down a chimney is a 1392 fresco in Romacca, Serbia; Nicholas appears on a rooftop, bag in hand, dropping gifts through the chimney—marking the origin of this enduring tradition.
Quote:
"On top of the house, you can see St. Nicholas with his halo in...his ecclesiastical outfit...dropping a bag of coins...through a chimney."
— Sam Dalrymple [31:27]
Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments
- "Alternate reality...what would have happened had Greece been conquered by Persia."
— Sam Dalrymple [06:33] - "A Dowry story with a dark twist" – Nicholas saves destitute daughters from prostitution by midnight gifts.
[15:39] - "He's dropping a bag of coins...through a chimney"—the direct art-historical link to Santa’s modern myth.
[31:27] - "In Greek and Russian liturgy, St. Nicholas remains one of the most famous saints in the entire canon."
— Sam Dalrymple [28:01] - Sam’s fascination with "Santa's hometown" influencing Indian cave architecture—global ripples of empire.
[07:33]
Time-stamped Guide to Major Segments
| Timestamp | Segment | Highlights | |:----------:|:----------------------------------------|:-------------------------------------------------------------------------------| | 03:15–05:18| Sam visits the tomb of St Nicholas | Marble sarcophagus, Byzantine basilica, impressive ancient art | | 05:23–08:13| Lycia as a crossroads | Persian conquest, Greek and Zoroastrian overlays, influences on Indian architecture | | 09:05–11:35| Ancient funerary traditions | Rock-cut tombs, siren iconography, cultural fusion in mortuary art | | 13:27–14:49| Early Christian and Roman periods | St Paul’s journey, Christianization of Lycia | | 14:49–17:08| St Nicholas’ biography, dowry legend | Gift-giving, origins of the Santa myth, dark roots of the legend | | 17:08–18:56| Pilgrimage and commercialization today | Modern Demre, Coca-Cola Santa statues, ancient icons in situ | | 21:49–24:41| Cult syncretism: appropriation of pagan traditions | Churches built on temple sites, move from Poseidon to Nicholas | | 26:34–29:08| Spread of Nicholas’ cult through Europe and Russia | From sailor-patron to Orthodox super-saint | | 30:21–31:38| The earliest chimney iconography | Serbian fresco, the first illustrated Santa/chimney link |
Tone & Style
Engaging, energetic, and full of playful banter—typical of Empire’s blend of lively storytelling, scholarly insight, and cheeky asides ("Dalyrymple down a rabbit hole", "Anita quality pun", and William Dalrymple’s "Paul the Apostle, he had an epistle..." [14:21]).
What's Next?
The episode ends on a cliffhanger: the legendary theft of St Nicholas’s relics by Italian sailors. Part 2 promises a thrilling heist and the continuation of Santa’s journey through myth and history.
Quote:
"...the real body of Saint Nicholas, Santa himself, was stolen by Italian sailors. So do join us for that."
— William Dalrymple [31:38]
For a deep dive into the fascinating fusion of cultures, myths, and architectural lineages—and for the roots of the Christmas traditions we know today—this episode is a must-listen.