Everything Everywhere Daily: "A Brief History of Neckties"
Host: Gary Arndt
Date: December 5, 2025
Overview
In this episode, Gary Arndt explores the surprising and storied history of neckties—a seemingly simple accessory that has become a symbol of professionalism and formality in Western dress. Delving into the origins, cultural shifts, and quirky developments of neckwear, Arndt traces the necktie’s evolution from ancient protective garb to the essential adornment of the modern business suit. Along the way, he examines how neckties reflect and shape style, politics, and identity.
Key Discussion Points & Insights
1. The Paradox of the Necktie
- Starts at 02:59
- Neckties are ubiquitous in formal and professional attire, yet as Arndt points out, “they serve no functional purpose. They don’t hold anything up, and they don’t close anything off.”
- Unlike jewelry, ties are not clear displays of wealth, yet their use is socially mandatory in many settings.
“A tie, however, is just a piece of cloth. Even if it's a nice piece of cloth, say silk, it’s still just a piece of cloth.” — Gary Arndt [03:15]
2. Ancient Origins
- Starts at 03:30
- The custom of neckwear is older than most realize, dating back to the terracotta soldiers of China (c. 210 BC), who wore strips of cloth around the neck.
- Arndt highlights the Roman focale (or phokala), a scarf used by legionnaires for “protection from chafing caused by armor” and also “adding a layer of insulation” [04:10].
- Even in antiquity, neckwear could be symbolic as well as functional, with artistic depictions and mentions in Roman literature.
“Evidence from Roman art and literature indicates that it also held a modest symbolic or decorative function.” — [05:00]
3. The Cravat and the 17th Century
- Starts at 05:30
- In the 1600s, during the Thirty Years’ War, Croatian mercenaries in French service wore knotted scarves called cravats, a term derived from "Croat" in French.
- King Louis XIV’s fascination with cravats sparked a European fashion revolution.
- “Wearing a cravat became an art form among European nobility... with different styles signifying rank, regiment, or simply personal taste.” — [06:30]
4. 18th–19th Centuries: Innovation and Formality
- Starts at 07:15
- The cravat’s elaborate knots led to the “stock” — a stiffer, buckled neckband, especially in military and equestrian circles.
- The Four-in-Hand tie emerged in the 1850s, simplifying neckwear and paving the way for the modern tie.
- Bow ties and ascots found niche popularity, each connected to distinct cultural and professional spheres.
- Notably, “every official presidential portrait, starting with George Washington, has some sort of neckwear, except Andrew Jackson, who was just wearing a very high collar” [08:40].
5. 20th Century Innovations
- Starts at 09:00
- 1924: Jesse Langsdorff patents the 45-degree bias-cut tie, which “allowed ties to hang properly without twisting” [09:40].
- Ties in the ’20s and ’30s become “shorter and wider,” with Art Deco designs.
- WWII: Fabric rationing leads to narrower ties, often using unconventional materials.
- Postwar periods bring explosive creativity—bold patterns and expressive designs flourish.
- Bolo ties gain status in the American Southwest, ultimately declared the official neckwear of Arizona (1971), New Mexico (1987), and Texas (2007).
“The bold look promoted by the likes of Esquire magazine encouraged men to express themselves through colorful, eye-catching ties.” — [11:10]
6. Changing Silhouettes and Social Meanings
- Starts at 11:30
- 1960s: The “skinny tie” aligns with youthful, mod aesthetics.
- 1970s: “Kipper ties,” extremely wide and flamboyant, reflect a break from convention and embrace of expressive style.
- 1980s: Ties become power symbols, associated with status and success—bolder, wider, and dominated by designer logos.
“This was the era when the tie truly became associated with the power suit and corporate culture. Just think of the fashion from the movie American Psycho.” — [12:30]
7. The Craft of Knotting
- Starts at 13:10
- Learning to tie a necktie is “a rite of passage.”
- There are many knots, each with its own style and context:
- Four-in-Hand: Simple, compact, slightly asymmetrical
- Half Windsor: Medium, symmetrical, balanced
- Full Windsor: Large, highly symmetrical, for formality
- Prince Albert: Long, layered, slightly cylindrical
- Pratt (Shelby) Knot: Medium-sized, balanced
- Kelvin Knot and the (standard) Bow Tie Knot
- “Surprisingly, there's really only one standard bow tie knot, often simply called the bow knot or shoelace knot." [14:00]
8. The Oddity and Legacy of the Necktie
- Starts at 14:20
- The central irony: the necktie, now a symbol of professionalism and formality, exists because “a bunch of 17th century French aristocrats were trying to copy the style of Croatian mercenaries.”
Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments
- “Neckties are very odd if you think about it. They serve no functional purpose.” — Gary Arndt [03:05]
- “Some men employed servants specifically trained in the complex task of tying these neckpieces.” [06:50]
- “In 1971, Arizona declared the bolo tie the state's official neckwear, followed by New Mexico in 1987 and Texas in 2007, giving the bolo tie a formal status that no other region had ever granted to a neck accessory.” [10:50]
- “Learning how to tie a tie is a rite of passage.” [13:10]
- “Yet the reason that they're even a thing today is because a bunch of 17th century French aristocrats were trying to copy the style of Croatian mercenaries.” [14:25]
Timestamps for Important Segments
- 02:59 — The Paradox and Purpose of Neckties
- 03:30 — Ancient Origins: Terracotta Soldiers & Roman Focale
- 05:30 — The Cravat and 17th Century France
- 07:15 — The Evolution: Stocks, Four-in-Hands, Bow Ties
- 09:00 — 20th Century Innovations: Bias-Cut, Art Deco, WWII
- 10:45 — The Bolo Tie: American Southwest
- 11:30 — Style Shifts: Skinny to Kipper Ties
- 12:30 — Power Dressing and 1980s Corporate Culture
- 13:10 — Knotting Methods & Symbolism
- 14:20 — The Lasting Oddity and Social Meaning
Final Summary
Gary Arndt’s brisk yet thorough journey through the history of neckties reveals their evolution from ancient functionality to modern symbolism. From Roman focale to the power tie of Wall Street, neckwear has shifted with culture, politics, and fashion, becoming a canvas for both conformity and expressive individuality. Ultimately, as Arndt wittily concludes, neckties have always functioned as much as social statements as sartorial accessories—an “odd piece of cloth” with a remarkable story running through history.