Everything Everywhere Daily – “Borobudur”

Host: Gary Arndt
Date: November 14, 2025

Episode Overview

In this episode, Gary Arndt delves into the story of Borobudur—the world’s largest Buddhist temple, located in central Java, Indonesia. The episode covers Borobudur’s construction, unique architectural features, centuries-long disappearance, rediscovery, restoration, and its present-day significance for Indonesia and the global Buddhist community. Arndt brings a traveler’s enthusiasm, framing Borobudur as one of the greatest but often overlooked monuments in world history.

Key Discussion Points and Insights

1. Location and Construction

• Geography: Situated near Yogyakarta, Borobudur is the world’s largest Buddhist temple yet remains less recognized than other global monuments.
• Construction Era: Built during the Shailendra dynasty’s peak between 780–840 CE (possibly starting as early as 750 CE) [04:30].
• Cultural Context:
  • Shailendras were devoted Mahayana Buddhists.
  • Java at the time was a blend of Hindu and Buddhist influences.
• Engineering Feat:
  • Constructed without mortar using an interlocking system—about 2 million cubic feet of stone from nearby rivers [06:40].
  • Included an elaborate drainage system with 100 spouts to combat heavy monsoon rains.
  • Estimated 75-year construction involving thousands—stone carvers, laborers, artisans.

2. Design and Cosmology

• Mandala Layout:
  • Nine stacked platforms (six square, three circular) and a central stupa [08:05].
  • Measures 123m (403ft) per side and originally ~35m (115ft) tall.
  • Walking all levels’ circuits covers nearly 5km [08:55].
• Pilgrimage & Symbolism:
  • Pilgrims walk clockwise through levels—symbolic journey: “from the realm of desire, through the realm of forms, to the realm of formlessness at the top.” [09:45]
• Art & Iconography:
  • 2,672 relief panels, with 1,460 narrative panels: stories from Buddhist texts, Buddha’s life, prior incarnations, Sudhana’s pilgrimage [10:10].
  • Originally hosted 504 Buddha statues with specific mudras (hand gestures) tied to level and direction.

3. Abandonment and Disappearance

• Timeline:
  • Mysteriously abandoned around the 10th century [11:52].
• Theories Explained:
  • Political/religious power shifts: Center of Javanese civilization moved eastward; Hinduism gained prominence.
  • Natural disaster: Mount Merapi erupted c. 1006, covering Borobudur in ash, population displacement.
  • Later Islamic conversion led to ongoing neglect.
• Cultural Memory:
  • Locals avoided Borobudur, associating it with superstition—rumored hauntings, considered unlucky [13:50].
• Complete “Disappearance”:
  • Though known in folklore, Borobudur was lost to broader awareness and covered by jungle/ash for centuries.

4. Rediscovery and Early Restoration

• Stamford Raffles:
  • In 1814, British Lt. Governor Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles heard of “a mountain of Buddhist sculptures.” He sent Dutch engineer H.C. Cornelius to clear the site [15:30].
  • 200 men spent two months documenting, but the site stayed partially buried.
• Full Uncovering:
  • 1835: Site cleared, its vast scale revealed.
• Plundering:
  • Significant loss of statues/artifacts (museums abroad, souvenir hunters).
• Photographic Documentation:
  • 1870s: Isidore van Kinsbergen photographed Borobudur, sparking international awareness [17:20].

5. Major Restorations

• Dutch Colonial Restoration:
  • 1885: Dutch government recognizes need for conservation.
  • 1907–1911: Led by Theodor van Erp, the first scientific restoration—rebuilt upper terraces and improved drainage [18:30].
  • “Restored over 300,000 stones, cleaned the reliefs, and documented the entire process photographically.” [18:55]
  • Work focused on higher levels; underlying foundation issues remained.
• Indonesian & UNESCO Collaboration:
  • Post-independence, Borobudur seen as a symbol of national identity [21:10].
  • 1973–1983: Eight-year UNESCO-led restoration; $25 million, over a million stones dismantled, cataloged, and reconstructed [22:00].
  • Modern drainage, treated stones for biological protection.
  • Anastylosis: “Using only original materials and methods wherever possible.” [22:45]
  • 1983: Restoration completed.
  • 1991: UNESCO World Heritage Site designation.

6. Modern Era & Challenges

• Tourism and Wear:
  • Over 3 million annual visitors [24:05].
  • Foot traffic and handling of reliefs require ongoing preservation.
• Threats:
  • 1985: Bombing by extremists—damaged 9 stupas, subsequently restored.
  • Volcanic eruptions (notably Mount Merapi in 2010) cover monument with ash; require cleaning [25:10].
• Religious Role:
  • Indonesia: Buddhists ~1%.
  • Since 1980s, major Buddhist ceremonies (especially Vesak) allowed again—thousands attend annually [26:20].
  • “The Indonesian government works to balance Borobudur’s identity as both a religious site and a secular cultural monument.” [26:50]

7. Archaeological Context

• Recent surveys show Borobudur was part of a larger complex—linked with the Pawan and Mendut temples.
• Excavations revealed workshops, settlements, and infrastructure from the original construction.

8. Gary Arndt’s Personal Reflections

• “I had the pleasure of visiting Borobudur in 2008, and it was most certainly one of the highlights of my trip to Indonesia.” [28:05]
• Recommends visiting at sunrise for “great photography” and to experience the mist.
• Suggests nearby Prambanan temple as another must-see UNESCO site.

9. Legacy & Broader Impact

• Borobudur’s architectural style influenced Buddhist structures across Southeast Asia.
• Symbolizes Indonesia’s rich historical past—serves as both a secular national monument and a continuing site of Buddhist pilgrimage.

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• On the journey through Borobudur:

  “Pilgrims would begin at the base and walk clockwise through each level, a process called pradakshina, experiencing a symbolic journey from the realm of desire at the base, through the realm of forms on the middle terraces, to the realm of formlessness at the top.”
  – Gary Arndt [09:45]

• Describing its ‘disappearance’:

  “Borobudur became gradually covered by volcanic ash and jungle vegetation, eventually disappearing from collective memory.”
  – Gary Arndt [13:21]

• Restoration Project:

  “The restoration involved completely dismantling and cataloging over one million stones from the monument's base and lower levels, addressing the fundamental drainage and structural problems.”
  – Gary Arndt [22:30]

• Personal Reflection:

  “I had the pleasure of visiting Borobudur in 2008, and it was most certainly one of the highlights of my trip to Indonesia.”
  – Gary Arndt [28:05]

• On Borobudur’s status:

  “Although Borobudur isn’t as well known as other iconic landmarks such as the Taj Mahal or the Colosseum, perhaps it should be—as it’s one of the greatest and most important historical sites on earth.”
  – Gary Arndt [29:20]

Timestamps for Key Segments

• 4:30 – Origins and construction under the Shailendra dynasty
• 8:05 – Architectural design and cosmological symbolism
• 11:52 – Theories behind Borobudur’s abandonment
• 15:30 – Stamford Raffles and the rediscovery
• 18:30 – First major restoration by Theodor van Erp
• 22:00 – UNESCO-sponsored restoration and global recognition
• 24:05 – Modern tourism and conservation challenges
• 26:20 – Buddhist ceremonies and religious significance today
• 28:05 – Host’s travel advice and reflections
• 29:20 – Closing thoughts on global significance

Conclusion

Gary Arndt’s episode provides a vivid, accessible overview of Borobudur: its extraordinary construction, spiritual meaning, long vanishing, dramatic rediscovery, and ongoing preservation. He balances history, architecture, travel insights, and personal anecdotes, ultimately making the case for Borobudur’s status as a world monument equal to better-known landmarks—a site that both secular and religious visitors can appreciate.