Extreme: Peak Danger Episode 2: Plan of Attack Release Date: January 27, 2025

Hosted by Natalia Melman Petruzella

Introduction: The Perilous Ascent of K2

In the summer of 2008, approximately 30 climbers embarked on a treacherous journey to conquer K2, a formidable mountain straddling the border between China and Pakistan. Over the span of two disastrous days, 11 climbers tragically lost their lives, marking one of the most harrowing episodes in high-altitude mountaineering history. In this episode of Extreme: Peak Danger, historian and podcaster Natalia Melman Petruzella delves deep into the events, decisions, and human dramas that unfolded on K2’s unforgiving slopes.

K2: Beauty and Brutality

K2, standing at 28,251 feet, is not merely a visually stunning pyramid that pierces the clouds; it is a mountain that relentlessly tests the limits of human endurance and resilience.

Dr. Eric Meyer provides a vivid description of K2’s dual nature:

"It's just an incredibly remote, austere environment. Rock, snow, and ice. It's beautiful in that respect." (00:48)

However, the mountain's beauty is deceptive. The climbers soon face K2's lethal unpredictability:

"We had an avalanche that ran down to within a few hundred yards of our camp." (01:04)

The threat of avalanches and rockfalls is ever-present, underscoring the mountain’s perilous reputation.

The Climbers: Diverse Motivations and Backgrounds

Among the climbers are Cecilie Skog and her husband Rolf Bae, newlyweds whose love for each other is matched by their passion for mountaineering. Their decision to climb K2 during their honeymoon sets the stage for the intense personal and collective struggles to come.

The expedition comprises a mix of seasoned climbers and those newer to high-altitude ventures, each driven by different motivations:

• Some seek to push their physical and mental boundaries.
• Others are hired for specific roles.
• A few climb for the sheer exhilaration of being amidst the majestic peaks.

As commercial mountaineering becomes more prevalent, K2 attracts a confluence of ambitious climbers striving for the summit, despite the associated risks.

Planning the Ascent: Collaboration and Challenges

With a looming two-day good weather window, the climbers understand the necessity of a meticulously crafted plan to avoid chaos on the mountain. Given K2's narrow and treacherous paths, coordination is paramount to prevent traffic jams that could spell disaster.

A crucial planning meeting takes place in a Serbian team's tent, where climbers from various expeditions discuss strategies:

Dr. Eric Meyer: "We knew we would all be in the same space at the same time, so we thought, let's work together." (07:09)

Wilko Van Rooyen, a professional adventurer, plays a significant role in shaping the plan:

"We got 400 meters, lightweight and very strong. So when Italians take 200 meters, you don't have to bring anything." (09:09)

The meeting emphasizes the importance of fixed ropes and synchronized efforts to ensure a safe and efficient ascent. However, communication barriers emerge as the team comprises 12 different nationalities, each with its own language and dialect, as highlighted by Rolf:

"They were not the strongest when it came to language and communication." (12:19)

This multilingual dynamic poses a significant challenge to the unity and effectiveness of the planned strategy.

Choosing the Route: Abruzzi Spur vs. Sessen Route

The climbers face a pivotal decision regarding which path to take up K2:

• Abruzzi Spur: The traditional and more popular route, favored by Cecilia and Rolf for its relative ease in terms of steepness and the reduced load. However, it remains highly susceptible to rockfalls and avalanches.

  "It's exposed to rock falls and also avalanches." – Cecilia (15:02)

• Sessen Route: Preferred by Wilko Van Rooyen for its thicker snow coverage on ice, which he believes offers better protection against avalanches, despite its inherent dangers.

  "Predicting rockfall is even harder than predicting avalanches. For me, it was logical to take the Sessen route." – Wilko Van Rooyen (15:27)

The choice of route reflects each climber's assessment of risks versus advantages, highlighting the strategic complexities involved in high-altitude mountaineering.

The Ascent: Stages and Struggles

The climbers proceed in stages to mitigate the effects of high altitude:

1. Climbing to Camp 2 (22,000 feet): The initial push, where exhaustion and physiological strains become palpable.

   Dr. Eric Meyer describes the physical toll: "It feels like it's a big struggle. It's very common to feel very physiologically under gunned, like I just can't get enough air." (16:07)

2. Reaching Camp 3 (7,040 meters): A moment of brief respite and camaraderie.

   Cecilia reflects: "When you reach a new camp... you realize why you're there. It's the view, the atmosphere, the people around you." (17:41)

3. Establishing Camp 4 (25,000 feet): The final base before the summit, offering breathtaking yet daunting views.

   Cecilia shares her awe: "You can see everything, everything you've only seen on pictures." (18:58)

At each stage, the climbers grapple with the exhausting demands of high-altitude climbing, the bitter cold, and the constant battle against nature’s unpredictability.

A Heroic Rescue: Shaheen Beg’s Plight

Tragedy strikes when Shaheen Beg, the experienced Pakistani lead guide, falls critically ill at Camp 2 due to a gastrointestinal issue likely caused by contaminated snow:

Dr. Eric Meyer explains: "He had a gastrointestinal issue, probably from scooping bad snow." (22:17)

Shaheen's deteriorating condition poses a dire threat, necessitating an urgent rescue. With no other climbers nearby to assist, Nadir Khan, a young Pakistani cook with no mountaineering experience, steps forward to save his friend.

Despite the immense danger, Nadir mobilizes with the help of a military officer to perform the rescue:

Shaheen Beg: "He's a very sick man alone. He was just expecting to die in Camp 2." (23:27)

Nadir's bravery is highlighted as he administers medication and physically supports Shaheen during the perilous descent:

"He was going to learn on the spot." – Narration (24:07)

After a grueling 30-hour round trip, Nadir successfully brings Shaheen back to lower ground, embodying the profound human spirit of sacrifice and friendship amidst the harshest conditions.

Aftermath: The Expedition’s Unraveling

The successful rescue of Shaheen, while heroic, leaves the expedition without one of its most experienced guides. This loss forces Predrag and his Serbian team to reconsider their ascent strategy:

Frederick Strang: "We start to see that it might not be as but they're just a..." (27:40) (Incomplete quote indicating uncertainty)

Meanwhile, up at Camp 4, Rolf and Cecilia grapple with the physical and emotional toll of their climb:

Cecilia: "I have this gut feeling that I'm not in control of this climb." (28:07)

The expedition, which began with a spirit of collaboration and meticulous planning, now faces fragmentation and escalating tension as the climbers confront dwindling support and mounting uncertainties.

Cliffhanger: The Mountaintop Beckons Amidst Turmoil

As the climbers prepare for the final push to the summit, internal conflicts and unaddressed communication issues threaten to derail their mission. Cecilia's growing unease signals impending challenges that could have devastating consequences for the entire group.

Natalia Melman Petruzella concludes: "That climb is no longer just about reaching the top; it's about survival and the fragile trust that holds the team together." (28:13)

Stay tuned for the next episode as the climbers navigate these perils, testing the limits of their endurance and the strength of their alliances.

Conclusion

Episode 2, "Plan of Attack," masterfully captures the intricate dynamics of a high-stakes mountaineering expedition. Through personal narratives, expert insights, and gripping real-time events, Natalia Melman Petruzella paints a vivid picture of the extreme challenges faced by those who dare to push the boundaries of human possibility. The episode not only highlights the physical dangers of K2 but also delves into the psychological and interpersonal struggles that can determine life or death in such inhospitable environments.

Notable Quotes:

• Dr. Eric Meyer:

  • "It's just an incredibly remote, austere environment. Rock, snow, and ice. It's beautiful in that respect." (00:48)
  • "We had an avalanche that ran down to within a few hundred yards of our camp." (01:04)
  • "It feels like it's a big struggle. It's very common to feel very physiologically under gunned, like I just can't get enough air." (16:07)

• Cecilia Skog:

  • "It's exposed to rock falls and also avalanches." (15:02)
  • "How do they solve this problem? Felt pretty fortunate to be there with my husband." (27:19)

• Wilko Van Rooyen:

  • "Predicting rockfall is even harder than predicting avalanches. For me, it was logical to take the Sessen route." (15:27)

• Nadir Khan:

  • "He's a very sick man alone. He was just expecting to die in Camp 2." (23:27)

Produced by Lee Meyer and Amalia Sortland for the BBC.