Extreme Podcast: Peak Danger Season 2, Episode 6 – "Descent into Madness"

Introduction

In the gripping sixth episode of Extreme Season 2, titled "Descent into Madness," BBC historian and podcaster Natalia Melman Petruzella delves deep into the harrowing events that unfolded on K2 in August 2008. This episode unravels the intense struggles of climbers pushed to their physical and mental limits, exploring themes of survival, trust, and the thin line between ambition and obsession.

The Summit and Separation

The episode opens with Dutch climber Wilko van Royen reaching the summit of K2 for the third time on August 1, 2008. Standing atop the formidable peak, Wilko reflects on the profound experience:

Wilko van Royen [00:21]: "Von de Katwe. Yeah, I am to feel that you're between heaven and earth. This is it, what we were fighting for and dreaming for. And now it's done."

Amidst the exhilaration, Wilko becomes separated from his team during the descent. Despite the looming darkness, his optimism remains intact:

Wilko van Royen [01:13]: "Everybody is going down at their own pace and I know from experience, you know, we will find Camp 4 and we will have a party in the base camp."

A Night in the Death Zone

As night falls around 8:30 PM, K2 transforms into a treacherous landscape of darkness and biting cold. Wilko navigates through vast snowfields, searching desperately for the fixed ropes crucial for descent. His search leads him to encounter two fellow climbers, Marco Confortola from Italy and Jerry McDonnell, an Irish climber referred to endearingly as "Jesus."

Wilko van Royen [01:53]: "Suddenly you know, there were no ropes. And then of course you think, hey listen, this is strange. What's going on? Am I on the wrong spot or whatever."

Without the necessary ropes, the trio faces the grim reality of spending the night in the Death Zone, where temperatures plunge to -40°C and the oxygen levels are perilously low. Exhausted, they decide to bivouac, huddling together for warmth and safety.

Wilko van Royen [03:03]: "I said to them, listen, we have to stop because we're taking too much risk. Tomorrow the sun will be rising."

Survival Amidst Desperation

Throughout the night, the climbers confront the harsh conditions and the psychological strain of potential survival. To maintain morale, Gerard, a musician among them, sings Gaelic songs, providing a semblance of normalcy and comfort.

Wilko van Royen [04:16]: "And then we made the best of it. Gerard, he was a musician, you know, he could sing Gaelic, you know, these Irish songs."

Meanwhile, back at Camp 4, other climbers like Frederick Strang and Dr. Eric Meyer grapple with the chaos, preparing for a rescue operation while dealing with the anxiety of missing teammates.

Eric Meyer [08:30]: "I can tell you as a climber, there's just nothing more unsettling than not knowing where the rest of your team is at."

Legends and Superstitions

Adding a mystical layer to the narrative, Petruzella recounts an ancient Buddhist legend involving the Goddess of Security, Takar Dolsangma, who is believed to inhabit K2. This legend underscores the climbers' reliance on faith and prayer for survival.

Shiring Dorje Sherpa [11:42]: "Pray every day. Every day. God, please, I want to go climbing this mountain. You pray and then you get the luck."

Descent and Heroic Acts

As dawn breaks on August 2nd, Wilko and his companions attempt to resume their descent but face additional challenges. Wilko begins experiencing snow blindness from prolonged exposure without protective goggles, complicating his efforts to lead.

Wilko van Royen [22:07]: "Painful like hell. And is getting worse and worse."

Meanwhile, Pasang Lama, a Sherpa guide for the Korean team, encounters Pemba Gol Jay Sherpa, a legendary climber, leading to a tense but heroic effort to navigate the perilous descent. Their struggle highlights the thin margin between life and death on K2.

Pasang Lama [15:26]: "Now we were three people there."

Despite their best efforts, the harsh conditions and physical exhaustion take a toll, culminating in a near-fatal fall that tests their resilience and determination to survive.

Pasang Lama [14:58]: "I don't know how to get down."

Rescue and Reunion

Back at Camp 4, a massive rescue operation is underway. As the sun rises, Wilko, battling snow blindness, stumbles upon trapped climbers, including Jumik, a cousin of Pasang Lama, and two missing Korean climbers. Faced with impossible choices, Wilko decides to prioritize his survival, leaving the tangled climbers behind in a heart-wrenching moment of self-preservation.

Wilko van Royen [26:19]: "I was fighting for my own life. I had to say goodbye."

Simultaneously, others like Shiring Dorje Sherpa and Pasang Lama manage to make their way back safely, reuniting with team members and expressing profound relief and gratitude.

Eric Meyer [18:17]: "I've never seen anyone so grateful to be where they were as. As he was. We were okay. Our entire team was okay."

Conclusion

"Descent into Madness" masterfully captures the extreme challenges faced by climbers on K2, blending raw human emotion with the unforgiving reality of high-altitude mountaineering. Natalia Melman Petruzella skillfully weaves personal narratives with broader themes of ambition, survival, and the mystical elements that often accompany tales of extreme adventure.

As the episode concludes, listeners are left on a cliffhanger, eager to discover the outcomes of the climbers' perilous journey in the next installment of Extreme Season 2.

Notable Quotes with Timestamps

• Wilko van Royen [00:21]: "Von de Katwe. Yeah, I am to feel that you're between heaven and earth. This is it, what we were fighting for and dreaming for. And now it's done."

• Wilko van Royen [03:03]: "I said to them, listen, we have to stop because we're taking too much risk. Tomorrow the sun will be rising."

• Wilko van Royen [22:07]: "Painful like hell. And is getting worse and worse."

• Wilko van Royen [26:19]: "I was fighting for my own life. I had to say goodbye."

• Eric Meyer [18:17]: "I've never seen anyone so grateful to be where they were as. As he was. We were okay. Our entire team was okay."

Extreme continues to deliver riveting stories of human endurance and the relentless pursuit of the impossible. Subscribe to stay updated on the next thrilling episode of Peak Danger.