Fashion Neurosis with Bella Freud: Episode Summary - Featuring Es Devlin

Release Date: April 22, 2025

In this engaging episode of Fashion Neurosis, Bella Freud delves deep into the intricate relationship between fashion, identity, and artistic expression with the renowned stage designer, director, and artist Es Devlin. Their conversation traverses Es's personal journey, creative processes, and philosophical insights, offering listeners a profound exploration of how clothing serves as a medium for self-expression and societal commentary.

1. Personal Style and Comfort

Timestamp: [01:08] - [02:36]

The conversation kicks off with Es Devlin discussing her current wardrobe choices. She highlights her affinity for yellow and comfortable attire, emphasizing how her clothing makes her feel like herself.

EZ: "The reason I'm wearing these items is because I love the color yellow and I feel incredibly comfortable and like myself in them." ([01:26])

Bella compliments Es's jeans, likening her appearance to that of an "invincible traveler," which Es humorously corrects by mentioning she's actually on her bike.

2. Artistic Restlessness and Curiosity

Timestamp: [02:48] - [03:42]

Bella probes into Es's relentless pursuit of diverse mediums in her work. Es attributes her constant evolution to a profound curiosity and a recognition of life's fleeting nature, rather than mere restlessness.

EZ: "I am really aware of how short and precious life is and every day is, and want to express every instinct to follow each lead that curiosity presents." ([03:14])

3. Childhood Influences and Identity Formation

Timestamp: [03:42] - [05:36]

Es reflects on her upbringing as the second of four children, often emulating her sister's style until she could assert her own identity. A pivotal memory involves her creating a knitted dress outfit, symbolizing her "child warrior" alter ego, set against a forest backdrop.

EZ: "That's probably the abiding alter ego of sort of child warrior or something." ([04:05])

She recounts a transformative school experience in Bedgberry Forest, where creating a shelter and collaborating with peers left a lasting impact, culminating in her work being showcased at the Tate Britain.

4. Transition to Femininity and Personal Space

Timestamp: [05:36] - [12:23]

Es discusses her transition from girlhood to womanhood, centered around her creatively painted bedroom. Influenced by Japanese art and music from Kate Bush, she transformed her space into a canvas that embodied her evolving self.

EZ: "I decided that I would match these colors with Dulux paint... something in that being, having a sense that rooms and places could have their own agency." ([07:49])

A poignant moment arises when disloyal friends graffitied her mural. Es responds with resilience, painting over the defacement and continuing her creative endeavors unfazed.

EZ: "I didn't really fucking care. I just painted over them, carried the fuck on." ([12:04])

5. Career Beginnings and Creative Decisions

Timestamp: [12:23] - [17:29]

Es shares her early career struggles, working various odd jobs until discovering stage design at 22. Her entry into the field was driven by the allure of the creative environment rather than a passion for theater.

EZ: "I just liked the room a lot where the course was... I did the course because I wanted to be in that room." ([15:50])

Bella and Es reminisce about how Es’s unconventional attire, like wearing handcrafted Converse shoes to her first major meeting, became a memorable aspect of her professional image.

6. The Intersection of Fashion and Storytelling

Timestamp: [27:20] - [43:59]

The dialogue shifts to Es's philosophy on fashion as a storytelling medium. She emphasizes the importance of narrative in her work, ensuring that every fashion show and installation conveys a coherent story or message. A notable example is her collaboration with Nicolas Ghesquiere at Louis Vuitton, where a single image of light shafts served as the foundation for the entire show.

EZ: "The text of that first show was an extraordinary photograph... shafts of light coming through high windows." ([43:59])

Es highlights the transformative power of collective perception in fashion events, where shared moments can alter the audience's understanding and experience instantaneously.

7. Embracing Otherness and Creative Growth

Timestamp: [48:07] - [52:07]

Es delves into her evolving perception of otherness, explaining how earlier apprehensions have transformed into a celebration of diversity and unexpected ideas. This shift allows her to grow artistically by embracing perspectives different from her own.

EZ: "The older I get, the more I love something that's unexpected and other to me." ([48:21])

8. Collaborative Projects and Dignity in Art

Timestamp: [52:07] - [56:30]

Discussing her project with the UNHCR, Es illustrates her commitment to maintaining the dignity of participants. She recounts the inception of creating 50 portraits of refugees, emphasizing co-authorship and mutual respect.

EZ: "How will their dignity be actually increased by partaking of this work... Could they be co-authors?" ([53:51])

9. Self-Portraiture and Personal Reflection

Timestamp: [56:30] - [59:45]

Es narrates her process of creating self-portraits as preparatory work for her refugee project. Utilizing magnification mirrors, she experimented with capturing the essence of light and self-perception, culminating in deeply personal artworks that blend her identity with artistic abstraction.

EZ: "It was like the Turin shroud... like the light of that person had been caught in those pages." ([58:38])

10. Concluding Thoughts on Attention and Collective Consciousness

Timestamp: [23:54] - [39:51], [39:18] - [42:07]

Towards the end of the episode, Es discusses Ian McGilchrist's theories on brain hemispheres and the need for balanced attention. She connects this to societal imbalances and emphasizes the importance of collective shifts in perception and attention for a more empathetic world.

EZ: "If we can all agree to change our mind about what quality of attention we're paying to the planet and to the world." ([39:51])

Final Reflections

Throughout the episode, Bella Freud and Es Devlin intertwine personal anecdotes with broader philosophical discussions, revealing how fashion serves as a powerful conduit for identity, storytelling, and societal reflection. Es's journey underscores the interplay between comfort, creativity, and the relentless pursuit of artistic truth, offering listeners a nuanced perspective on the essence of fashion beyond mere aesthetics.

Notable Quotes:

• Es Devlin on Creativity:
  "I want to express every instinct to follow each lead that curiosity presents." ([03:14])

• Es Devlin on Resilience:
  "I just carried the fuck on." ([12:23])

• Es Devlin on Fashion as Storytelling:
  "The text of that first show was an extraordinary photograph... shafts of light coming through high windows." ([43:59])

• Es Devlin on Embracing Otherness:
  "The older I get, the more I love something that's unexpected and other to me." ([48:21])

• Es Devlin on Collective Consciousness:
  "If we can all agree to change our mind about what quality of attention we're paying to the planet and to the world." ([39:51])

This episode offers a rich tapestry of discussions that illuminate the profound connections between fashion, personal identity, and artistic expression. Es Devlin's insights provide a compelling narrative on leveraging fashion as a medium for storytelling and societal influence, making it a must-listen for enthusiasts eager to explore the deeper layers of style and creativity.