Podcast Episode Summary: Fashion Neurosis with Jonathan Anderson

Episode Details:

• Title: Fashion Neurosis with Jonathan Anderson
• Host: Bella Freud
• Release Date: December 11, 2024

Introduction

In this illuminating episode of Fashion Neurosis, Bella Freud engages in a deep and thoughtful conversation with Jonathan Anderson, the acclaimed fashion designer behind brands like JW Anderson and Loewe. The discussion traverses Jonathan’s personal experiences, his creative process, and the intricate relationship between fashion, identity, and culture.

Personal Style and Influences

Jonathan Anderson begins by sharing his minimalist approach to personal style, revealing a preference for uniformity in his wardrobe. “[...] I find with the work that I do, I think it's nearly like cooking. When you cook, sometimes it's very hard to eat it. So I feel like I need to be some sort of, like, blank canvas to project onto other people” ([02:53]). This disciplined personal style contrasts sharply with the bold and experimental nature of his designs, highlighting his desire to maintain a clear separation between personal expression and professional creativity.

He credits his early fascination with fashion icons such as Jean Paul Gaultier, Vivienne Westwood, and Dolce & Gabbana, which ignited his passion for the unspoken language of clothing. “I always was kind of obsessed with that idea of, like, this decoration… the identity of when we wear something. What does it tell you about yourself” ([05:43]).

Growing Up in Northern Ireland

A significant portion of the conversation delves into Jonathan’s upbringing in Northern Ireland during the tumultuous years of the Troubles. This environment profoundly shaped his worldview and creative ethos. “[...] living in that period… It was sort of like checking underneath your car” ([07:43]). The constant undercurrent of conflict and the need for self-expression through fashion became a driving force in his life.

Jonathan recounts an early experience where his unconventional attire made him feel alienated: “I remember wearing like a smiley T-shirt, like huge, and these baggy trousers that would have probably fitted my dad, and I was like an alien… it was the first time I realized that clothing can have this sort of divisive act” ([07:45]). This awareness of how clothing can influence perception and identity has remained central to his design philosophy.

Fashion as a Lens for Identity and Society

Jonathan emphasizes fashion’s role in reflecting and shaping personal and societal identities. “Ultimately, I think that's what I've been always fascinated about, clothing is this idea of the identity of when we wear something. What does it tell you about yourself” ([05:43]). He believes that fashion serves as a medium through which individuals navigate and communicate their place in the world.

He discusses the impact of gender norms on fashion, sharing a poignant childhood memory about a puffer jacket with a zip on the "woman’s side," which led to his early contemplation of gendered clothing and the societal codes attached to it. “[...] I always was obsessed by this idea of, like, the coding that you get in clothing that is enforced onto you as a child” ([06:25]).

Creative Process and Design Philosophy

When exploring his creative process, Jonathan likens designing fashion to cooking—both require a balance of creativity and discipline. He strives for a “blank canvas” approach, allowing his designs to become a medium for others to project their identities. “When you know something is going to commercially work, it's very difficult to know” ([55:21]). This uncertainty fuels his experimentation and pushes him to continually innovate.

Jonathan also discusses the importance of simplicity and surrealism in his designs. He cites examples like the pigeon bag at JW Anderson, which began as a playful concept but evolved into a commercial success. “Sometimes the kind of simplicity in the act of something makes it quite surreal” ([57:11]).

Collaborations and Campaigns

A highlight of the episode is Jonathan’s collaboration on the film Queer with director Luca Guadagnini. He shares his excitement and the challenges of transitioning from fashion design to costume design for a period film. “It was during the pandemic, as it was coming to an end, or kind of the part where you could travel… it was an amazing experience” ([34:53]).

Jonathan reflects on his work with prominent figures like Daniel Craig and Maggie Smith, emphasizing the importance of authenticity and mutual respect in these collaborations. Regarding the Daniel Craig campaign, he explains the intentional choice behind the undone belt as a representation of a "new type of uniform." “The whole show was everything was attached to each other. So it was actually only half a belt on the trousers” ([60:19]).

His collaboration with Maggie Smith under photographer Jurgen Teller stands out as a milestone, capturing the essence and character of his subjects. “When Jurgen shoots, it's just watching him just find this little, like, slither of light into someone that really tells them the honesty of that person” ([62:10]).

Handling Pressure and Maintaining Creativity

Jonathan candidly discusses the pressures of the fashion industry and how he copes with them. He attributes his ability to manage stress to his trust in the teams he builds around him. “If you have the right people around you, it prevents you from blowing up” ([44:32]). He values collaboration and surrounds himself with individuals who challenge and inspire him, avoiding the pitfalls of complacency and ego.

He admits to feeling isolated at times due to the demanding nature of his work but emphasizes the importance of continuous creativity. “I always feel like no matter what I'm doing… it's never done” ([31:32]). This perpetual drive ensures that he remains engaged and innovative, preventing stagnation.

Inspiration from Art and Literature

Jonathan draws significant inspiration from classical art and literature, frequently visiting museums and appreciating masterpieces from artists like Pontormo, Francis Bacon, and Goya. “I love putting combinations of colors together… I'm so fascinated by brain to hand, this idea that you can do brain to hand, color paint and be able to take the world and reflect it into some sort of emotional output” ([50:25]).

He values storytelling in fashion, viewing designers as modern storytellers who reinterpret and build upon historical influences. “I think fashion is like rediscover yourself through the creative process that you love” ([73:54]).

Conclusion and Key Insights

Throughout the episode, Jonathan Anderson articulates a profound understanding of fashion as a complex interplay between personal identity, societal norms, and creative expression. His experiences growing up in a conflict-ridden environment have instilled in him a resilience and a unique perspective that permeates his designs. By maintaining a disciplined personal style and fostering collaborative, challenging work environments, he continues to push the boundaries of fashion.

Key takeaways from Jonathan’s conversation include:

• Fashion as Identity: Clothing is a powerful tool for self-expression and navigating societal structures.
• Influence of Upbringing: Personal experiences, especially challenging ones, significantly shape creative philosophies.
• Collaborative Creativity: Building and trusting a strong team is essential for managing pressure and fostering innovation.
• Continuous Growth: A relentless pursuit of creativity prevents stagnation and keeps the designer engaged.
• Artistic Inspiration: Drawing inspiration from classical art and literature enriches the depth and narrative quality of fashion designs.

Jonathan’s insights offer a compelling glimpse into the mind of a designer who views fashion not merely as apparel but as a dynamic language through which individuals and societies communicate and evolve.

Notable Quotes:

• “I think with the work that I do, I think it's nearly like cooking. When you cook, sometimes it's very hard to eat it. So I feel like I need to be some sort of, like, blank canvas to project onto other people.” ([02:53])
• “Ultimately, I think that's what I've been always fascinated about, clothing is this idea of the identity of when we wear something. What does it tell you about yourself.” ([05:43])
• “It's about putting the gas on gas off somehow.” ([57:58])

This episode of Fashion Neurosis with Jonathan Anderson offers a rich exploration of the intersections between fashion, personal history, and creative expression, providing listeners with a deeper appreciation of the forces that shape modern design.