Fashion People Podcast Summary: Episode “Drama at Dior & A Bally Appreciation Screed”

Release Date: January 28, 2025
Host: Lauren Sherman
Guest: Jacob Gallagher, New York Times Reporter

Introduction

In this episode of Fashion People, host Lauren Sherman welcomes Jacob Gallagher, a reporter from The New York Times, to discuss the latest happenings in the fashion industry. They delve into topics ranging from Men's Fashion Week dynamics to high-profile brand developments and insider dramas within the fashion world.

Men's Fashion Week and the Current Season

Lauren Sherman opens the discussion by highlighting the unusual nature of the current Men's Fashion Week season, noting a general sense of stagnation among many brands. She remarks, “Everybody I talked to was like, it's so dead” (06:31).

Jacob Gallagher offers his perspective, agreeing that the season felt underwhelming. He attributes this to a lack of surprise and excitement from major houses like LVMH and Kering. “The big shows, those LVMH and Kering shows, they're not surprising us, they're not startling us” (07:35).

Prada and Dior/Kim Jones Analysis

The conversation shifts to specific brands, with a focus on Prada and Dior's Kim Jones.

Prada’s Provocative Designs

Lauren Sherman praises Prada for its bold, statement-making designs, saying, “They love to piss you off and in the best way possible” (10:37).

Jacob Gallagher concurs, noting that Prada consistently elicits strong emotions. He references a review by Tommy Ton, stating, “If you read my review and think it's a little too flattering or you don't like what's going on there, go read the two back-to-back posts that Tommy Ton put up” (11:02).

Dior and Kim Jones’ Future

The discussion then moves to Dior and the speculation surrounding Kim Jones' tenure. Lauren Sherman questions whether Jones will stay or be moved within the LVMH empire. “LVMH really values him. So I could see them backing his own brand” (15:42).

Jacob Gallagher provides an insightful analysis of Jones’ recent Dior show, describing it as “a statement of cleanliness, a statement of authority over thread and fabric” (18:36). He contemplates the possibility of Jones launching his own label, similar to Phoebe Philo’s trajectory.

Loewe’s Evolution and Exclusion from the Season

Lauren Sherman brings up Loewe, expressing curiosity about its exclusion from this season's highlights. Jacob Gallagher admits, “I don't know why, but it's missing this season for me” (08:54). They agree that Loewe’s prominent absence contributed to the overall lightweight feel of the season.

Veronique from Hermès: A Pillar of Consistency

The conversation shifts to Veronique from Hermès, celebrating her 36-year tenure. Lauren Sherman remarks on Veronique’s enduring presence, stating, “She’s been there since 1989… it feels like she still belongs there” (23:06).

Jacob Gallagher praises Veronique’s ability to innovate within a storied brand, noting, “She knows her consumer extremely well… there are these things that remind me of Lucas Ozendrever’s Driver’s Lanvin or that remind me of Kiko in a way” (24:20).

Orly’s Normcore Trend and Accessibility

Lauren Sherman and Jacob Gallagher discuss the rise of Orly and its embrace of normcore aesthetics. Jacob Gallagher highlights Orly’s successful integration of everyday wearability with high fashion, stating, “The colors for me… he mixes color in a way that is familiar enough” (28:14).

Lauren Sherman shares her personal experience, mentioning, “I wear it constantly. It’s become part of my personality” (29:44), emphasizing Orly’s appeal and accessibility.

Bally and Simone Bilotti’s Departure

The episode addresses rumors about Simone Bilotti’s departure from Bally. Lauren Sherman references insider information and subsequent confirmations, saying, “He is doing a show in March that you’re gonna get to” (36:42).

Jacob Gallagher expresses excitement for Bilotti’s upcoming show, anticipating that his talent will continue to shine regardless of his next move. “He’s very, very talented… I want to look closer at it” (37:24).

Saint Laurent’s Exclusive Men’s Show

The duo discusses the upcoming Saint Laurent show, focusing exclusively on men’s wear. Jacob Gallagher explains, “It's only men's winter 25… it's tomorrow night at 9 in Paris” (51:32).

Lauren Sherman speculates on the strategic timing, linking it to marketing perspectives and celebrity presence. She notes, “They decide we’re going to show when we want to show because having all the press there is not deeply important to them” (52:52).

Jacob Gallagher adds, “It was very distracted because it just... didn't work for me at all” (40:34), critiquing the cohesion and relevance of the menswear presentations.

Conclusion

In wrapping up, Lauren Sherman and Jacob Gallagher reflect on the complexities and ever-evolving nature of the fashion industry. They acknowledge the challenges brands face in maintaining innovation and relevance while catering to diverse consumer bases. The episode underscores the importance of adaptability and creative vision in sustaining a brand’s legacy amid shifting market dynamics.

Notable Quotes

• Jacob Gallagher: “The big shows, those LVMH and Kering shows, they're not surprising us, they're not startling us” (07:35).

• Lauren Sherman: “They love to piss you off and in the best way possible” (10:37).

• Jacob Gallagher: “He’s very, very talented… I want to look closer at it” (37:24).

Conclusion

This episode provides an in-depth look into the current state of the fashion industry, offering listeners valuable insights from seasoned insiders. From high-stakes brand dynamics to the enduring legacy of iconic figures, Lauren Sherman and Jacob Gallagher navigate the intricate landscape of fashion with expertise and candor. Whether you're a fashion aficionado or a casual enthusiast, this discussion sheds light on the nuanced movements shaping the multi-trillion-dollar industry.