Fashion People: "Dressing Up in a Dressed-Down World" – Episode Summary
Released on February 21, 2025
In this engaging episode of Fashion People, host Lauren Sherman sits down with renowned fashion designer Emilia Wickstead to delve into the intricacies of maintaining elegance in today’s casual era. They explore topics ranging from the importance of Fashion Week, building an independent business post-Brexit, to the delicate balance between creativity and business operations. Below is a detailed summary capturing the key discussions, insights, and conclusions from their conversation.
1. Morning Routines and Personal Well-being (03:31 – 07:08)
Lauren kicks off the conversation by inquiring about Emilia’s morning habits, highlighting the significance of personal routines in a busy entrepreneurial life.
Emilia Wickstead shares her hearty breakfast routine:
“I had porridge which reminded me of my Italian grandmother who used to shake her hips and make porridge for me as a little girl every morning... I have three kiwis every morning and I drink AG1 every morning, take all my supplements.”
[04:07]
They discuss the benefits of AG1, a health supplement, emphasizing the importance of staying healthy amidst the demanding lifestyle of fashion design.
“...I have been lucky enough to sort of stay healthy and it keeps me going and so I really believe in it.”
[04:19]
2. Balancing Parenthood and Entrepreneurship (06:46 – 07:08)
Emilia reveals her role as a mother of two and how she juggles family life with her thriving business.
“I have two... one has just turned 12 and the other is turning 10... They are little people that answer back and are really cute and have great conversations.”
[06:49]
3. Business Operations and Fashion Week Preparations (07:45 – 15:55)
Emilia provides an inside look into her weekly operations, particularly focusing on Thursdays as her designated head-of-department days where she coordinates with various teams to prepare for Fashion Week.
“We do team operations meetings, and I touch base with all of my heads of departments... looking at our SKUs, commercial styles, and how fast we can produce them.”
[07:45]
She elaborates on her dual passion for the creative and business aspects of fashion, highlighting the symbiotic relationship between designing dream collections and managing the logistical facets of runway shows.
“I thrive on the creative part... and I love the business side of fashion.”
[09:33]
4. Collaborative Relationships in Design (10:18 – 12:16)
Lauren brings up Emilia’s collaboration with Harry Lambert, a stylist pivotal to her collections. Emilia emphasizes the importance of a harmonious working relationship that balances creative push and mutual respect.
“We mold nicely together... I love being challenged and pushing my limits.”
[10:18]
She discusses how their partnership allows for both creative freedom and constructive feedback, essential for innovative design.
5. Designing Philosophy and Influences (15:55 – 23:28)
Emilia traces her design philosophy back to her upbringing, influenced heavily by her Italian heritage and her mother's meticulous approach to fashion.
“...the quality of the inside of the garment has to be as good as the outside... extreme special craftsmanship and good fit.”
[19:21]
She underscores the importance of fit and functionality, ensuring that her designs are not only aesthetically pleasing but also comfortable and practical for the wearer.
“Fit is the most important part of it all.”
[21:32]
6. Understanding the Customer and Market Adaptation (23:28 – 28:28)
Emilia discusses the nuances between UK and American markets, noting that the demand for occasion wear in both regions aligns with her brand’s offerings.
“Our customer is very much like our customer here in the UK... So, when you say we don't have that in America, We've definitely got that woman in America.”
[28:28]
She highlights the expanding American market as a significant growth area, reflecting on how her designs cater to a modern, confident woman across different cultures.
7. The Role of Color and Cinematic Inspiration (28:28 – 31:04)
Color plays a central role in Emilia’s design process, inspired by cinematic works that influence the mood and presentation of her collections.
“Color has so much impact on mood and confidence of clothing... I look to cinema, anything old world, and I really play into those color palettes.”
[29:32]
She draws parallels between film aesthetics and fashion, utilizing color schemes to evoke specific emotions and narratives within her collections.
8. Upcoming Collections and Show Themes (31:04 – 34:07)
Emilia hints at her latest collection inspired by Alfred Hitchcock, focusing on how color palettes in film translate to fashion designs.
“Our show is on the Sunday... it's like the world of Hitchcock... how his color palette leans into the mood of the film.”
[31:04]
She expresses excitement about showcasing this cinematic inspiration on the runway, blending traditional elegance with modern interpretations.
9. Cultural Heritage and Brand Identity (34:07 – 35:36)
Emilia delves into how her multicultural background—combining Italian and Samoan heritage—shapes her brand’s identity, fostering a unique blend of tradition and modernity.
“My mother is half Italian... my father is Polynesian from Samoa... I've had this mix of cultures.”
[34:05]
This diverse cultural influence is evident in her versatile designs, catering to a broad spectrum of women globally.
10. Building Infrastructure and Sustainable Growth (35:36 – 44:47)
Emilia discusses the foundational aspects of her business, emphasizing the importance of bespoke and made-to-order services which have been vital for her brand’s resilience, especially during challenging times like the pandemic.
“If we didn't have bespoke and bridal and made to measure, we wouldn't have survived the pandemic.”
[36:24]
She attributes her business’s longevity to a slow fashion approach, focusing on quality, customer satisfaction, and adaptable business models that align with modern consumer demands.
“We started with that... slow fashion has been our secret weapon.”
[39:29]
11. The Value of Fashion Week in a Post-Brexit Era (44:47 – 52:05)
Emilia reflects on the significance of participating in Fashion Week, not just as a marketing tool but as a platform for emotional expression and community building within the fashion industry.
“Fashion is emotion and being in the moment... an experience that you can feel.”
[48:09]
She underscores the unique cultural vibrancy of London Fashion Week, celebrating its role in fostering creative collaborations and sustaining the fashion community’s spirit.
“There's a real culture of that here... it's great to be part of the community.”
[51:09]
12. Ambition and Future Aspirations (41:00 – 43:11)
Emilia shares her ambitious vision for the future, aiming for global expansion and establishing her brand as a staple in women’s wardrobes worldwide.
“Global world domination number one... we want to be everybody's wardrobe.”
[41:00]
She emphasizes continuous innovation while maintaining the brand’s core values of quality and versatility, ensuring lasting relevance in the competitive fashion landscape.
Conclusion
The episode concludes with heartfelt congratulations to Emilia for her remarkable achievements and a reflective note on building a purposeful and resilient fashion brand.
“Congrats on building something real that has a reason to exist. Because that's really hard.”
[51:38]
Fashion People effectively captures Emilia Wickstead’s journey, offering listeners an insightful exploration of balancing creativity with business acumen, the importance of cultural influences, and the enduring relevance of traditional craftsmanship in modern fashion.
Notable Quotes:
- “Fit is the most important part of it all.” – Emilia Wickstead [21:32]
- “Color has so much impact on mood and confidence of clothing.” – Emilia Wickstead [29:32]
- “We started with that... slow fashion has been our secret weapon.” – Emilia Wickstead [39:29]