Fashion People — "Fashion Is Transformed" (October 10, 2025)

Podcast Overview

In this post-Fashion Month episode of Fashion People, host Lauren Sherman (Puck’s Fashion and Beauty Memo Line Sheet) welcomes Interview Editor-in-Chief Mel Ottenberg. Together, they deep-dive into what’s genuinely transformative behind the scenes: designer debuts at legendary houses, industry reactions, creative reinventions, and why certain collections set the tone for the coming year. Their conversation is both analytical and conversational, combining insider perspectives, industry anecdotes, and trendspotting with classic fashion banter.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

[05:19] The Impact of Demna at Gucci

• Reflecting on Predictions: Mel recalls his earlier forecast that Demna would usher in a new era for Gucci:

  "He's going to grow up and leave the over street style, grungy part of Demna behind and do something amazing. And it's like such an amazing once in a lifetime opportunity for, for one of the best designers in the world. And now look what happened." (Mel Ottenberg, 06:15)

• Results Count: Lauren highlights how Demna’s changes translated to real-world sales, especially with revamped staple products:

  "I'm really here for the fact that this Jackie bag, he like fixed this bag and now it's selling out like crazy." (Lauren Sherman, 07:37)

• Swift Success: The duo emphasizes how quickly the executive and creative shifts paid off at Gucci, with a 68% rise in Kering’s stock since new CEO Luca Di Meo’s arrival.

[08:28] Innovative Show Formats: Spike Jonze’s Gucci Film

• Milan Opening: Lauren describes a "chill," glamorous film screening starring Demi Moore and Ed Norton, blending Hollywood with the Runway. Mel applauds the versatility in casting, representing Gucci’s appeal to both "normal" and avant-garde clientele.

[11:16] Elegance’s Return in a Casual Age

• Reframing Elegance: Lauren and Mel discuss growing desire for elegance amid a sea of athleisure:

  "A big theme maybe this season...is like, this idea of elegance, like, defining elegance in this age where we all...just wear stretch pants all day long." (Lauren Sherman, 11:16)

• Mel shares his love of both "trashy" and "elegant," but feels, "Right now it feels like we all need a little bit of elegance because the world is so disgusting." (Mel Ottenberg, 11:39)

[12:34] Designers and the State of the World

• Fashion’s Political Stance: Notably, only Alessandro Michele directly addressed political unrest in his show; most others focused on escapism. Mel and Lauren unpack whether fashion should comment on or shield from broader turmoil.

  "I also don't think that kind of was glad that we were looking at fashion shows with clothes most of the time..." (Mel Ottenberg, 12:45)

[13:35] Jean Paul Gaultier by Duran Lantink: Pushing Boundaries

• Nostalgia & Controversy: Mel shares a formative teen story involving Gaultier, underscoring the brand’s lasting clubwear appeal and stirring "trashiness." Lauren appreciated provocativeness but wanted more for everyday buyers ("a basic bee who lives on the east side of Los Angeles").
• Internet Backlash: Both hosts highlight how internet critiques don’t always reflect on-the-ground impact.

[18:08] D.C. Fashion Connection

• An aside exploring the quirky prevalence of top designers from the greater D.C. area (Michael Rider, Talia Chetrwyd).

[18:22] Michael Rider at Celine: Real Clothes, Real Desire

• Both Mel and Lauren are impressed with Rider’s confident Celine show:

  "There's just a lot of desire for real clothes." (Mel Ottenberg, 18:22)

• Lauren links Rider and other designers’ nostalgic references (Michael Celine, Dario at Versace), noting an ’80s vibe across European and American brands.

[20:52] Versace’s Dario Vitale: Returning to Roots

• A Polarizing Collection: Mel embraces Dario's collection for pushing Versace’s original codes:

  "Have you. Do you know anything before 2018, kid? Cuz this is very Versace and it's cool and I'd like. I want to see Dario cook." (Mel Ottenberg, 20:52)

• Lauren suggests new designers bring fresh perspectives, invigorating sales and the industry.

[26:03] Simone Bellotti at Jil Sander: Modernizing Minimalism

• Lauren and Mel discuss the challenges of updating minimalist brands when their signatures are perennially referenced.
• Mel believes success is determined by "the taste and the codes of Jil Sander," crediting Bellotti with an appropriately subtle update.

[29:55] Jonathan at Dior: Subtle Provocation

• Lauren can’t stop "hemming and hawing" over Jonathan’s new vision at Dior, which challenged expectations.
• Mel, echoing an anonymous CMO, predicts commercial success for the new interpretation:

  "It's the first time that it's been this Dior thing and simple fabrics that's really cool. And we think that the girls are going to go crazy for it." (Mel Ottenberg, 30:32)

[34:12] Loewe’s Jack McCollough & Lazaro Hernandez: A Dynamic Debut

• Mel calls it "the best energy" of the season:

  "...Fast girls, incredible music...It was what I wanted to see and people were loving on it. And it was like a real. That was just a great moment." (Mel Ottenberg, 34:21)

• Lauren notes their fusion of clever design, color, sophistication, and versatility:

  "It looked really sophisticated and cool, but it also fit and looked sexy and relaxed and was easy to put on." (Lauren Sherman, 35:56)

[38:25] Balenciaga’s Transition: A New Kind of Luxury

• Mel praises the new luxury direction, feeling it speaks to consumers left behind by prior creative shifts:

  "I liked how Balenciaga looked very luxury, and it looked very far away from Demna's Balenciaga..." (Mel Ottenberg, 38:28)

• Lauren and Mel agree: details like big glasses and flip-flops felt less relevant; the dresses and pants stole the show, recalling Ghesquière-era innovations.

[42:36] Hermès: The Season’s Leather Muse

• Mel hails Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski’s mastery of the "leather daddy" look, comparing it to the ‘80s film Cruising and applauding the season’s best leatherwork.

[46:02] Chanel: The Show That Changed Everything

• An effusive closing segment, with both hosts declaring Chanel’s runway a potential industry game-changer.
• Mel extols the "loose slouchiness" and fresh take on suits:

  "I was really excited about the Chanel suits and what the suit can be in the modern world. And also we just really need things to change." (Mel Ottenberg, 47:01)

• Lauren identifies the show’s realism and relevance:

  "...this is how people...Low slung. A low slung skirt. A great shirt from Charvet, where we all buy shirts anyway. An awesome jacket and a bag and a pair of shoes..." (Lauren Sherman, 48:39)

• Both agree the casting of the new designer was a bold but perfect choice.

[54:01] The Holy Trinity: Matthieu Blazy, Raf Simons, Peter Mühlbauer

• Lauren calls for greater recognition of three pivotal designers—Matthieu, Raf, and Peter—who have "transformed the way we dress as humans," suggesting their collective influence warrants a book.

[55:05] Prada: Perpetual Innovation

• Both hosts salute Prada/Simons for their unique, thesis-driven work:

  "They're the only people that you look on a Runway and you're like, here's a thesis, a college thesis. No matter what." (Lauren Sherman, 55:28)

Memorable Quotes and Moments

• On Internet Opinions:

  "Don't listen to the Internet. Come on. It's like also, that always seemed dumb, but also it's fun to just watch someone work and then really tear it." (Mel Ottenberg, 07:14)

• On Versace’s Return:

  "It’s one of my favorite collections. Also. Don’t listen, don’t believe all the hate you read...have you. Do you know anything before 2018, kid? Cuz this is very Versace" (Mel Ottenberg, 20:52)

• On Dior’s Challenge:

  "Dior is just a much harder brand than Chanel...there aren’t that many codes...but...the pure of what he has to work with is so vast and yet so narrow." (Lauren Sherman, 32:20)

• On Loewe’s New Focus:

  "It was what I wanted to see and people were loving on it. And it was like a real. That was just a great moment." (Mel Ottenberg, 34:21)

• On Chanel’s Influence:

  "This is gonna change the industry. I can't even believe it." (Lauren Sherman, 46:02)

Timestamps for Key Segments

• [05:19] — Demna’s Gucci Transformation & Kering’s Resurgence
• [08:28] — Gucci’s Spike Jonze Film; Chill Glamour at Milan’s Opener
• [11:16] — Elegance’s Comeback: A Big-Theme Season
• [12:34] — Fashion (Not) Addressing Politics
• [13:35] — Jean Paul Gaultier x Duran Lantink: Clubwear & Scandal
• [18:22] — Celine & the D.C. Design Connection
• [20:52] — Versace under Dario Vitale: Early Reviews & Internet Hot Takes
• [26:03] — Jil Sander Minimalism: Modern Problems Updating Classics
• [29:55] — Dior’s New Era: Subtlety, Provocation, and Commercial Promise
• [34:12] — Loewe’s Energy Surge: Fast Fashion Shows & American Luxury
• [38:25] — Balenciaga: The Dawn of a Softer Luxury
• [42:36] — Hermès: Leather, Politics, and Enduring Craft
• [46:02] — Chanel: Industry-Changing Realism & Showmanship
• [54:01] — The Three Masters; A Call for a Retrospective
• [55:05] — Prada: Consistent Innovation and Smart Thesis

Concluding Notes

Lauren and Mel’s lively back-and-forth captures Fashion Month’s crossroads: The balance of fantasy and practicality, the chaotic digital response to creative risks, and the emergence of new-old classics. Their mutual excitement over Chanel’s "transformative" show and Loewe’s dynamism ends the episode on an optimistic note about what’s possible for industry and culture—even as both are being, in their words, "transformed."

Podcast Tone: Analytical, witty, insider-y, opinionated, and propelled by genuine passion for fashion’s evolving narrative.

For fashion people, by fashion people: If you want to feel the pulse of what’s coming next, this is the episode.