Fashion People Podcast Summary: Episode "Gatecrashers and Gatekeepers"

Release Date: June 27, 2025
Host: Lauren Sherman
Guest: Robin Gavan, Pulitzer Prize-Winning Journalist and Author of Make It Ours, Crashing the Gates of Culture with Virgil Abloh

1. Introduction

Lauren Sherman opens the episode by welcoming Robin Gavan, a renowned journalist and author, to discuss his latest work centered on Virgil Abloh—a pivotal figure in the intersection of fashion and culture. Sherman provides context about her recent activities, including hosting a Puck dinner and attending high-profile events, setting the stage for an insightful conversation about the evolving fashion industry.

2. Robin Gavan’s Motivation Behind the Book

Robin Gavan delves into the inspiration for his book, Make It Ours, Crashing the Gates of Culture with Virgil Abloh. He explains that Virgil’s untimely passing and the profound emotional response from the fashion community were catalysts for him to explore Virgil’s career and legacy.

[09:14] Robin Gavan: “I was really kind of taken aback by the degree of outpouring of emotion. It felt like people had lost a friend.”

Gavan emphasizes the dichotomy between his initial critical perspective on Virgil’s work and the undeniable fandom that surrounded him, highlighting the complex relationship between critique and admiration in the fashion world.

3. Virgil Abloh’s 3% Rule

A significant portion of the discussion revolves around Virgil Abloh’s innovative 3% rule, a principle stating that altering an existing design by just 3% effectively creates something new. Gavan elucidates how this rule, rooted in Virgil’s DJ background where remixing is fundamental, was both lauded and criticized within the industry.

[12:38] Robin Gavan: “His 3% principle was the notion that if you change an existing item by 3%, you’ve essentially created something new.”

Gavan notes that this approach allowed Virgil to navigate criticism and legal challenges gracefully, positioning his work as continuous evolution rather than blatant copying.

[13:40] Robin Gavan: “It was an interesting way of thinking about doing fashion and skirting around criticism.”

4. Virgil’s Relationship with Kanye West and Other Designers

The conversation shifts to Virgil’s dynamic with Kanye West, exploring how their collaboration influenced Virgil’s trajectory in the fashion industry. Gavan shares anecdotes highlighting Virgil’s humility and openness, despite his growing influence.

[25:06] Robin Gavan: “There was this initial connection between Virgil and Kanye, two sides of the same coin, both deeply immersed in design and culture.”

Gavan also touches upon Virgil’s mentorship and collaborative relationships with emerging designers like Heron Preston and Matthew Williams, illustrating Virgil’s role in fostering new talent within the industry.

5. Virgil’s Management Style at Louis Vuitton

Robin Gavan provides an in-depth analysis of Virgil Abloh’s tenure at Louis Vuitton, emphasizing his unique management approach. Unlike traditional executives, Virgil leveraged modern technology and informal communication channels to streamline processes and encourage real-time collaboration.

[48:04] Robin Gavan: “Virgil just created a text chain on WhatsApp so people could have conversations in real time, approving things instantly.”

This unconventional method allowed for rapid decision-making and fostered a more inclusive and dynamic work environment, setting Virgil apart as a forward-thinking leader.

6. Influence on Luxury Fashion and Cultural Appropriation

Gavan discusses Virgil Abloh’s impact on luxury fashion, particularly how he navigated and transformed cultural appropriation within the industry. Virgil’s approach redefined luxury by embedding cultural significance and community resonance into his designs, thereby democratizing luxury fashion.

[56:28] Robin Gavan: “Virgil’s use of 'we' was important in bringing in consumers and making them feel they had a stake in what he was doing.”

Gavan argues that Virgil’s success at Louis Vuitton signaled a shift towards valuing marketing expertise and cultural storytelling over traditional design prowess, reflecting broader changes in the luxury fashion landscape.

7. Virgil’s Legacy and Cultural Impact

In the concluding segments, Gavan reflects on Virgil Abloh’s enduring legacy and his contributions to culture and the fashion industry. He posits that Virgil’s work will be remembered not just for his designs but for how he redefined luxury and inclusivity in fashion.

[71:12] Robin Gavan: “He encouraged designers and creative people who felt like outsiders to ask the industry, 'Why not me?' and celebrate that identity.”

Gavan envisions Virgil’s influence as a catalyst for ongoing changes in how fashion intersects with cultural identity and community, ensuring that Virgil’s legacy continues to inspire future generations.

8. Closing Remarks

Lauren Sherman wraps up the episode by expressing gratitude to Robin Gavan for his insightful contributions. She hints at exploring more topics in future episodes, ensuring listeners remain engaged with the evolving narratives within the fashion industry.

Notable Quotes:

• Robin Gavan [09:14]: “I was really kind of taken aback by the degree of outpouring of emotion. It felt like people had lost a friend.”
• Robin Gavan [12:38]: “His 3% principle was the notion that if you change an existing item by 3%, you’ve essentially created something new.”
• Robin Gavan [25:06]: “There was this initial connection between Virgil and Kanye, two sides of the same coin, both deeply immersed in design and culture.”
• Robin Gavan [48:04]: “Virgil just created a text chain on WhatsApp so people could have conversations in real time, approving things instantly.”
• Robin Gavan [56:28]: “Virgil’s use of 'we' was important in bringing in consumers and making them feel they had a stake in what he was doing.”
• Robin Gavan [71:12]: “He encouraged designers and creative people who felt like outsiders to ask the industry, 'Why not me?' and celebrate that identity.”

This episode of Fashion People offers a comprehensive exploration of Virgil Abloh’s profound impact on fashion and culture, through the expert lens of Robin Gavan. For listeners seeking to understand the intricacies of fashion’s evolution and the pivotal roles played by industry leaders, this episode is an invaluable resource.