Fashion People – "Jane Addiction"

Host: Lauren Sherman
Guest: Marissa Meltzer, Author of It Girl: The Life and Legacy of Jane Birkin
Date: October 3, 2025

Episode Overview

This episode dives deep into the legacy of Jane Birkin, examining her impact as a style icon, her cross-cultural persona, and her enduring influence on fashion, culture, and personal identity. Author and journalist Marissa Meltzer joins Lauren Sherman to discuss her recent biography of Birkin and what it means to build and maintain an "effortless" legacy in fashion—and why Birkin’s story transcends style manuals and influencer culture. Listeners get an inside look at Birkin’s life, her relationship with French and British societies, and her surprisingly understated views on her own fame.

Key Discussion Points & Insights

1. Why Jane Birkin?

[08:42] Marissa Meltzer:

• The idea for the biography sparked after Birkin’s death but was also a perfect convergence for Meltzer’s interests: fashion, music, film, and French culture.
• Meltzer chose to write a comprehensive biography, moving beyond the "how to get French girl style" genre.
• Quote: “There’s always a certain point where I have to get out of my own way. And for this book, it was focusing on her life...” ([09:55], Meltzer)

[11:25] Lauren Sherman:

• Praises Meltzer for her focus and restraint, saying the book avoids overwhelming the reader with trivia (“kill your darlings” in journalism).

2. Birkin’s Upbringing & Cross-Cultural Identity

[16:07] Marissa Meltzer:

• Discusses Birkin’s upper-middle-class British roots, her “stiff upper lip” upbringing, and how the contrast with French culture made her transition unique.
• Birkin’s move to France in 1968 placed her at the center of two major cultural moments: the British “youthquake” and the louche Parisian 1970s nightlife.
• Quote: “She sort of fully embodied the swinging 60s youthquake ... then fully embodied sort of the louche nightclub, ... 1970s Yves Saint Laurent Paris.” ([17:46], Meltzer)

[19:39] Meltzer:

• Discusses the insular nature of both British and French social circles, noting that Birkin’s acceptance in France was unusual (“Paris is so the center ... it can be really hard to break into.”)

3. The "Style Icon" Phenomenon

[25:34] Lauren Sherman:

• Opens a discussion of what constitutes personal style and the origins of Birkin’s “look.”
• [26:04] Marissa Meltzer:
  • Attributes Birkin’s style to her British background, theatrical family, and love of authentic, unforced dressing (e.g., her market basket, “espadrilles bought on vacation”).
  • Birkin’s apparel choices were often organic, stemming from individual taste rather than fashion mandates.

[28:55] Lauren Sherman:

• Considers other style icons: Jean Seberg, Catherine Deneuve, Brigitte Bardot, and questions inclusivity in the canon of “style icons.”

[29:35] Meltzer:

• Points out the “whitewashed” aspect of historical style iconography and discusses the possibility of Rihanna as a modern, more diverse successor.

4. The Birkin Bag: Myth & Reality

[32:41] Marissa Meltzer:

• Birkin was not a calculated capitalist—she did not profit significantly from the Birkin bag’s massive commercial success.
• She “wanted things on her own, very specific terms” and eschewed the typical path of celebrity product licensing or self-branding.

[35:46] Lauren Sherman & Meltzer:

• Discussion of the Birkin’s rollercoaster status in the resale market and how the “Kelly” and “Birkin” cycles represent shifting values.
• Notable Moment: Meltzer owns a vintage Kelly, dreams of a Birkin, and reflects on seeing Birkin’s actual bag at auction.
• Quote: “It must be odd to have the kind of most famous thing about you and your name belong to something else.” ([38:13], Meltzer)

5. Birkin’s Approach to Fame and Contentment

[39:33] Lauren Sherman & Meltzer:

• Birkin was content with “enough”—she valued work-life balance, spent time with her family, and didn’t strive for relentless fame.
• Meltzer references Birkin’s diaries for a behind-the-scenes look at a life spent not only working, but living.
• Quote: “She valued work, life, balance, she cooked, she had a nice but not overly fancy country house...she worked, but...she seemed to spend plenty of time with her kids...” ([40:00], Meltzer)

[41:43] Meltzer:

• Birkin’s measured ambitions are viewed as almost alien in today’s hyper-capitalist, hyper-visible society.
• Her “normalcy” and indifference to fame are precisely what feels so aspirational now.

6. The Modern Absence of "Effortlessness"

[42:43] Lauren Sherman:

• Discusses how constant connectivity, branding, and social curation have eroded the concept of authentic cool—Birkin’s type is rare today.
• Quote: “They always say the end of cool and no one's cool anymore. And I think that's kind of true.” ([43:41], Sherman)

[43:52] Meltzer:

• Birkin’s complexity, occasional mistakes, and unmanicured persona made her relatable. Today’s celebrities are over-styled and curated by teams.

7. Style Takeaways—What Birkin Inspires Us to Buy

[47:09] Lauren Sherman:

• Asks Meltzer if researching Birkin led her to make any fashion purchases.
• [47:22] Marissa Meltzer:
  • Jokes about resisting Birkin’s iconic bangs.
  • Bought “a healthy amount of Alaia” and a beaded Alberta Ferretti skirt reminiscent of Birkin’s era.
  • Respects Birkin’s approach to owning a few well-chosen pieces.

[48:57] Podcast Host:

• Praises the book for enriching the reader’s life, with details that prompt readers to actually Google Birkin’s iconic looks.

Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments

• “There’s always a certain point where I have to get out of my own way. And for this book, it was focusing on her life...” – Marissa Meltzer [09:55]
• “She sort of fully embodied the swinging 60s youthquake ... then fully embodied sort of the louche nightclub, ... 1970s Yves Saint Laurent Paris.” – Marissa Meltzer [17:46]
• “It must be odd to have the kind of most famous thing about you and your name belong to something else.” – Marissa Meltzer [38:13]
• “She valued work, life, balance ...she seemed to spend plenty of time with her kids...” – Marissa Meltzer [40:00]
• “They always say the end of cool and no ones cool anymore. And I think that's kind of true.” – Lauren Sherman [43:41]

Timestamps for Important Segments

• 08:42 – Why write a Jane Birkin biography?
• 16:07 – Birkin’s British roots & cultural adaptation to France
• 25:34 – The origins of Birkin’s personal style
• 28:55 – The style icon canon & diversity
• 32:41 – The economics and myth of the Birkin bag
• 39:33 – Birkin’s relationship with fame and contentment
• 42:43 – The erosion of effortlessness and "cool"
• 47:09 – What research inspired Meltzer to buy for herself?

Conclusion

Lauren Sherman and Marissa Meltzer deliver a vibrant, thoughtful conversation on Jane Birkin’s multilayered legacy—from the construction of an icon to what it means to live a balanced, authentic life in a world that increasingly commodifies selfhood. The episode blends cultural history, gossip, and style advice, echoing Birkin’s enduring appeal and the impact of genuine, unmanicured individuality.