Fashion People: “Margiela in China & Celine (Dion) in Paris”

Host: Lauren Sherman (Puck)
Guest: Steph Yatka (Global Editorial Director, i-D Magazine)
Date: April 7, 2026

Episode Overview

Lauren Sherman welcomes Steph Yatka back to “Fashion People” for a wide-ranging conversation on emerging and behind-the-scenes topics in fashion. Key focuses include Maison Margiela’s experimental Shanghai show, the complexities of creative director succession, the evolving value of destination shows, the changing relationship between music festivals and style, and what makes today’s most compelling ad campaigns tick. Classic fashion industry banter blends with deep analysis, predictions, and vivid behind-the-scenes anecdotes.

Main Discussion Points & Insights

1. Creative Director Changes: “The Second Person Wins”

Timestamps: 05:45–07:52, 16:40–19:00

• Both Lauren and Steph reflect on the difficulties of missing Fashion Week and how it changes industry perspective.
• Analysis of the succession process at major brands, particularly Margiela, after founder departures.
  • Quote: “It’s good to be the second creative director after the founder leaves... Glenn's in a good place because John [Galliano] broke everything.” (SY, 16:40)
  • John Galliano’s tenure at Margiela enabled Glenn Martens to develop the brand in his own distinctive, modern way, without overbearing reverence for the founder.
  • Discussion extends to other houses, such as Marni and Alaïa, underlining how a disruptive “interim” creative director allows the next one creative freedom.

2. Margiela in Shanghai: Risk and Opportunity in Asia

Timestamps: 07:50–13:26

• Analysis of the importance and impact of Margiela’s Shanghai show—a mix of ready-to-wear and artisanal collections.
  • Glenn Martens’ approach is defined as pragmatic, unsentimental, adventurous, unswayed by ego.
    • Quote: “It feels very modern and it feels very adventurous as far as both the marketing and the branding and also the design.” (SY, 08:37)
• The value of live, local insight (“the right gossip, the right looks, the right takes”)—important especially in today’s digital reporting.
  • Steph: “If you can’t be there, DM five people who are and ask them for the real scoop.”
• The show reflects Margiela’s modern strategy:
  • Relatable, client-centered activations like spotlighting Tabby collectors.
  • Glenn’s “open-source” approach, engaging community, and producing provocative, conversation-sparking design.
• The strategic commercial and cultural opportunities, and complexities, of courting the Chinese luxury market at a moment when consumers expect authenticity.

3. The Secret Sauce of Belgian Design

Timestamps: 24:00–27:46

• Discussion of Belgium’s outsized impact on fashion, rooted in Antwerp’s demanding yet creative school system and a culturally rich, rigorous environment.
  • “Antwerp...is just like an incredible place for design and culture, music and literature, but it doesn’t have the sort of pomp of Paris or even of Milan...” (SY, 26:35)
• The guest and host marvel at how Belgium produces so many influential creative directors.

4. Speculation: Who Will Succeed at Alaïa?

Timestamps: 20:21–24:00

• Debate over potential successors at Alaïa after Peter Mulier’s acclaimed tenure.
  • Zac Posen is mentioned as a strong candidate for his tailoring skill and warm persona.
  • Olivier Theyskens is proposed as someone who brings intense desirability and romance.
  • Importance of combining cutting-edge accessories design with haute tailoring.
  • Quote: “Nobody does romance like [Theyskens]...there’s an intense desire when you see one of his dresses.” (LS, 22:11)

5. Next Moves for Dario Vitale; The “Sports Star” Era of Designer Movement

Timestamps: 28:52–38:59

• Lauren reviews Dario Vitale’s growing hype as a “free agent”—compared to sports star trading.
  • She speculates he’s best suited for Kenzo (“I think Kenzo would be an amazing brand for him...what he has to give would be great at Kenzo”). (LS, 31:26)
  • Discussion of industry rumors: Marc Jacobs and McQueen possibly up for sale (Lauren: “Right now they’re not trying to sell [Marc Jacobs]...They tried to sell it, and it didn’t work out...as for McQueen...everything is for sale, but not right now.”) (34:11)
• Steph lauds Dario’s ability to connect with Gen Z and young millennials, forecasting big potential wherever he lands.
  • Importance of cultivating genuine enthusiasm and new “energy” in design, not mere nostalgia.
• Lively brainstorm about merging fashion and editorial brands—a la The Face, i-D, or Dazed—including running a fashion house with a magazine at its core.

6. Music Festival Fashion: Coachella’s Shifting Role

Timestamps: 44:15–49:50

• Coachella will matter this year, but not for “festival fashion.” Instead, the focus is shifting to what artists wear on stage, which may influence wider fashion trends and brand desirability.
  • Quote: “I think Coachella...what artists wear on stage...is going to become incredibly important to fashion...It’s the new Salone.” (SY, 45:19)
  • Example: Addison Rae in Chloe reclaims “boho” from its tired festival associations.
  • Steph observes, “Festival fashion is over. The heat is on stage.”
• With the proliferation of brand ambassadors and sponsorships, on-stage looks provide a more authentic and memorable brand moment than crowded Fashion Weeks or red carpets.

7. The Power—and Problem—of Fashion Campaigns

Timestamps: 52:04–58:03

• A discussion of how instant gratification and celebrity culture are remaking advertising images.
• Favorite campaigns of the season:
  • Chanel’s Kylie Minogue/Michel Gondry campaign with Margot Robbie—praised for real artistic investment.
  • Prada’s Jordan Wolfson AI project—“provocative, inexplicable, forward-thinking...it really raised the bar for what an ad could be or should be.” (SY, 54:50)
• Lauren critiques the omnipresence of celebrities in campaigns, noting that only some designers meaningfully address the future.

8. Runway Soundtracks and Generational Cool

Timestamps: 58:03–62:39

• Playful debate over which 1990s/2000s songs should be on the next Chanel show soundtrack.
  • Lisa Loeb, PJ Harvey, Hole, Ace of Base, Amy Mann, Indigo Girls and Jewel are all nominated.
  • Ongoing nostalgia (“He’s not cool, but he’s very cute and his clothes are amazing...That’s why the client who’s been there for 50 years is buying it, and 25-year-olds are too.” LS, 54:50)

9. Celine Dion’s Paris Comeback

Timestamps: 62:43–66:26

• Celine Dion is set to perform multiple dates in Paris during fashion week. Steph is enthused (“Montreal’s greatest!”), Lauren is lukewarm on the music but admires Dion’s style and persona.
  • “When you go to Montreal and you pass the cathedral, they’re like ‘that’s where Celine Dion got married’—not ‘that’s the cathedral’...” (SY, 64:25)
• Steph reminisces about Dion singing “Happy Birthday” to her for a Vogue social video.

10. Industry Gossip & Closing Notes

Timestamps: 66:31–69:15

• Steph plugs i-D’s “Lore” issue and hints at a secret project releasing soon.
• Friendly personal banter about weddings and plans for covering future fashion weeks.

Notable Quotes & Moments

• On Glenn Martens at Margiela:

  • "It feels very modern and adventurous...the way Glenn approaches it by open sourcing this Margiela folders project... and design clothes that are provocative and weird—in a good way." (SY, 08:37)

• On creative director transitions:

  • "It’s good to be the second creative director after the founder leaves." (SY, 16:40)

• On destination shows and FOMO:

  • "Being on the other side of the world creates a distance...I avoided the small dramas. It felt like a distilled way to consume Fashion Week." (SY, 05:45)

• On Coachella’s New Significance:

  • "Coachella is the new Salone...Festivals are out, artists on stage are in." (SY, 45:19)

• On fashion’s obsession with nostalgia:

  • "It’s really easy to make something nice that is a remake of the 2000s—but very few are trying to make something for 2030." (SY, 54:50)

Key Timestamps (MM:SS)

• 05:45 — Steph on missing Fashion Week; outsider perspective
• 08:37 — Why Margiela’s Shanghai show matters
• 16:40–19:00 — Second creative director phenomenon
• 20:21–24:00 — Who should take over at Alaïa?
• 31:26–34:11 — Dario Vitale’s next move; Marc Jacobs/McQueen rumors
• 45:19 — Coachella: “new Salone” for fashion
• 52:04–58:03 — Favorite ad campaigns of the season
• 62:43–66:26 — Celine Dion’s Paris residency and fashion’s love for her

Summary Tone

Conversational, witty, and insider-focused. Lauren and Steph combine warmth and humor (“Let’s go through Lilith Fair...”), original reporting, and astute market analysis. The mood is smart but unselfconscious, with deep industry knowledge and a sense of fun.

For Further Reading / Following

• i-D Magazine’s Lore Issue
• Lauren Sherman’s “Line Sheet” newsletter (Puck)
• Steph Yatka’s work at i-D and upcoming reports on Salone and Fashion Week

Final Word

This episode delivers a rich, entertaining deep dive into today’s most important—and overlooked—fashion world conversations, from the strategic to the silly, blending analysis with behind-the-scenes candor. Both industry veterans and curious fans will come away with new frameworks, predictions, and some irresistible new music nostalgia.