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Lauren Sher
Here's a quick PSA from the RealReal saying something is last season. That's so last season. There's already enough clothing on the planet, but the best of the best is on the RealReal. The RealReal is the place to shop authenticated luxury handbags, clothing, watches and so much more. And I should know. I've been a customer since 2012. They've got it all, from Raf Simons era, Jill Sander and archival Mugler to stuff that looks a whole lot like what we just saw on the Runway. So why buy something new when you can just buy something new to you? And right now you can get $25 off your first purchase by visiting therealreal.comfashionpeople or any one of their stores. That's therealreal.comfashionpeople again therealreal.comfashionpeople for $25 off your first purchase. Terms apply. Hello and welcome to Fashion People. I'm Lauren Sher Rodolph Puck's fashion and beauty memo line sheet, and today with me on the show is fashion journalist Max Berlinger. We're talking the Proenza guys at Loewe, the Nike opportunity and queuing up at Pontemp. Happy Tuesday everyone. Hope you had a great weekend. It's beautiful here in la. It's not always beautiful, I swear, but it's really nice this week and I am heading out tonight to attend a party at the Chateau Marmont for Kim Hastrider, her book stuff. Kim curated a very good show in relation to the book at Jeffrey Deitch in New York. They're very good, close friends and I was lucky enough to catch it on my last trip. It was super fab. I hope she brings it out here. Maybe she is and I just don't know. Who knows? Anyway, Kim seems to be out and about all week, so if you happen to be in town for Design space and all that stuff, please don't hesitate to also come down to the Pacific Design center on Saturday, March 30th at 1:00pm or is it? No, it's March 29th at 1:00pm where I'll be taping an episode of Fashion People with Jesse Lee, the guy behind Design Space, which is an art and design fair where you can buy stuff, but also the guy behind Design Miami. If you've been to Art Basel, you've probably gone to Design Miami and also Basic Space, which is the E. Commerce site that's connected to it all. Jesse's been on the POD before and this time we're going to drill down on this theory he has that has sort of become his tagline, which is design is the new luxury. It may sound like a little hokey, but it's true. The thing is, it's true. And so I love that he's like, building a whole brand around it. And so if you're interested in attending, hit me up on laurenoc News and I'll put you in touch. I'll put you in touch with the team or just visit Design Space LA to register. Jesse also has a lot of opinions about designers and which designers should design at which house. So if you're into designer musical chairs, we'll talk about that as well. Speaking of designer musical chairs, this week on Line Sheet, we are busy as usual. On Monday, I talk about the Loewe Proenza stuff that Max and I are going to get into as well. I guess I can't really say that anymore because Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez no longer work at Proenza Schooler. They are on the board, but they are solely the designers of loewe. They start April 7th. So congrats to them again. Max and I get more into that. And on Monday on Line Sheet, I provided all the crucial updates for the future of Saks Global that I know. And as you probably know too, as of January 2025, Saks Global included Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman. So there's lots to talk about. Check that out. Today, Sara Shapiro is back with all you ever needed to know about L.L. bean, the greatest American brand or the biggest American missed opportunity. There is like tons of interesting stuff happening at that company that no one knows about. They're private, but also no one ever bothers asking. And Sarah dug into it and you'll be fascinated by the draw, the sort of corporate drama around the boat tote and the duck boot. It's an awesome story. You should check it out. Anyway, hope you enjoy this time I had with Max. Max Berlinger, welcome to Fashion People.
Max Berlinger
Thanks so much for having me. Long time listener, first time caller.
Lauren Sher
I'm shocked that you haven't been on before. I'm so glad to get you in the rotation.
Max Berlinger
I'm happy to be here. I've been waiting, just twiddling my thumbs up.
Lauren Sher
I'm sure, I'm sure. How was your weekend? Did you go to the Printemps store opening?
Max Berlinger
I did. I went on Thursday and it was fab and I was gonna go over the weekend to sort of see it because it was only sort of half merchandised. For the opening party.
Lauren Sher
Interesting. What do you mean by that?
Max Berlinger
A lot of the racks felt very sparse and the beauty section was basically empty. And there was like food and displays and stuff in that area. So I wanted to sort of see it full, customer facing, ready. But a friend of mine told me that there was lines to get in, which bodes well. So I was sort of like, I'll skip and go during the week sometime.
Lauren Sher
Yeah. I also heard I got a lot of thanks to all the readers who sent messages that and not just Gen Z kids. Like it was like adults waiting in line this weekend.
Max Berlinger
Oh, cool. Yeah, I mean the store itself is very beautiful. They've done a really wonderful job with it. But you know, I think that area has that rocky relationship with department stores.
Lauren Sher
Yeah, it's interesting. So the Puck offices are a three minute walk from one Wall Street. So Printemps is. As for anyone listening who doesn't live in New York or LA or Paris or London, is a big department store in Paris on the Right bank and is beautiful. And one of these like old school Paris department stores and they used to be owned by the P family when the holding company that's now called kering was called PPR. Printemps was one of the Ps. I think it was Printemps Pinot Redout for LA Redout. This weird catalog. Not weird, but like a catalog that they used to own. Sorry, I don't want to offend anyone but. And then they sold it to God, I, I don't remember. But then whoever owned it between the Pinos and now and someone else. And then in 2013 they sold it to like in Qatari and Emir like situation, like the Qatari royal family adjacent. And they've owned it since 2013. And apparently someone messaged me and I'm not going to have time to fact check this, I don't think, but that Printemps actually had a store in Denver in the 80s.
Max Berlinger
Okay.
Lauren Sher
A friend of mine who lives in Paris now.
Max Berlinger
Interesting.
Lauren Sher
I don't under. I don't know if it's true. This. Oh yeah. In Denver. So it's not its first American branch store.
Max Berlinger
Okay, how long did it last?
Lauren Sher
Well, that's going to take too much research, but this is from the New York Times, 1987 by Diane Zala. Oh, D Y A N. I love this name. Diane Zalowski. Yeah, she's definitely from Denver. Really interesting. But they have been planning this Wall street store for quite some time. And Jean Marc who's the CEO, then Laura who's the US CEO. They've been like putting this together, I think since pre pandemic. It was the plan.
Max Berlinger
People were thrilled. And it was like a lot of French people were there. And it was very that. And it was. The architecture was stunning because a lot of it is landmarks. So the shoe room is like mosaics. And it's just really soaring ceilings, but you couldn't touch any of the walls. So everything sort of like these really cool sculptural stands for the shoes in the center of the space. And it's really cool. I would say my favorite part was they have like a real occasion wear sort of room that had a lot of vintage YSL. Like really cool 70s vintage YSL that people were really freaking out about. But then they also had these mannequins higher up that had the most recent Gaultier couture collection. It just felt cool. You're like, yeah, everything's so casual nowadays. It was cool to see like a real salon for occasion wear.
Lauren Sher
Yeah, that's amazing. I didn't. I went during New York Fashion Week and with a hard hat and saw everything. And the shoe room is incredible. It's this mosaic tile from the 30s.
Max Berlinger
Right.
Lauren Sher
That and it was landmarked a few years ago. It's black and red. And I was just blown away, like.
Max Berlinger
And it was like a bank before. So it's like banks had like beautiful.
Lauren Sher
You know, it has like a very 1980s bonfire of the Vanities vibe, which I love. And Laura Gonzalez, who did the interiors. It is everyone. If you haven't looked at the store, you need to go and just Google it. Because it is. It's wacko. Like, it's wacko in the best way possible. It's just absolutely insane. But that's interesting. Cause I didn't get to see it merchandise. I saw the sort of bare bones. And the interiors were so incredible. Like the changing rooms and everything. But I love this idea.
Max Berlinger
Was really cool.
Lauren Sher
Oh, nice.
Max Berlinger
Like a white beauty space. And they have like little pods for massage. I don't know, facials and massages and.
Lauren Sher
Yeah, well, it's. It's definitely. And I think the restaurant and the coffee shop and all that you mentioned down there. So Saks used to be. Is. Is Saks still in Hudson Yards or.
Max Berlinger
No. Are they close? Did you go to that opening? I just. I was talking about that.
Lauren Sher
Yes, I did. I will also know the Neiman Marcus was the. At Hudson Yards, right? Yes, I definitely went to that. Is the Sax down at.
Max Berlinger
What's that wall? World Trade or whatever. The. On the other side.
Lauren Sher
Yeah. I mean, they're. They're corporate offices are down there. Sachs, what's. The San Ambrose is in that building too. Yeah. I don't know.
Max Berlinger
It's like. I don't know. It's like the Amex is, like, above it. Right. And there was like the. It always looked like a. Like a Middle Eastern mall to me. And it had that big food court that all the condos will go to.
Lauren Sher
Brookfield.
Max Berlinger
Brookfield, yes.
Lauren Sher
Yes. Yeah, that San Ambrose is great. Like, that's a big stop. I've gone there with people who work out of Brookfield. Is the Sacks still in Brookfield? Saks?
Max Berlinger
I don't think so. I think it closed. And then there was the Corsicomo, which opened down there, but closed as well.
Lauren Sher
Yeah, so it's hard. It's tough. Here's why I think the one Wall street location is good for. For prom. Look here. Let's caveat with opening a department store in 2025, right?
Max Berlinger
Yes.
Lauren Sher
Which. Another second caveat is that Promptomp says it's not a department store. That's what all the marketing says. So it's not a department store. I mean, it's 55,000 square feet. It does feel. It's not comprehensive. It's like they have a beauty section. They have a really nice fine jewelry section. They have a lot of F and B. Food and beverage is the main driver. But I would say, generally, like, it's a challenge anywhere. Nordstrom opened in New York City in 2013, and that's been challenging too. Even though it's in. On 57th street in the middle of everything. So you have lots of foot traffic. And the Brookfield place of it all. That all was opened right before the pandemic. That's really challenging. And also, it's on the west side by the water. So unless you live down there, it's not gonna be a place you're gonna wanna go to on a regular basis. That said, so 1 Wall Street. The reason I think that it's interesting is a. It's not a comprehensive store. So, like, you're not going there to buy tights or whatever. That could be a detractor. Maybe you are. But on the other hand, like, it's not. It's more of a. I would say more of a destination because the interiors are so incre. Have to go see it. It's kind of like Dover Street Market, where you go there. Basically, treat it like an art. I treat it like an art gallery in a way. I'm Like, I just need to go to Dover street in whatever city I'm in, just to see what they have and see the art. Yeah. And so it feels like that. The other thing is there is a lot of tourist flow from all the like 911 stuff and then also from the Wall street of it all. So you get that tourist flow and then there are just like a ton of art galleries and office spaces and a lot of people who live down there because especially in the 2010s that became a destination because it wasn't that expensive to rent a really nice apartment in financial districts. So I think like that all combo. I know when I'm in the offices in New York, I go to odeon like seven times a week.
Max Berlinger
Right, right.
Lauren Sher
I was there for 10 days during fashion Week and I went. I also stayed near there, so that. But I just kept going there because it's like there isn't anywhere else to go eat. So I think in that way it's going to become. There's no boo, but it's probably going to become like an F and B destination for people who work from down there or live down there.
Max Berlinger
Right. And there's that WSA building sort of nearby. So that could like bring a whole little fashion crowd over from over there to like pop over for a coffee or whatnot.
Lauren Sher
Yeah. Yes, exactly. How often are you in the WSA building?
Max Berlinger
Often, like often enough.
Lauren Sher
Water Street Associates.
Max Berlinger
Yeah. It's funny how it became the. The hot building, the cool building or whatever. But yeah, I mean, especially during Fashion Week, it feels like everything. But also furniture, like a lot of like designy furniture fairs are doing stuff there. And I mean, you know, it's more often than not, you see like on an invite these days that they're having it.
Lauren Sher
So will you, as just a consumer, go to the printemps to like, check it out? Once you've done your, you know, duty as a fashion journalist who covers the city of New York, what will you go down there? Do you think you and. And your partner. I don't. Are you guys married?
Max Berlinger
No, we're just.
Lauren Sher
We're just you and your. You and your. Your guy. Are you guys going to go there on like a Saturday afternoon?
Max Berlinger
Yes.
Lauren Sher
Oh, yes.
Max Berlinger
I think that's like part. I think, you know, like you. I know that you're a prolific shopper, I'll say. But I like to shop and that's part of the job. And that's like the fun part of the job is to keep checking in, keep seeing what people are Buying what people are putting out, how it's different than what other, you know, what Nordstrom's is doing. What? You know, there's a lot of cool, small independent brands or stores in New York right now. And it's like, yeah. So what can this bring to the mix that a Venn Space could not or a. Yeah, Nordstrom Uptown cannot?
Lauren Sher
I agree. I had a friend of mine text me that they dropped several thousand dollars at Venn Space and just had the best time ever.
Max Berlinger
Baby. People are. I go often because it's a 10 minute walk from me.
Lauren Sher
Nice.
Max Berlinger
I go often and I go on weird times. Cause I'm a freelancer, like a Thursday at 2 and there are guys and they are trying things on, they're buying things. It is, it's happening.
Lauren Sher
Next time I'm in town, I gotta go.
Max Berlinger
You haven't been?
Lauren Sher
No. I feel really bad. I know Dan, my husband, has been and was convinced to buy shoes there.
Max Berlinger
Of course. Yes. The shoe selection's amazing. Those dries. Shoot. Those dries, like really like sleek sneakers. He's like a million of them and I feel like they just like fly off the shelves. But it's. Yeah, I mean, he has a great selection of stuff. Really cool, special stuff. And that part of Brownstone Brooklyn, it's like created. You know, all those like Williams Burke creative directors are now dads living down in this area. And they have $2,500 for their winter coat or like you know, $1200 for a shoe.
Lauren Sher
What's the cross street?
Max Berlinger
It's so it's right off of Carroll Park. So it's.
Lauren Sher
Oh, wow.
Max Berlinger
I think it's Carol and it's like Carol and Smith. Or Carol. It's like. No, it's Carol and Court. Leather one Court. Yes.
Lauren Sher
Yeah.
Max Berlinger
And it's on a corner.
Lauren Sher
So it's by the coffee shop.
Max Berlinger
The coffee shop. And what's that place where they make the like griddle cakes? That I forget.
Lauren Sher
I lived on third between Clinton Court for many years.
Max Berlinger
I think that's where the owner, Chris is very like, he. He's like, I live around the corner, you know. His wife is I believe, the US President of Totem. So they're like this little fashion power couple.
Lauren Sher
So fun.
Max Berlinger
Yeah.
Lauren Sher
Maybe they'll do a women's version. That would be cool.
Max Berlinger
Well, so the. Have you been to. I forget what it's called on Atlantic. Outline.
Lauren Sher
Outline, yes.
Max Berlinger
So Chris has said that, you know, Chris worked at Need Supply and Toro.
Lauren Sher
Kayo with one of those gals.
Max Berlinger
Yeah. So she sort of has the. And the outline. Have you been there?
Lauren Sher
Yeah, I love outline. It's great. They are doing a really good job. Yeah, I understand. It's complimentary.
Max Berlinger
It totally works. I've asked him, I said, yeah, is this going to be like a women's thing? And he's like, no. I think, like, men's is my thing and like, the women's is handled beautifully.
Lauren Sher
I think there's something about CHCM I'm obsessed with. And in the same way that I shop at La Garcon a lot, but, like, there's something about ch CM that and I feel like their compliment. The two are sort of elementary. And La Garcon also carries men's. But I think if you're. If. If you're in Manhattan, Luis of Villaroma right across from chcm is actually awesome also. And I highly recommend they have really good, good stuff. Yeah, they have a very good buy. It's. I would have never gone in there, but I went because they had the Phoebe Filo stuff and they have a great buy for women. Right. And they also have like a fancy dress room as well. But what I would say is I'd say La Garcon sort of the complementary one to chcm.
Max Berlinger
Interesting.
Lauren Sher
And if you want to say venn space and then outline. I think because I shop at the other two, they're not as exciting to me in some ways because I'm like, why can't it just be like this? Why can't I go in and it feel like this? But they probably are. And, you know, maybe a guy would feel. Feel the opposite. But you know what? I think all. All of these ladies stores at least are going to sell and maybe some of the men's is the new, new low. Evan.
Max Berlinger
Oh, ye.
Lauren Sher
Here's a quick PSA from the RealReal. Saying something is last season. That's so last season. There's already enough clothing on the planet. But the best of the best is on the RealReal. The RealReal is the place to shop authenticated luxury handbags, clothing, watches, and so much more. And I should know. I've been a customer since 2012. They've got it all from Raf Simons era, Jill Sander and archival Mugler to stuff that looks a whole lot like what we just saw on the Runway. So why buy something new when you can just buy something new to you? And right now you can get 25 off your first purchase by visiting therealreal.com fashion people or any one of their stores. That's therealreal.com fashion people again, therealreal.com fashion people for $25 off your first purchase terms apply. Survivor 48 is here.
Max Berlinger
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Lauren Sher
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Max Berlinger
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Lauren Sher
Me, Jeff probes every Wednesday after the show, wherever you get your podcast. So this morning, after months, I reported in January that I was trying to.
Max Berlinger
Find the original time you wrote about it and I was like, I can't even find. It's like so deep in the middle.
Lauren Sher
It was. I think it was January 7th or January. Yeah, because it was. It was right around. Not to be depressing, but it was right around the fires here. I wrote it the weekend that I was in that I was in Palm Springs escaping Los Angeles. I was like, no, I'm fine, I'm fine. I can work. I have this great scoop. It's okay. It did distract me. Thank God for Disney. So, yeah, I reported it on the. Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez, the founders of Proenza Schooler, were going to be the new creative directors. I believe it was January 13th that I ran it. Yeah, yeah. Around there, right. And of Loewe replacing Jonathan Anderson, who's off to Dior, there have been setbacks in announcing it. Jack and Lazaro were able to announce that they were leaving Proenza, which they are still gonna be on the board, but they were. I don't know if they were allowed, but they decided to say that they were leaving the brand, but it was not possible for whatever reason. Someday maybe I'll figure out what happened behind the scenes. But it was not possible for them to announce that they were going to Aloe Vey. But last week, Jonathan Anderson finally was able to announce. I mean, maybe he didn't care. We were all like, just say it. That he was leaving Loewe. I thought that the last collection that he and the studio worked on together, he did post the collection. So I am sure he had input on. It was really beautiful that they showed in Paris a couple weeks ago, but he was able to say that he was leaving. I had heard that they were gonna wait two weeks to announce Jack and Lazaro, but they only waited a week. And this morning the news Came out that Jack and Lazriel are headed to Loewe and they officially start April 7th. But look, we know that stuff's been going on behind the scenes and also.
Max Berlinger
Menswear, which is exciting for me, is like, you know, women's, men's and all accessories. So it'd be cool for them.
Lauren Sher
So what do you think about it as someone who's been writing about them forever and following their career and also following Loewe and, and the trajectory of that brand under Jonathan.
Max Berlinger
Right. Well, I would say I'm excited to see an American duo go to Europe. It's been like, you know, it's a cool moment to have this very New York, iconic New York brand go and have their designers go there. But I was just like looking through their last few collections this morning and just thinking it's exciting. I will say it does feel a little Jonathan Anderson Loewe Y but everything is kind of like in that vein these days. But you know that. But you know, I'm just excited. I'm. I would say I'm an optimist and I always am like just I try to sort of go into these partnerships open minded and I can't wait to see the first collection and see where they land.
Lauren Sher
I agree. I was, I was thinking I need to be more antagonistic on these podcasts, but I can't look.
Max Berlinger
Why?
Lauren Sher
I don't know, because I feel like I'm. And I push back a lot in my writing. But when on the podcast I'm like, yeah, I agree with you. But I do agree, I think, look, here, here are the things. One is that. Well, no, I'm not gonna. Because I am fully rooting for them for the same reasons you just said. And also a couple of things. One is that Loewe is on an upward trajectory. It's one of two brands maybe at LVMH right now that is feeling good. Laura Piana is like killing it. Loewe still has good traction, right. The bags like the fact that they have been able to create bags and there aren't really it bags anymore, but that bags in the market that look different and that are really hard to knock off is tremendously. It's incredible. So it's on an upward trajectory. Pascal is the CEO, has an amazing reputation. She's a really good merchant. And Jonathan Anderson could have stayed there for another 10 years and it would have kept working. And it was in T magazine. He said something about it being about a $2 billion business. You know, it could get to 5 billion. It could have gotten to 5 billion with him. So the fact that he decided to leave because he is an ambitious person who wants to challenge himself in a million different ways. I get why they don't want to scrap it. Because some of these brands you need to scrap it. Givenchy, you need to scrap it. There are things that just feel so staid or just never really worked and you need to just start from day one and use the infrastructure to build it up fast. This, you don't need to do that. And I think what Jack and Lazaro represent and I have written so many big articles about them, about their business struggles, about their potential as designers, about all of this stuff. And like when they started out they were first of all their work felt really original and felt like nothing else. Julie Gilhart famously bought it. Their collection for Barneys.
Max Berlinger
Anna was a huge champion. Anna helped make them young and like sexy and cool. Like they were like cool dudes.
Lauren Sher
Yeah. But the challenge was that they really were. A lot of pressure was put on them really fast. Like they were, they raised a ton of money like four years into the business. Like it was just insane. They were already being put like considered to the successors for Valentino and they were like 25 years old. It just so crazy. And they, and they represented so much and there was the weight of the American fashion industry sat on these two guys shoulders. And look, they, they were very successful. They had a lot of, they got a lot in return. But I would say creatively it stalled them because you know there, there's. And you all can Google this stuff. They have the PS1, this it bag which I think is, is destined for a comeback now. But right, right it, it sort of took over their business. It allowed them to raise even more money. The money wasn't the right kind of money. And they just, they were really challenged financially and they, and they never got to kind of let their creative minds they. The whole thing is that they are legit. They are legit. They are legit. But they weren't given a chance to really be legit because of the fact that they had all this. They were small business owners and so look like working at a company, a $2 billion in sales business is a.
Max Berlinger
Lot with an infrastructure in place like a big marketing team, a big business minds there.
Lauren Sher
In some ways it's more pressure and it's harder and you have a bigger team to manage and all that stuff. But in other ways it's going to be not easier but just a different kind of challenge. And work their brains in a different way. And so I'm. I'm really happy for them. And also, like, I don't know, they just have. I feel. I'm. I've. I don't know. It's just you.
Max Berlinger
They've been around. You know, you've mentioned this a few times, that we're the same age. And it's like, they mean a lot to me. A person of my age, 42 years old. They, like, sort of were. Had this explosive growth trajectory when I was, like, first getting into fashion, getting my feet wet. And we've seen them grow. And now it's cool to see these guys who are like, these wunderkinds get this, like, mid. You know, I don't want to call them middle age. Sorry to say this, but, you know, they're in this different phase of their lives. And then to have this new sort of platform to be able to express their creativity is a really exciting and hopefully a really great moment for them when they rise to the occasion. I think they can.
Lauren Sher
Yes, yes. And I would also say, oh, and the point that I was trying to make at the beginning was that this shouldn't be like Francesca Valentini used to say this about St. Laurent. I think it's a good one. It's an evolution, not a revolution. So when Anthony Vaccarello took over from Hedy, it wasn't like, we're gonna totally change it because it was working. And it's the same thing with. So I think this is a huge opportunity for them. It's a great challenge. Let's do it. I have maybe mentioned this on the. On the pod before, but it's also interesting that American guys taking over Loewe, Michael Ryder at Celine, pretty much. There are pretty much no creative directors at LVMH now other than Guillaume Henry, who does Patou, and Nicolas Gaskerre, who does. Or Jesquare, depending on who you are, who does Louis Vuitton. There pretty much aren't any other French creative directors, so it's interesting. Like, there's lots of Americans, Brits, Irish, so it's just a. It's funny and it just reflects the world. So I'm really happy for them. And onward, I would say let's let them cook. Yeah. So now we have one more announcement in that fold. And then also prior to jumping on, we were talking about there really aren't as many. There's not like, a lot of stuff dangling right now about creators, directors.
Max Berlinger
Although who would you say is going to go to Proenza now.
Lauren Sher
Oh, yeah, that's a good point.
Max Berlinger
It's an interesting size business. You know what I mean? It's sort of interesting.
Lauren Sher
I am very pro, and I have no idea I said this when it first. When they was first announced. I think they should hire Sandra Lack, who used to did Sismarjan and who used to work at Trees and is hugely, hugely talented. And I think he is strong enough of a designer that he could do his own thing, but, like, could still feel like Proenza. Oh, I love that. Because the thing about Proenza is it sells really well. It's a brand that the price point. It's designer, but it's not that expensive. It's one of those things where if you want to look cool or you just want to look good and you don't want to have to think too hard. A lot of women who like fashion but aren't into fashion by Proenza at this point, it's like a big seller at a lot of boutiques. And so I think Siz Marjan had that. He has that commercial sensibility that you need for that brand. But also people would want to go to the shows. Another person. That's name who. She'll probably kill me for saying this, but I think there are a lot of people who think Maria McManus would be good for it too, which I agree. But I think she'd have to figure out should she keep her own line going if she was gonna do that. Cause it's just. It's. They have a very similar customer. Totally.
Max Berlinger
Because I was thinking, like, Daniela, that Daniella Kalmier girl.
Lauren Sher
Oh, yeah.
Max Berlinger
Sort of like just tailoring really well. And I know, like, tailoring is sort of, you know, dresses and tailoring, I would say, are Proenza in my mind, like, some of their big things.
Lauren Sher
Yeah.
Max Berlinger
But also, what happened? Patrick Arvel was hired to launch menswear. And then, like that. And then I was kind of like, just let Patrick do the.
Lauren Sher
I would love Patrick. Just do it. I'm obsessed.
Max Berlinger
Well, remember when all the girls would wear just. I think, like, Kirsten Dunst would wear his suits and stuff. So I was like, just let him do it.
Lauren Sher
I agree. I also think, and I don't want to. I need to be careful how I say this, but I think menswear designers, not male designers, but menswear designers, when they move into women's, I think it tends to work much better than when women's wear designers move into men's.
Max Berlinger
Totally. I agree.
Lauren Sher
And it's not about whether the person is male or female. It's more about, like, if you start in men's, I think it's easier to go into women's and have an idea. And I. I've always been such a big fan of Patrick's stuff. I think that would be great, too.
Max Berlinger
I saw him on the subway platform recently and he looked very chic and cool.
Lauren Sher
He's so cool. He's such a cool guy. That whole crew is very cool. And I think also they have a really great CEO. She unfortunately had just started when this all went down. So she's kind of. Shira. She's kind of stuck. Not stuck, but, like, it is a situation that maybe she wasn't prepared for. I don't know. Maybe she knew before that they were talking and that this might happen. But. But she is a good CEO and. And should be able to keep it. Look, they have investors. They want to sell it. I think they'll be able to sell it. It's a good brand. And. And we'll see. But it's. It's exciting all around, I think. Like, so now all we're really. Dior announcement. But all is Balenciaga. Who would you want to go to Balenciaga? Which I don't think we're gonna know that for months.
Max Berlinger
Really?
Lauren Sher
No, because also.
Max Berlinger
But also is Fendi's up in the air, right?
Lauren Sher
Oh, yeah, yeah.
Max Berlinger
But what, you don't care about Fendi?
Lauren Sher
Well, I care, but here's the thing. Until they phase the family out entirely. Who. Like I said, I think Sylvia Venturini. Fendi did an amazing job totally with that last show. And maybe they should just keep her for a few years. But it's never going to fully become an exciting thing unless the family is phased out. Like, it's a 100-year-old business. It's time. It's time for, like, a new. A new big idea. Yeah, it's time for a new big idea. And so I think that LVMH knows who they want to be there. Whether or not that person's going to do it, we'll see in the next coming weeks. But, yes.
Max Berlinger
Do you know who LVMH wants to be there?
Lauren Sher
I think that they would be happy with Pierre Paolo, but I think they'd be really happy with Maria Grazia. And so, let's see, both of those are possibilities. The issue is, I don't know what the deal is with Sylvia. Fendi doesn't own any of the business, as far as I know from the Reporting I've done. So, like, they're keeping her for another reason. I don't know, maybe just tradition or whatever. And the business does okay or whatever.
Max Berlinger
Totally.
Lauren Sher
But I think they should. Whoever they give it to, they should just give them the whole thing.
Max Berlinger
Right.
Lauren Sher
And just remake it, because it's a very cool. It's a very cool brand. That could be a lot for you. Who would you like to see there? And who would you like to see at Balenciaga?
Max Berlinger
I mean, Purpa was sort of my Fendi pick, just because they're both, you know, he's Roman. And, you know, I think there. There's, like, that sort of brand equity there. And I also think people loved his Valentino. People went crazy for it. So I don't know. Did it sell well? Do you know?
Lauren Sher
Well, here's the thing. Valentino. Yeah, it sold like couture sold well. The clothing sold. Yes. But the issue was, A, I think it was just time for a change, and B, I think that the accessories, when he and Maria Grazia were together, were really successful because they. She's an accessories designer. He's ready to wear the two of them together. It was, like, really magical. That Valentino, I remember interviewing them. They were so happy. I interviewed her at Dior.
Max Berlinger
Those big brands are hard.
Lauren Sher
Oh, it's so. It's so hard. It's a hard job. I mean, anyone who does them, like, you got to give them a ton of credit. But I think I'd be interested. I. You could also see Effendi just like, a. Totally. It has, like, a wacky thing about it, too. And I kind of wish it was someone who was, like, young and wacky, and they would put like, a little. Yeah, because the bag sell.
Max Berlinger
Were you saying Maria, Greta and Pierre Paulo together again at Fendi, or.
Lauren Sher
No, but that's a great idea.
Max Berlinger
I mean, they could potentially.
Lauren Sher
Yeah, I'm sure that would be, like, really, really financially viable. That's like half of Fendi sales. No, I'm just kidding. But, like, they both are very expensive. And that is the one thing with these different. You do have to weigh that. It. Like, with a lot of these younger designers, you can pay them less and then you pay them more. Like, Alessandro got paid a ton at the end, but at the getting, he was getting paid, like, nothing. And so you get paid a little bit at the beginning, and sales do really well. Whereas when you have someone who is really well known, like, that's expensive, and that is. That's a risk you need to take. So I don't know if they would want it, but that would be really fun because they were magic together.
Max Berlinger
They were magic.
Lauren Sher
Is there any.
Max Berlinger
Interesting hearing you saying that? They seemed very happy together, which seems lovely.
Lauren Sher
Yeah. Yeah. They seemed like they were having a good time at that. Yeah. I don't know.
Max Berlinger
I mean, they were killing it.
Lauren Sher
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Max Berlinger
For Balenciaga. I mean, I feel like you've said everyone, but, you know, first of all, I have a love for Marc Jacobs and I want to.
Lauren Sher
Oh, yeah, I think he does.
Max Berlinger
His shows for his own brand are amazing. Incredible. He does so much with not a ton. I don't know what the, like, brand, you know, I don't know how it sells. I don't know how the brand does financially. But I feel like a bigger stage for Mark is always going to be good for everyone in the fashion world. He's a true fashion historian. He's a true appreciator of fashion. He steals and says it. He, like, you know, he appropriates.
Lauren Sher
He.
Max Berlinger
He's just a smart guy. And I just could see him there. I could see Daniel Roseberry there very easily. I think that, like, I think of Balenciaga, I think of like, sort of sculptural silhouettes, shapes, you know, What I mean. And I'm like, I want someone who can give me a real bold shape, and I know that Daniel can do that.
Lauren Sher
That's so true. I think those are two really good ideas that I hadn't totally. I hadn't totally thought of, but I do. They both have couture. I don't know if Mark has ever actually done couture, but he can do it. Yeah, yeah, yeah. I love both of those ideas. Those are. Those are new. New names, which is exciting.
Max Berlinger
If either of them make it to the end, I hope I get a little kickback.
Lauren Sher
Yeah, yeah, yeah. I'm always like, where's my commission?
Max Berlinger
Right. Exactly.
Lauren Sher
I think those are two exciting. That is such an amazing. That is the. If I was a designer, that's the house I would want.
Max Berlinger
Totally. And it's been so many different things. You know, I was just looking back at Nicolas oh, my God. The other day, just for fun, and it's just. It's crazy what that brand. It's because he was such a genius. It can be so many different things. And, like, I mean, Demna is obviously a completely different take.
Lauren Sher
Yeah.
Max Berlinger
I know. You love them. Then are like a real lover. And, you know, I don't like it as much, but I still think he created a cultural moment that sort of defined where we are right now.
Lauren Sher
Yeah. I think it's funny. I bought a pair of Balenciaga shoes that my friend Delphine had bought, and she posted them and I got them, and they were far too pointy for me, but I bought dressy shoes. They're dressy. They're made of neoprene, but they're like a pointed mule with a little bow on top. And when Delphine posted them, I was like, oh, these are. She's very. I don't want to say conservative, but very traditional. Very preppy, French preppy. And I was like, oh, I'll buy these. And I got them on Satire for, like, way cheaper. Unfortunately, I got them, and I was like, oh, they're too pointy for me. And so I tried to send them back, and Satire said I had worn them because it's a huge. It's so scammy. And so I tried, like, I did everything. I was like. Tried threatening them, and then nothing worked, So I even wrote about it. Nothing happened, so I kept them. And I wore them the other day, and I was like, actually, these are really good.
Max Berlinger
Oh.
Lauren Sher
Even though they were super because they have that Demna thing of. They're just like a classic shoe, but they're Like a little, like, make you a little uncomfortable. Like, the point makes me a little uncomfortable. And I wore them the other day with vintage Gucci.
Max Berlinger
Love.
Lauren Sher
Speaking of Demna. Vintage Gucci pinstripe, like, cropped trousers and a Nate and a black V neck sweater. And it was just like a really. I wore them to lunch in Beverly Hills and they looked great.
Max Berlinger
Love.
Lauren Sher
Yeah.
Max Berlinger
Two things. You live in la. You. These uncomfortable shoes. You drive, and then you toss them on for your lunch in Beverly Hills.
Lauren Sher
No, I just. You don't have to.
Max Berlinger
You don't. Oh, good. See, you don't have to clomp around, though. It's like. That's perfect for you. And secondly, I just love hearing about your crazy shopping. I feel like you're a crazy shopper like me, like, searching for things. You find the thing. You're like, how can I get it? And you're like, oh, I don't like it. I'll return it. It just. You're. You're mad. Cat. Adventures in shopping are very funny to me.
Lauren Sher
Thank you. I try.
Max Berlinger
Do you have the spring shoppies? I have the. I was like, it's been a long time.
Lauren Sher
You know, I got. I shopped in Paris.
Max Berlinger
Oh, that's right. Yeah. Yeah.
Lauren Sher
I can't.
Max Berlinger
You got like a Phoebe Filo, so we're not cheap.
Lauren Sher
I'm done for, like, the next month.
Max Berlinger
Mama's seasonal budget is done.
Lauren Sher
Yes. It really is. Like, I just. I have a child. I have tuition. I have a mortgage. Mortgage. Like, a lot of stuff that's like, I am now. I'm like, what can I sell on the real real. So that when I go to Tokyo thing. Yeah. I'm lucky that our vacation is in Tokyo, where I never want to buy anything weirdly because, like, it just all it. I bought some arts and science stuff. But, like, I'm always like. So it's fine. But I do want. I do need, you know, I. No more for me. Have you bought anything good?
Max Berlinger
Not really. You know, I'm a sample sale shopper like you and then like a real vintage person. And I'm sort of very casual. I'm from California, so I'm like that casual. Like jeans or like, I'm really, you know, I'm very into, like, a Carhartt or a Dickies. Like, to be totally honest.
Lauren Sher
Yeah. It's crazy when I'm here because I have a bunch of events this week and I'm like, I really need to wear my New York clothes because I buy all these. All the clothes I buy are not appropriate for here. I literally every single day wear vintage jeans and a vintage sweatshirt and that's it. Or. Or when I go to the office, AKA Noy House.
Max Berlinger
You work from home.
Lauren Sher
I work from home, and then I work from Noye House a few days a week. And I do have. I have some friends who work there, so I do, like, have a reason to dress up a little bit, but it's really hard for me. Whereas in New York house, I mean, how do you think. Think they wear really weird stuff. It's all weird. Like, people in LA dress weird. Not everyone. It's so. It's so individualized here. Like, you don't know. You go to one place, you go to another. I just did a. I just did a call with someone, did a podcast with someone from la. Who. Who's. Who? I'm. It's escaping me. And they were like, I love Los Angeles now. And I was like, really? And I agreed with them, which is my issue with the. But you have to push back. But, yeah, I mean, people wear like. It's very weird clothes, right?
Max Berlinger
Well, it's a lot of athleisure. There's like pockets of the athleisure, like sort of like the pulled back Kardashian look. And then there's sort of like east side kids.
Lauren Sher
Yes, the east side. There's some good stuff. Like, you go to Barro Santo as my number one pick for if you want to see people with good style. But generally it's a Spanish restaurant that is owned by the people who own Found Oyster in Queen Street. It's good. It's really good. But everyone there always looks awesome. And it's old enough that I don't feel too young. There's this other one called Bar I want to say Siesta or something on Sunset in Silver Lake. And I went with two friends at like 9pm on a Friday night. I was like, wow, I am too old to be here. I need to leave.
Max Berlinger
Like, check, please.
Lauren Sher
Yeah, it was too much. But anyway, there was one more thing, speaking of athleisure that I wanted to cover with you, which was the Nike results were last week, and Sarah Shapiro at Puck covered them for us and kind of talked about, you know, Elliot Hill's been there since October. He's still making some big changes. The chief comms officer exited. The chief strategy officer exited. I assume they'll replace the comms officer, but I don't know if they're gonna replace this strategy officer. It sounded like it might just be like a restructuring Thing and then, you know, it's just, it's tough out there. And I was curious as someone you. I, I presume you do wear Nike also and you follow the brand. You are from the world of the land of athleisure. La la land of athleisure. What do you think?
Max Berlinger
Well, I think what's happening. Only wear vans. They only wear van slip ons which that Valentino.
Lauren Sher
Are you gonna get them?
Max Berlinger
I don't think so. I mean there was one pair that I didn't see in the like all the news items that had like little cat faces on them that I were like. That's actually really fun and cute, but I don't know how much they're going to be. And I feel like I just like a checkerboard. But what I'll say is I like to work out and I go to berries and that berries everyone wears on or Hoka. Period.
Lauren Sher
Yes.
Max Berlinger
And I did see a girl recently wearing and I had to like chase her after class. She was wearing a cool pair of Nikes and they're called the V2K run and they're like sort of new and they look like sort of new balance. A 6e like dad shoey.
Lauren Sher
Yeah.
Max Berlinger
And I did notice that, I think Mary Kate.
Lauren Sher
I was just gonna say Ashley was. Are these the ones that one of the Olsens are wearing? Yes, yes, yes.
Max Berlinger
So I was kind of like.
Lauren Sher
I also got a report that Jen Brill wears them.
Max Berlinger
Oh, interesting.
Lauren Sher
Someone because someone I like posted the mk or was it. It was a. Who wore them? Ashley. I posted the Ashley thing and someone reported back Jen Brill wears those.
Max Berlinger
Ooh.
Lauren Sher
Who's obviously very cool.
Max Berlinger
Yeah. And not to self promote, but I did write something for the time Please self promote the Times. I recently wrote something about how like sneakers are getting sort of slimmer and like lower profile. And I spoke to Brendan Dunn at Complex who has sneakers and he was like, brands like Nike are well positioned right now for this moment because. And Adidas because they have these like sort of deep catalogs of like slimmer profiles and they're bringing them back. They have like sort of a brand engagement with that. That authentic factor.
Lauren Sher
Yeah.
Max Berlinger
And on and Hoka are just big chunky sort of. And they just don't have that profile. And that's not what they're known for.
Lauren Sher
Yeah. Yeah.
Max Berlinger
He was like, I could see this being a good moment for them to capitalize on all that.
Lauren Sher
I agree. Couple of things. One is that I bought the first of the Nike internationalist sneaker I think that's what it's called. They really need to go hard on it because I just think it's like Emily Gould, for some reason, they don't really do it much anymore. I don't even know if they sell it at all. But Emily Gould, for some reason, years ago, we were talking on Twitter when we. I don't know if she's still on Twitter. I'm really not on it anymore about it. And I said. Or she said that it's the platonic ideal. Like a mom sneaker. It is. You could still buy it in a custom. But the one if you Google it, Nike Internationalist, and you look at the bayou and the first one that comes up, which is like a white with gray and cream accents, it is the. It is like a sneaker that it's not gonna offend anyone. It's not gonna make anyone think anything about you. It's not gonna make anyone. They might look at it and think it looks nice, but they're not gonna think you think you're cool. They're not gonna think you think you're. That. It's not like wearing Vasias or whatever. Like, no offense, but, like, you know, it's just. You're the. There's a feeling if. If these. These are the shoe that if you need something for school drop off, these are what you should wear. I think they work for men as well. There is a nut. I got a Stussy Nike collab, which I don't wear a lot because it's made of that, like, waffle netting. And I just. They're. It's like, too fashion for me because I'm not Stussy Nike low. And it.
Max Berlinger
Yeah. When was it from?
Lauren Sher
Oh, it was from their last collaboration. And I. Oh, it's the LD 1000. And I got it in the cream with blue. And I got them. They were Chris Black approved. Like, anytime I'm trying to buy something that's, like, a cool thing, I ask Chris just to make sure it's, like, not inappropriate for me to buy it. And he was like, yes, you should buy them. I would say that, like, I don't wear them a lot because the waffle of it. But they are good. And they're that, like, slim what you're talking about. They're slim. They're not super slim, but they're slim. And these are the kinds of things. It's LD1000. I mean, Nike should be selling because it's sort of like the Cortez, but a little bit slim. Slimmer. Okay. It looks like they are trying to sell. Oh, oh yeah. See they have it in like all black. This is a sneaker that they need to be like really, really going hard on. And I think you're right. The on. And one final thing on on which I'm still very bullish on. Hoka less bullish on as like a long term thing on. I'm very bullish on. I bought a pair of on sneakers to try them and not only just for running. And I just went back to Brooks. It's not for me. Like it just wasn't the way it looks. And also I didn't like the way they felt when I was running. And I love you guys. Don't me, don't try to send me a pair. It's fine. But it just wasn't for me. So it's interesting. I do think like I just went back to Brooks or running. I don't care what they look like. And they now the interesting thing, all those like dorky brands are now selling. They sell. Brooks does all white now because. Because they used to have like all these ugly colors. You don't want them. You just want all black or all white. But yeah, so people are running.
Max Berlinger
I think, you know, it's like spring here in New York. But it's like all these run clubs. I mean look, Nike's a huge business. It sounds like it wasn't a great quarter, but I think Sarah was reporting that it's going to take time and people understand that this is not going to be an overnight thing. I think everything in fashion these days is such a quarter by quarter thing. And it's like, guys, we got to let things take their time. It's not going to be overnight. You know, I think about all these crazy designers who are there for two years or whatever and out. It's a big business. Like Nike is just going to take time to turn around and you have to like trust the process. But I was reading, I think a Bloomberg thing where all the analysts were like, we're fine. Like we know that they it was not a great quarter, but it is what it is. Like you gotta like clear house.
Lauren Sher
Well look, you can't read believe everything analysts say. Let me just say that. But in this case I agree this is a huge, this is a $50 billion business. It's like market cap of over, I think like $130 billion or something. This is. And look, we all still like Nike. If we didn't like it, that would be a problem. But we all still like it and maybe young kids have issues with it, but no one like this internationalist sneaker for the kids run. It's inoffensive. It's also nice. It's like people feel good. There are good vibes towards Nike. I think that this, this campaign they did about you can't win or whatever doesn't make any sense and is too cerebral and bad idea. But generally I'm very pro and excited to see what Elliot Hill does.
Max Berlinger
Yeah, totally.
Lauren Sher
Max, it was so great to catch up with you.
Max Berlinger
It was so good to catch up with you. When are you back in town? Can we catch up in person?
Lauren Sher
Yes. Yeah, I'm back for like two days at the beginning of April, but I'll be there longer for in early May. So we'll, we'll hang, I'm sure around Met Gala plenty.
Max Berlinger
Oh, that's right. I was like oh yeah, yeah.
Lauren Sher
Thank you for being here. I appreciate it.
Max Berlinger
Thank you so much for asking.
Lauren Sher
Fashion People is a presentation of Odyssey in partnership with Puck. This show was produced and edited by Molly Nugent. Special thanks to our executive producers, Puck Co Founder John Kelly, Executive Editor Ben Landy and Director of Editorial Operations Gabby Grossman. In additional thanks to the team at Odyssey, JD Crowley, Jenna Weiss Berman and Bob Tabador. This episode is brought to you by Progressive Insurance. What if comparing car insurance rates was as easy as putting on your favorite podcast with Progressive? It is. Just visit the Progressive website to quote with all the coverages you want. You'll see Progressive's direct rate. Then their tool will provide options from other companies so you can compare. All you need to do is choose the rate and coverage you like. Quote today@progressive.com to join the over 28 million drivers who trust Progressive, Progressive Casualty Insurance Company and affiliates. Comparison rates not available in all states or situations. Prices vary based on how you buy.
Fashion People: New York, It’s a Wonderful (Shopping) Town
Hosted by Lauren Sherman, Puck Correspondent
Episode Release Date: March 25, 2025
In this episode of Fashion People, Lauren Sherman welcomes fashion journalist Max Berlinger to discuss the latest happenings in the fashion industry. The conversation delves into creative director transitions at Loewe, the evolving landscape of department stores, and trends in athleisure wear.
Lauren and Max kick off the discussion with Max’s experience at the Printemps store opening on Wall Street.
Store Atmosphere and Design:
Max describes the store as "fab" with "stunning architecture" featuring "soaring ceilings" and "mosaic tiles from the 30s" ([07:58]).
Customer Experience:
Lauren adds, “It has a very 1980s bonfire of the Vanities vibe,” highlighting the store's unique and extravagant interior ([09:09]).
Historical Context:
They touch upon Printemps’ history, including its past ownership by the P family and its acquisition by the Qatari royal family in 2013 ([07:24]).
A significant portion of the episode focuses on Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez stepping into the roles of creative directors at Loewe, succeeding Jonathan Anderson.
Excitement for New Leadership:
Max expresses optimism, stating, “I can't wait to see the first collection and see where they land” ([23:03]).
Lauren’s Insights:
Lauren emphasizes the importance of this transition, noting, “Loewe is on an upward trajectory... Pascal is the CEO, has an amazing reputation” ([28:05]).
Challenges and Opportunities:
They discuss the pressures faced by McCullough and Hernandez, with Lauren mentioning, “They were very successful. They had a lot in return. But creatively it stalled them” ([27:12]).
Lauren provides updates on Saks Global, which now encompasses Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, and Bergdorf Goodman as of January 2025.
Max and Lauren brainstorm potential candidates for leading creative directions at major fashion houses.
Balenciaga Recommendations:
Max suggests Marc Jacobs and Daniel Roseberry, highlighting Jacobs’ ability to “steal and say it” and Roseberry’s talent for “bold shapes” ([35:28]).
Fendi's Future Leadership:
Lauren advocates for phasing out the Venturini family to inject fresh ideas, stating, “It's time for a new big idea” ([34:07]).
The conversation shifts to notable fashion stores and districts in Los Angeles, including ChCM, La Garcon, Venn Space, and Outline.
Store Highlights:
ChCM and La Garcon:
Lauren praises these stores for their complementary styles and curated selections ([17:21]).
Venn Space:
Both hosts admire Venn Space for its shoe selection and boutique atmosphere, with Max sharing his appreciation: “The shoe selection's amazing” ([16:34]).
Personal Shopping Preferences:
Lauren and Max share their favorite spots and styles in LA, emphasizing the diversity and individuality of Los Angeles fashion ([43:02]).
Max and Lauren delve into Nike's latest quarterly results and the broader athleisure market.
Nike’s Organizational Changes:
Max summarizes recent leadership exits at Nike, indicating a possible restructuring ([46:34]).
Sneaker Trends:
Lauren discusses the resurgence of slimmer sneaker profiles, mentioning the Nike Internationalist as a “platonic ideal” for versatile wearers ([49:09]).
Market Positioning:
Max highlights Nike’s strategic advantage with brands like Adidas, which have extensive catalogs of slimmer sneaker profiles, positioning Nike well for future growth ([49:17]).
The hosts share their personal shopping experiences, highlighting challenges and triumphs in finding the perfect pieces.
Lauren’s Shopping Stories:
Lauren recounts her attempts to return a pair of Balenciaga shoes from Satire, ultimately growing fond of them despite initial doubts ([41:00]).
Max’s Shopping Habits:
Max describes himself as a “sample sale shopper” and a “real vintage person,” favoring casual and functional brands like Carhartt and Dickies ([43:27]).
Lauren and Max wrap up the episode by reflecting on the dynamic nature of the fashion industry, the importance of creative leadership, and the ever-evolving trends in consumer preferences. They express excitement for upcoming events and future episodes, promising more insider insights into the multi-trillion-dollar fashion business.
Notable Quotes:
Conclusion
This episode of Fashion People offers a comprehensive look into the current state of the fashion industry, highlighting significant shifts in leadership, the reopening of iconic stores, and the latest trends in athleisure wear. Through insightful dialogue between Lauren Sherman and Max Berlinger, listeners gain an insider's perspective on the challenges and opportunities shaping the future of fashion.