Podcast Summary: Fashion People – Episode: Scully Says Release Date: May 16, 2025

Hosts:

• Lauren Sherman: Puck correspondent and writer of Puck's Fashion and Beauty Memo Line Sheet.
• James Scully: Renowned casting director and retailer, known for his outspoken views in the fashion industry.

1. Introduction to James Scully and His Career Transition

Timestamp: [04:23] – [07:44]

Lauren Sherman welcomes James Scully to the show, highlighting his extensive experience in the fashion industry. James shares his journey from New York City to the Hudson Valley, detailing his move during the COVID-19 pandemic after his partner was laid off from Ralph Lauren. This transition marked a significant shift in his career, steering him towards retail and eventually opening his own store.

Notable Quote:

James Scully: "We live here. And that was it. And then we just kind of adapted as it went on."
[06:30]

2. Reflecting on New York Fashion in the 1980s

Timestamp: [07:44] – [25:54]

James reminisces about the vibrant New York fashion scene of the 1980s, characterized by iconic designers like Calvin Klein, Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, and emerging talents such as Jean Paul Gaultier and Matsuda. He discusses the dynamic nature of Fashion Week during this era, emphasizing the diversity and creativity that defined the industry's zenith.

Key Points:

• The transformation of Bergdorf Goodman from a "stodgy store" to a modern fashion hub.
• The bustling schedules of Fashion Week, with multiple shows and the rise of supermodels.
• The collaborative spirit among designers, casting directors, and models.

Notable Quote:

James Scully: "It was really buzzy and there was a lot of attention on young New Yorkers at the time."
[22:00]

3. Evolution of Designer Stores and Retail Dynamics

Timestamp: [25:54] – [37:01]

Lauren probes into the evolution of designer boutiques and department stores during James's tenure. James elaborates on the prominence of stores like Charivari, Barney’s, Bendals, and Diane B., highlighting their role in introducing avant-garde designers and fostering a unique shopping experience. He recounts his own experiences applying for jobs at these stores and eventually working in window display and merchandising.

Key Points:

• The significance of Charivari in bringing Japanese designers to America.
• The eclectic and distinct atmospheres of various department stores.
• James's rise within the retail sector, moving from sales to merchandising and eventually influencing store layouts.

Notable Quote:

James Scully: "Every store was a completely different world. And it was just fun to see all of these things at one time."
[35:00]

4. Transition from Retail to Casting Director

Timestamp: [37:01] – [55:32]

James discusses his transition from retail to becoming a casting director after leaving Charivari. Working with Kevin Crier and Associates, he describes his involvement in producing and casting for high-profile fashion shows, including collaborations with Tom Ford and significant contributions to the visibility of brands like Gucci.

Key Points:

• The hands-on nature of producing fashion shows in the 1980s and 1990s.
• The impact of Tom Ford on redefining casting strategies to emphasize aesthetic over mere presence.
• The collaborative environment and how it fostered a close-knit community among models, designers, and casting directors.

Notable Quotes:

James Scully: "Models sold clothes and the performance sold the clothes."
[46:30]
James Scully: "It was just like, this is Linda in the world of Valentino. This is Limbit in the world of Tom Ford."
[49:00]

5. Addressing Abusive Practices in the Fashion Industry

Timestamp: [55:32] – [70:48]

James sheds light on the darker side of the fashion industry, particularly the exploitation and abuse of young models. He recounts incidents where models were subjected to harsh treatment and the pressures of unrealistic beauty standards, leading to mental health issues. James narrates his efforts to combat these practices by advocating for better protections and establishing charters to ensure the welfare of young talent.

Key Points:

• The shift from models as individuals with distinct personalities to mere objects.
• The rise of stylists' power leading to the dehumanization of models.
• James's role in creating the LVMH and Vogue charters to protect minors in the industry.
• The impact of social media in exposing abusive practices.

Notable Quotes:

James Scully: "You're not moving here to be an artist, you're not moving here to be a banker, you're moving here because for four years you're going to pretend you're Sarah Jessica."
[10:37]
James Scully: "You have to never ask a child to do an adult's job."
[62:50]

6. Founding Jamestown: Reinventing Retail in Hudson Valley

Timestamp: [70:48] – [88:39]

Transitioning from casting to retail, James talks about opening Jamestown, his boutique in Hudson Valley. He explains the inspiration behind the store, drawing from his extensive network and love for unique, transformable clothing. James emphasizes the importance of creating a destination shopping experience that emphasizes personal connections and purposeful shopping, moving away from the impersonal nature of large department stores.

Key Points:

• The conceptualization of Jamestown as a destination store inspired by beloved boutiques.
• Collaboration with designers and creatives to curate a unique product selection.
• The role of word-of-mouth and personal networks in building the store's reputation.
• Achieving financial success through a focused and authentic retail approach.

Notable Quotes:

James Scully: "It's the transformative power of clothes."
[82:50]
James Scully: "Destination shopping has been a thing for a while."
[83:44]
James Scully: "What makes it work is keeping it small and personal."
[83:44]

7. Reflections on the Changing Retail Landscape

Timestamp: [88:10] – End

In the concluding segment, Lauren and James discuss the challenges and future of retail in the digital age. James reflects on the success of Jamestown by maintaining a curated selection of unique items and fostering an inviting in-store experience. He contrasts this with the broader industry's shift towards online retail and mass-market strategies, advocating for the continued relevance of specialized, in-person shopping destinations.

Key Points:

• The importance of unique product offerings and personal customer experiences.
• The decline of traditional department stores in favor of niche boutiques.
• The effectiveness of social media and word-of-mouth in promoting Jamestown.
• James's optimism about the future of small, purposeful retail spaces.

Notable Quote:

James Scully: "Nothing makes me happier than when someone comes in the store, whether they buy or not, and just say like, I had a great time here."
[85:30]

Conclusions and Takeaways

• Industry Transformation: The fashion industry has undergone significant changes from the vibrant, collaborative 1980s scene to a more fragmented and, at times, exploitative environment.

• Advocacy and Change: Individuals like James Scully play a crucial role in advocating for ethical practices and protecting vulnerable talent within the industry.

• Retail Reinvention: In an era dominated by online shopping, small, purpose-driven boutiques like Jamestown demonstrate the enduring value of personalized, in-store experiences.

• Sustainability and Authenticity: Emphasizing sustainability and unique, transformative clothing resonates with modern consumers seeking meaningful fashion choices.

Notable Quotes Extracted

1. James Scully: "We live here. And that was it. And then we just kind of adapted as it went on."
   [06:30]

2. James Scully: "It was really buzzy and there was a lot of attention on young New Yorkers at the time."
   [22:00]

3. James Scully: "Every store was a completely different world. And it was just fun to see all of these things at one time."
   [35:00]

4. James Scully: "Models sold clothes and the performance sold the clothes."
   [46:30]

5. James Scully: "You have to never ask a child to do an adult's job."
   [62:50]

6. James Scully: "Nothing makes me happier than when someone comes in the store, whether they buy or not, and just say like, I had a great time here."
   [85:30]

Final Thoughts

This episode of Fashion People provides an in-depth look into James Scully's influential career in the fashion industry, his commitment to ethical practices, and his innovative approach to retail. Listeners gain valuable insights into the evolution of fashion shows, the complexities of the modeling industry, and the future of boutique retail in a digital age.

Listen to the full episode on your preferred podcast platform every Tuesday and Friday to stay updated on the behind-the-scenes happenings of the fashion world.