Podcast Summary: Fashion People — "Simone Rocha’s Ascendance and the Alaïa Effect"
Host: Lauren Sherman
Guest: Leah Chernikov (Harper’s Bazaar Executive Editor)
Date: September 23, 2025
Episode Overview
In this episode, Lauren Sherman is joined by Leah Chernikov to discuss London Fashion Week highlights, what’s ahead in Milan, current fashion trends (notably Simone Rocha’s rise and the unmistakable “Alaïa effect”), the business of aging gracefully in the public eye, and the much-debated balloon pants trend. The conversation weaves personal anecdotes, industry analysis, and lively commentary, making this a must-listen for anyone wanting an insider’s take on the fashion world’s undercurrents.
Key Discussion Points & Insights
1. London Fashion Week: Standouts and Impressions
[07:20 - 10:34]
- Simone Rocha’s Consistency and Appeal
- Leah is impressed by the beauty and drama of Simone Rocha's collection:
"I always love Simone Rocha...her collection looked beautiful, as always." [07:20, Leah]
- Lauren highlights Rocha’s consistent professionalism and questions why she hasn't been scooped up by a bigger house:
“There’s like a real level of talent and professionalism there…there’s consistency…it always hits." [09:02, Lauren]
- Leah is impressed by the beauty and drama of Simone Rocha's collection:
- Richard Quinn’s Theatricality
- His show was described as “really dramatic and fun," featuring bold choices and Naomi Campbell opening the show:
"I loved all the black velvet. I thought the casting…was just really spot on…with him it feels very real." [10:10, Lauren]
- His show was described as “really dramatic and fun," featuring bold choices and Naomi Campbell opening the show:
- Party Scene
- The exclusive Chiltern Firehouse party reopens briefly with an A-list crowd (Kate Moss & Madonna), reflecting a shift to “fewer, better parties."
"That is a party I'd actually want to go to." [11:14, Lauren]
- The exclusive Chiltern Firehouse party reopens briefly with an A-list crowd (Kate Moss & Madonna), reflecting a shift to “fewer, better parties."
2. Milan Fashion Week: Anticipation and Industry Buzz
[12:42 - 19:48]
- Debuts and Industry Movement
- Milan features a “baker’s dozen” of new designers; anticipation for Bottega Veneta, Jill Sander, and more.
- Simone Bellati and Bally
- Bally’s limited distribution created “buzz” among fashion insiders:
"The one sort of uniting new thing that obviously people are always buying...but everybody went to Bally multiple times..." [14:33, Lauren]
- Bally’s limited distribution created “buzz” among fashion insiders:
- Jil Sander, Louise Trotter, and Campaigns with Depth
- Praises abound for Louise Trotter’s thoughtful direction at Bottega Veneta, especially her campaign featuring cultural figures like Zadie Smith:
“She’s just a smart person...a grown up woman who knows what she’s doing and takes responsibility for herself.” [17:11, Lauren]
- Leah applauds inclusion and intentional casting:
"The cast that she featured…says a lot about how she's thinking about the brand…really literary, really artistic." [19:02, Leah]
- Praises abound for Louise Trotter’s thoughtful direction at Bottega Veneta, especially her campaign featuring cultural figures like Zadie Smith:
3. The Business of Aging Gracefully: Celebrity, Transformations & Cultural Pressure
[21:34 - 31:49]
- Katherine LaNasa, Grant Show, and Hollywood Aging
- Their appearance stirs social media discussion on “aging gracefully” as they look like their younger selves but with visible, “good” wrinkles.
"What I think is interesting about this couple...their faces look like they did 20 years ago..." [22:18, Lauren] "There are good wrinkles…and wrinkles people don’t want…crow’s feet can feel very desirable..." [26:18, Leah]
- Considers what cosmetic procedures celebs admit to, the continuous cultural scrutiny—especially of women over 50 in the industry.
- Their appearance stirs social media discussion on “aging gracefully” as they look like their younger selves but with visible, “good” wrinkles.
- Societal Pressures, Transparency, and Unattainable Realness
- Lauren muses:
"She looks amazing because she looks real, but that realness is also generally unachievable." [30:17, Lauren]
- The endless public parsing of celebrity appearances is tied to social media’s immediate feedback loops.
"It's just too much conversation...there's no normal [in LA]." [31:36, Lauren]
- Lauren muses:
4. The Balloon Pant Trend & The “Alaïa Effect” on Fashion
[32:50 - 41:50]
- Balloon Pants, Alaia, and the Trickledown of Trends
- The balloon pant, associated with Alaïa’s Peter Mulier, is hotly debated. Lauren notes how Mulier’s “engineered knits” and silhouettes have shaped current fashion.
“It's wild...everyone has a dance dress. Everyone is using engineered knits in his way.” [36:05, Lauren]
- Leah admits:
"I've been looking for the version that I want of them for months." [34:19, Leah]
- The show discusses the pervasiveness of Alaïa’s influence — especially Mulier’s ability to evolve the brand while staying respectful:
“He basically had to go to the most revered fashion house…evolve it and make it commercial...” [38:21, Lauren] "It all shows…a kind of confidence...taking a year to find archival pieces...before figuring out how to move it forward." [39:32, Leah]
- The balloon pant, associated with Alaïa’s Peter Mulier, is hotly debated. Lauren notes how Mulier’s “engineered knits” and silhouettes have shaped current fashion.
- Emerging Alternatives
- Other great balloon/ballerina pant options: Afflalo's jeans, Eckhaus Latta trousers.
"The jeans look so perfect...you sold me on the Eckhaus Lotta trouser." [40:42; 41:01, Leah] "Here's to the harem pant or the balloon pant or whatever you want to call it." [41:15, Lauren]
- Other great balloon/ballerina pant options: Afflalo's jeans, Eckhaus Latta trousers.
Notable Quotes & Memorable Moments
- On Consistent Talent:
- "There’s like a real level of talent and professionalism there…consistency…it always hits." [09:02, Lauren]
- On the Joy and Privilege of Aging:
- "Getting older a bitch. Everything conspires against us. And what a privilege and a joy as well, truly." [05:42, Leah]
- On Trends with ‘Staying Power’:
- "Alaïa business is bigger than it's ever been...these designers who have original ideas are informing everything else in a really natural way." [38:21, Lauren]
- On Balloon Pants Skepticism:
- "I've been looking for the version that I want of them for months." [34:19, Leah]
- "Here's to the harem pant or the balloon pant or whatever you want to call it." [41:15, Lauren]
- On Realness in Fashion and Beauty:
- “She looks amazing because she looks real, but that realness is also generally unachievable.” [30:17, Lauren]
- On the LA Effect:
- "There's no normal." [31:34, Lauren]
Timestamps for Key Segments
- Intro, Pre-Fashion Week Chatter: 01:53 – 06:48
- London Fashion Week Rundown: 06:48 – 11:42
- Looking Ahead to Milan: 11:42 – 19:48
- Aging Gracefully Discourse: 21:34 – 31:54
- Balloon Pant Trend & Alaïa’s Impact: 32:50 – 41:50
Episode Tone
Warm, insider-y, conversational — full of friendly ribbing and sharp observation, blending industry analysis with personal experience. The hosts aren’t afraid to share opinions, celebrate originality, and offer nuanced takes on fashion’s most-discussed topics.
For more insights, industry gossip, or to weigh in on the balloon pant debate, tune in or check Lauren’s ongoing coverage in Line Sheet on Puck.