Fashion People Podcast Summary: "The Future Is a Chanel Couch"
Release Date: December 17, 2024
Host: Lauren Sherman
Guest: Jesse Lee, Founder of Basic Space and Chairman of Design Miami
Introduction
In the December 17, 2024 episode of Fashion People, host Lauren Sherman welcomes Jesse Lee, the visionary founder of Basic Space and Chairman of Design Miami. The conversation delves into the evolving landscape of the fashion and design industries, exploring themes such as the intersection of design and luxury, the impact of major fashion campaigns, and notable shifts within powerhouse brands like Chanel and Versace.
Design Miami vs. Art Basel: The Changing Vibe of Major Fairs
Lauren Sherman opens the discussion by referencing Jesse’s recent attendance at Art Basel Miami, highlighting comments from industry insiders about the event's shift towards being "super pro fashion promo" similar to Formula 1's takeover by fashion brands. Jesse Lee reflects on this transformation:
"[...] over the past several years, Basel's become ubiquitous in many ways, for better or worse. So Jason's point is pretty accurate." [05:00]
He contrasts this with Design Miami, emphasizing its unique position in the design world:
"Design Miami is a bit more scarce, it's a bit more exclusive." [07:08]
Jesse elaborates on how Design Miami maintains an environment that fosters genuine engagement with design objects and furniture, setting it apart from the increasingly mainstream Art Basel.
Basic Space and the Philosophy of Design as the New Luxury
Lauren steers the conversation towards Jesse’s entrepreneurial journey, particularly how Basic Space complements Design Miami. Jesse shares the genesis of Basic Space:
"Basic Space was born from a simple concept, which [...] we wanted a more curated platform or a place to buy and sell. [...] it's all about what we felt like was the next big thing." [10:56]
He posits that design has become the new luxury, serving as an umbrella for various high-consumption categories such as home furniture, vintage cars, and hi-fi audio. This perspective aligns with the emerging trends where design-driven consumption is increasingly influencing younger, affluent demographics.
Integration of Design in Major Fashion Campaigns
The dialogue shifts to recent notable fashion campaigns that seamlessly incorporate design elements. Lauren mentions Balenciaga’s unconventional Instagram strategy:
"Balenciaga had wiped their Instagram account and then started posting photos of furniture in the middle of the street of Paris." [13:01]
Jesse analyzes this approach, pointing out the blend of vintage furniture with new fashion pieces that creates a unique aesthetic juxtaposition. Similarly, he highlights Alaia’s campaign featuring iconic design gallery settings:
"Alaia launched a whole campaign with all their new stuff sitting on or in the spaces of a lot of the top design galleries." [14:13]
These campaigns exemplify how high fashion brands are leveraging design to enhance their brand narratives and create immersive experiences.
Chanel’s Strategic Appointment: Embracing Design
A significant portion of the episode is dedicated to Chanel's strategic hiring of Matthew Blasey as the Artistic Director of Fashion Creations. Lauren expresses excitement over this move:
"His title is interesting. [...] it says that they want him to focus and take his time to create things." [20:55]
Jesse concurs, appreciating the alignment of Blasey’s design-centric approach with Chanel’s vision:
"[...] what he wants to show and [...] his background in design and art." [22:25]
They discuss the potential for Chanel to expand into home design, reflecting on the broader trend of fashion houses integrating more deeply with design disciplines to cater to evolving luxury consumer preferences.
Versace’s Design Potential and the Next Generation of Luxury Consumers
Lauren inquires about Versace's potential in the design space, considering their existing ventures into home design and the prevalence of Versace-branded residences:
"There's a lot of Versace branded homes, apartments in luxury condos. I could see very easily some sort of Versace hotel type thing." [32:22]
Jesse emphasizes Versace’s archival appeal, particularly from the 80s and 90s, suggesting that leveraging their rich heritage could resonate well with the next generation of luxury consumers:
"Maybe even home and design, if it were tied to some sort of archival pieces and vintage, I could see Versace being a really hot brand amongst the next gen." [32:22]
He observes that younger consumers often begin their luxury consumption journey through vintage purchases, making Versace’s historical collections a gateway for brand loyalty.
The Downfall of the Road Fashion Brand: Navigating Trademark Conflicts
The episode addresses the recent closure of the Road fashion brand amidst trademark disputes with Hailey Bieber’s brand, Ro. Lauren critiques the brand's lack of a strong point of view and Jesse offers insights on conflict resolution:
"If you were in a situation where a really famous person launched a brand in a different category, but it was the same name as yours, how would you manage it?" [38:00]
Jesse suggests collaboration over conflict, advocating for business solutions that could preserve both brands without extensive legal battles:
"I would have found a way to collaborate, probably." [40:43]
Lauren and Jesse agree that the brand’s closure might have been avoidable with strategic rebranding or partnership efforts, underscoring the importance of adaptable brand management in the face of external challenges.
Miscellaneous Discussions: Fragrance Trends and Retail Experience
Towards the end, the conversation lightly touches on personal anecdotes about fragrances and their polarizing nature, emphasizing the subjective impact of scent in personal branding.
Additionally, Jesse discusses the future of luxury retail:
"The smartest brands are going to focus on their retail experience. [...] People are paying for the experience, whether it's online, offline." [15:14]
He underscores the importance of innovative retail strategies in an increasingly digital marketplace, especially post-COVID, where owning and curating brand spaces can enhance consumer engagement.
Conclusion
The episode wraps up with Lauren Sherman expressing her appreciation for Jesse Lee’s insights and hinting at future discussions on design as the new luxury. The conversation effectively bridges the realms of high fashion and design, offering listeners a comprehensive look into the strategic maneuvers shaping the future of these intertwined industries.
Notable Quotes with Timestamps:
-
"[...] over the past several years, Basel's become ubiquitous in many ways, for better or worse. So Jason's point is pretty accurate."
[05:00] - Jesse Lee -
"Design Miami is a bit more scarce, it's a bit more exclusive."
[07:08] - Jesse Lee -
"Basic Space was born from a simple concept, which [...] we wanted a more curated platform or a place to buy and sell."
[10:56] - Jesse Lee -
"Balenciaga had wiped their Instagram account and then started posting photos of furniture in the middle of the street of Paris."
[13:01] - Lauren Sherman -
"Chanel is a huge brand, [...] it's not as much about the person but the idea of the brand."
[20:55] - Jesse Lee -
"Maybe even home and design, if it were tied to some sort of archival pieces and vintage, I could see Versace being a really hot brand amongst the next gen."
[32:22] - Jesse Lee -
"I would have found a way to collaborate, probably."
[40:43] - Jesse Lee
Fashion People is a presentation of Odyssey in partnership with Puck. This episode was produced and edited by Molly Nugent sp., with special thanks to executive producers John Kelly, Ben Landy, Gabby Grossman, and the team at Odyssey.