Summary of Fat Mascara Episode: Candlemaker Louis Hotchkiss on The Secrets of His Craft

In this enlightening episode of Fat Mascara, hosts Jennifer Sullivan and Jessica Matlin delve deep into the art and science of candle making with special guest Louis Hotchkiss, founder of Kobo Candles. Recorded in 2021 and updated post the sale of Kobo Candles to MERS Apothecary in 2022, this conversation uncovers the intricacies of crafting high-quality candles, the challenges faced in the industry, and offers listeners expert tips to enhance their candle-burning experience.

Lewis Hotchkiss' Journey into Candle Making

Louis Hotchkiss shares his unexpected path into the world of candle making. Initially involved in fragrance products, Louis's venture into candles began somewhat accidentally when he expanded his product line to include fragrances. Collaborating with a friend named Jose, who was manufacturing candles for Estee Lauder, Louis's interest in candles solidified after Jose had to pause production. Louis recounts:

"I could get into this candle making thing." ([02:42], Louis Hotchkiss)

This hands-on experience, combined with a passion for fragrances, led to the establishment of Kobo Candles. In 2022, Louis sold Kobo to MERS Apothecary, a Chicago-based family business, allowing Kobo to continue producing both their own brand of candles and custom orders under new management.

Understanding Candle Quality: Hot Throw vs. Cold Throw

A significant portion of the discussion centers around the concept of throw, which refers to the fragrance a candle emits. Louis explains the two types:

• Cold Throw: The scent of the candle when it's not lit.
• Hot Throw: The fragrance released when the candle is burning.

"There are two kinds of throw, cold throw and hot throw." ([08:21], Louis Hotchkiss)

Louis emphasizes that a high-quality candle should maintain consistency between its cold and hot throws. He shares an example where a major client’s candle lacked this consistency, leading to customer dissatisfaction:

"The hot throw and the cold throw were completely off." ([08:59], Louis Hotchkiss)

This highlights the importance of expert formulation to ensure fragrances perform well both lit and unlit.

The Importance of Wax Types: Why Soy?

The type of wax used in candle making is pivotal to both performance and environmental impact. Louis champions soy wax for several reasons:

"Soy is the best wax for a number of reasons... it burns cleaner... it doesn't produce soot." ([14:55], Louis Hotchkiss)

Key advantages of soy wax include:

• Renewable and Plant-Based: Unlike paraffin, soy wax is derived from soybeans, making it a sustainable choice.
• Cleaner Burn: Soy candles produce less soot and do not stain walls or ceilings.
• Healthier Environment: Soy wax disperses fewer particulates into the air compared to petroleum-based paraffin.

Louis contrasts soy with paraffin wax, noting the environmental and health benefits of choosing soy:

"Paraffin, which is the most commonly used wax in candles around the world, is really a byproduct of oil production... soy wax doesn't produce soot." ([14:55], Louis Hotchkiss)

Wicks: Choosing the Right One for Your Candle

Selecting the appropriate wick is crucial for optimal candle performance. Louis discusses the factors influencing wick choice:

"The best wick is the right wick for the vessel and the wax combination." ([16:59], Louis Hotchkiss)

Considerations include:

• Vessel Size and Shape: Different vessels require different wick sizes and types to ensure even burning.
• Wax Composition: The blend of soy wax and fragrance oils influences which wick will perform best.
• Preventing Tunneling: Using the correct wick prevents uneven burning, ensuring the candle lasts its full lifespan.

Dealing with Tunneling and Overburning

Louis provides practical advice on preventing and correcting tunneling, where a candle burns unevenly, leaving a tunnel of unused wax around the edges:

"If you start to get a tunnel, you have to do a couple of long burns... to melt the wax that's on top." ([18:38], Louis Hotchkiss)

He suggests:

• Initial Burn: Allow the candle to burn long enough initially to create a full melt pool.
• Extinguishing Tips: Use an extinguishing lid or the paperclip method to safely put out the candle without producing smoke or disrupting the wick.

Candles and Air Quality: Toxicity and Safety

Addressing concerns about toxicity, Louis reassures listeners about the safety of high-quality candles:

"There's nothing toxic if you use high-quality, regulated fragrances." ([26:21], Louis Hotchkiss)

Key points include:

• Quality Ingredients: Kobo Candles use fragrances that meet stringent Japanese, European, and California standards.
• Avoiding Harmful Oils: Certain essential oils, like cinnamon, can be harmful in candles and are replaced with safer alternatives.
• Pet Safety: Some fragrances can affect pets negatively; Louis advises stopping use if any adverse reactions occur.

Pricing of Candles: Why So Much Difference?

Louis delves into the factors that cause significant price variations in candles:

"Candles with big marketing budgets have to charge more." ([30:12], Louis Hotchkiss)

Reasons for price differences include:

• Marketing Costs: High-end brands invest heavily in advertising, inflating prices beyond production costs.
• Fragrance Quality: Premium fragrances, such as Vetiver and Saffron, are more expensive and contribute to higher candle prices.
• Packaging: Luxurious packaging, including ceramic containers or hand-blown glass, increases overall cost.

Favorites: Recommended Candle Brands and Scents

Louis shares his favorite candle brands and scents, highlighting Sir Trudon for their luxurious fragrances and craftsmanship:

"Sir Trudon candles... beautiful fragrances." ([34:04], Louis Hotchkiss)

From his own line, he recommends:

• Vetiver and Shaved Vanilla: A sophisticated blend with sharp and rounded notes.
• Pamplemousse (Grapefruit): A citrusy scent ideal for freshening up spaces.

Lightning Round

The episode concludes with a fun lightning round where Louis shares personal insights:

1. First Grooming Product Loved:

   "A shaving cream that turned into foam." ([36:54], Louis Hotchkiss)

2. Quality Admired Most in Others:

   "Humility." ([37:25], Louis Hotchkiss)

3. One Rule He Wishes Everyone Would Follow:

   "Be nice." ([37:30], Louis Hotchkiss)

4. Most Played Song on His Playlist:

   "Water Got No Enemy by Fela Kuti." ([37:56], Louis Hotchkiss)

5. Narrator for His Life Movie:

   "Milton Nascimento." ([38:20], Louis Hotchkiss)

Conclusion: Key Takeaways

Louis Hotchkiss offers a comprehensive look into the candle-making industry, emphasizing the importance of quality materials, expert formulation, and sustainable practices. Listeners gain valuable insights into enhancing their candle experiences, understanding product quality, and navigating the market’s pricing landscape.

Notable Quotes

• "Soy is the best wax for a number of reasons... it burns cleaner... it doesn't produce soot." ([14:55], Louis Hotchkiss)
• "There are two kinds of throw, cold throw and hot throw." ([08:21], Louis Hotchkiss)
• "Be nice. You know, meet a person you don't know, be nice, love them." ([37:30], Louis Hotchkiss)

This episode serves as an essential guide for both candle enthusiasts and aspiring candle makers, blending professional expertise with practical advice to illuminate the nuanced craft of candle making.