Fat Mascara Episode Summary: How to Shop for Skincare with Cosmetic Chemist Victoria Fu

Episode Information:

• Title: How to Shop for Skincare with Cosmetic Chemist Victoria Fu
• Release Date: January 1, 2025
• Hosts: Jennifer Sullivan & Jessica Matlin
• Guest: Victoria Fu, Cosmetic Chemist and Co-founder of Chemist Confessions

Introduction and Guest Background

The episode kicks off with host Jen Sullivan introducing the guest, Victoria Fu, a renowned cosmetic chemist. Victoria is one half of the podcast and brand Chemist Confessions and co-author of the book Skincare Decoded: The Practical Guide to Beautiful Skin. Jen warmly welcomes Victoria, highlighting her expertise in helping listeners make informed skincare choices.

Jen Sullivan (03:51):

"Victoria Fu is the best person I know to talk to about what to buy when you're shopping for skincare."

Victoria expresses her excitement about joining the podcast and briefly touches on the playful collaboration between Fat Mascara and Chemist Confessions, emphasizing their overlapping audiences.

Journey into Cosmetic Chemistry

Victoria delves into her career path, explaining how she and her partner, Gloria, met at L'Oréal where they worked as skincare chemists. Their roles involved developing versatile formulas that could be adapted across various brands, a concept Victoria describes as working on the "upstream" level of skincare development.

Victoria Fu (05:05):

"We are skincare chemists. We nature our formulas to be adaptable and effective across different brands."

Feeling constrained by industry practices that prioritized marketing over scientific integrity, Victoria and Gloria decided to leave the corporate world. They launched Chemist Confessions to demystify skincare ingredients and empower consumers with scientific knowledge, starting with accessible content like hand-sketched Instagram posts about skincare ingredients.

Founding Chemist Confessions and Launching Their Skincare Line

Transitioning from education to product development, Victoria and Gloria created their own skincare line focused on transparency and effective formulation. They prioritized breaking down traditional skincare categories (dry, normal, oily) and instead organized products by moisturizing components such as humectants, oils, and occlusives. This approach aimed to simplify skincare routines without forcing consumers to overhaul their existing habits.

Victoria Fu (13:10):

"We forgot this part initially, but now consumer education is our bread and butter."

Despite early challenges in educating consumers about terminology like humectants and occlusives, the duo leveraged the growing trend of consumers seeking transparency and efficacy in skincare ingredients. This shift allowed them to refine their product offerings based on enhanced consumer understanding and demand.

Decoding Ingredient Labels

A significant portion of the discussion centers around Decoding Ingredient Labels, a key initiative by Chemist Confessions to help consumers understand skincare formulations. Jen and Victoria explore the complexities of ingredient lists, distinguishing between actives and functionals.

Victoria Fu (17:10):

"We consider Actives to be any ingredient that provides a long-term skin benefit, without labeling others as 'inactive.'"

Victoria emphasizes the importance of understanding the purpose behind each ingredient, advocating for a nuanced approach rather than blanket fear of unfamiliar compounds. She challenges misconceptions, such as the fear surrounding propylene glycol by clarifying its refined and safe usage in cosmetics.

Victoria Fu (19:08):

"Formaldehyde is found in apples too. Parabens are in mouthwash. Let's dial back and understand the specific compounds."

This segment underscores the necessity for science-based education to combat misinformation fueled by fear-mongering and superficial comparisons.

The Role of AI in Skincare Innovation

Victoria introduces the topic of artificial intelligence (AI) in skincare development, discussing how AI is revolutionizing ingredient discovery. She explains that AI models can analyze vast libraries of molecular structures ("balls and sticks") to identify potential candidates for new skincare ingredients, significantly accelerating the R&D process.

Victoria Fu (28:07):

"AI is the next wave of innovation in the beauty industry, enabling us to discover proprietary molecules like Fibroquin."

She shares insights from their collaboration with biotech company Revella, where AI was used to develop Fibroquin, a molecule that enhances skin elasticity more effectively than traditional retinol. This partnership exemplifies how AI can bridge the gap between scientific discovery and practical skincare solutions.

Jen Sullivan (32:44):

"Fibroquin is two times more effective in improving skin elasticity than retinol."

Clinical Studies and Product Efficacy

The conversation shifts to the importance of clinical studies in validating skincare products. Victoria stresses that many ingredient claims rely solely on in vitro studies, which do not always translate to real-world efficacy. By conducting clinical trials, Chemist Confessions ensures their products deliver tangible benefits.

Victoria Fu (37:37):

"Clinical studies provide a sense of how a product performs on real subjects, which is more valuable than in vitro data alone."

She critiques the industry practice of padding proprietary molecules with other actives to achieve marketing claims, advocating for formulations where each ingredient's role and efficacy are clear and scientifically substantiated.

Product Recommendations and Personal Favorites

Towards the end of the episode, Jen invites Victoria to share her personal beauty preferences. While Victoria maintains a minimalistic makeup routine, she highlights Heroine Makeup's eyeliner as a standout product due to its long-lasting, cry-proof formula suitable for oily skin. Additionally, she praises MAC's foundations for their effective shade-matching services, despite not being an avid mascara user herself.

Victoria Fu (46:28):

"I love Heroine Makeup's eyeliner because it stays put no matter how oily my skin gets."

Rapid-Fire Segment: Speed Round

In a fun concluding segment, Jen conducts a rapid-fire round with Victoria, covering various light-hearted questions:

1. Pointless Ingredient:
   Victoria Fu: "Aerogel. It’s a filler powder that doesn't serve a meaningful purpose in skincare."

2. Skincare Product She'd Invent:
   Victoria Fu: "Differing Adaptoline topical for cystic acne sufferers, inspired by my personal struggles."

3. Worst Grade in School:
   Victoria Fu: "C-minus in organic chemistry."

4. Alternate Career:
   Victoria Fu: "Food chemistry, focusing on flavors and related science."

5. Unwinding Method:
   Victoria Fu: "Hugging my rescue dog, Maisie."

Conclusion and Final Thoughts

Jen wraps up the episode by expressing gratitude to Victoria for her insightful contributions, acknowledging the depth of knowledge she brought to the discussion. She encourages listeners to leave reviews and engage with the podcast for future episodes.

Jen Sullivan (53:23):

"Thank you for coming on Fat Mascara. We hope you enjoyed the show."

Victoria reciprocates the appreciation, reiterating her enthusiasm for the podcast's mission to educate and empower beauty consumers.

Key Takeaways:

• Educational Empowerment: Understanding skincare ingredients empowers consumers to make informed choices and demystifies product formulations.
• AI in Skincare: Artificial intelligence is becoming pivotal in discovering and developing innovative skincare ingredients, accelerating the R&D process.
• Clinical Validation: Rigorous clinical studies are essential for substantiating skincare product claims and ensuring efficacy.
• Transparency and Trust: Brands that prioritize transparency and scientific integrity build stronger trust with their audiences.

Notable Quotes:

• Jen Sullivan (03:51):

  "Victoria Fu is the best person I know to talk to about what to buy when you're shopping for skincare."

• Victoria Fu (17:10):

  "We consider Actives to be any ingredient that provides a long-term skin benefit, without labeling others as 'inactive.'"

• Victoria Fu (28:07):

  "AI is the next wave of innovation in the beauty industry, enabling us to discover proprietary molecules like Fibroquin."

• Victoria Fu (37:37):

  "Clinical studies provide a sense of how a product performs on real subjects, which is more valuable than in vitro data alone."

This episode serves as a comprehensive guide for listeners seeking to enhance their skincare routines through scientific understanding and informed product selection, all while highlighting the innovative intersections between technology and beauty.