Podcast Summary: Fat Mascara – Episode on Mental Health & Beauty with Dr. Afia Mbilishaka

Introduction

In this compelling episode of Fat Mascara, hosts Jennifer Sullivan and Jessica Matlin delve deep into the intricate relationship between mental health and the beauty industry. Featuring Dr. Afia Mbilishaka—a therapist, consultant, research scientist, hair historian, and hairstylist—the conversation explores how hair care professionals can play a pivotal role in supporting mental well-being.

Dr. Afia Mbilishaka’s Background

Dr. Afia Mbilishaka brings a unique blend of expertise to the table. Growing up in a supportive, professional family in Long Island, New York, she was inspired by her mother's nurturing hair care routines. As the youngest of four siblings, Dr. Afia fondly recalls her mother's empowering approach to styling her hair, which fostered a sense of agency and self-esteem from a young age (07:43).

Her academic journey took a decisive turn during her freshman year at the University of Pennsylvania, where an engaging sociology and psychology professor ignited her passion for the field. This inspiration led her to Howard University, where she earned a Ph.D. in Clinical Psychology, focusing on Black mental health disparities (12:06).

The Connection Between Hair and Mental Health

Dr. Afia emphasizes that hair serves as a complex language system, conveying personal, cultural, and emotional narratives. She explains, “Our hair can express parts of our religious, spiritual beliefs... it can communicate our relationship status... that hair is a conduit to the spiritual realm” (15:27). This profound connection makes hair care sessions uniquely positioned to act as informal mental health check-ins.

Overview of Psychotherapy

To bridge the gap between hair care and mental health, Dr. Afia founded Psychotherapy, a company dedicated to training hair care professionals in basic mental health support. The program includes a 12-hour certification process covering the history of hair, recognizing mental health symptoms in communities of color, and developing micro-counseling skills such as active listening and safely referring clients to professional therapists (15:58).

Cultural Significance of Hair

Throughout history, hair has held significant cultural and spiritual importance across various societies. Dr. Afia shares insights into numerous hair rituals:

• Yoruba of Nigeria: Hairstyles signify marital status, career, and personal identity. Specific braiding techniques are employed to convey these aspects (23:35).
• Native Americans: Long hair connects individuals to nature and spirituality. European colonization disrupted these traditions, leading to cultural disconnection (25:16).
• Maasai Warriors: Hair growth and rituals mark a warrior’s initiation and their transition out of warfare (27:06).

These rituals underscore the deep psychological and communal ties people have with their hair.

Current Issues: Crown Act and Hairstyle Discrimination

Discrimination based on hairstyles remains a pervasive issue. Dr. Afia discusses the CROWN Act (Create a Respectful and Open World for Natural Hair), which aims to prohibit discrimination based on hair texture and protective hairstyles. Although passed in 18-19 states, it faces resistance at the federal level, particularly in sectors like the military and educational institutions (28:14).

Dr. Afia has actively testified in various state legislatures to advocate for the CROWN Act, highlighting the psychological impact of hairstyle discrimination and its roots in historical prejudices (29:26).

Dr. Afia’s Advocacy and Collaborations

Beyond advocacy, Dr. Afia collaborates with brands like Maui Moisture, which provided a transformative $100,000 donation to support her mission of integrating mental health into the beauty industry. This funding enables the certification of more hairstylists, amplifying her impact by reaching thousands of clients through these trained professionals (45:00).

She envisions future projects, including wellness retreats for beauty professionals, to address the emotional labor and burnout experienced in the industry, especially highlighted during the COVID-19 pandemic (48:53).

Personal Insights and Self-Care Practices

Dr. Afia shares her personal self-care routines, emphasizing the importance of rituals in maintaining mental health:

• Gratitude Journaling: She practices a five-minute gratitude journal each night, focusing on positive aspects of her day to foster a positive mindset (63:32).
• Essential Oils: Utilizing scents like lavender and ylang-ylang to create a calming environment during therapy sessions (59:34).
• Physical Activity: Enjoying walks in nature, particularly during spring, to connect with her surroundings and relax (61:06).

Conclusion

This episode of Fat Mascara sheds light on the vital intersection of beauty and mental health, highlighting how hair care professionals can serve as frontline supporters in mental wellness. Dr. Afia Mbilishaka’s innovative approach through Psychotherapy not only bridges professional disciplines but also fosters a more inclusive and supportive beauty industry.

Notable Quotes

1. Empowering Hair Care:

   • “Even being like 6 years old, my mom's like, how many braids do you want? And for me, that was like the most exciting question to answer that I got to choose the number of braids.” (07:43)

2. Hair as a Language System:

   • “Our hair can express parts of our religious, spiritual beliefs... hair is a conduit to the spiritual realm.” (15:27)

3. Cultural Rituals:

   • “In Native American communities, hair is so sacred because it's the highest point on our entire bodies and therefore the most connected to the divine.” (21:52)

4. CROWN Act Advocacy:

   • “It's against the law to discriminate against people based on their hairstyle, particularly in schools, for employment, and even housing opportunities.” (28:14)

5. Impact of Maui Moisture Donation:

   • “I never had people back me financially in this way to do the work that I'm doing...certify 100 more hairstylists in these techniques can have such a broad impact.” (45:57)

6. Self-Care through Gratitude:

   • “Having avocado toast is sometimes one of them.” (64:35)

Resources Mentioned

• Psychotherapy Website: psychotherapy.org
• CROWN Act Information: Legislative updates available in the podcast and related show notes.

Final Thoughts

Fat Mascara continues to push the envelope by addressing significant yet often overlooked intersections within the beauty industry. By featuring experts like Dr. Afia Mbilishaka, the podcast not only educates its listeners but also inspires actionable change towards a more empathetic and mentally supportive beauty culture.