Fat Mascara Episode Summary: "The Dark Prince of Perfumery with Douglas Little"

Release Date: December 13, 2024

Introduction to Douglas Little

In this riveting episode of Fat Mascara, hosts Jennifer Sullivan and Jessica Matlin delve deep into the enigmatic world of fragrance with none other than Douglas Little, the visionary behind Heretic Perfumes. With a career spanning over two decades, Douglas has established himself as a trailblazer in the perfumery industry, blending dark romanticism with luxury to create scents that stand out in a saturated market.

The Multi-Hyphenate Creative

Douglas Little is the epitome of a multi-hyphenate in today's creative landscape. The hosts explore the challenges and triumphs that come with juggling multiple roles. Douglas reflects on his journey:

Douglas Little (04:34): "I describe myself as a creative director, a CEO, and a perfumer. I run a fragrance company, but I'm also the perfumer and handle all creative development. It's a loaded question."

He emphasizes the importance of understanding one’s audience and strategically presenting different facets of his expertise depending on the context.

The Rise and Fall of DLN Co

Douglas shares the tumultuous history of his first venture, DLN Co, a fragrance line launched in 2003:

Douglas Little (13:13): "I cashed in my 401k to fund DLN Co, believing in the idea wholeheartedly. The brand took off rapidly, with placements in Neiman's and Saks, but I lacked the business acumen to sustain its growth. Eventually, I faced debilitating financial and legal challenges that forced me to walk away from the company."

This experience taught him invaluable lessons about business management and the importance of authenticity in creative endeavors.

Founding Heretic: Embracing Authenticity

Determined to create something true to his artistic vision, Douglas founded Heretic after his departure from DLN Co. He stresses the significance of authenticity:

Douglas Little (18:22): "With Heretic, I never wanted to present something other than who I am. It's about radical transparency and honoring the beauty in darkness."

Heretic embodies his refined, elegant goth sensibility, offering fragrances that are art-driven and passion-fueled, distinguishing themselves in the luxury fragrance market.

Celebrity Collaborations: Dita Von Teese and Gwyneth Paltrow

Douglas recounts his memorable collaborations with high-profile figures like Dita Von Teese and Gwyneth Paltrow, highlighting the synergy between their creative visions:

Douglas Little (31:14): "Meeting Dita in the elevator was surreal. Her affinity for dark glamour perfectly aligned with the Heretic brand, leading to a long-lasting friendship and collaboration."

His partnership with Gwyneth Paltrow for Goop’s fragrance line led to innovative and boundary-pushing scents, including the infamous "This Smells Like My Vagina" candle, which sparked widespread conversation and challenged societal taboos around body odors and sexuality.

'This Smells Like My Vagina': A Viral Campaign

One of the standout moments in the episode is Douglas’s humorous and bold creation of a fragrance that directly names a taboo subject:

Douglas Little (37:00): "When Gwyneth's assistant smelled the seaweed absolute, she remarked, 'This smells like a vagina.' It became an inside joke that evolved into a bestselling candle, symbolizing the dismantling of shame around natural body scents."

The campaign not only showcased his penchant for edgy and provocative marketing but also initiated meaningful dialogues about body positivity and sexual liberation.

Fragrance for 'Nosferatu': Capturing the Gothic Essence

Douglas's latest project involves creating a scent for Robert Eggers' "Nosferatu", a film lauded for its meticulous gothic aesthetics. He describes the meticulous process of aligning the fragrance with the movie's atmosphere:

Douglas Little (46:03): "I wanted to capture the haunting, gothic essence of 'Nosferatu.' Incorporating notes like petrichor, lilac, and vegan ambergris, the fragrance embodies the film's eerie and romantic tones."

This collaboration underscores Douglas's ability to translate cinematic visuals into olfactory experiences, further cementing his reputation as a master perfumer.

Speed Round: Personal Insights

In the concluding segment, Douglas engages in a "speed round," offering personal glimpses into his preferences:

• Favorite Villains: David from Prometheus and Alien series, Patrick Bateman from American Psycho, and Witch Hazel from Bugs Bunny.

• Favorite Horror Movies: Rosemary's Baby, The Shining, and Poltergeist.

• Favorite Flower: Daturis dramonium (Angel's Trumpet), chosen for its "epitome of dangerous beauty."

• Favorite Beverage: Ghia, a provocative non-alcoholic drink, aligning with his dedication to health and wellness.

Conclusion

Douglas Little’s journey from DLN Co to Heretic is a testament to resilience, authenticity, and the relentless pursuit of artistic vision. His ability to blend dark romanticism with luxury, coupled with his fearless approach to challenging norms, makes him a formidable figure in the perfumery world. Hosts Jen Sullivan and Jess Matlin adeptly capture these narratives, providing listeners with an inspiring and insightful exploration of beauty culture’s darker, yet profoundly beautiful, side.

Douglas concludes with heartfelt gratitude for the platform:

Douglas Little (62:15): "This was a blast. Such a pleasure. Thank you for having me."

Listeners are left with a deeper appreciation for the artistry behind fragrance creation and the importance of staying true to one’s creative essence.

Notable Quotes:

• Douglas Little (04:34): "It's about radical transparency and honoring the beauty in darkness."

• Douglas Little (37:00): "This smells like a vagina. It became an inside joke that evolved into a bestselling candle."

• Douglas Little (46:03): "I wanted to capture the haunting, gothic essence of 'Nosferatu.'"