Fat Mascara Podcast Summary
Episode: The Future of Cosmetic Formulation with Chemist AJ Addae
Release Date: December 6, 2024
Hosts: Jennifer Sullivan & Jessica Matlin
I. Introduction
In this episode of Fat Mascara, host Jen Sullivan welcomes cosmetic chemist AJ Addae to discuss the evolving landscape of cosmetic formulation, emphasizing inclusivity and scientific innovation. AJ brings a wealth of experience from her roles in clean beauty, journalism, and brand partnerships, culminating in her founding of SULA Labs.
II. AJ Adde's Background and Career
Jen Sullivan begins by highlighting AJ's impressive academic and professional background:
- Education: Bachelor’s in Molecular Biology, Master’s in Chemistry, and pursuing a PhD in Chemistry and Biochemistry from UCLA [04:30].
- Professional Experience: Served as a clean beauty expert for Credo, worked in journalism and brand partnerships, and was a scientist for Revision Skincare.
- Entrepreneurship: Founded SULA Labs in 2021, focusing on R&D for skincare products tailored to melanin-rich consumers [08:57].
Notable Quote:
AJ Adde: “Beauty science has been my thing ever since I saw how beauty products were neglecting darker skin tones in the R&D process” [08:57].
III. SULA Labs: Mission and Operations
SULA Labs is an R&D laboratory dedicated to bridging inclusivity gaps in the beauty industry by developing and testing skincare ingredients specifically for melanin-rich consumers and black-owned brands.
Key Points:
- Clientele: Primarily beauty brands seeking to develop products that cater to darker skin tones [09:05].
- Services: Formulation development, ingredient innovation, and clinical testing focused on melanin-rich skin [11:22].
- Approach: Utilizes consumer preference data and trends to inform product development, ensuring effectiveness without compromising on aesthetic qualities like avoiding ashy undertones [13:15].
Notable Quote:
AJ Adde: “We take time to parse through what it would mean for the darker skinned consumer to be centered in product development so that it shows in the actual product itself” [12:58].
IV. Inclusivity in Cosmetic Formulation
AJ discusses the critical need for inclusivity in beauty product development, emphasizing that diversity extends beyond skin tone to include factors like age, gender, and allergenicity.
Key Insights:
- Data-Driven Development: SULA Labs conducts extensive consumer preference testing to understand the unique needs of melanin-rich consumers.
- Efficacy Tailoring: For example, differentiating the concept of "brightening" between dark and light skin tones, focusing on hyperpigmentation for the former [13:30].
- Market Impact: Products developed with this inclusive approach resonate more deeply with target audiences, fostering brand loyalty.
Notable Quote:
AJ Adde: “Consumers definitely know when a product was made with them in mind” [16:23].
V. Sunscreen Regulations and Challenges
The conversation shifts to sunscreen formulations, highlighting the limited FDA-approved mineral sunscreens in the U.S.—zinc oxide and titanium dioxide—and the challenges this poses for consumers of color.
Key Points:
- Regulatory Barriers: The FDA’s stringent regulations limit the types of sun filters available, inadvertently prioritizing formulations suitable for lighter skin tones [20:12].
- Scientific Bias: Historical biases in scientific research have led to a narrow focus on certain minerals, neglecting potentially effective alternatives that could benefit darker skin tones [21:23].
- Future Directions: AJ emphasizes the need for expanded research and regulatory flexibility to accommodate diverse skin needs [22:08].
Notable Quote:
AJ Adde: “We have a really long way to go with creating better sunscreen options that are just aesthetically pleasing” [22:08].
VI. Exosomes in Skincare: Potential and Regulation
AJ delves into the emerging trend of using exosomes in skincare products, explaining their biological role and the regulatory complexities involved.
Key Points:
- Definition: Exosomes are nano-sized vesicles that facilitate intercellular communication by transporting proteins and genetic information [25:20].
- Regulatory Challenges: Claims about regenerative and reparative functions classify exosome-based products as drugs rather than cosmetics, complicating their marketing and usage [25:20].
- Industry Implications: The blurring lines between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals necessitate careful navigation of FDA regulations to maintain product legitimacy [26:50].
Notable Quote:
AJ Adde: “Exosomes from a scientific perspective are really, really cool, but where we draw the line for cosmetic versus drug claims is ultimately up to the FDA” [25:20].
VII. Clean Beauty and "No-No" Ingredient Lists
The hosts explore the trend of "clean beauty," focusing on brands’ decisions to avoid certain ingredients and the implications for formulation.
Key Points:
- Brand Standards: Many brands develop their own "no-no" lists based on retailer requirements or ethical considerations, such as avoiding parabens or sulfates [36:25].
- Chemical Understanding: AJ advocates for informed decisions rather than blanket avoidance, emphasizing the importance of understanding ingredient safety and functionality [37:10].
- Regulatory Compliance: SULA Labs adheres to FDA guidelines, ensuring that formulations meet safety standards without unnecessary exclusions [40:14].
Notable Quote:
AJ Adde: “If you're to just say none of this ingredient without understanding why, that's not okay” [39:53].
VIII. Positive Developments and Favorite Products
Shifting to a more positive note, AJ shares her favorite skincare products that exemplify effective and straightforward formulations.
Highlighted Products:
- Peter Thomas Roth Sulfur Mask: Praised for its simplicity and efficacy in treating acne without unnecessary additives [46:40].
- BEA Body Scrub: Loved for its exfoliating properties and user-friendly experience, especially appealing to the black community [48:34].
Notable Quote:
AJ Adde: “They said, we want a sulfur mask. We want it to be effective. We're gonna use whatever materials it takes to make that happen” [47:04].
IX. Personal Insights and Preferences
In a light-hearted segment, AJ shares personal preferences, providing a glimpse into her daily routines and ethical considerations in product use.
Key Points:
- Makeup Bag Essentials: Prefers minimal makeup—concealer, mascara, and blush tailored to her skin tone [51:10].
- Favorite Ingredients: Advocates for the use of simple, effective ingredients like Satirith 25 in brow pomades [54:23].
- Ethical Stances: Avoids treatments with problematic histories, such as laser procedures and tretinoin, due to ethical concerns [56:38].
Notable Quote:
AJ Adde: “The vibe. Yes, no, no, no. Like, some days I'm like, some tretinoin really hit today. But, you know, I just... Maybe I'll get there one day” [58:29].
X. Conclusion
Jen Sullivan wraps up the episode by thanking AJ for her insightful contributions, emphasizing the importance of scientific rigor and inclusivity in the beauty industry. Listeners are encouraged to leave reviews and engage with future episodes for more unfiltered discussions on beauty culture.
Key Takeaways:
- Inclusivity in Formulation: Essential for meeting the diverse needs of consumers, particularly those with melanin-rich skin.
- Scientific Innovation: Critical for developing effective and aesthetically pleasing beauty products.
- Regulatory Navigation: Understanding and adhering to FDA guidelines is paramount in bridging cosmetics and pharmaceuticals.
- Informed Ingredient Choices: Brands should base their "no-no" lists on comprehensive research rather than trends or misconceptions.
Notable Quotes with Timestamps:
- AJ Adde: “Beauty science has been my thing ever since I saw how beauty products were neglecting darker skin tones in the R&D process” [08:57].
- AJ Adde: “We take time to parse through what it would mean for the darker skinned consumer to be centered in product development so that it shows in the actual product itself” [12:58].
- AJ Adde: “Exosomes from a scientific perspective are really, really cool, but where we draw the line for cosmetic versus drug claims is ultimately up to the FDA” [25:20].
- AJ Adde: “If you're to just say none of this ingredient without understanding why, that's not okay” [39:53].
- AJ Adde: “The vibe. Yes, no, no, no. Like, some days I'm like, some tretinoin really hit today. But, you know, I just... Maybe I'll get there one day” [58:29].
This comprehensive discussion with AJ Addae provides valuable insights into the future of cosmetic formulation, highlighting the intersection of science, inclusivity, and ethical considerations in shaping the beauty industry's trajectory.