Fresh Air: Virgil Abloh's Unconventional Path To Luxury Fashion

Host: Tonya Moseley
Guest: Robin Givhan, Pulitzer Prize-winning Senior Critic at Large for the Washington Post
Release Date: June 26, 2025

Introduction

In this captivating episode of Fresh Air, host Tonya Moseley engages in a profound conversation with Robin Givhan, a distinguished fashion critic and the author of Make It Crashing: The Gates of Culture with Virgil Abloh. Givhan, renowned for her insightful analysis that intertwines fashion with politics and cultural identity, delves into the life, work, and enduring legacy of the late designer Virgil Abloh.

Reevaluating Virgil Abloh's Greatness

Givhan begins by discussing her evolving perception of Abloh's impact on the fashion industry. Initially skeptical about Abloh's standing among traditional fashion greats, her perspective transformed as she delved deeper into his influence. She reflects:

“... the meaning that they found in his work made me start thinking about sort of a whole other category in which to think about great fashion... it's not so much about the actual look of the clothes, but the meaning of them and what a brand name can convey to someone that you don't even know.”
(03:16) – Robin Givhan

This shift highlights Abloh's ability to create a community and a shared sense of identity through his brand, transcending mere aesthetics.

Collaboration with Kanye West

A significant portion of the conversation focuses on Abloh's collaboration with Kanye West, a relationship that played a pivotal role in catapulting Abloh into the global spotlight. Givhan explains how their partnership was mutually beneficial:

“... Kanye had a breadth of ambition and confidence that was energizing to anyone who was within that sort of cyclone of activity... he would bring into his circle anyone who he thought could help him solve a creative problem or could further a creative ambition.”
(06:38) – Robin Givhan

She emphasizes that their shared passion for creativity and design fostered a dynamic environment where Abloh could thrive and expand his horizons beyond architecture into fashion.

Evolution of Design Aesthetic

Givhan meticulously outlines Abloh's design journey, tracing his evolution from grassroots projects to establishing Off-White. She describes his distinctive aesthetic elements:

“His markings, which were these sort of hazard lines that you might see on a roadway under construction, quotation marks around different words, because he loved an ironic gesture.”
(12:06) – Robin Givhan

Abloh's use of irony and unconventional design elements became synonymous with his brand, making it a staple in both streetwear and luxury fashion. She also touches upon his innovative use of red zip ties, a signature detail that symbolized anti-theft devices in retail.

Harnessing Social Media for Community Building

Abloh's prowess in leveraging social media is highlighted as a cornerstone of his success. Givhan notes:

“He really tried to be transparent with the folks on social media. If someone DMed him, he would respond. He hired people that he just met over Instagram... people felt like they were having a real conversation with him.”
(15:19) – Robin Givhan

This approach fostered authentic connections and a dedicated community, setting Abloh apart from traditional designers who often maintained a distance from their audience.

Impact of Streetwear and Sneaker Culture

The discussion delves into Abloh's roots in sneaker culture, a realm known for its passionate and discerning enthusiasts. Givhan explains:

“When Virgil collaborated with Nike in 2017 to rework 10 of their most well-known sneakers, that was really a moment when his talent and just his identity got blasted around the world with the enormous megaphone that is Nike.”
(16:39) – Robin Givhan

Abloh's ability to blend streetwear aesthetics with high fashion resonated deeply within sneakerhead communities, bridging the gap between grassroots culture and luxury markets.

The '10' Project and Redefining Design Ownership

Abloh's collaborative project with Nike, known as the "The 10", is examined as a groundbreaking initiative that blurred the lines between creator and consumer:

“... Virgil, I think, was best at when he could take something that already existed and alter it and essentially, you know, make it his own.”
(16:54) – Robin Givhan

He introduced the concept of the 3% philosophy, where minimal alterations could lead to entirely new creations, challenging traditional notions of design ownership and originality.

Navigating Racial Reckoning and Social Responsibility

The conversation addresses Abloh's response during the 2020 racial protests, particularly his controversial reaction to the looting of a streetwear store:

“He posted on social media, essentially a rebuke of those who had wrecked the store... he was not prepared for that.”
(31:10) – Robin Givhan

Givhan explains that Abloh's attempt to balance condemnation of the destruction with support for the movement led to significant backlash, marking a critical moment in his public persona.

Legacy and Commitment to Future Generations

Abloh's commitment to fostering new talent is underscored through his establishment of a scholarship fund:

“... it was focused on students who were coming from places that didn't ordinarily get access to sort of fashion information and fashion mentoring.”
(35:05) – Robin Givhan

Givhan highlights this effort as a testament to Abloh's dedication to inclusivity and his desire to pave the way for underrepresented voices in the fashion industry.

Personal Reflections and Final Thoughts

Givhan shares personal anecdotes about meeting Abloh and witnessing his humility and dedication firsthand:

“And he was there in his little booth with his Off-White collection... he was very even keel, calm, just sort of quietly talking about his work.”
(36:36) – Robin Givhan

She reflects on how Abloh's understated demeanor contrasted with his towering presence in the fashion world, embodying his philosophy of authenticity and personal integrity.

Notable Quotes

• Robin Givhan: “The only failure is not to try.”
  (20:46)

• Robin Givhan: “... Chanel still comes down to this sort of degree of status. With Off White, it was more than status. It was community.”
  (06:09)

• Robin Givhan: “He called it his 3% philosophy, which was if you take something that exists and you alter it by 3.3%, you've essentially created something wholly new.”
  (18:43)

Conclusion

Tonya Moseley wraps up the interview by acknowledging the profound insights Givhan provided into Virgil Abloh's multifaceted career and his lasting impact on both fashion and culture. The episode serves as a comprehensive exploration of Abloh's innovative approach, his ability to bridge diverse communities, and his enduring legacy as a visionary in the world of luxury fashion.

This summary captures the essence of the Fresh Air episode, outlining the key discussions and insights shared by Robin Givhan about Virgil Abloh's unique journey and influence in the fashion industry. Through thoughtful analysis and engaging dialogue, listeners gain a deeper understanding of Abloh's role in reshaping luxury fashion and his lasting cultural significance.