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Isamea French
Lounge access is subject to change. See capital1.com for details. Glam Los Angeles.
Kirby
Hi, Kirby. Hi, Sarah. Welcome to Los Angeles. Okay, I am here by myself. Sadly, today, Kirby is not with us, but we have an incredible guest that we have been waiting to have on for so long. From across the pond, as they say, we have British makeup artist, creative director, beauty innovator, and genius. Isamea French on Gloss Angeles. Welcome, welcome.
Isamea French
Thank you.
Kirby
So happy to have you here.
Isamea French
Thank you. Well, I thought I was coming to sunny Los Angeles, but actually it's a little bit. It's a little bit misty outside.
Kirby
It's June gloom. It's June gloom, which is a thing. But also it's been really cold for, like, the whole year, so I'm not really sure what's happening. I hope you get a little bit of sun by the end of your trip.
Isamea French
Sunny energy.
Kirby
Yes. So you just came back from the Business of fashion event.
Isamea French
Yes.
Kirby
How was that?
Isamea French
It was awesome. I have. It's my second year. They've been running for three years. I was on a jury, so we were like, we were looking at these, you know, new brands, and it's really fun for me because not only do I get to meet founders, which I love, because, you know, working in makeup, I get to meet hairstylists, but I don't get to meet other brand founders, particularly in makeup.
Kirby
Like your peers.
Isamea French
Yeah. And, you know, and CEOs and CMOs, and actually, the event's really interesting because it's really about the business again, you know, I have a business, but I'm very creative, so to sit there and go, oh, beauty in India looks like that. Or like, oh, this is what's happening in the Middle East. It's fascinating. And Stanley Ranch is gorgeous, so it's a lovely experience.
Kirby
Was it sunny up there at least? Yes. Okay, good, good, good. Okay. Are there any brands that you discovered when you were up there that you. That got you excited?
Isamea French
Oh, my God. How long have you got?
Kirby
Yeah, well, okay, like, one or two that you got excited about?
Isamea French
So a couple of the winners. One of the one of them is called Commune, and they're a kind of skin care brand. They do incredible hand moisturizer and. And wash and stuff. And they're based in Somerset in the uk. So Somerset is like the belly of England. Okay. It's really mystical and magical and it's very kind of witchy. And their branding is beautiful. And it's kind of like they actually won, so the social impact award, because the whole bottle is aluminium, including the pump, so you can just chuck it in the recycling. Oh, I love that fragrance is beautiful and I love it. So I was like, yes, to the kind of witchy.
Kirby
Yeah. Wait, what do you mean witchy?
Isamea French
Have you seen the Wicker Man?
Kirby
No.
Isamea French
It's a film from, I think the 60s or 70s, and it's about a kind of weird. I think it's an island off the coast of the UK and paganism and kind of old English ritual.
Kirby
Yeah.
Isamea French
It really lives in that kind of world. And that's very. I love that.
Kirby
Ooh, okay. Okay. I have to look that up. Okay. And then. Was there another brand?
Isamea French
Yeah, I mean, there's a couple. The brand that I awarded the best career, you know, the creative award to was a brand called Manasi 7. Okay. And it's a beautiful Swedish brand. They do incredible color cosmetics. It's quite a kind of slow and gentle brand, which is very Swedish.
Kirby
Yeah.
Isamea French
And the founders. Lovely. Yeah. Beautiful color cosmetics. The packaging is really minimal and it was nice to discover that. Yeah.
Kirby
How cool. Okay, before we jump into your story and your incredible career, we know that everyone wants to know, what are five things that are always in your kit?
Isamea French
Okay.
Kirby
Well, and I know we just put.
Isamea French
You on the spot, so I have to include two of my own, of course. Okay. Because that's why they were developed. I really can't go anywhere without this guy. It's a face glaze.
Kirby
Okay.
Isamea French
So it's basically a clear gel product. I brought it. I was gonna put it on your lids and I'll reach across later.
Kirby
Put it here, put it here.
Isamea French
So it's basically. There you go. I just love glossy lids. I really feel like it's a beautiful way to just elevate. And I feel like adding gloss to your face, whether it's your cheekbones or your lids and your lips does so much for bringing youthfulness and life into your face. And I had never found a really beautiful gloss that had, like, that was long lasting, so it lasts me all day. And also we put really deep hydrating ingredients. It has like a brown algae extract in it. So When I've was developing the products, I wanted to put, like, potent actives in that. Do stuff while you wear it.
Kirby
Yeah.
Isamea French
So if it's like the eye area, which is delicate skin, and I wanted to be hydrating, so that's like. And I wear it at night.
Kirby
Oh.
Isamea French
Because all of this stuff.
Kirby
Skincare.
Isamea French
Oh, yeah. Yeah, totally.
Kirby
And I love the texture. It's not sticky.
Isamea French
No. It's silky. It's just beautiful. It's, like, glowy. And that's my number one. Ooh.
Kirby
I feel like this is very important for, like, editorial. Cause I feel like trying to, like, get that look, you know, for these magazine shoots, but it can be difficult to get.
Isamea French
That's really beautiful, but it's also very wearable. Every day, I just. Yeah, people should be wearing more gloss on their lids.
Kirby
FYI.
Isamea French
That's a takeaway makeup by Mario palette.
Kirby
Which one?
Isamea French
Well, good question. I have traditionally used the cool tone palette because I'm traditionally a cool tone girly. But now they have red hair. It's the warm tone palette for me, but it's just so well curated. Everybody I know has that palette, and I love it. And it's always and will forever, I imagine, live in my makeup bag.
Kirby
Okay. You were saying you're a big fan of Mario's.
Isamea French
I have such a crush on him. Yeah, he's awesome.
Kirby
I cannot wait to see you two collaborate one day. I feel like it's just gonna be like, two beauty masterminds.
Isamea French
Like, no. It's so genuine. And I just even, like, I watch his stories, and I'm like, you're so lovely and cute and nice, and I wanna be your friend.
Kirby
Oh, my gosh. He's just like, such a genuine person and so good at what he does. I'm such a big fan of the eyeshadow palettes too.
Isamea French
Well, he is kind of like the modern day Kevin Aucroix, isn't he? You know, that's. And I fell in love with Kevin Aucrot. That's how I got into makeup. Because I loved his book and I loved everything about him, and Mario definitely carries an air of that, so.
Kirby
Yeah, 100%. Yeah. It's like the artistry.
Isamea French
Yeah.
Kirby
Okay, that's two.
Isamea French
That's two. Okay. I. Oh, you know what? I actually really like Victoria Beckham lip liners. Ooh. Yeah. I like them. Number two is the one I wear. It's kind of an orangey shade.
Kirby
Okay.
Isamea French
And she's also a friend of mine. She's just released some really great brushes.
Kirby
Yes.
Isamea French
Which I use too. And I think her packaging is beautiful, but I don't know, she just really nailed it with that number two lip liner. It's quite. It's a kind of warm, spicy tone.
Kirby
Okay. Would look good on everyone.
Isamea French
Well, I think so.
Kirby
Okay.
Isamea French
I think so. Yeah.
Kirby
But always in your kit.
Isamea French
In my personal.
Kirby
In your personal kit. Okay.
Isamea French
In my personal kit. Are we talking personal. Are we talking makeup bag kit?
Kirby
Like, I was more speaking to, like, your kits.
Isamea French
My kit. Oh, right. I've just gotten ready for all my personal.
Kirby
No, but I also love to hear your personal kit. So, I mean, if we want to keep going with that, we can do that.
Isamea French
Okay. I've got a hero. The hourglass, like translucent powder.
Kirby
Okay.
Isamea French
That is my kit. Staple.
Kirby
Okay.
Isamea French
Yeah. Amazing.
Kirby
What about it?
Isamea French
It's incredibly light. The coverage is flawless. It goes a really long way in terms of skin tone. I mean, it errs on the banana Y color, actually, but it's really pretty universal. I love it. But it's just such an effortless product. So I would go for that too.
Kirby
Okay.
Isamea French
Final product, it's gonna have to be my color correcting serums.
Kirby
I mean, these guys. Of course. Of course.
Isamea French
And you should have a look at this one.
Kirby
Yes. Okay. So you have how many colors?
Isamea French
Well, we're developing more. So currently we have the lilac, the pistachio, the olive, mocha, rust, and caramel. So we have six. You just give it a squeeze and I thank you. I created because, you know, I'm actually not a big foundation wearer. Okay. And thank you.
Kirby
Gosh. Gorgeous.
Isamea French
And I just, look, I celebrate skin. That's always been my thing. And working it was funny, you know, because I, you know, I've been doing this for 15 years, so kind of pre Instagram TikTok era by a long way. And, you know, skin and makeup back then was about kind of really celebrating skin. And we kind of just began to cover ourselves up.
Kirby
Yeah.
Isamea French
And it's not true to me. So I wanted to create the color correcting serums basically to tackle all sorts of skin issues, from rosacea to hyperpigmentation to acne to scarring, to, you know, have a very light, quite sheer touch approach to skin. And of course, you can do your little bits of correction with your concealers, but it really helps to just make the skin look luminous. And I, I love the product.
Kirby
Oh, my gosh. It, like, it's just so gorgeous and I feel like it sits on the side skin so beautifully.
Isamea French
It really. It's an awesome product. Yeah, I've got to give you that.
Kirby
Yes. So for this particular color, like. Or who. How. How would we find the right color?
Isamea French
Yeah, good question. So I think the main thing is to. It's not a. It's not a foundation. Yeah. And because it's color and. And complexion, I think people get confused. Like, why is there any six? And we are developing more for different things, but it's about counteracting issues. So if you have, you know, predominantly reddish, you know, inflamed rosacea, you'd go for the pistachio. That would help to balance that out. The lilac goes a really long way because it's just a brightening. So it brightens. It brightens dark circles, it brightens pigmentation and tones that you might kind of, I guess, just want to lift. So we could both wear it. I think you could also wear it in places if you're a medium skin tone. The olive is awesome. I actually, I think I can say this on here. The olive was developed with Bella Hadid in mind, because I've worked with her quite a lot, and whenever I work with her, she's like. She said, you know, one of the things she wanted to have would be. Was a serum that kind of just gave her beautiful sort of like a.
Kirby
Filter ish type of.
Isamea French
Well, you know, if you're from that part of the world, you need sun. You know, you need that warmth and richness in your skin. And I think often those like, you know, Indian or Middle Eastern complexions can often suffer from not enough sun, and they can be kind of dull. And I wanted to create something that would restore that richness. So she put that in my mind years ago. I was like, we need to make something for this chick and for that skin type. So the olive does that.
Kirby
Got it. Okay. Just like, brings out, like, that beautiful warmth.
Isamea French
Yeah.
Kirby
Oh, I love that.
Isamea French
They all help to color. Correct. And especially with, like, pigmentation, they have a really soft, like, reflective pearl that just helps to lift. And then the deeper shades, caramel, rust, and mocha, just work for deeper skin tones that do have ashiness, need warmth, hyperpigmentation. And. And it's interesting because actually I sort of, you know, I developed it with my team, who all have much deeper skin tone primarily for that reason, because I wanted them to have something that could be just an easy product. You know, a lot of girls who have a deeper skin tones say to me, like, it's so annoying. There's just nothing for us that's like, sheer and easy, and we start to color. Correct. And then we've got to color. Correct the color correction, and then we've got a full face. And so this is for those girlies, you know, that just wanted a real light touch. Bit of great for beards, too, by the way.
Kirby
Okay.
Isamea French
You know, the products that have, like, canceling out those kind of ashy tones. So if you've got a deeper skin tone and you have a beard that you want to kind of help conceal, it's really good, too.
Kirby
Oh, amazing.
Isamea French
Yeah.
Kirby
Okay. I love that it's like. Like you said, it just sort of, like, brings your skin to life. Like, it's not, like, sparkly, glittery.
Isamea French
I mix it into my sun cream or into my foundation. Like, it's just.
Kirby
Oh, I love that. That's a great idea.
Isamea French
Yeah. So now. Now I. Any, you know, any sunscreen. And because it's. They're all skincare infused, they blend so well with other skin care products.
Kirby
Okay, so it sounds like you're, like, super into skin care. Where did that, you know, come from, that passion?
Isamea French
I mean, I love technology.
Kirby
Yeah.
Isamea French
I'm obsessed with it. So that sort of skin care is interesting in that way because so many things are, you know, it's like wellness, longevity, biohacking. Skin care. It's our biggest organ. It's a. It sort of displays our. Our DNA, in a sense. And whatever's going on inside often is reflected on the outside. Yeah. So it's just a really. Always fascinates me.
Kirby
Yeah. And it's, like, goes hand in hand with the makeup.
Isamea French
Yeah. And I felt, you know, the reason I developed makeup in this way for this line is because, you know, 15 years of working with thousands of faces, makeup can undo all the good work that we do with skincare. We all became skincare gurus in lockdown. And then all of a sudden, you kind of nail your skincare and you sort out your cystic acne, and you get hormone, and then you put a contour stick on and you get a breakout or you put your foundation on and you get, like, congestion and block pores. Yes. And the cycle comes back. So I was like, I have to make makeup that you can sleep in. It has to be that quality, and it has to really work in sort of tandem with all the good stuff we're already doing.
Kirby
Yeah.
Isamea French
We felt. So I was like, why hasn't anyone done this?
Kirby
Yeah. And I feel like it's like you're not marketing it as that, you know, like, whereas some brands, like, that's like their whole big spiel, but it's like anyone can use your products. Like makeup lovers, skincare lovers. Oh, yeah, it'll still work for their skin type.
Isamea French
I mean, predominantly, you know, it's color cosmetics. But I can't, you know, I couldn't release any color cosmetics that weren't doing good things for your skin.
Kirby
Totally. Yeah. Okay, we have to talk about how you got your start. And I read that you started face painting and at kids parties.
Isamea French
I did.
Kirby
I'm like, tell me, tell me how that was. Cause as someone who takes her kids to these kid parties, my favorite part about the party is the face painting, which I'm sure was a nightmare for you.
Isamea French
Look, I'll still take bookings. If it's you, you can book me.
Kirby
Oh, wow. Thank you.
Isamea French
I can still pull out a good Spider man every now and then. Well, I mean, when I went to university, I went to Central Saint Martin's I studied product design. I have a very artistic background, performance, fine art. And I dropped out of Central St. Martin's because I was. I just didn't feel conceptual enough for me. It didn't like satisfy that artistic streak. And I needed to make some money. My parents were like, you know, pulled the rug out. They're like, we're not paying for your oyster card anymore and we're definitely not paying for your rent. You know, you've dropped out. Sort yourself out. Goodbye. I mean, my mom was like, here's some train money. My dad was like, yeah, yeah, totally.
Kirby
Typical mom and dad.
Isamea French
Yeah. And then of course, I had to pay it all back. But I didn't want to get a bar job. I'd worked as a chef in the past. I'd done waitressing. I was a dental nurse at one point of my life.
Kirby
Oh my God. Crazy.
Isamea French
And my sister asked me if I could go and do some kids face painting at her kids school. Fate. And I was like, yeah, sure. And I just did it. And I was like, oh, it's actually quite fun. Yeah, I was like 20.
Kirby
Yeah. Like obviously creative and artistic. Did you know you were good at like painting and makeup?
Isamea French
Not well. I mean, I bought the Kevyn Aucoin book when I was seven years old. I walked, you know, I went to.
Kirby
It's always been in you, I think.
Isamea French
Yeah, it has. I wasn't necessarily a makeup wearer, but I, you know, I love faces, I love storytelling, I love theater, film, you know, the transformation process. So anyway, was 19. That's a lot. 18. 19. 18.
Kirby
19 year old job.
Isamea French
Yeah. And I just got really good at it and I Joined an agency, and I took courses in body painting. And then I got interested in special effects, and it just kind of snowballed, really. And I. Long and short of it is I was asked to do some body painting for ID Magazine, and I turned up with my kit and my dirty brushes, and my. You know, it was. There was. There was just. No, it was just still art.
Kirby
Yeah.
Isamea French
And. And I did it, and I was working with clay, and I was covering the models in clay and painting them, and it was. And I remember looking over to the makeup art artist, the real makeup artist. I was body painter. Makeup artist on set. I remember brushing, like, cleaning out of my nails in the sink and washing my brushes, and it was all very messy. And I remember looking at her kit and being like, I could do that. Yeah, that looks really.
Kirby
Yeah.
Isamea French
Nice. And I literally went to Boots, which is your equivalent of what would.
Kirby
It's like Target.
Isamea French
Target, cvsc, kind of.
Kirby
Yeah.
Isamea French
I bought a few foundations from number seven.
Kirby
Yeah.
Isamea French
I brought, like, a mascara and maybe a powder. Like, I didn't know what I was doing, but I just bought some basics.
Kirby
To build your kit.
Isamea French
And I was. I was a makeup artist.
Kirby
Yeah.
Isamea French
And then I just started getting bookings off the back of that. And I did a lot of men's first.
Kirby
Okay.
Isamea French
Did a lot of men's shows and grooming and building up my kit really slowly. And it's so crazy to think back at, you know, like, you know, like, going to. And make, you know, number seven from Boots, you know, almost 20 years ago. It was probably so bad, but I made it.
Kirby
Yeah. I mean, you obviously had talent.
Isamea French
Yeah, I loved it. I loved it. Yeah.
Kirby
That's crazy. Okay, so then you went to. You were at id Then you said you were at Dazed.
Isamea French
Yeah.
Kirby
Okay, so you helped build that beauty, like, vertical.
Isamea French
Yeah. Dazed. I was such a passion project. It was a really important part of my life, actually. And it was kind of. I think what I realized was Instagram kind of democratized beauty in a sense. You know, I think for many years, and I've heard Val Garden talk about this as well. Beauty in an editorial space and in general was just dominated by, like, probably, like, five makeup artists, maybe eight, you know, and they did everything because editorial was the only creative outlet that people could see. And I think Instagram came and sort of changed that. And all of a sudden, there were these phenomenal young talents out there, people who were, you know, underrepresent from specific backgrounds. The LGBTQ community that just didn't have a space. And I could see this, and I was like, there has to be a space for these people. So I set up Days Beauty. We launched a print magazine for the launch, and it's still a, you know, very legitimate beauty platform, particularly for, like, a younger, like, Gen Z audience, millennial audience, basically, to create a space and also to explore beauty in different mediums, you know, through the lens of, you know, a game, game engine, software engineer. What does beauty look like through that lens? Or what does beauty look like through the lens of, like, a 3D designer or AI beauty? And, yeah, it was a really important thing for me to create a space for people.
Kirby
Yeah. Oh, my gosh. That's so, so cool. So how long had you been working as a makeup artist before you really felt like a makeup artist?
Isamea French
Like, you know, I don't know that I still do. Oh, come on. Come on.
Kirby
One moment where you're like, like, okay, like, obviously, you know, you were saying, like, oh, wow, like, I could be doing this as a job, but what moment did you feel like? Okay, I, I, I see the vision. I know. Like, my POV on beauty.
Isamea French
My, my career started out, I started as a very creative makeup artist. And when I look back now, again, like, I was at, like, 19, 20, very young, and my makeup was such a reflection of that naivety. It's only now that I can see that, you know, I brought my face painting to the pages of ID magazine. Like, I was using children's Lego to make face sculptures in, you know, London Fashion Week. I was really young and playful, and I think there just hadn't been that expression for maybe ever in the beauty space and kind of, I guess, re appropriated what beauty could be somewhat. So definitely I knew very quickly that, you know, but I felt like an artist, didn't really feel like a makeup artist. And then I think when I was hired for the Tom Ford brand to work on their extreme collection and help kind of develop more interesting and exciting colors and textures, sort of legitimized things a bit for me, maybe. And I was like, I can do makeup. Okay. Tom Ford says I can do makeup. Except for he kind of caveated it with just so, you know, anything you can do, I can do better. And I was like, yes, yes, Queen, I'm sure you can, and you are so welcome to as well.
Kirby
That seems like such a Tom Ford thing to say. Say, oh, my God. I'm sure you learned a lot from him.
Isamea French
Yeah, I think I've learned a lot from all the amazing founders and visionaries I've worked with. Yes, Tom Ford, Ricardo Tisky, like Ben Gorham. I worked for many years with the Mac team when James Gager was at Mac. And it's just been really awesome to work with so many different perspectives on beauty. And beauty is so vast and personal and I've caught, I've learned a huge amount. Yeah.
Kirby
So as someone who, you know, maybe didn't take the traditional path of like what a makeup artist is told to do, you know, go to beauty school, this and that. What advice do you have to like up and coming makeup artists or people who want to get into beauty? Like, obviously you figured it out and made your own path.
Isamea French
It's a difficult one because things are so different now, you know, and because.
Kirby
Of social media, because of the over saturation of beauty. Totally.
Isamea French
I think it can be incredibly difficult for people to really find space to express, you know, it's a sort of blessing and a curse. Instagram and social media, in a way, I think aside from just, you know, beauty, just focus on what you're passionate about, whatever that shape or form takes. Like, what do you enjoy doing beyond a kind of, if you want to get into beauty, do this. You know, you just have to do what you love and things will manifest. And if you love it that much and you have that much determination because you're so willing to, it will happen. Yeah, I think. And, and I would say that about anything, you know, accounting.
Kirby
Right.
Isamea French
Engineering, whatever your passion is, follow your passion and be, be open minded. Okay. Yeah.
Kirby
So was your passion always to create your own brand after working with Tom Ford and Mac and all of these brands, were you like. I wanted to start my own brand because I feel like I, you know, there's a white space of, you know, what I want to do or you're like, they're not doing what I think needs to exist.
Isamea French
A bit of both, I think. You know, I started the brand in lockdown and it was great because then I had loads of time to think about what I wanted to do. I think working with different brands was enriching, but also limiting as a creative. And I got to a point where I was like, oh, there's just so much more that could be done, you know, in terms of not just packaging, but how you communicate, you know, how you do a campaign, how you talk about things. A big white space in so many different areas of the beauty conversation. You know, even like again, maybe underrepresented subcultures of beauty that want to exist. You know, that's why kind of the industrial collection was so fun. Because everyone. There's so many people like. Yeah, I. I resonate with that. And I've never been able to resonate with a beauty brand. Yeah. And that was lovely.
Kirby
Yeah.
Isamea French
So, yeah.
Kirby
Yeah. Okay. So you launch in 2022, and I remember when you launched because it was, you know, during the time there was a lot of brands launching, obviously, but you really made a statement, especially with. Obviously, the formulas were incredible, and I feel like people knew that coming from you. Oh, thank you. The packaging.
Isamea French
Yeah.
Kirby
Really made a statement.
Isamea French
Yeah.
Kirby
Tell us what the thought was. What was the strategy behind that?
Isamea French
Well, I think because I have this editorial background and, you know, I work in seasons with. With fashion, so. And. And that always changes. And I, you know, I. I felt it was quite difficult to think about what my beauty brand would look like for, like, 10 years. I didn't want it to look the same. I wanted to do lots of different iterations of beauty expression.
Kirby
Like an evolution.
Isamea French
Yeah. And also just like capsules.
Kirby
Yes.
Isamea French
That was what was fun for me, you know.
Kirby
Okay.
Isamea French
I wanted to launch fashion, like you said.
Kirby
Okay.
Isamea French
Yeah. It's very difficult to do that. It's a lot of work involved. It's very hard for the team to keep up because we're changing, you know, but it's so much fun and so rewarding and so creative. So, you know, I did that for a couple of years. We did the industrial collection, and that really stemmed from, I guess, a bit of a zeitgeist and an intuition. And funnily enough, when I launched it, it was literally at the same time as, like, Balenciaga and Kanye did the whole leather thing and leather masks. And then there was, you know, it was just everyone was wearing leather and everyone was suddenly into BDSM and, like, New age goth movement. So I was like, cool, wow, we're on track. Yeah. And it felt like definitely the most extreme antithesis of what beauty I'd seen so far. So it made sense to launch with industrial. And then the wildstar collection was just a total counter to that. I was like, what's the opposite of that? Well, it's like a rodeo bar. And, like, probably. Well, we did it across the road. We hosted a huge event at the. What's the.
Kirby
Oh, saddle ran.
Isamea French
Yeah.
Kirby
Yeah.
Isamea French
I'm really good on a rodeo ball, by the way. I, like, stayed on till the very end. Oh, damn.
Kirby
Yay. That's a flex.
Isamea French
Can officiate that. And then. And you know, and then we did the lips collection, which was the penis shaped lipstick, which funnily Enough now. I didn't know why I did it at the time. I just knew I had to. I was like, why has no one done this? It just got to do this thing.
Kirby
It is such a collector's item.
Isamea French
Well, I think a lot of people don't realize how heavy it is. Oh, that's a real object.
Kirby
There is some weight to it.
Isamea French
Super. I mean, I wanted it to live on. I wanted it to have an afterlife. But, you know, when I look back now, during that time, there were so many conversations happening around the world about body. You know, there was nudity on the tv, The White Lotus came out. There were these kind of abortion laws and conversations in the U.S. you know, conversations around gender identity. You know, trans rights movements were happening. It was a real moment where people were like. Like, you know, trying to claim their bodies back for themselves. And so it kind of just made sense. People were ready for it.
Kirby
Yeah. So what was, like, maybe the most difficult part about creating a brand during that time for you? During the. The beginning, like, when you, you know, we're really trying to make a statement, set yourself apart from other brands. What would you say was the most challenging part?
Isamea French
It's a lot of work. Work. It's just a lot of work. I don't know. It's just so much work.
Kirby
Still is.
Isamea French
And it still is. You know, it's a lot of work for me because I do everything.
Kirby
Yes. And I can imagine, you know, you being such a creative person, but then, like you were saying, you know, being at this business of fashion, talking to other founders, they're coming from a very, like, business mindset, and so you have to be bothered both.
Isamea French
Well, and it. And it's only really in the last year that I have fully. I feel like I've done a, like, business degree in the last year, and I had to, you know, I primarily, you know, at the brand on the creative side. I do the packaging, I do the product. I mean, you do everything. Yeah. The campaign direction. I work really closely with a good friend of mine, Tiff, on the campaigns. I do work on the marketing strategy. I, you know, look after the teams. Digital Instagram retailers have all the conversations with them doing.
Kirby
It's.
Isamea French
I do. It's so much work. And I think this year more than ever, I was like, I need to now really get into the bones of the business. You know, I've done the creative piece, and now I need to treat it as. It's becoming so much more than that now for me. So it's been of such a Mad journey.
Kirby
Yeah, yeah. How big is the team?
Isamea French
It's. Well, it's quite small really. We have about 10 people in the office in London.
Kirby
That's nice.
Isamea French
Yeah.
Kirby
Intimate.
Isamea French
Oh, yeah. And some have been there right from the very beginning. And I have such a wonderful team. We also shoot so much in house. So, you know, all the still lifes that you see, all the texture videos, all of the majority of it we just do in our office.
Kirby
Wow.
Isamea French
And that's awesome. And I love that we can be so creative all the time and I can go in and brief people and, you know, work with them and build their careers too. We take on majority of the team are like junior creatives, which is great. So, you know. Yeah, it's lovely.
Kirby
Do you feel like that is part of the reason the brand is so successful is because you are part of every team? You're, you know, doing like you said, the packaging, the formula, campaigns, like.
Isamea French
Well, that would be taking on a, like that feel inflating if I said that. I think, I think just that you.
Kirby
Are, you know, aware of everything happening in every part of the business, whereas maybe some founders are like, I don't really know that. So I'm just gonna let you take that.
Isamea French
Well, I think, I think first of all, I think people just appreciate the creativity and I hope it stands out in that way. I think we're a very adaptable brand because I'm very happy to make mistakes and learn from them. You know, this is as much an exercise for me in just learning and getting things wrong or right. And I want to build, you know, what I want to do this year is actually build an even deeper connection to my audience and be able to share even more and share the creative process and ask them for their opinions and really invite them into product development. And I think, I hope there feels like a genuineness and I, you know, I really encourage people to also just buy directly from founder led brands because the majority of the time, especially like a creative, you know, your makeup artist or whatever, we really care, like we care so much about the product it has to perform. You know, I have to use this to use it on myself and on my clients and everywhere else. So it's a really important message for all of those people listening in. Founders care.
Kirby
Absolutely. When you mention your audience, who do you think your audience is?
Isamea French
This is a really hard question. Well, you'd be surprised at how many grandmothers bought the penis lipstick. That was a real.
Kirby
Oh my God, I love tiki lips.
Isamea French
You just never know where they come Going to go.
Kirby
Yeah.
Isamea French
I don't know. Actually, I think I've, you know, I think I've kind of captured different audiences. I've still got, like, the day's beauty audience that have been so incredibly loyal and faithful. And I think now we're actually looking at new audiences that are really interested in, you know, the skincare hybrid makeup. And I actually don't know. I think because I have an artistry background, there's also an audience that's just curious about, you know, the brand. And what would you say?
Kirby
Yeah, no, I think, like, you said, like, I think you have, like, a good mix of, you know, both beauty lovers, people who see beauty as art, and then you have this new generation of people that really want the skin care infused in their makeup. And then obviously, people who, like, really admire, like, the packaging. I think, like, packaging is really important, and it's just so beautiful. I mean, like, who don't want this on their vanity. But I love to hear that grandmas are buying the penis lipstick, because that will be me and Kirby when we are old. Okay, what product is your best selling?
Isamea French
Well, funnily enough, this is. The microbial gel has been massive. We kind of just didn't realize it was going to take off in the way it did. I'm so happy about it. It's kind of a multifunctional primer. It has ingredients that feed your skin's good bacteria. So when I've worked again, it goes back to this whole thing of, like. Like working with thousands of faces that are like, oh, do you have to put makeup on me? Because actually, it makes you break out. And, you know, backstage, it shows. There's people sharing brushes, and there's all sorts going on. Chaos. And, you know, the skin's good bacteria is the gateway to health. You know, healthy skin, good complexion. So that just. That feeds it. I'm actually going to reformulate it to be even more potent. And I wanted to create a primer that's like, your sheet so that especially, you know, for anyone or makeup artists or anyone, that you can wear it and feel really good. It's like your first I. And I've literally started wearing it at night, too. I didn't realize this was gonna happen, but I've started wearing the lip serum, the face glaze on my eyes, and then the microbial gel at night, and.
Kirby
I wake up so gorgeous, gone to.
Isamea French
Sleep, like, where's my Prince Charming? Maybe I do want, like, a robber to come in in the night.
Kirby
Make sure your cats think you look Fabulous.
Isamea French
Yeah.
Kirby
What product do you think should be a bestseller that isn't or just that people are sleeping on?
Isamea French
Well, they're all doing really well, which is lovely. They're all doing well, however. Or do you have a favorite? Well, the product I think that could have even more airtime is the metal lips.
Kirby
Okay.
Isamea French
These guys here. And, yeah, I developed them because I love lip balm and I love lip product, and it's a real hero. The categories, you know, has always been quite big at the brand, but I was like, how can we, like, push a really easy, everyday, like, lip product and make it just feel a bit, you know, cool and so metallic lips? I was like, yeah, that's so modern. Like, just. I think the thing I love and as I, like, get older is I love, like, really beautiful elevated skin with like a twist, you know, like, whether that's like the lashify Collab, which was the edge lash, or it's the face glaze glossy eye, or it's this metal lip. I just think that's so modern. Yeah. So I love the metal. Do you want to have a look?
Kirby
Have you tried it? Yes, I have. I have them at home and it just looks so pretty. Like, alone or as a topper? Yeah, please.
Isamea French
This is.
Kirby
Show us. Which one is that?
Isamea French
Chalice.
Kirby
Okay. You have, like, the most beautiful lips, by the way.
Isamea French
Oh, thank you. Thank you. And it's a balmy. It's a balm. I don't know you can see it.
Kirby
Over there, but it's super comfortable on the wall.
Isamea French
Shimmery.
Kirby
Really hydrating. Yeah.
Isamea French
So.
Kirby
Oh, my gosh. Wow. Okay, so you are in Sephora.
Isamea French
Yes.
Kirby
Which is so exciting.
Isamea French
Yes.
Kirby
As we've learned from many founders we've interviewed, it can also be really scary or intimidating. You know, it's. It's a lot of pressure. Did you feel like you had to change the brand at all before you entered Sephora?
Isamea French
They've been such an amazing partner. And we talked, you know, like, it's like getting into bed with anyone, isn't it? You both want to have a good time. And they, I came to them, you know, when they. When they said they were interested in the new line, it was really important for me to make sure that I was giving them what they want and what their customer wants too. And actually they just really love the product. And I think they, you know, they said it feels like it's, you know, hitting that white space, that kind of modern, skincare infused interesting, you know, like, with the color correcting serum, kind of a new Approach anyway, so they've been great, and we have regular feedback and, you know, things that they say we could improve and. Or the package, you know, packaging or whatever. Yeah, they've been a great partner, so I kept them a little bit in mind, but I kept them present during the development process, and we would send them samples, and I would say, what do you think this is? I'm doing these skin duos, and it was all really positive, so I feel awesome about it.
Kirby
Amazing.
Isamea French
Yeah.
Kirby
Is there something that people might not realize, realize about partnering with a big retailer like Sephora?
Isamea French
I think there's a. You know, you definitely have to level up in terms of suddenly there's a lot more demand just on the team.
Kirby
Yeah.
Isamea French
You got to produce more product. They need assets. There are certain just, I guess just all over demands because you also have to fit into their world, and that's a really big world. So I think not in terms of. Of changing the makeup, but it's just more the way that we have to, I suppose, give back in the way that they're supporting us. We need to do our bit too, and give them assets and that kind of thing. Yeah.
Kirby
Just thinking about this question and then going back to. You were asking me what I think or who I think your audience is. I feel like the cool beauty lover, like, the cool girl is shopping. Isameya.
Isamea French
Oh, that's nice.
Kirby
Thank you. Like, if I'm thinking about the brand at Sephora, I And like, different consumers coming in, like, I just feel like, how could you not feel cool carrying that lipstick so much? Thank you for putting it on. And I also feel like, even though, you know, you. Your products are helping to, like, enhance, like, what's already there. Like, it really does make you feel kind of badass. Like, you're, like, kind of confident.
Isamea French
Yeah, I love to hear that.
Kirby
Right? I love to hear that. I feel like that's the vibe that I get when I use your product.
Isamea French
Thank you so much. Well, I tried to put a bit of editorial into it, you know, but I think the other thing is just having it just looking at beauty in a new way. I mean, yeah, we've still got lipsticks and stuff, but, you know, like the eyeglass or, you know, the metal lip or we've just launched. I should have brought them palettes. Eyeshadow palette. So we had such a demand for eyeshadow palettes from my previous collections, and we have listened, and I'm sorry it's taken so long, but we now have them, and they. Their beautiful, super colorful Palettes.
Kirby
Oh, my gosh, I can't wait.
Isamea French
I will send you them as soon as they're available.
Kirby
When are they launching?
Isamea French
So we are. I think we're doing a pre launch and then they'll be available in August.
Kirby
Okay.
Isamea French
So just a couple more months.
Kirby
Okay, great. We will be waiting. I'm curious if this was brought up at all when you were at the Business of Fashion event, or if it's something that you've thought about. Speaking of, like, being so overwhelmed with, like, all the decisions and, you know, feedback this and that. Have you or your team, like, thought about, about, like, integrating AI or tapping into that while you still can be creative and artistic?
Isamea French
Well, we've talked about it and I did an Instagram Live recently because I was. I said to the team, right, we've got to do swatches. And swatches are boring and they can be quite expensive and it's very time consuming. But they're really important tool for the consumer to navigate color and stuff. Right. So you need to do, you know, arm swatches. I'm talking about, you know, on the website.
Kirby
Yeah.
Isamea French
And they just bought. It's always the same format. And I was like, why do we do it with AI? Because all it is is a tool, really. It's not like it's a model's face or anything. It's just like an arm and a skin tone and whatever. And quite rightly, you know, my team questioned it and they were like, hang on, a lot of people really don't like AI and they don't like the fact that creatives are using it, you know, and it's taking away jobs. And I think we should just err on the side the of. Let's just talk about it a bit longer. I was like, I want to do AI. It sounds really fun. I want to make a creative swat. You know, they're like, just calm down in some air. They're really good at telling me to. And I went on Instagram Live that night because I wanted to know what people thought. And we'd had an AI creative agency pitch on these swatches and the images were so cool. I was like, it was awesome. So I asked my community and actually people were kind of in the middle. There was a bit of a, like, well, it depends how you do it. And, you know, maybe you could do like, you know, a couple of real arms so that people aren't losing out on jobs and then just, you know, replicate that. Use AI to, like, fill in the gaps. I see they were kind of like, not here, not there. I was like, well, then kind of what's the point?
Kirby
Right.
Isamea French
But then somebody came on the live and she said, you know, it's the, the human cost, the cost on sort of the earth, you know, the amount of water that's used. There are all of these other considerations. Forget the artistry.
Kirby
Right, right, right. Yeah.
Isamea French
What's the earth cost? What's the human cost? Think about that. And so that's when I said, okay, until I feel secure that the things I'm doing, I can sleep at night, let's wait and let's hold off. And there are ways of doing it. There are companies that are, that don't drain huge res, have kind of AI Sweatshots or whatever. So it's a powerful creative tool. I, I think it's amazing. It's. So if you are a creative, it's wonderful to have something help you express your creative vision in a really extraordinary way that you couldn't have done. Yeah. So it's a hard one.
Kirby
Yeah.
Isamea French
Because I celebrate it. But I understand there are also I'm.
Kirby
Right with you arguments. Yeah. I think it's like either way, it's the future whether or not we participate or not. So trying to figure out the best way to use it to support us and the best capabilities.
Isamea French
That's what I feel.
Kirby
Yeah. So. But I, I'm. I'm totally with you. I think about like, yeah, all the water that's being used when I'm like chatgpting a stupid quest.
Isamea French
I know. But then, but then I'm like, but what about a Google search engine?
Kirby
Right, Right.
Isamea French
And then what about like, how much water it costs to like, you know, grow soybeans or whatever.
Kirby
Totally. Or it's hard to know the photos and the content that we're saving in this cloud and like the power that it's, you know, using.
Isamea French
Totally. Because if you want to get into the nitty gritty, you should probably be like a goat farmer in Mongolia and just like go off grid, you know, pick your battles 100% and try and remain informed.
Kirby
Yes, exactly. I think that's the most important thing. Okay, I'm going to ask you this question that Kirby wrote. I don't know what this book is about, so I'm asking this question for Kirby. You recently posted about the book the Matter with Things. Yeah, I need to know what the book is about because I don't know how has this affected your work professionally?
Isamea French
Thanks, Kirby. Glad you're watching. And I'm so happy to talk about this book. Well, fundamentally the book is about the nature of reality and how our brains operate. We have two different hemispheres, the left and the right, and they, they operate in different ways and they have a different perspective on the world. And it's so. And it's fundamentally just about how our consciousness and our sense of reality is shaped in relation to our brains. And it's really interesting. He, the, the author is called Ian McGilchriss. He wrote a book before that called the Master and His Emissary. And it's a similar, similar themes. And basically when we were evolving, we, you know, take a bird for example. It had to be able to like focus on say, breaking open a nut or, you know, eating a worm. Had to focus on being able to do a task, but it also had to have a sense of awareness that like a predator wasn't going to come along. So you've got two different modes of operating. You've got, got the kind of focused attention structure which actually is also the language center of the brain in the left hemisphere and then you have the right hemisphere, which is really about. It's where our intuition comes from. It's where creativity stems from. The right hemisphere can speak in metaphor. It's our kind of, it's everything to do with our relationship to ourself and other things. It's a re. We could be here for hours. So I'll keep it brief. Yeah. But what's been really interesting with the book, the more you learn about the way the two hemispheres operate and how they create your perception of things, the more you can kind of play with it and understand like, okay, is this my left brain clicking into gear now? Because really the right brain should be driving.
Kirby
Yeah.
Isamea French
And the left brain should be taking notes and the left brain should be categorizing and stuff, but the right brain should be what you're driving with. And often what happens is we switch into the left brain and the kind of problem solving, logical whatever comes in. And that's actually can be very dangerous and very limiting. And for creatives especially, you know, being in your right brain is so important. So I love the book because not only does it help me on a creative level, but also it just explores really interesting schools of philosophy about reality because we shape our own reality. Yeah, I'm sure you, you know, you probably know Joe Dispenza. He's like, you know, he talks about like quantum meditation. And you'll probably look at me like.
Kirby
Yeah, where are you going with this? Let's go, let's go.
Isamea French
Back to blood.
Kirby
No, no, no.
Isamea French
But just, you know, you know, it. It just reinforces that thing of, like, where you place your attention and your energy is so important. So be careful with it, you know, because what you focus your attention on will bring to life, whether that's negativity, whether that's your trauma, whether that's self doubt, you know, just really interesting. So I'll let you read it.
Kirby
I had a therapy session just.
Isamea French
Oh, no.
Kirby
In the best way possible. Okay. I have one more final question before I let you go.
Isamea French
Yeah.
Kirby
You've worked on so many iconic looks, on so many, like, iconic faces. Is there one that's, like, stands out or is, like, a favorite or one that's really means a lot to you?
Isamea French
Well, I mean, instantly my brain goes back to Rihanna.
Kirby
Yeah.
Isamea French
But I don't know if that's because so many people talk about it.
Kirby
Yeah.
Isamea French
When we did the skinny eyebrow, when we did the truth across her face, or I did a. Something that has been popping up recently was when she did the Star Trek video and we painted, like, ancient rune symbols down her face and shaved off her eyebrows, and we had some really creative moments together.
Kirby
What is it like working with her in that way? Is she just game? Oh, yeah, yeah. She's like.
Isamea French
She knows what she wants, though, right?
Kirby
Okay.
Isamea French
You know, she's. Yeah, she knows what she wants, which is great. And she's really down to try stuff. And I think. I think she just likes to embody, you know, the character. That's what it felt like when I was working with her. And then who else do. I. I'm just so lucky. I've worked with awesome faces. I've worked with Cher. I've worked with Madonna. You know, like, two incredible icons. Icons. They're my icons, and I love that too. And again, they, like, teach me a lot about makeup. I mean, Cher, for example, you know, was like, best friends with Kevin Aucoire, so she had all these incredible stor stories about working with him, and I just, you know, she teaches me stuff, and it's. It's awesome.
Kirby
Oh, that's so cool.
Isamea French
Yeah. So I've made lucky.
Kirby
Oh, my God. Amazing.
Isamea French
Yeah.
Kirby
Is there someone that you haven't worked on that you would love to.
Isamea French
Well, that could be a part two.
Kirby
Okay.
Isamea French
Okay.
Kirby
We'll leave you hanging. Yeah. Thank you so much. Is amazing. We're so happy.
Isamea French
Thank you so much.
Kirby
Congratulations on all the success.
Isamea French
Thank you.
Kirby
Cannot wait for those palettes.
Isamea French
Thank you.
Kirby
Where can our listen listeners buy Isamea? Where can they find you?
Isamea French
Well you can find us on ismail.com we hope you love these mayor.com website we love it too. And Sephora of course in store so if you want to go in and try the product, that's the best place to go.
Kirby
And then where can we find you for your content? Your Instagram lives.
Isamea French
My well my personal Instagram channel is is Mayor French and then I often pop up on the beauty channel is my beautiful.
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Gloss Angeles Podcast Summary
Episode: The Inimitable Isamaya Ffrench on Her Well-Rounded Beauty Career, AI, and Creating
Release Date: June 20, 2025
Hosts: Kirbie Johnson and Sara Tan
Guest: Isamaya Ffrench, British Makeup Artist, Creative Director, and Beauty Innovator
In this vibrant episode of Gloss Angeles, co-host Kirbie Johnson welcomes the illustrious British makeup artist and creative director, Isamaya Ffrench. The conversation delves deep into Isamaya's multifaceted career in the beauty industry, her innovative product line, and her perspectives on integrating artificial intelligence (AI) within beauty practices.
Isamaya shares her unconventional path into the beauty industry, highlighting her artistic roots and initial ventures into face painting at children's parties.
Early Beginnings:
"[When] I was 19, my sister asked me if I could go and do some kids' face painting at her kids' school. Fate. And I was like, yeah, sure." (14:28)
Education and Early Career:
She studied product design at Central Saint Martins but left to support herself, leading her to various jobs before discovering her passion for makeup art.
Breakthrough Moments:
Turning her face painting skills into professional makeup artistry, Isamaya recounts her pivotal experience working with ID Magazine and subsequently with renowned brands like Tom Ford and MAC.
"I was a makeup artist. And then I just started getting bookings off the back of that. And I did a lot of men's first." (17:31)
Isamaya discusses the creation of Days Beauty, a platform she launched to democratize beauty and provide space for underrepresented voices.
Inspiration Behind the Brand:
Recognizing the limitations of traditional beauty editorial spaces, Isamaya sought to create a more inclusive and diverse platform.
"Beauty in an editorial space and in general was just dominated by, like, probably, like, five makeup artists... Instagram came and sort of changed that." (18:04)
Mission and Vision:
Days Beauty aims to explore beauty through various modern lenses, including AI and 3D design, fostering a community that embraces creativity and diversity.
Transitioning from working with established brands, Isamaya founded her own beauty line during the lockdown, focusing on creativity and skincare-infused makeup.
Brand Strategy and Evolution:
"I didn't want it to look the same. I wanted to do lots of different iterations of beauty expression." (24:36)
She emphasizes the importance of adaptability and creativity, launching collections that resonate with contemporary cultural movements.
Signature Products:
Face Glaze: A clear gel that adds a glossy finish to eyes, cheeks, and lips, infused with hydrating ingredients like brown algae extract.
"It's very silky. It's just beautiful. It's, like, glowy." (04:19)
Color Correcting Serums: Designed to address various skin concerns with sheer coverage, celebrating natural skin while providing corrective benefits.
"I celebrate skin. That's always been my thing." (09:00)
Metal Lips: A modern take on lip products with unique shapes and metallic finishes, adding an edgy twist to everyday beauty routines.
"How can we, like, push a really easy, everyday, like, lip product and make it just feel a bit, you know, cool and so metallic lips?" (34:06)
Best-Selling Product:
The Microbial Gel Primer has become a fan favorite, praised for its multifunctional benefits and skin-friendly ingredients.
"It's a primer that's like, your sheet. Absolutely gorgeous." (32:28)
Isamaya candidly discusses the hurdles of establishing and scaling a beauty brand, particularly during a saturated market phase.
Workload and Responsibilities:
"I do everything. The campaign direction. I work really closely with a good friend of mine, Tiff, on the campaigns." (27:39)
Managing creative and business aspects simultaneously presents significant challenges.
Partnering with Sephora:
Entering a major retailer like Sephora required navigating increased demand and aligning product development with broader market expectations.
"They have been such an amazing partner... they just really love the product." (35:21)
The conversation shifts to the potential and pitfalls of using AI in the beauty industry, especially in product presentation and consumer interaction.
AI Swatches Debate:
Isamaya explores the idea of using AI to create arm swatches, balancing creativity with ethical considerations.
"AI is a powerful creative tool. It's amazing." (39:27)
However, concerns about environmental impact and job displacement lead her to pause its implementation until more sustainable methods are available.
Balancing Innovation and Responsibility:
She emphasizes the need for responsible AI usage, advocating for solutions that support creativity without compromising ethical standards.
"What's the earth cost? What's the human cost?" (40:41)
Reflecting on her career, Isamaya highlights her collaborations with iconic figures and the lessons learned from each experience.
Working with Rihanna:
"When we did the skinny eyebrow, when we did the truth across her face... we had some really creative moments together." (46:25)
Her work with Rihanna exemplifies her ability to blend creativity with the artist's vision seamlessly.
Other Legends:
Isamaya also mentions working with Cher and Madonna, drawing inspiration from their legendary status and unique styles.
"Cher teaches me stuff, and it's... awesome." (47:42)
Isamaya offers valuable insights for those looking to enter the beauty industry, emphasizing passion, adaptability, and authenticity.
Follow Your Passion:
"Whatever your passion is, follow your passion and be open-minded." (22:17)
She encourages aspiring artists to pursue what they love, assuring that determination will pave the way for success.
Embrace Creativity and Learning:
Highlighting the importance of creativity, Isamaya advises embracing mistakes as learning opportunities and staying true to one's artistic vision.
Looking ahead, Isamaya discusses upcoming product launches, including highly anticipated eyeshadow palettes set to debut in August. She reiterates her commitment to building deeper connections with her audience and fostering a community grounded in genuine creativity and innovation.
Upcoming Products:
"We have the palettes... launching in August." (38:34)
Final Thoughts:
Isamaya emphasizes the importance of founder-led brands and invites listeners to engage with her brand directly for a more authentic experience.
"Founders care. I hope you love these." (31:09)
Listeners interested in exploring Isamaya's products and following her creative journey can visit her website and social media channels:
Conclusion
This episode of Gloss Angeles offers an inspiring look into Isamaya Ffrench's dynamic career and her innovative approach to beauty. From her artistic beginnings to building a brand that harmonizes creativity with skincare, Isamaya provides invaluable insights and encouragement for both beauty enthusiasts and aspiring artists. Her thoughtful exploration of AI's role in beauty underscores the importance of balancing innovation with ethical responsibility, making this a must-listen for anyone passionate about the future of beauty.