History Extra Podcast: "Cheese History: Everything You Wanted to Know"

Release Date: May 24, 2025
Host: Isabel King
Guest: Ned Palmer, Cheesemonger and Author of "A Cheesemonger’s History of the British Isles"

Introduction

In the "Cheese History: Everything You Wanted to Know" episode of the History Extra Podcast, host Isabel King delves deep into the rich and varied history of cheese with renowned cheesemonger and author Ned Palmer. The conversation spans from the origins of cheese-making to its profound impact on society, touching upon cultural, economic, and technological aspects that have shaped this beloved dairy product.

Defining Cheese

[02:37] Ned Palmer:
"Cheese is a delicious solid made from liquid milk... fermented with bacterial starter cultures, coagulated with rennet, and has salt added."

Ned Palmer begins by offering a comprehensive definition of cheese, highlighting its basic components and the essential processes involved in its creation. He emphasizes that cheese-making lacks a strict legal definition but is fundamentally a fermented, coagulated milk product derived from ruminant animals.

Origins and Early History of Cheese

[03:37] Ned Palmer:
"I think the very first cheese actually had rennet as part of it... maybe discovered in the stomach of a ruminant animal, probably a goat."

Exploring the ancient origins of cheese, Palmer suggests that cheese-making likely began in the stomachs of domesticated ruminants. The use of rennet, an enzyme found in these animals, was crucial in coagulating milk, thereby initiating the cheese-making process. He references Hittite texts from around 2000-3000 BCE as the earliest written evidence of cheese, indicating its significance as a durable food source for traveling and military purposes.

Roman Influence on British Cheese Making

[06:31] Ned Palmer:
"The Romans brought proto-industrial cheese-making technology to Britain, introducing tools like bronze vats and cheese cutting knives."

Contrary to previous beliefs that the Romans introduced cheese-making to Britain, Palmer clarifies that evidence of cheese production in Britain dates back to around 4000 BCE. However, Roman occupation did play a pivotal role in scaling up cheese production, introducing more advanced tools and standardizing methods, which facilitated the mass production of cheese to supply their legions.

Women's Role in Cheese Making

[09:26] Ned Palmer:
"Cheese-making was predominantly a craft passed down through women, with mothers teaching daughters the skills instinctively."

Palmer underscores the vital role women played in the tradition of cheese-making. In small, peasant households, the knowledge and techniques were often transmitted orally and practically from one generation to the next, maintaining the craft as a familial and community-centric activity.

Monastic Cheese Making

[10:55] Ned Palmer:
"Monasteries developed large-scale, standardized cheese production to meet economic demands, supplying cheeses like Wensleydale."

Monastic communities significantly influenced cheese production by establishing large-scale operations. These institutions required consistent and substantial quantities of cheese to sustain their communities and fulfill economic obligations, such as paying tithes. This led to the adoption of standardized recipes and methods, diverging from the more artisanal practices of peasant women.

Protected Regional Cheese Names

[13:15] Ned Palmer:
"While countries like the Netherlands and France protect their regional cheeses through PDOs, Britain's approach has been less stringent, allowing cheeses like Cheddar to be produced globally."

Addressing the protection of regional cheese names, Palmer notes that unlike France and the Netherlands, Britain has been more lenient, resulting in widespread production of cheeses like Cheddar beyond their geographic origins. Although there is a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) for Cheddar within the EU, its enforcement has been broad, allowing international variations to flourish.

Global Spread of Cheese Making

[17:20] Ned Palmer:
"Cheese-making originated in the Fertile Crescent and spread across Europe through trade and migration, rather than arising independently in different regions."

Palmer traces the diffusion of cheese-making from its birthplace in the Fertile Crescent, spreading through Europe via trade routes and the movement of agricultural practices. He highlights that unlike certain technologies, cheese-making did not independently emerge in disparate parts of the world but was rather disseminated through cultural and economic exchanges.

The Ploughman’s Lunch

[19:10] Ned Palmer:
"The term 'Ploughman’s lunch' likely originated as a promotional term in the 1970s to encourage cheese consumption, though historically, hearty cheeses like Cheddar were staples for workers."

Discussing the iconic Ploughman's lunch, Palmer suggests it was a marketing invention aimed at boosting cheese sales. However, he connects it to historical eating habits where robust cheeses served as essential sustenance for laborers like ploughmen, canal boat drivers, and sailors, embodying both convenience and nutritional value.

Cheese and Wine Pairing

[20:40] Ned Palmer:
"Cheese and wine pairing likely dates back to Roman times, with elites enjoying cheeses like Falernian with premium wines as part of their dining rituals."

The tradition of pairing cheese with wine is posited to have Roman origins, where high-status individuals indulged in fine cheeses alongside esteemed wines. Palmer speculates that this practice evolved over centuries, becoming more systematized in modern times, particularly noticeable in culinary circles from the 1930s onward.

Discovery of Mold in Cheese

[22:44] Ned Palmer:
"Moldy cheeses were likely discovered by accident when cheeses were exposed to specific humidity and temperature conditions, leading to the intentional cultivation of molds in cheeses like Roquefort."

Palmer explores the serendipitous discovery of mold-enhanced cheeses, attributing it to accidental exposure that turned into a deliberate practice. Legendary tales, such as that of Roquefort, illustrate how desirable characteristics like flavor and texture could emerge from unintended mold growth, transforming these incidents into celebrated cheese varieties.

Impact of Historical Events on Cheese Making

[26:29] Ned Palmer:
"Wars have significantly influenced cheese production, from the Romans’ mass-producing Pecorino for their armies to WWII's impact on cheese regulations and technology like cling film for preservation."

Historical upheavals, particularly wars, have played crucial roles in shaping cheese-making practices. Palmer notes how wartime needs accelerated technological advancements in cheese preservation and altered production scales. For instance, World War II led to regulations restricting cheese types and promoted innovations like cling film to prevent moisture loss, thereby preserving cheese quality amid scarcity.

Wensleydale and Wallace & Gromit

[32:01] Ned Palmer:
"The animated duo Wallace and Gromit significantly boosted Wensleydale's popularity by featuring the cheese in their stories, transforming it into a beloved global export."

The cultural phenomenon of Wallace and Gromit played a pivotal role in revitalizing Wensleydale cheese's market presence. By associating the cheese with beloved characters, the creators inadvertently championed Wensleydale, leading to increased demand and recognition worldwide. The town of Hawes honors this legacy with statues celebrating the characters that helped save their local cheese industry.

The Societal Impact of Cheese

[34:43] Ned Palmer:
"Cheese has been integral to societal development from the agricultural revolution to modern economies, influencing religion, trade, and cultural practices."

Concluding the discussion, Palmer emphasizes cheese’s profound influence on societal structures and cultural evolution. From supporting early agricultural communities to playing roles in religious rituals and international trade, cheese has been a staple that not only nourished but also united and defined civilizations. Its multifaceted presence in history underscores its significance beyond mere sustenance, reflecting broader societal values and advancements.

Conclusion

Ned Palmer's insightful exploration into the history of cheese reveals its indispensable role in shaping human societies. From ancient innovations and Roman industrial practices to cultural renaissances influenced by popular media, cheese has been both a practical necessity and a cultural icon. This episode highlights how a seemingly simple food item can embody complex historical narratives and societal transformations.

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